along the point of the yard-arm, and we expected every moment to see them torn to pieces. The Turks stood motionless, without turning it aside; but, fortunately, no accident occurred, except that our flag was torn away, and cast in shreds upon the river; an omen which, to those who believe in omens, would appear by no means favourable, under the critical circumstances of the times.-We arrived at the point opposite Dendera about midday. Asses, and a crowd of Arabs, started up as if by enchantment; and, being provided with a dinner, which consisted of fowls, rice, &c., we set out, and on the way met Mr. S., returning in ecstasy from the ruins. The temple of Dendera is about a mile from the Nile, and we first visited the gate on the left, about five hundred yards from the great temple. It is a massive structure, almost entire, covered with ranges of hieroglyphics and figures on both sides, and in the passage. It consists of a single, lofty door-way, with piers, ornamented at the top with winged globes, and surmounted by an entablature, according to the Egyptian style. Between this and the temple, and as far on the other side of it, are hills of ruins, foundations of mud-houses, and tombs heaped up with the drift of the desert. Passing along the side of these, and having in front a small ruin, consisting of five columns, we came first in sight of the gate leading to the great temple-then of a temple to its right-and, at length, at the extre

mity of a passage, between two mountains of ruins, appeared the great temple itself, with its hieroglyphics, vast columns, with fine capitals, &c. &c. The faces of most of the figures in the temple, as also many of the figures themselves, are destroyed. The fine view of the interior is impeded by the thick forest of columns, all of which are covered with sculptures. There is an inner room, nearly filled with sand, and three other rooms beyond, a staircase, and an upper story of rooms. On the top of the temple is a deserted village, commanding a view of the Nile, the hills, desert, &c. &c. On the outside of the temple are some lions' heads, finely executed; behind is a small structure, and, at some distance, a gateway, like that seen in front. After going to the small temple, we returned to our boat, and set sail at six P. M., without stopping at Ghenney.

On Monday the 11th, the wind failed us, and after pulling some time, we were preparing, about eleven, to go ashore, when, to our great joy, a breeze sprang up, and we were enabled to proceed. The mountains below which Thebes is situated, were now pointed out in the distance. They gradually rose before us, and we soon approached the antient capital of Egypt. Before sunset we could distinguish to the left the vast mass of the ruins of Carnac. In half an hour we arrived at Gournah. Here we found Mr. Desparre, who had arrived in the forenoon, and, in ten minutes,

Mr. S., whom we had passed two miles below, also came up. We were immediately surrounded by Arabs, offering little pieces of antiquities, such as small papyri, coins, figures, and trinkets. After the first bustle of arrival had subsided, we met, and recounted our adventures to each other. All were delighted with the voyage, which to all had been most fortunate. None, however, spoke of their country without a wish to return. The ruins of Egypt incomparably surpassed those of Italy; travelling, instead of being a toil, was a delight; yet, when arrived at Thebes, and on the point of next day beholding its stupendous remains, the mind of each seemed to dwell less on this pleasure, granted to one in a million, than on the hope of soon sharing with millions the pleasure of being at home.

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CHAPTER X.

Temple of Luxor -The Colossi-Tombs-Cure for the Bite of a Serpent-Assuan-The Use of Iron known to the Antient Egyptians-The Nilometer-Festival of Rhamadan-Philae-Temple -Boys crossing the River-Ruins and Views of Philae-Cataracts of the Nile.

ON Tuesday we went out at sunrise, and saw the columns of the temple of Luxor, on the river side, about two miles before us. The stupendous temple of Carnac still continued to attract the eye

to the left, and we felt that we were at Thebes, with the remnants of the most antient glory known to the world lying before us. On ascending the bank we discovered, about half a mile to the left, two Colossi, with the Memnonium to their right, and the temple of Medinet Abou above, a little further on. A lofty mountain shuts in the view, and exhibits along its sides numberless excavated tombs. In some parts, the sands have reached to a great height up the precipices at its base. Between this mountain on the west, and the line of the desert on the opposite side of the river, extends a plain of green fields, the cultivators of which, except those who live among the columns of the temple of Luxor, either from choice or necessity, inhabit tombs. This is the site of Thebes, and these are the modern citizens.

In going, the Colossi were always in view. About four hundred yards from the bank is a temple, with ten pillars in front, various rooms, and ruins of a gateway. It is surrounded by ruins of brick houses. The Memnonium of itself forms a great ruin. The immense statue is twenty-three feet across the shoulder, is broken at the breast, and an attempt has been made to saw the head asunder. Near it are some fine ruins, and at a distance of four hundred yards are the Colossi. The base is thirty-four feet by nineteen; generally, six feet are above ground, and in one part nine. The height of the Colossi, exclusive of the base, is forty