during the tranquillity of night, and when the means of prevention are more readily procured, few flames perhaps ever assumed so terrible an aspect in so brief a period. So rapidly destructive was their power, that within a very few minutes after their breaking out, the building, though a most extensive manufactory, was one complete mass of fire; and to so incredible a distance did their power extend, that the inhabitants of houses, which, from their remote situation, might have just before been deemed perfectly secure, were seen removing their furniture with the utmost alarm and expedition.

a

This extraordinary rapidity and fierceness of the flames arose from combination of several untoward circumstances. The building contained a vast body of timber, no brickwork or plaster (it is said) having been made use of in any of the partitions between the numerous apartments; even the ceilings were formed of boards The excessive heat of the weather, which for some time previous had been intolerable, had increased in a tenfold degree the naturally combustible nature of the materials; and the numerous windows in the back of the building happening to be all open, gave admission to a breeze which blew freshly from the south-east, and fanning the flames, rendered utterly useless all efforts to subdue them: so speedy was the work of destruction, that all the internal timber was consumed before the fire made its way through the roof.

The space opposite the building is of remarkable width, being the spot at which the road from Hampstead and Highgate branches off in opposite directions (one towards Tottenham Court-Road and the other towards Battle Bridge). The flames, however, were carried by the wind completely across, and communicated to the old premises, formerly the Southampton Arms Tavern, as shewn in the background of our cut. By the strenuous exertions of a number of men, who, at iminent peril, mounted to the roof, pouring down water aud tearing

away the wood-work, they were somewhat subdued, but repeatedly seized the house afresh, and eventually did it much damage. In the rear of these premises our printing-office is situated, and we, at one period, fully anticipated that our readers would have to deplore the irreparable loss of every thing appertaining to that most admirable periodical for which we are penning this description. Even the New Southampton Arms, (the building shewn at the left-hand of the print) was for some time considered in danger, and similar preparations were made for arresting the progress of the destructive element. The trees displayed in the centre of the cut were also much scorched, and those in the adjacent gardens, to the LEFT of the manufactory, were utterly destroyed; but it is remarkable, as shewing how completely the flames were influenced by the wind, that a new house attached to the RIGHT-hand side of the building, which was to have been occupied in a few days by the proprietor of the destroyed premises, sustained but a trifling damage in the upper part, while only the window frames of the lower stories experienced some slight injury.

The Manufactory was commenced in the year 1824, by Mr. Gunther, a dealer in musical instruments, and so nearly was it completed, that upwards of fifty workmen were to have commenced operations in the following week. The fire, which burst forth about half past six o'clock in the evening of Wednesday, July 20th, was occasioned, we are told, by the carelessness of an old woman (wife of a man who was stationed to guard the premises), who carrying a piece of lighted paper across one of the apartments, dropped it upon a heap of shavings, and though four or five workmen, who were there at the time, threw planks on the flames, and did all in their power to smother them, they immediately spread through the building with irrepressible fury.

We have not heard that any person was hurt; but, unluckily, a fine Newfoundland Dog, which had been

allowed to run loose during the day, was tied up a few minutes before the fire broke out, and in the consequent confusion being forgotten, perished in the flames. The premises, we believe, were insured to the full amount of their value.

We feel pretty confident that no one who witnessed the very extraordinary manner in which immense volumes of smoke and fire rolled forth from this building, will forget the awful appearance they presented, or pronounce our sketch of the conflagration to be an exaggerated one; though perchance it may be deemed so by those who merely form an opinion of it from our imperfect description. We repeat, however, that, for a brief period, the fury of the flames was unprecedented and incredible, and it therefore struck us that a cut, which might convey some faint idea of the catastrophe, would not be totally destitute of interest either to those who are acquainted with the neighbourhood, or those who are strangers

to it.

PINS AND DOLLS' EYES.

SIR,-The articles above-mentioned are seemingly but of trifling importance, 'tis true,yet in fact their manufacture furuishes no inconsiderable employment to numerous individuals; and is a source of great wealth to the country. The following particulars may therefore be found interesting.

PINS were formerly made of iron wire, which, being blanched, passed for brass; but the ill effect has almost altogether discarded their use, and they are now mostly made of brass wire. The French, however, could not be driven from them without several arrets of Parliament. By a sentence of the Lieutenant de Police, July, 1695, the seizure of some millions of these pins was confirmed, and the pins condemned to be burnt by the common executioner. The first mention of pins that occurs in the English Statute-books, is found in the Statute of Richard III., 1485, prohi

biting foreign manufactures; and it appears from the manner in which pins are described in a Statute of the 34th and 35th of Henry VIII., and the labour and time which the manufacture of them would require, that they were a new invention in this country, and probably but lately brought from France. However, in about three years time, they fell into the present ingenious and expeditious manner of making them. One of the articles of the Statutes of the ancient pinmakers of Paris was, that no master should open more than one shop for the sale of his wares, except on New Year's day, and the Eve thereof; this shows the agreeable simplicity of our forefathers, who contented themselves with giving pins for new-year's gifts. Hence the custom of still giv ing the name pins, or pin-money, to certain presents, which accompany the most considerable bargains, in which it is usual to give something towards the pins of the wife or children of the person with whom the bargain is struck. This, Mr. Editor, is a tiny subject, but, recollect, poor Richard says "A pin a day, is a groat a year."

Respecting Dolls' Eyes, the following curious statement was made before the Select Committee on Artizans and Machinery, in 1824, by Mr. Osler, a glass trinket and chandelier manufacturer. Mr. Osler was deputed to attend the Committee, by the Chamber of Commerce, at Birmingham.

'Eighteen years ago, on my first journey to London, a respectable looking man, in the city,asked me if I could supply him with dolls'eyes; and I was foolish enough to feel half offended; I thought it derogatory to my new dignity as a manufacturer, to make dolls' eyes. He took me into a room quite as wide, and perhaps twice the length of this, and we had just room to walk between stacks,, from the floor to the ceiling, of parts of dolls. He said, These are only the legs and arms; the trunks are below,' But I saw enough to convince me that he wanted a great many eyes;

and as the article appeared quite in my line of business, I said I would take an order by way of experiment; and he shewed me several specimens. I copied the order. He ordered various quantities, and of various sizes and qualities. On returning to the Tavistock hotel, I found that the order amounted to upwards of £500. I went into the country, and endeaveured to make them. I had some of the most ingenious toy-makers in the kingdom in my service; but when I shewed it to them, they shook their heads and said, they had often seen the article before, but could not make it. I engaged them by presents to use their best exertions: but after trying and wasting a great deal of time for three or four weeks, I was obliged to relinquish the attempt. Soon afterwards I engaged in another branch of business (chandlier furniture) and took no more notice of it. About eighteen months ago I re sumed the trinket trade, and then determined to think of the dolls' eyes; and about eight months since, I accidently met with, a poor fellow who had impoverished himself by drinking, and who was in a dying consumption in a state of great want. I shewed him ten sovereigns; and he said he would instruct me in the process. He was in such a state that he could not bear the effluvia of his own lamp; but though I was very conversant with the manual part of the busiuess, and it related to things I was daily in the habit of seeing, I felt I could do nothing from his discription. (I mention this to show how difficult it is to convey, by description, the mode of working.) He took me into his garret, where the poor fellow had economized to such a degree, that he actually used the entrails and fat of, poultry from Leadenhall-market, to save oil (the price of the article having been latterly so much reduced by competition at home.)-In an instant, before I had seen him make three, I felt competent to make a gross; and the difference between his mode and that of my own workmen was so trifling, that I felt the utmost astonishment."

"You can now make dolls"?—“ I can. As it was 18 years ago that I' received the order, I have mentioned, and feeling doubtful of my own recollection, though very strong, and suspeeting that it could not have been to the amount stated, I last night took the present very reduced price of that article (less than half now of what it was then,) and calculating upon every child in this country not using a doll till two years old, and throwing it aside at seven, and having a new one annually, I satisfied my self that the eyes alone would produce a circulation of a great many thousand pounds. I mention this merely to shew the importance of trifles; and to assign one reason, amongst many, for my conviction, that nothing personal communication can enable our manufactures to be transplanted."

ANECDOTES OF DRESS.

No doubt, says Camden, but after the creation, man kind went first na¬ ked, and, in probability, long so continued: for that as Nature had armed other creatures with hair, bristles, shells, and scales, so also man was framed sufficient against the injuries of the air. For in this our country, in Severus's time, the most northern Britons were naked, and thereunto use bad so hardened them. According to that which a half-naked, poor beggar answered in cold weather to one warmly clad with his furs, muffs, and sables about his neck, marvelling at his nakedness" as much marvel how you can abide your face bare, for all my body is made of the same metal that your face is."

But a bashful shame-facedness, inbred in man,and withal a natural desire of decency and necessity of coverture in extreme weather, first gave occasion to iuvent apparel, and afterwards pride, playing upon conceited opinions of decency, hath infinitely varied the same in matter, form, and fashion, and so now doth and will continually.

Lucretius, the ancient poet, thought

that garments of knit-work, and after of woven, were first in use; but others think that beasts' skins-after Adam's leaves was man's first coverture.Certainly, at Cæsar's arrival, some years before Christ's Nativity, the Britons in the south parts of this isle were attired with skins; and after, as civility grew under the Romans, they assumed the Roman habit.

The English, which, at their first arrival here, used long jackets were shorn all round the head, saving about the crown, and under that an iron ring. After, they wore loose and large white garments, with broad guards of divers colours, as the Lombards. Somewhat before the Conquest they were all gallant with coats to the mid-knee, head shorn, beard shaved, arms laden with bracelets, and face painted.

Whosoever will enter into this argument since the Conquest, his pen may have a spacious walk; but I, purposing to be brief, will omit the royal habits of Kings at their coronation, the mantle of St. Edward, the Dalmatica with sleeves, a sacerdotal garment, their hose, and sandals; as also the honourable habiliments, as robes of State, Parliament robes, chaperons, and caps of Estate, houplads (which some think to be trains), the surcoat, mantle, hood, and collar of the Order of the Garter, &c.; the ghimney, rochets, mitres of Bishops, with the Archbisop's pall bought so dearly at Rome, and yet but made with the wool of white lambs fed by St. Agnes's nuns, and led about St. Peter's altar, and laid upon his tomb. Neither will I speak of the Judges red robes and collar of SS., which they used in memory of St. Simplicius, a sanctified lawyer and Senator of Rome. I omit, I say, all these matters, whereof each one would require a whole treatise, and will briefly note what I have observed by the way in my little reading.

Robert, eldest son to the Conqueror, used short hose, and thereupon was by-named court-hose, and shewed first the use of them to the English. But how slight they were then

you may understand by King William Rufus's hose, of which I shall speak hereafter.

King Henry the First reprehended much the immodesty of apparel in his days; particulars are not specified, but the wearing of long hair,, with locks and perukes, he abolished.

King Henry the Second brought in the short mantle, and thereof had the by-name of court-mantle and in this time the use of silk (I mean Bombycina), made by silkworms, was brought out of Greece into Sicily, and then into other parts of Christ. endom: for, sericum, which was a downe kembed off from trees among the Seres in East India, and byssus, a plant or kind of silk grass, as they now call it, were unknown.

was

There was also a costly stuff, at those times here in England, called,in Latin, aurifusium; what it named in English I know not, neither do imagine it auriphrygium, and to signify embroidery with gold, as opera phrygia, were embroidery. Whatsoever it was, much desired it was by the Popes, and highly esteemed in Italy. But to the purpose

What the habits both civil and military, were, in the time of King John, Henry III. and succeeding ages, may better appear by their monuments, old glass windows, and ancient arras, than be found in writers of those times. As also the robes (which the Kings then allowed to each Knight when he was dubbed) of green or burnet, viz "Tunicam et pallium cum penulis by ssis *,' as they speake in that age, and appeareth upon record. Neither is it to be doubted, but successive time and English mutability, brought in continually new cuts, as in the times of King Edward the Third, which may be understood by this rhime then made :

Long beards heartless, Painted hoods witless, Gay coats graceless, Makes England thriftless.

The tunic and the cloak with double capes.

Many statues were also povided in that behalf, and the history called Eulogium, "proveth no less. The commons (saith he) were besotted in excess of apparel, in wide surcoats, reaching to their loins-some in a garment reaching to their heels, close before, and strouting out on the sides, so that on the back they make men seem women, and this they call by the ridiculous name gown. Their hoods are little, tied under the chin, and buttoned like the womens, but set with gold, silver, and precious stones; their Lirripippes reach to their heels, all jagged. They have another weed of silk, which they call a Paltock; their hose are of two colours, or pied, with more, which, with latchets, which they call Harlots, they tie to their Paltocks, without any breeches. Their girdles are of gold and silver, some worth twenty marks; their shoes and pattens are snowted and piked more than a finger long, crooking upwards, which they call Crakows, resembling the devil's claws. which were fastened to the knees with chains of gold and silver. And thus were they garmented, what were lions in the hall and hares in the field.

The "Book of Worcester" reporteth that, in the year 1369, they began to use caps of divers colours, especially red, with costly, linings; and in 1372 they first began to wanton it in a new round curtal weed, which they called Cloak, and in Latin Armilansa, as only covering the shoulders. Here you may see when gowns, cloaks, and caps, first came into use, though doubtless they had some such like attire in different

its having been a market for corn time out of mind: and that at the east end of the street there was a reservoir or cistern, supplied with Thames water by an engine, from whence it was distributed by pipes to neighbouring streets : that there was also a conduit in the middle of the street, which was first a prison for night-walkers, called the Tunn, from its form, which resembled a tun set upon its head; and that on the west side of it was a fine well of spring water. Here, he says, the magistrates used to imprison lewd people, and afterwards, shave their heads and expose them, sounding trumpets before them, and proclaiming their crimes: and that having served several priests in this manner, the Bishop of London complained of it to King Edward I. as an encroachment on his spiritual authority. Whereupon that King ordered that no clerk should be imprisoned in the Tunn in future; and in the year 1401 this prison of the Tunn was converted into a cistern for preserving water that was brought thither in pipes from Tyburn; but a cage was, however, erected near it for the imprisonment of night-walkers, and on the top of it a pillory placed for bakers offending in the assize of bread, and for millers spoiling corn, and for bawds, scolds,&c. Here Stow relates a merry story of a priest in his time, who, having been too familiar with the wife of one Atwood, a draper, in Cornhill, was taken in the fact by the husband, and forced to jump out of the window, and that he (Stow) afterwards saw the priest punished for his incontinency in the following manner :

He was, on three market days, conveyed throngh the high streets and markets of the City, with a paper on his head declaring his offence: that the first day he rode in a cart, the second, on a horse, with his face to the tail, and the third, he was led on foot between two people, and that they rung basins before him, and made proclamation of the fact at the turning of every street, and particu larly before Atwood's stall, and at