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LITERARY CABINET.

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With the single exception of an which it forces upon the mind, comearthquake, there is no catastrophe bine to render it one of the most apso rapidly destructive of the life and palling and exciting incidents which property of men as that of fire in a the imagination can conceive. populous city. The dreadfully sub- Although the conflagration depietlime spectacle produced by the raging ed in the above cut took place in the element, joined to the mingled sensa- day-time, when such occurrences are tjuns of horror and consternation less calculated to inspire terror than during the tranquillity of night, and away the wood-work, they were when the means of prevention are

somewhat subdued, but repeatedly niore readily procured, few flames seized the house afresh, and eventually perhaps eyer assumed so terrible an as- did it much damage. In the rear of pect in so brief a period. So rapidly these premises our printing-office is destructive was their power, that with- situated, and we, at one period, fully in a very few minutes after their anticipated that our readers would breaking out, the building, though a have to deplore the irreparable loss of most extensive manufactory, was one every thing appertaining to that most complete mass of fire; and to so in- admirable periodical for which we are credible a distance did their power ex- penning this description. Even the tend, that the inhabitants of houses, New Southampton Arms, (the buildwhich, from their remote situation, ing shewn at the left-hand of the might have just before been deemed print) was for some time considered perfectly secure, were seen removing in danger, and similar preparations their furniture with the utrnost alarm were made for arresting the progress and expedition.

of the destructive element. T'he trees This extraordinary rapidity and displayed in the centre of the cut fierceness of the flames arose from a were also much scorched, and those in combination of several untoward cir- the adjacent gardens, to the left of cumstances. The building contained the manufactory, were utterly desa vast body of timber, no brickwork troyed; but it is remarkable, as shewor plaster (it is said) having been made ing how completely the flames were use of in any of the partitions between influenced by the wind, that a new the numerous apartments; even the house attached to the right-hand ceilings were formed of boards. The side of the buildingwhich was to excessive heat of the weather, which have been occupied in a few days by for some time previous had been in the proprietor of the destroyed pretolerable, had increased in a tenfold mises, sustained but a trifling damage

egree the naturally combustible na- in the upper part, while only the ture of the materials'; and the numer- windowframes of the lower stories exous windows in the back of the build- perienced soine slight injury. ing happening to be all open, gave The Manufactory was commenced admission to a breeze which blew in the year 1824, by Mr. Gunther, a freshly from the south-east, and fan- dealer in musical instruments, and so ning the flames, rendered utterly use- nearly was it completed, that upwards less all efforts to subdue them: 80 of fifty workmen were to have comspeedy was the work of destruction, menced operations in the following that all the internal timber was con- week. The fire, which burst forth sumed before the fire made its way about half past six o'clock in the through the roof.

evening of Wednesday, July 20th, T'he space opposite the building is was occasioned, we are told, by the of remarkable width, being the spot at carelessness of an old woman (wife of which the road from Hampstead and a man who was stationed to guard the Highgate branches off in opposite din premises), who carrying a piece of rections (one towards Tottenham lighted paper across one of the apartCourt-Road and the other towards Bat- ments, dropped it upon a heap of tle Bridge). The flames, however, were shavings, and though four or five carried by the wind completely across, workmen, who were there at the time, and communicated to the old pre- threw planks on the flames, and did mises, formerly the Southampton all in their power to smother them, Arms Tavern, as shewn in the back- they immediately spread through the ground of our cut. By the strenuous building with irrepressible fury. exertions of a number of men, who, We have not heard that any perat iminent peril, mounted to the roof, son was hurt; but, unluckily, a fine pouring down water aud tearing Newfoundland Dog, which had been allowed to run loose during the day, biting foreign manufactures; and it was tied up a few minutes before the appears from the manner in which fire broke out, and in the consequent pins are described in a Statute of the confusion being forgotten, perished 34th and 35th of Henry VIII., and in the flames. The premises, we be- the labour and time which the manulieve, were insured to the full amount facture of them would require, that of their value.

they were a new invention in this We feel pretty confident that no country, and probably but lately one who witnessed the very extraor- brought froin France. However, in dinary manner in which'immense about three years time, they fell into volumes of smoke and fire rolled forth the present ingenious and expeditious from this building, will forget the manner of making them. One of the awful appearance they presented, or articles of the Statutes of the ancient pronounce our sketch of the conflag- pinmakers of Paris was, that no masration to be an exaggerated one ; ter should open more than one shop though perchance it may be deemed for the sale of his wares, except on so by those who merely form an opi- New Year's day, and the Eve thereof;, nion of it from our imperfect descrip- this shows the agreeable sitplicity of tion. · We repeat, however, that, for our forefathers, who contented thema brief period, the fury of the flames selves with giving pins for new-year's was unprecedented and incredible, and gifts. Hence the custom of still give it therefore struck us that a cut, which ing the name pins, or pin-money, to might convey some faint idea of the certain presents, which accompany catastrophe, would not be totally des- the most considerable bargains, in titute of interest either to those who which it is usual to give something are acquainted with the neighbour towards the pins of the wife or chilhood, or those who are strangers dren of the person with whom the to it.

bargain is struck. This, Mr. Editor, is a tiny subject, but, recollect, poor

Richard says "A pin a day, is a PINS AND DOLLS' EYES. groat a year."

Respecting Dolls' Eyes, the followSır, -The articles above-mentioned ing curious statement was made before are seemingly but of trifling impor- the Select Committee on Artizans and tance,'tis true,yet in fact their manu- Machinery, in 1824, by Mr. Osler, facture furuishes no inconsiderable

a glass' trinket and chandelier employment to numerous individuals; manufacturer. Mr. Osler was deand is a source of great wealth to the puted to attend the Committee, by country. The following particulars the Chamber of Commerce, at Birmay therefore be found interesting. mingham.

Pins were formerly made of iron Eighteen years ago, on my first wire, which, being blanched, passed journey to London, a respectable for brass ; but the ill effect has almost looking man, in the city,asked me if I altogether discarded their use, and could supply him with dolls'eyes; and I they are now_mostiy made of brass was foolish enough to feel half offend. wire. The French, however, could ed; I thought it derogatory to my not be driven from them without new dignity as a manufacturer, to several arrets of Parliameut. By a make dolls' eyes. He took me into a sentence of the Lieutenant de Police, room quite as wide, and perhaps twice July, 1695, the seizure of some mil- the length of this, and we had just lions of these pins was confirmed, room to walk between stacks,, from and the pins condemned to be burnt the floor to the ceiling, of parts of by the common executioner. The dolls. He said, “These are only the first mention of pins that occurs in the legs and arms; the trunks are below,' English Statute-books,is found in the But I saw enough to convince me Statute of Richard III., 1485, prohi. that he wanted a great many eyeś i

can.

and as the article appeared quite in You can now make dolls”?_"I iny line of business, I said I would As it was 18 years ago that I take an order by way of experiment; received the order, I have mentioned, and he shewed ine several specimens. and feeling doubtful of my own recolI copied the order. He ordered vari- lection, though very strong, and susous quantities, and of various sizes pecting that it could not have been and qualities. On returoing to the to the amount stated, 1 last night took Tavistock hotel, I found that the or- the present very reduced price of that der amounted to upwards of £500. article (less than half now of what it I went into the country, and endea- was then,) and calculating upon every veured to make them. I had some of child in this country not using a doll the most ingenious toy-makers in the till two years old, and throwing it kingdom in my service; but when I aside at seven, and having a new one shewed it to them, they shook their annually, I satisfied my self that the heads and said, they had often seen eyes alone would produce a circulation the article before, but could not make of a great many thousand pounds. it. I engaged them by presents to I mention this merely to show the use their best exertions: but after importance of trifles ; and to assign trying and wasting a great deal of one reason, amongst many, for my time for three or four weeks, I was conviction, that nothing personal obliged to relinquish the attempt. communication can enable our manu: Soon afterwards I engaged in another factures to be transplanted." branch of business (chandlier furniture) and took no more notice of it. About eighteen months ago I re- ANECDOTES OF DRESS. sumed the trinket trade, and then determined to think of the dolls' eyes ; No doubt, says Camden, but after and about eight months since, I acci- the creation, man kind went first. nadently met with, a poor fellow who ked, and, in probability, long so conhad impoverished himself by drinking, tinued: for that as Nature had armand who was in a dying consumption ed other creatures with hair, bristles, in a state of great want. I shewed shells, and scales, so also man was him ten sovereigns; and he said he framed sufficient against the injuries would instruct me in the process. He of the air. For in this our country, was in such a state that he could not in Severus's time, the most northern bear the efluvia of his own lamp; Britons were naked, and thereunto but though I was very conversant use bad so hardened them. According with the manual part of the busiuess,

to that which a half-naked, poor begand it related to things I was daily gar answered in cold weather to one in the habit of seeing, I felt I could warmly clad with his furs, muffs, and do nothing from his discription. (Isables about his neck, marvelling at mention this to show how difficult it his nakedness— 1 as much marvet is to convey, by description, the mode how you can abide your face bare, for of working.) He took me into his all my body is made of the same megarret, where the poor fellow had tal that your face is." economized to such a degree, that be But a bashful shame-facedness, inactually used the entrails and fat of bred in man,and withal a natural desire poultry from Leadenhall-market, to of decency and necessity of coverture save oil (the price of the article having in extreme weather, first gave occabeen latterly so much reduced by sion to iuvent apparel, and afterwards competition at home.)-In an instant, pride, playing upon conceited opibefore I had seen himn make three, í nions of decency, hath infinitely vafelt competent to make a gross; and ried the same in matter, form, and fathe difference between his mode and shion, and so now doth and will conthat of my own workmèn was so trif- tinually. ling, that I felt the utmost astonish- Lucretius, the ancient poet, thought ment."

was

as

that garments of knit-work, and after you may understand by King William of woven, were first in use; but others Rufus's hose, of which I shall speak think that beasts' skins-after Adam's hereafter. leaves--was man's first coverture.- King Henry the First reprehended Certainly, at Cæsar's arrival, some much the immodesty of apparel years before Christ's Nativity, the in his days ; particulars are not speciBritons in the south parts of this islefied, but the wearing of long hair, were attired with skins; and after, as with locks and perukes, he abocivility grew under the Romans, lished. they assumed the Roman habit. King Henry the Second brought in

The English, which, at their first the short mantle, and thereof had the arrival here, used long jackets were by-name of court-mantle : and in this shorn all round the head, saving about time the use of silk (I mean Bomthe crown, and under that an iron bycina), made by silkworms, was ring. After, they wore loose and brought out of Greece into Sicily, large white garments, with broad and then into other parts of Christ guards of divers colours, as the Lom- endom: for sericum, which was a bards. Somewhat before the Con- downe kemhed off from trees among quest they were all gallant with coats the Seres in East ludia, and byssus, to the mid-knee, head shorn, beard a plant or kind of silk grass, as they shaved, arms laden with bracelets, and now call it, were unknown. face painted.

There was also a costly stuff, at Whosoever will enter into this those times here in England,called,in argument since the Conquest, his Latin, aurifusium ; what it pen may have a spacious walk; but named in English I know not, nei1, purposing to be brief, will omit the ther do imagine it auriphrygium, royal habits of Kings at their coron- and to signify embroidery with gold, ation, the mantle of St. Edward, the opera phrygia, were embroi. Dalmatica with sleeves, a sacerdotal dery. 'Whatsoever it was much desired garment, their hose, and sandals ; as it was by the Popes, and highly esalso the honourable habiliments, as teemed in Italy. But to the purrobes of State, Parlia:nent rober, posechaperons, and caps of Estate, houp- What the habits both civil and lads (which some think to be trains), military, were, in the time of King the surcoat, mantle, hood, and collar of John, Henry III. and succeeding the Order of the Garter, &c.; the ages, may better appear by their ghimoey, rochets, mitres of Bishops, monuments, old glass windows, and with the Archbisop's pall bought so ancient asras, thay be found in writers dearly at Rome, and yet but made of those times. As also the robes with the wool of white lambs fed by (which the Kings then allowed to each St. Agnes’s nuns, and led about St. Knight when he was dubbed) of green Peter's altar, and laid upon his tomb. or burnet, viz - "Tunicam et palliure Neither will I speak of the Judges' cum penulis byssis *," as they speake red robes and collar of ss., which in that age, and appeareth upon they used in memory of St. Simp- record. Neither is it to be doubled, licius, a sanctified lawyer and Senator but successive time and English inut:of Rome. I omit, I say, all these bility, brought in continually new cuts, inatters, whereof each one would

as in the times of King Edward the require a whole treatise, and will brief. Third, which inay. be understood ly note what I have observed by the by this rhime then made ;wav in my little reading.

Long beards heariless, Robert, eldest son to the Con

Painted hoods witless, queror, used short hose, and thereupon Gay coats graceless, wąs by-named court-bose, and shewed

Makes England thriftless. first the use of them to the Engļish. But how slight they were then . The tunic and the cloak with double

capes.

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