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gown and petticoat with two silver orrices; and a purple and gold Atlas gown, a scarlet and gold Atlas petticoat, edged with silver; a wrought under petticoat, edged with gold; a black velvet petticoat; allegah petticoat, striped with green, gold, and white; a blue and silver silk gown and petticoat, a blue and gold atlas gown and petticoat, and clogs, laced with silver. A Mrs. Beale, at the same period, advertizes her loss of a green silk knit waistcoat, with gold and silver flowers all over it, and about fourteen yards of gold and silver thick lace on it; with a petticoat of rich strong flowered satin, red and white, all in great flowers oa leaves, and scarlet flowers with black specks brocaded in, raised high, like velvet or shag.

The ladies wore hooped petticoats, scarlet cloaks, and masks, when walk, ing. The hoops were fair game for the wits, and they spared them not:"An elderly lady, whose bulky squat figure,

By hoop,and white damask, was render'd
much bigger,
Without hood, and bare neck'd, to the
Park did repair,

To shew her new cloaths, and to take
the fresh air;
Her shape, her attire, rais'd a shout and
loud laughter;

Away waddles madam, the mob hurries after.

Quoth a wag, thus observing the noisy crowd follow,

As she came with a hoop, she's gone off

with a hollow!"

An advertisement, in 1703, gives a whole-length portrait of a youth in middle life. Such a figure would attract much wonder in the streets of London at present." He is of a fair complexion, light brown lank hair, having on a dark brown frieze coat, double breasted on each side, with black buttons and button-holes; a light bregget waistcoat, RED SHAG

BREECHES, STRIPED WITH BLACK STRURIPES, AND BLACK STOCKINGS."

The ridiculous long wigs of 1710 were very expensive. One was advertised as stolen that year, said to be

worth five guineas. This however, was a trifle; for Drumver's "fair wig," in the TATLER," cost" forty guineas." But, lest it should be supposed that the gentlemen only were expensive in decorating the head, take the prices from the Lace Chamber on Ludgate-hill:-"One Brussel's Head, at 401.; one Ground Brussel's Head, at 301; one looped Brussel's Head, at 301." Wigs maintained their ground, though not so enormously large, in 1720; at which period white hair for them was all the fashion, and bore a monstrous price. They were still a more important article of dress in 1734; but the favourite colour had then changed-those of "right GRAY human hair" were four guineas each; light grizzle ties three guineas; right grey human hair "cue perukes," from two guineas to fifteen shillings each, which was the price of dark ones; and right grey bob perukes, from two guineas and a half to fifteen shilings, the price only of dark bobs; those mixed with horse hair were much lower. It will be observed, from the gradations in price, that right grey hair was most in vogue, and dark hair of no estimation.

A lady, corresponding with her of the box-lobby loungers of 1738; friend, whimsically describes the dress from which it will be seen, whatever we may think of them, that our ancestors were by no means behind hand with us in folly.- "Some of them," she says, "wore those loose kind of great coats which the vulgar called

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wrap-rascals;' with gold-laced hats slouched, in humble imitation of coachmen; others aspired at being g rooms, and had dirty boots and spurs, with black caps on and long whips; and a third sort. wore light scanty frocks, little shabby hats, put on one side, and clubs in their hands."

In 1760, the ladies are stated to have worn the following species of caps-The French night cap; the Ranelagh mob; the Mary Queen of Scots cap, and the fly cap. The latter we may suppose was the most esteemed, as the late Queen Charlotte, when she landed in England in 1761,

was, in compliance with English costume, habited in " a gold brocade, with a white ground; had a stomacher ornamented with diamonds, and wore a FLY-CAP, with richly laced lappets." The "LONDON CHRONICLE" for 1762, enumerates the following articles of male attire, on which it indulges in several witty remarks. Of hats, there were, the Kevenhuller; the sailor's, decribed as uniformly tacked down to the Crown, and laughably said to look as if they carried a triangular apple pasty upon their heads; the Quaker's hat, which is said to spread over their heads like a pent-house, darkened the outward man, to signify they have the inward light. Some are described as wearing their hats (with the corner that should come over their foreheads in a direct liue) pointed in the air. These were called "Gawkies." Others are said to not above half cover their heads, but between beaver and eye-brows, to expose a piece of blank forehead, that looks like a sandy road in a surveyor's plan. Of wigs then in use, are satirized, among others, "the 'prentice minor bob, or hair cap; the citizen's sundry buckle, or bob major; the apothecary's bush; the physical and chirurgical tye; the scratch, or the block's skull covering, and the John's jemmy, or white and all white, in litile curls like a fine fleece on a lamb's back. This last is the species of wig now frequently worn by a gentleman's coachmen."

Taking the fashions generally within the last forty or fifty years, we find the ladies' heads covered with a cushion, as it was termed, generally formed of horse hair, and something like a porter's knot set upon the ends; over this the hair was combed straight, the sides curled, and the back turned up, and then powdered; diminutive caps of gauze, adorned with ribbands, and miniature hats, generally of black silk trimmed, were stuck on the tower of hair with long pins. The waist was covered by a long-bodied gown,drawn exceedingly close over stays laced still closer; the hips sometimes supported a bell hoop; the shoulders alternately

small cloaks and cardinals; the former of muslin and silk, and the latter almost always of black silk, richly laced.

This description of dress altered by degrees to the present fashion. The head insensibly lowered; the horsehair first gave place to large natural curls, spread over the face and ears; the cap enlarged to an enormous size, and the bonnet swelled in proportion. 'Silks became unfashionable, and printed calicues, and the finest white' muslins, were substituted. Hoops were entirely discontinued, except at Court. These were all improvements; but it is only of late years that the ladies, much to their honour, have thrown aside most of the hateful attempts to supply nature's deficiencies, and now appear in that native graceand proportion which distinguishes an English woman. --The hair cleansed from all extraneous matter, shines in beautiful lustre carelessly turned round the head, in the manner adopted by the most eminent Grecian sculptors; and the form app ars through snowwhite draperies in that fascinating manner, which excludes the least thought of impropriety. Their hats and bonnets of straw, chip and beaver, if somewhat less, would be extremely becoming; and their velvet pelisses, shawls, and silk spencers, are contrived to improve, rather than injure

the form.

The male dress, like the female, changed almost insensibly from formality to ease. This was effected merely by altering the cut of the clothes; the materials are the same as they were a hundred years ago; the colours, however, are more gravel Instead of "Claret-coloured clothes, Pompadours, light blue, with silver button-holes," &c.; deep blue, dark browns, mixtures, and blacks, are now worn by the sedate and the gay, the young and the old. In point of shape, there is, and always will be, a continual variation. The bat, has as many different forms and denominations as it had in the times we have been speaking of, though not of the same kind. The modern neck cloth should not be omitted, especially as it

has been more ridiculed than other parts of the male dress. It is enough to say, though some have considerably reformed it in this particular, that it has been compared to a towel tied under the chin.*

Too much praise cannot be given to the abolition of the unnatural custom of wearing hair-powder. The appearance of this, in a young person at least, though only discontinued a few years, is becoming now quite Gothic.

FAREWELL, FOR EVER!

If I had thought theu could'st have died,
I should have wept for thee;
But I forgot, when by thy side,

That thou could'st mortal be.
It never through my mind had past
Thy life would e'er be o'er,-
That I on thee should look my last,
And thou would'st smile no more.

And still upon thy face I look,

And think 'twill smile again;
And still the thought I cannot brook
That I must gaze in vain.
But when I speak, thou dost not say
What thou ne'er left'st unsaid;
And then I feel, as well I may,

Sweet Lucy! thou art dead.

If thou could'st stay, e'en as thou art, All cold and all serene,

I Still might press thy silent heart,

And where thy smiles have been! For, while thy chill bleak corse I have, Thou seemest still my own;

But there lay thee in the grave,

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You say that love's a crime.-Content:
Yet, thisallow you must,
More joy's in heav'n if one repent,
Than over ninety just.

Come then, dear girl, for pity's sake,
Repent, and be forgiven;
Bless me, and by repentance make
A holiday in heaven.

G. RIPON.

L'AMOUR TIMIDE.

If in that breast, so good and pure,
Compassion ever loved to dwell,
Pity the sorrows I endure.-

The cause-I must not, dare not tell

The grief that on my quiet preys,
That rends my heart, that checks my
tongue,

I fear will last me all my days,
But feel it will not last me long.

LE CLAIR.

Transatlantic Varitiees.

Or Selec ons from

AMERICAN JOURNALS BY CLIO. No. 18.

RATTLE SNAKE.--A Frenchman M. Neale, being in North Carolina, endeavoured to procure some rattlesnakes, with a view of forming a collection. Several observations induced him to believe that this animal was capable of being tamed. The means which he employed to effect this object are unknown. He ascribes his success entirely to the power of music, and pretends that a tender melody is sufficient to tranquillize the greatest irritation on the part of the animal. M. Neale is now at Richmond (Virginia). He has two rattle-snakes. The male is four feet eight inches long, and has eight rattles in his tail, which shows that he is nine years old. The female is smaller and has but five. Their docility is so great that having talked to them a little, and stroked them with his hand, he takes them as if they were rope's-ends, and puts them up his breast until they wind round his neck and kiss him. Far from injuring their master, these dreadful reptiles seem to emulate one another in evincing their attachment to him. Besides the education

of these snakes, M. Neale reposes his security in another cause; for he has a remedy for their bite of which he makes no secret. The first thing, he says, is to wash one's mouth with warm oil, then to suck the wound, afterwards to drink plentifully of a decoction of snake root, which operates as an emetic. M. Neale opens the mouths of his snakes, and shows their fangs. They arein the upper jaw, two on each side; and if extracted are renewed. They are pointed, bent behind, and lie flat towards the throat when the animal does not want to make use of them. The venom exudes from a little bladder which is at the root of the tooth. These animals change their skin, in summer, once every two months. Every year except the first, they acquire a new horn rattle, whence they derive their name. They seldom shake them, and only when they are irritated, or rather when they want to fix the attention of their prey; that is to say, of the most lively animals, such as birds and squirrels. M. Neale maintains the truth of the charming-power which these snakes have been said to possess, having observed an instance it in his garden, on the part of his own snakes; the victim, conquered by his fears, falling from branch to branch, and rock to rock, until his enemy darted upon him. But he denies that there is any thing offensive in the breath of these animals, having frequently received their close caresses; on the contrary, he is convinced that it is soft and agreeable!

("Richmond Enquirer," April, 1824.)

DISPATCH.--A gentleman in this city dispatched an order to England on the 16th of January last, for a quantity of Dry Goods, and yesterday they arrived in the packet ship Columbia; making but 53 days since the order

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put in possession of an original and celebrated likeness of Columbus.

Its more particular history has been forwarded to Washington, where the picture is destined to add to those already in the Capitol. By a certificate from the President of the National Museum of Seville, verified at the office of the Political Chief of that city, and which is attached to the canvass, we observe that it is identified in all its parts as an original, and by the same master who produced the full length likeness of Columbus which is still in Seville.-The certificate further states, that this is the same that was in the Cartuja.

It is presented to the nation by George G. Barrell, Esq. United States Consul at Malaga, who secured the possession of it at Seville, by the aid of the Prior of the Cartuja, when that Institution suffered suppression.

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The painting itself manifests the hand of a master, and is well preserved; but its chief value consists in its being an original and true likeness of Columbus; as such to Americans it must be deemed a valuable acquisition and to the votaries of painting a triumph of their art, which possesses thus a faculty to rob from the grave that portion of its terrors which it derives from oblivion. ("New-York Daily Advertiser," 27 August, 1823.)

GRAND JUNCTION.-A few months more, and the Grand Western Canal will cause our inland seas and the ocean to mingle their great waters. Ten thousand men, or about that number are now employed in the unrivalled enterprize-the offspring of the bold and masculine policy of our present Chief Magistrate. We have just been informed that a canal is to be cut from Providence, Rhode Island, to Worcester in the State of Massachusetts, the distance being about forty miles. We deem this canal of great importance to the city of New York. It will increase her commerce, and hasten her on, with other combining circumstances, to that

destiny, when she will stand the London of the New World, and among the most powerful commercial emporiums that has ever arisen and flourished in any period of society.

(New York Paper.)

Enteresting Varieties. RUFFS.-The ruff worn in the reign of Elizabeth attained the most extravagant pitch of absurdity. It reached behind to the very top of the head, and being of fine texture, it was strongly starched to make it stand upright; and in addition to this, was supported by an underpropper called a supertasse. Stubbs says, One arch or pillar wherewith the Devil's kingdom of great ruffs is underpropped is a certain kind of liquid matter they call starch, wherein the Devil has learned them to wash and die their ruffs, which being dry, will stand stiff and inflexible about their necks."

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The same writer

gives the following true and awful relation of the punishment of an Amsterdam belle, who had been led into evil by this prevailing fashion: "She could not get her ruff plaited according to her taste, though she employed two celebrated laundresses. Upon which "She fell to swear and tear, to curse and ban, casting the ruffes under feete, and wishing that the Devil might take her when she did wear any neck-arches again." The Devil, being an arch one, assumed the form of a handsome young man, and "tooke in hand the setting of her ruffes, which he performed to her great contentation and liking; insomuch as she, looking at herself in a glasse (as the Devil bede her) became greatly enamoured of him. This done, the young man kissed her; in the doing whereof he writhed her neck in sunder, so she died miserably, her body being straight waies changed into blue and black colours, most ugglesome to behold, and her face (which before was so amorous) became most deformed and fearfull to look upon. This being known in he city, great preparation was made * Compare p. 85 of this volume

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for her buriall, and a rich coffin was provided, and her fearfull body was laid therein and covered very sumptu ously. Foure men immediately essayed to lift up the corpse, but could not move it: then six attempted the like, but could not once stirre it from the place where it stood. caused the coffin to be opened to see Whereat the standers bye marvelling, the cause thereof-where they found the body to be taken away,and a black catte, very lean and deformed, sitting in the coffin, setting of great ruffes and frizzling of hair, to the great fear and wonder of all the beholders!'

GAS.-A writer in a daily paper strongly dissuades householders from suffering gas-lights within any part of their houses. He says the quality of the air is peculiarly injurious to health, as the pulmonary organs are effected by all miasmata; and he refers to the Richeraude Phisiology for an explanation of its injurious properties. Of his own experience, he adds,-"I have of late avoided all rooms lighted with gas of any kind, and am satisfied I have prevented the progress of a cough, which, though my frame is very strong and healthy, came on very gradually, and continued, even during the warm weather of the summer of 1822, to increase. I discontinued my attendance on all gaslighted rooms in December last, and notwithstanding the severity of the winter, have never coughed since. This fact is known to several medical persons of eminence."

TO CORRESPONDENTS.

SARAH will find that we have not been
regardless of Wolfe's poetry.-T. P. C.
shall be remembered. The cut of the
Parthenon will appear in the present
volume, as will the one suggested by
Truth.---The Lines by O. O. (Wem,
Salop) are put by for future use.

RECEIVED: Anybody-Kit-Larry
A. B.-and X.

REJECTED:-Sol and J. M. C.

LONDON--Printed and Published by T. Wallis Camden Town; and also Published by C. Harris, Bon Street, Covent Garden, by whom Communications for the Editor are received; Dunbar, Wych Street ury Lane; an dArcher, Berwick Street, Suho

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