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ANECDOTES OF DRESS.
1687; shoes of the then fashion, in
1633; breeches instead of trunk hose, (Resumed from p. 262,)
in 1634; and perukes were first worn
after the Restoration. T'he love of novelty, it has been About the year 1700, the ladies truly observed, is the parent of fa- wore Holland petticoats einbroidered shion. As the fancy sickens, says a in figures with different coloured writer on
this subject, with one silks and gold, with broad orrices at image, it longs for another. This is the bottom. Muffs were at this period the cause of the continual revolutions in use, but very different in shape and of habit and behaviour, and why wė materals from those of the present prove so industrious in pursuing the day; being in general very small, change; this makes fashion universal- and frequently made of leopard's skin. ly followed, and is the true reason Diamond stomachers'adorned the lawhy the awkwardest people are as dies' bosoms, which were composed fond of this folly as the genteelest. of that valuable stone set in silver, in
The passion for novelty, particu- a variety of figures, upon black silk, Jarly in the article of dress, seems for and which must be admitted to have ages to bave been a predominant fea- been a brilliant, if not elegant ornature in the English character, and ment. Satin gowns were lined with with the exception of our neighbours, Persian silk; and handkerchiefs, and the French, may be said to be almost Spanish leather shoes, lined with gold, peculiar to it. Most of our early were common with persons of respecwriters makes some allusions to it in tabilito. To these different articles their works, and Dr. Andrew Borde, the ladies added bare necks, with gold in a satirical tract published by him and other crosses suspended from in the reign of Henry VIII., to show them. Those odd little circular the then excess of the folly, has pre- pieces of black silk called patches, prefixed, in a rude wood-cut, the figure vailed also at this period to a most of a naked Englishman with a piece extravagant degree. These were of cloth and pair of sheers, debating stuck on different parts of the female on the fashion he shall have his clothes face, and varied in size. Frequent inade in.-Purposing in the few slight allusions are made to these fancied notices which follow, to confine our “beauty spots," by early comic wri. observations merely to the costume of ters. the last century, we shall pass over In 1609, a lady's dress is thus dethe fashions of those which preceded scribed in an advertisement to recover it, with only quoting some general re- one that was lost : “ A black silk inarks.
petticoat, with a red and winte calico "The party-coloured coat." says border; cherry coloured stays, triinthe anihor of a Treatise on Dress, med with blue and silver; a red and published in 1761. “was first worri dove-coloured damask gown, flowered in England in the time of Henrv 1. with large trees; a yellow satin Chaplets, or wreaths of artificial apron, triumed with white Persian ; flowers, in the time of Edward III.; muslin head cloths, with crows-foot hoods and short coats without sleeves, edging ; double ruffles, with fine called tabarts, in the time of Henry edging ; a black silk furbelowed scarf, IV.; hats in the time of Henry VII.; and spotted lood," In 1711, a lady's ruffs in the reign of Edward VI.; and riding dress is advertised for sale in : wronght 'caps and bonnets in the time the is Spectator," of blue camblet, of Queen Elizabeth. Judge Finch well laced with silver; being a coat, introduced the band in the reign of waistcoat, petticoat, hat, and feaJames . ; French hoods, bibs and thers. And another advertisement, gorgets were discontinued by the in 1712, inentions an Isabella coloured Queen of Charles I. ; the commode, Kincub gown, flowered with green or tower, was introduced in the year and gold; and a dark coloured clothy
gown and petticoat with two silver worth five guineas. This however, orrices; and a purple and gold Atlas was a trifle; for Drumver's gown, a scarlet and gold Atlas petti- wig,” in the “Tatler,"cost" forty coat, edged with silver ; a wrought guineas." But, lest it should be supunder petticoat, edged with gold; a posed that the gentlemen only were black velvet petticoat; allegah petti- expensive in decorating the head, take coat, striped with green, gold, and the prices from the Lace Chamber on white; a blue and silver silk gown Ludgate-hill:-“One Brussels Head, and petticoat, a blue and gold atlas at 401.; one Ground Brussel's Head, gown and petticoat, and clogs, laced at 301; one looped Brussel's Head, with silver. A Mrs. Beale, at the
Wigs maintained their same period, advertizes her loss of a ground, though not so enormously green silk knit waistcoat, with gold large, in 1720; at which period white and silver flowers all over it, and hair for thein was all the fashion, and about fourteen yards of gold and sil- bore a monstrous price. They were ver thick lace on it; with a petticoat still a more important article of dress of rich strong flowered satin, red and in 1734; but the favourite colour had white, all in great flowers oa leaves, then changed—those of “ right GRAY and scarlet flowers with black specks human hair" were four guineas each ; brocaded in, raised high, like velvet light grizzle ties three guineas ; right or shag
grey human hair
cue perukes,' from The ladies wore hooped petticoats, two guineas to fifteen shillings each, scarlet cloaks, and masks, when walk, which was the price of dark ones; and ing. The hoops were fair game for right grey bob. perukes, from two the wits, and they spared them not:- guineas and a half to fifteen shilings, “ An elderly lady, whose bulky -squat mixed with horse hair were much
the price only of dark bobs ; those figure, By hoop,and white damask, was render'd lower. It will be observed, from the much bigger,
gradations in price, that right grey Without hood, and bare neckd, to the hair was most in vogue, and dark hair Park did repair,
of no estimation. To shew her new cloaths, and to take A lady, corresponding with her
the fresh air; Her shape, her attire, rais'd a shout and of the box-lobby loungers of 1733;
friend, whimsically describes the dress loud laughter; Away waddles madam, the mob hurries
from which it will be seen, whatever after.
we may think of them, that our anQuoth a wag, thus observing the noisy cestors were by no means beliind hand crowd follow,
with us in fully.-" Some of them," As she came with a hoop, she's gone off she says, 6 wore those loose kind of with a hollow!"
great coats which the vulgar called An advertisement, in 1703, gives a wrap-rascals;' with gold-laced bats whole-length portrait of a youth in slouched, in humble imitation of coachmiddle life. Such a figure would at- men ; others aspired at being g rooms, tract much wonder in the streets of and had dirty boots and spurs, with London at present."He is of a fair. black caps ou and long whips ; and a complexion, light brown lank hair, third sort, wore light scanty frocks, having on a dark brown frieze coat, little shabby hats, put on one side, double breasted on each side, with and clubs in their hands.' black buttons and button-holes ; a In 1760, the ladies are stated to light bregget waistcoat, RED SHAQ have worn the following species of BREECHES, STRIPED WITH BLACK caps :—The French night cap; the STRURIPB
STOCK. Ranelagh mob; the Mary Queen of INGS.''
Scots cap, and the fly cap. The latThe ridiculous long wigs of 1710 ter we may suppose was the most were very expensive. One was ad- esteemed, as the late Queen Charlotte, vertised as stolen that year, said to be when she lauded in England in 1761,
was, in compliance with English cos- small cloaks and cardinals ; the former tume, habited in “a gold brocade, of muslin and silk, and the latter alwith a white ground; had a stomacher most always of black silk, richly laced. ornamented with diamonds, and wore This description of dress altered by a FLY-CAP, with richly laced lappets." degrees to the present fashion. The
The “ London CHRONICLE" for head inseusibly lowered; the horse1762, enumerates the following arti- hair first gave place to large natural cles of male attire,on which it indulges curls, spread over the face and ears; in several witty remarks. Of hats, there the cap enlarged to an enormous size, were, the Kevenhuller; the sailor's, and the bonnet swelled in proportion.' decribed as uniformly tacked down 'Silks became infrashionable, and to the Crown, and laughably said to printed calicves, and the finest white look as if they carried a triangular muslins, were substituted. Hoops apple pasty upon their heads; the were entirely discontinued, except at Quaker's hat, which is said to spread Court. These were all improvements; over their heads like a pent-house, but it is only of late years that the darkened the outward man, to signify ladies, much to their honour, hare they have the inward light. Some thrown aside most of the hateful atare described as wearing their hats. tempts to supply nature's deficiencies, (with the corner that should come and now appear in that wative grace over their foreheads in a direct live) and proportion which distinguishes pointed in the air. These were called an English woman.--The hair cleansed is Gawkies." (thers are said to not from all extraneous matter, shines in above half cover their leads, but be- beautiful lustre carelessly turned tween beaver and eye-brows, to ex
round the head, in the manner adopted pose a piece of blank forehead, that by the most eminent Grecian sculptors; looks like a sandy road in a surveyor's, and the form app .ars through snowplan. Of wigs then in use, are sil
white draperies in that fascinating tirized, among others, “ the 'prentice manner, which excludes the least minor bob, or hair cap; the citizen's' thought of impropriety. Their hats sundry buckle, or bob major; the
and bonnets of straw, chip and beaver, apothecary's bush ; the physical and if somewhat less, would be extremely chirurgical tye; the scratch, or the becoming ; and their relvet pelisses, block’s skull covering, and the John's shawls, and silk spencers, are conjemmy, or white and all white, in lit- trived to improve, rather than injure ile curls like a fine fleece on
a lamb's the form. back. This last is the species of wig The male dress, like the female, now frequently worn by a gentleman's changed almost insensibly from forcoachmen."
znality to ease.
This was effected Taking the fashions generally with. merely by altering the cut of the in the last forty or fifty years, we find clothes ; the materials are the same the ladies' heads covered with a cus- as they were a hundred years ago ; hion, as it was termed, generally form. the colours, however, are more grave. ed of horse hair, and something like a Instead of " Claret-coloured clothes, porter's kpot set upon the ends; over Pompadours, light blue, with silver this the hair was combed straight, the button-holes,' &c.; deep blue, dark sides curled, and the back turned up, browns, mixtures, and blacks, are and then powdered ; diminutive caps now worn by the sedate and the gay, of gauze, adorned with ribbands, and the young and the old. In point of ininiature hats, generally of black silk shape, there is, and always will be, a trimmed, were stuck on the tower of continual variation. The bat has as hair with long pins. The waist was, many different forms and denominacovered by a long. bodied gown, drawn tions as it had in the times we have exceedingly close over stays laced still been speaking of, though noi of the closer; the hips sometimes supported saine kind. The in-dern neckcloth a bell hoop; the shoulders alternately should not be omitted, especially as it
Ornelas ons from
has been more ridiculed than other You say that love's a crime. Content: parts of the male dress. It is enough
Yet, thisallow you must, to say, though some bave considerably More joy's in heav'n if one repent, reformed it in this particular, that it
Than over ninety just. has been compared to a towel tied un- Come then, dear girl, for pity's sake, der the chin.
Repent, and be forgiven ; Too much praise cannot be given Bless me, and by repentance make to the abolition of the unnatural cuis- A holiday in heaven. tom of wearing hair-powder. The appearance of this, in a young person at least, though only discontinued a
L' AMOUR TIMIDE. few years, is becoming now quite Go
If in that breast, so good and pure, thic.
Compassion ever loved to dwell,
Pily the sorrows I eodure:FAREWELL, FOR EVER! The cause I must not, dare not tell. If I had thought thou could'st have died, The grief that on my quiet preys, I should have wept for thee ;
That rends my heart, that checks my But I forgot, when by thy side,
tongue, That thou could'st mortal be.
I fear will last me all my days,
Transatlantic Waritiees. And still upon thy face I look, And think 'will smile again ;
AMERICAN JOURNALS BY CLIO. And still the thought I cannot brook
No. 18. That I must gaze in vain. But when I speak, thou dost not say Rattle Snake.- A Frenchman
What thou ne'er left'st unsaid ; M. Neale, being in North Carolina, And then I feel, as well I may,
endeavoured to procure some rattleSweet Lucy !- thou art dead.
snakes, with a view of forming a colIf thou could'st stay, e'en as thou art,
lection. Several observations induced All cold and all serene,
him to believe that this animal was I Still might press thy silent heart, capable of being tamed. The means
And where thy smiles have been! which he employed to effect this obFor, while thy chill bleak corse I have, ject are unknown. He ascribes his
Thou seemest still my own;
success entirely to the power of music,
and pretends that a tender melody is And I am now alone.
sufficient to tranquillize the greatest I do not think, where'er thou art, irritation on the part of the aniThou hast forgotten me ;
mal. M. Neale is now at Richmond And I perbaps may soothe this heart,
(Virginia). He has two rattle-spakes. By thinking still of thee.
The male is four feet eight inches Yet there was round thee such a dawn Of light ne'er seen before,
long, and has eight rattles in his tail, As Fancy never could have drawn,
which shows that he is nine years And never can restore.
old. The female is smaller and has WOLPR.
but five. Their docility is so great that having talked to them a little,
and stroked them with his hand, he AN ARGUMENT,
takes them as if they were rope's-ends, ADDRESSED TO SOPHY.
and puts thein
his breast until they Whenever, Sophy. I begin
wind round his neck and kiss To try your heart to move,
him. Far from injuring their master, You tell me of the crying sin
these dreadful reptiles seem to emulate of unchaste, lawless love.
one another in evincing their attach• Compare pp.85, and 106, of this vol. ment to him. Besides the education
of these spakes, M. Neale
his put in possession of an original and security in another cause ; for he has celebrated likeness of Columbus. a remedy for their bite of which he Its more particular history has been inakes no secret. The first thing, he forwarded to Washington, where the says, is to wash one's mouth with picture is destined to add to those warm oil, then to suck the wound, already in the Capitol. By a certiafterwards to drink plentifully of a ficate from the President of the Nadecoction of spake root, which ope- tional Museum of Seville, verified at rates as an emetic. M. Neale opens the the office of the Political Chief of that mouths of his snakes, and shows their city, and which is attached to the fangs. They arein the upper jaw, canvass, we observe that it is identified two on each side'; and if extracted in all its parts as an original, and by are renewed. They are pointed, bent the same master who produced the behind, and lie flat towards the throat full length likeness of Columbus which when the animal does not want to make is still in Seville.-The certificate use of them. The venom exudes from further states, that this is the same a little bladder which is at the root of that was in the Cartuja. the tooth. These animals change It is presented to the nation by their skin, in summer, once every two George G. Barrell
, Esq. United States months. \ Every year except the first, Consul at Malaga,' who secured they acquire a new horn rattle, whence the possession of it at Seville, by the they derive their name. They seldom aid of the Prior of the Cartuja, when shake them, and only when they are that Institution suffered supirritated, rather when they pression. want to fix the attention of their The painting itself manifests the prey ; that is to say, of the most hand of a master, and is well prelively animals, such as birds and squir- ' served ; but its chief value consists in rels. M. Neale maintains the truth its being an original and true likeof the charming-power which these ness of Columbus ; as such to Amerispakes have been said to possess, hav- cans it must be deemed a valuable ing observed an instance it in his acquisition—and to the votaries of garden, on the part of his own snakes ; painting a triumph of their art, which the victim, conquered by his fears, possesses thus a faculty to rob from falling from branch to branch, and the grave that portion of its terrors rock to rock, until his enemy darted which it derives from oblivion. upon him. But he denies that there (“ New-York Daily Advertiser," 27 is any thing offensive in the breath of
August, 1823.) these animals, having frequently received their close caresses ; on the GRAND Junction. A few months contrary, he is convinced that it is soft more, and the Grand Western Canal and agreeable !
will cause our inland seas and the (“ Richmond Enquirer,” April,1824.) ocean to mingle their great wa
ters. Ten thousand men, or about DISPATCH.--A gentleman in this city that numher are now employed in the dispatched an order to England on unrivalled enterprize-the offspring the 16th of January last, for a quan- of the bold and masculine policy of tity of Dry Goods, and yesterday they our present Chief Magistrate. We arrived in the packet ship Columbia ; have just been informed that a canal making but 53 days since the order is to be cut from Providence, Rhode was sent.
Island, to Worcester in the State of (“New-York National Intelligencer"
Massachusetts, the distance being 9 March,1824)
about forty miles.—We deem this
canal of great importance to the city PORTRAIT OF COLUMBUS. — We are of New York. It will increase her highly gratified to state, that by the commerce, and hasten her on, with last arrival from Spain, our country is other combining circumstances, to that