than make him an offer, which we did, desiring our dragoman to inquire, what kind he would have, brandy, gin, or rum? "Oh," replied he, quickly, "I like them all three." Whereupon, of course, we gave him a bottle of each, and a hearty laugh was raised at our expense. The spirits were shortly produced, and the corks drawn, and Achmet, having first insisted on our tasting, proceeded to help himself. Scarcely had he satisfied his curiosity, when, pleased with the success of his first trial, he made a second attempt. "As you are Englishmen,” ," said he, "of course you are fond of shooting;" but this time his address was parried, our reply being that we were fond of shooting, but unfortunately had left Alexandria without providing ourselves with gunpowder. This turned the laugh against the governor, in which he goodhumouredly joined, and calling for another glass of raki, pledged, and drank it, remarking, that if Mahomed should ask him why he drank, he would throw the whole blame upon us. Pleased with the acquisition of his three bottles, he invited us to remain to supper, which was served up about midnight. A large circular tin tray was brought in, round which we seated ourselves, and, having washed our hands, commenced the meal in the Turkish fashion. A spoon, but no knife or fork, was given to each guest, who helped himself to the soup, all eating out of the same tureen. This was followed by above twenty different dishes,

among which was a saddle of mutton, which we were invited to claw to pieces with the rest of the party-our host shewing his attention by tearing off every now and then a large piece of mutton in his fingers, and placing it before us. As soon as supper was over, ablutions were again performed, pipes, coffee, and spirits introduced, and we quitted the house of the governor about one in the morning, highly pleased with the novelty of our entertainment.

Fouah was a town of some consideration in the tenth century, but it gradually lost its commerce, which was removed to Rosetta. This latter place, in its turn, yielded to Alexandria; and the canal, which nearly connects Alexandria with Fouah, is likely to restore it to its original importance. In the morning, with a fair breeze, we continued our voyage to Cairo.

Nothing can be more unpicturesque than the banks of the Nile. The landscape, in fact, so far as the picturesque is concerned, might be taken by a parallel ruler. A horizontal line for the water, a horizontal line for the bank, and the line of the horizon itself—a few angular lines for the palmtrees, will give an idea of the monotonous appearance of these banks. Were it not for the mud-built villages, from which the white-washed minarets of the mosque are seen, through a palm grove, which invariably overshadows these dwellings, and in some degree relieves the scene, the

country, setting aside its antiquities, would present a continued scene of dulness and monotony. The traveller's attention, however, is agreeably diverted by the novelty of the customs and appearance of the inhabitants. If an agriculturist, he is pleased with the fertile soil, and its varied productions; (although he may regret the low ebb to which the agricultural knowledge of the country is reduced so true is it, that in all countries where the land is fruitful, the husbandman is indolent :) the ornithologist will find birds, known to him before only by books: the botanist a wide field for his researches, and the sportsman as much amusement as he can desire: the economist could not live in a country where provisions are cheaper: and those, who are fond of numerous retinues and splendid attire, may here find them at little cost.

A succession of small villages is seen at every fresh winding in the river. The Arab women, in their blue robes, fetching water from the Nile in urns, which they carried away upon their heads-and, as they wound up the bank, the graceful folding of their drapery, the uplifted arm supporting the vase, which strongly resembled that of the antique, -formed a most picturesque spectacle. The halfstarved fellah, seated on his donkey, with his long nabout, or stick, and if very fortunate, with his pipe in his mouth, rode lazily along the course of the river. The creaking of the sakkeiahs, used for the irrigation of the land, were the only sounds

which we heard. We made but slow We made but slow progress, as the winds were contrary, and the crew threatened to abandon us, a dispute having arisen between them and their reis, or captain, in consequence of their unwillingness to tow the boat by a rope.

On the seventh day after our departure from Alexandria, after many attempts to gain a sight of the pyramids, on our arrival at the top of the Delta, these celebrated monuments of antiquity came in view. The sun was just setting behind the Lybian sands, and their western sides were barely distinguishable through the rising mists. Still, we had seen the pyramids-and we re-entered the cabin with that excitement of spirits always consequent on the obtainment of a long wished-for object. The wind favoured us during the night, and at ten on the following morning we arrived at Boulak. The edge of the river was lined with boats, taking in corn; camels were carrying off cotton; the banks were crowded with Nubians and Arabs, who were selling dates and sugar-canes.

One of the first objects which strike the stranger, on arriving at Boulak, is the palace of Ishmael Pacha--an odd composition of Greek, Italian, and Arabic architecture. Its large windows give it an open and airy appearance. The plaster, paint, and gilding, make the exterior a gaudy contrast to the surrounding filth and misery.

Our luggage was placed on the backs of camels, and we ourselves mounted the asses brought for

us by the Arabs and trotted off, followed by Arab boys, beating the donkies, and clearing the way before. Through the narrow lanes of Boulak, we at length came to the open fields, which divide this suburb from the city of Cairo. We entered Cairo by the part called the Esbe Keiah, and crossing it, reached the entry to the Frank quarter, and, passing a gateway, we went down a narrow lane, at the end of which stands the house of the English consulate.

Cairo, seen at a distance, is beautiful; but whatever may have been thought in its favour vanishes on entering it. In the East, show is everything— from the fretted ornamental minaret, down to the silk covered and tasselled pipes, which the syce, or groom, carries before his master.

The scenes which the traveller here meets, are powerfully opposed to the expectations of the admirer of eastern poetry. Half the inhabitants of the town are so filthy and ragged, that in England they would be sent to the tread-mill for indecent exposure. Their dirt is absolutely indescribable. Few of the streets are wider than 'Change-alley, and they are unpaved and winding. Carriages are never seen. With the thermometer at one hundred and ten, among crowds of Caireens squeezing and stewing in the avenues, where horses, camels, dromedaries, and donkies, and women muffled, and mounted on mules, blocked the place with clouds of small and almost imperceptible dust, which got