FUNERAL CEREMONIES-TRAVELLING APPARATUS. 73

of women, the lively chanting of the youths, and the deep tones uttered by the Yemenéeh, compose a strange discord.

The wailing of women at funerals was forbidden by the prophet; and so also was the celebration of the virtues of the deceased. Some of these precepts are every day violated; and I have seen mourning women of the lower classes, following a bier, having their faces, which were bare, and their head-coverings and bosoms besmeared with mud.

The funeral procession of a man of wealth, or of the middle classes, is sometimes preceded by three, four or more camels, bearing bread and water to give to the poor at the tomb, and is composed of a more numerous and varied assemblage of persons. In such a procession-besides the persons already mentioned, the led horses of the bearers, if men of rank, often follow the bier; and a buffalo, to be sacrificed at the tomb, where its flesh is to be distributed to the poor, closes the procession.

Having resolved to proceed to Cairo, there to decide upon our future movements, we set about making such provisions for our journey as the customs of the country rendered necessary; for in the east, no comforts or conveniences for the traveller are to be met with by the way. If he desire the luxury of a bed, he must carry it with him; if the protection of a tent, against the heat of the sun, he must not omit to furnish himself with it before he starts; if his European habits lead him to look upon plates, cups, knives, forks, and spoons, as needful matters of convenience, he must secure them ere he bids farewell to the bazaars of Alexandria and Cairo; and so, in like manner, in regard to the ordinary matters of sustenance-biscuit, rice, maccaroni, coffee, sugar, preserved fruits, &c. A long fatiguing visit to the bazaars of Alexandria, furnished us with many requisites; the rest we were obliged to defer till we should reach Cairo. It is a disgusting task to make bargains with oriental traders; the utter dishonesty of their habits is

74

MARRIAGE PROCESSION-MAHMOUDI CANAL.

so apparent. They make no attempt at concealment. I am now speaking of oriental traders; but I cannot help adding my fervent wish that instances of over-reaching, and degrading dishonesty were confined to them.

While we were in our rooms on the evening preceding our departure, making various preparations for the journey, our attention was arrested by a loud sound-a chorus of men's voices, accompanied by the beating of drums and the rude music of reed-pipes, with a drone, not altogether unlike the Scottish bagpipes. On turning to the window, we saw a long procession of gaily-dressed persons, bearing lighted torches, which illuminated the whole street. In addition to this, fire-baskets, of iron, were carried about on long poles, supplied with blazing fuel. It was a marriage procession"the voice of the bridegroom and of the bride." The bridegroom was on his way to claim his bride, attended by his friends, rejoicing. The whole scene forcibly brought to my mind the allusions to marriage customs made by our blessed Saviour.

It was early on the twenty-ninth of April that we commenced our route to Grand Cairo-no small undertaking, all things considered. Our passage was along the Mahmoudi canal, as far as Atfeh; and from thence up the Nile. The season was charming; but the way was dreary enough. Soon after we had embarked in our towing-boat, I noticed a contrivance for raising water from the canal, for the purpose of irrigation. Many repetitions of it occurred as we advanced. It was a kind of "man-mill," if I may venture upon such a designation. At the brink of the canal stood two men, on a firm floor or footing, constructed with rough stones, holding between them a sort of basket, made water tight, capable of containing, perhaps, about six or eight gallons, suspended by a rope, fastened at each side and drawn tight. Then by a rapid, see-saw motion, they first dived the vessel into the water, and quickly bringing it back again, inverted it, pouring its contents into a channel cut in the bank, along which the

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water flowed towards the spot from which the irrigation was intended to proceed. It was a very simple, yet efficient contrivance.

All our progress along the canal was effected by towingfor which purpose, sometimes four, and at others, six horses were employed, and changed about every twelve miles. The horses were ridden by wild, half-naked Arabs, and sometimes Nubians, whose feats of horsemanship, on the banks of the canal, were perfectly novel and amusing. The Arab, though taught to ride from his birth-first astride on the shoulders of his mother, and then, on every animal from the camel to the ass, is yet a most peculiar rider. He does not, like a European, sit so close to his horse, as to appear glued to the creature, but he looks more like a bird, ready to take wing at any moment; and he seems to lay hold of the stirrup with his bare feet, as if they were the claws of a bird. When dashing along at a rapid rate, they set up a wild shout, which breaks at length into a choral song, anything but harmonious to European ears. In some parts of the canal the water is exceedingly scanty, and, on other accounts also, impracticable for the ordinary plan of towing with horses on the banks. This inconvenience is constantly met by the riders springing from their horses, dashing at once into the water, tackling themselves with ropes, and swimming sometimes, and at other times rushing over the shoals of sand, and dragging the boat along with surprising force and agility. In this picturesque operation they are joined by the crew; while the unyoked horses are led on to resume their labour as soon as the state of the river will admit. This curious scene we repeatedly witnessed in our passage along the canal and up the Nile. The Arabs are almost amphibious creatures; and whether toiling in the burning sun, or immersed to their chins in water, seem to be utterly regardless of personal inconvenience.

After we had proceeded nearly half way to Atfeh, news was brought that Mehemet Ali-the Pasha of Egypt, was on

his way from Cairo to Alexandria. In consequence of this, it was feared that our boat might be enlisted in his highness's service. After having continued our route for another hour or so, we descried an encampment on the bank of the canal, which consisted of the attendants of the great man; and on stepping ashore, we learnt that the far-famed "Lion” of Egypt was resting at a small farm house to dine. It was not long before our boat was required; and it became necessary for us to get the baggage, &c. unloaded, to be taken on to Atfeh in the best way it might; while we ourselves were left to proceed in any small craft that could be procured. All this was inconvenient enough; but there was no help for it. The first intention was that the baggage should be sent on by camels, of which there were some at hand. But, alas! the Pasha had pressed every one into his service. However, by a little dexterity and management, camels sufficient for our purpose were secured, after a wild scene of Arab violence and uproar, in which there is always more sound than danger. A small latteen-sailed boat was obtained after we had walked on for some distance, just sufficient to convey us and our attendants.

We had a full view of Mehemet Ali as he sat at dinner, and while he was enjoying his chibouk, attended by his retinue; and afterwards, when he came from the farm house, and mounted his white mule, for the purpose of taking possession of our boat, we were enabled to form a tolerably accurate notion of his person. He is a most remarkable man, and realized all we had heard about him. He is now past seventy, with a hale, firm, and determined countenance, and venerable white beard. Seeing two Europeans near him, as he hastily passed by, he glanced a very peculiar, but not unfriendly, glance upon us; acknowledged slightly our bows, made some passing observations to his nearest attendants, with an evident reference to us, and in another minute was mounted on his mule. His highness's pipe-bearer and coffeebearer, his silver washhand bason and towel-bearer, secretary and interpreter, all, were in immediate attendance upon him.

The scene was very interesting and very oriental. Here was perhaps almost the wonder of the age-the soldier of fortune, who had risen from the humblest rank in the Turkish armynow the powerful despot of Egypt, with almost patriarchal simplicity, taking his homely mid-day meal at a small farm house, and departing as ancient despots used, surrounded by slaves, camels, dromedaries, &c. &c.

I shall not easily lose the impression made on my mind by this glance at Mehemet Ali. Had he reached Alexandria before our departure, we should have been presented to him. And even on this occasion, it might have been practicable; but we thought, willing as he is to receive Europeans, it might be then deemed intrusive; so we suffered the opportunity to pass.

It was nearly ten o'clock in the evening, and very dark, with the exception of the light afforded by numberless stars, when we came to shore, within about two miles of Atfeh, where the canal joins the Nile. On landing, we found a supply of camels to take our baggage, and saddled donkeys for riding. It was a strange and primitive scene. Camels were gurgling and grunting in a loud strain-donkeys were keeping up a perpetual braying-while Arab tongues, some hoarse and shouting-some shrill and screaming-others sputtering their exclamations of anger and eagerness, made up a babel of strange sounds. At length, all the baggage was loaded-donkeys were mounted by our whole party, and a goodly number of lanterns lighted; and we set out, over a rough, hilly, and uneven road, along which we were obliged to trust entirely to our sure-footed animals. We seemed to be a tediously long time in getting over the two miles; but at last arrived safely at Atfeh, where we stayed for the night, at a miserable kind of half-European hotel, swarming with animalculæ, under a promise of being furnished at an early hour of the morning, with a suitable Nile-boat and crew, to take us up to Cairo. We partook of a coarse, homely supper-such as an Englishman would, under ordinary