1820.] FRANKLIN'S FIRST JOURNEY. 181 washed away by the fury of the elements; but the name of Mackenzie is enduringly consecrated in the annals of discovery, as the first person who penetrated from sea to sea across the immense continent of North America. His return by the same route it is unnecessary to pursue. CHAPTER IV. Discoveries along the Shores of the Arctic Ocean. First and Second Expeditions of Franklin-Voyage of Captain Beechey. THE discoveries of Hearne and Mackenzie established the great fact that there is a northern coast in America, washed by the Arctic Ocean, which forms, in all probability, its continuous boundary; and they demonstrated the practicability of reaching this limit by passing over the vast plains which stretch northward from Canada and Hudson's Bay. The voyages of Captain Parry, also, which have been already detailed,* fully corroborated this opinion; and it appeared evident that another expedition, properly conducted, might reach this shore, and more fully examine its whole extent. Such an expedition, accordingly, sailed from England on the 23d of May 1820, its command being entrusted to Lieutenant, now Sir John Franklin, assisted by Dr. Richardson, an able mineralogist and natural historian. During the first portion of their journey, they followed the chain of the great lakes, instead of the more eastern track pursued by Hearne; and having descended the Coppermine River, arrived, on 21st July, at the shore of the Arctic Ocean, where they commenced their career of * Polar Seas and Regions, 3d edit. p. 263-323. 182 VOYAGE ALONG THE ARCTIC SHORES. [1820. discovery. Important as were the particulars of their survey, when considered in relation to the furtherance of geographical science, a minute detail is here unnecessary, and we shall attempt only a general sketch. Paddling along the coast to the eastward, on the inside of a crowded range of islands, they encamped on shore after a run of thirty-seven miles, in which they experienced little interruption, and saw only a small iceberg in the distance, though that beautiful luminous effulgence emitted from the congregated ices, and distinguished by the name of the ice-blink, was distinctly visible to the northward. The coast was found of moderate height, easy of access, and covered with vegetation; but the islands were rocky and barren, presenting high cliffs of a columnar structure. In continuing their voyage, the dangers which beset a navigator in these dreadful polar solitudes thickened gloomily around them. The coast became broken and sterile, and at length rose into a high and rugged promontory, against which some large masses of ice had drifted, threatening destruction to their slender canoes. In attempting to round this cape the wind rose, an awful gloom involved the sky, and the thunder burst over their heads, compelling them to encamp till the storm subsided. They then, at the imminent risk of having the canoes crushed by the floating ice, doubled the dreary promontory, which they denominated Cape Barrow, and entered Detention Harbour, where they landed. Around them the land consisted of mountains of granite, rising abruptly from the water's edge, destitute of vegetation, and attaining an elevation of fourteen or fifteen hundred feet; seals and small deer were the only animals seen, and the former were so shy that all attempts to approach within shot were unsuccessful. With the deer the hunters were more fortunate, but these were not numerous; and whilst the ice closed gradually around 1820.] CAPE KATER AND BANKES' PENINSULA. 183 them, and their little stock of provisions, consisting of pemmican and cured beef, every day diminished, it was impossible not to regard their situation with uneasiness. Rounding Cape Kater, they entered Arctic Sound, and sent a party to explore a river upon the banks of which they expected to find an Esquimaux encampment. All, however, was silent, desolate, and deserted; even these hardy natives, bred amidst the polar ices, had removed from so barren a spot, and the hunters returned with two small deer and a brown bear, the latter animal so lean and sickly looking, that the men declined eating it; but the officers boiled its paws, and found them excellent. Proceeding along the eastern shore of Arctic Sound, to which they gave the name of Bankes' Peninsula, the expedition made its painful way along a coast indented by bays, and in many places studded with islands, till, on 10th August, they reached the open sea; and sailing, as they imagined, between the continent and a large island, found to their deep disappointment that, instead of an open channel, they were in the centre of a vast bay. The state of the expedition now called for the most serious consideration upon the part of their commander. So much time had already been spent in exploring the sounds and inlets, that all hope of reaching Repulse Bay was vain; both canoes had sustained material injury; the fuel was expended; their provisions were sufficient only for three days; the appearances of the setting in of the arctic winter were too unequivocal to be mistaken; the deer, which had hitherto supplied them with fresh meat, would, it was well known, soon disappear; the geese and other aquatic birds were already seen winging their way to the southward; while the men, who had up to this moment displayed the utmost courage, began to look disheartened, and to entertain serious apprehensions for their safety. Under these circumstances, 184 LAND JOURNEY. [1820. Franklin, with the concurrence of his officers, determined not to endanger the lives of his people by a farther advance; and after spending four days in a minute survey of the bay, it was resolved to return by Hood's River to Fort Enterprise. Franklin's researches, as far as prosecuted at this time, favoured the opinion of those who contended for the practicability of a north-west passage. It appeared probable that the coast ran east and west in the latitude assigned to Mackenzie's River, and little doubt could, in his opinion, be entertained regarding the existence of a continued sea in that direction. The portion over which they passed was navigable for vessels of any size; and the ice met with after quitting Detention Harbour would not have arrested a strong boat, whilst the chain of islands afforded shelter from all heavy seas, and there were good harbours at convenient distances. Having, with much severe privation, completed their course, from Point Turnagain in Melville Bay to the entrance of Hood's River, they ascended as high as the first rapid, and encamped, terminating here their voyage on the Arctic Sea, during which they had gone over six hundred and fifty geographical miles. On the prospect of commencing their land journey, the Canadians could not conceal their satisfaction; and the evening previous to their departure was passed in talking over their past adventures, and congratulating each other in having at length turned their backs upon the sea, little anticipating that the most painful and hazardous portion of the expedition was yet to come. Before setting off, an assortment of iron materials, beads, looking-glasses, and other articles, was put up in a conspicuous situation for the Esquimaux, and the English union was planted on the loftiest sand-hill, where it might be seen by any ships passing in the offing. Here also was deposited in a tin box, 1820.] EXTREME COLD. 185 a letter containing an outline of the proceedings of the expedition, the latitude and longitude of the principal places, and the course intended to be pursued towards Slave Lake. They now proceeded up the river in their canoes, and though upon a short allowance of provisions, the produce of their nets and fowling-pieces furnished for a few days enough to ward off absolute want; but they were often on the very brink of it. Their progress was much interrupted by shoals and rapids, and one evening they encamped at the lower end of a narrow chasm, the walls of which were upwards of two hundred feet high, and in some places only a few yards apart. Into this the river precipitates itself, forming two magnificent cascades, to which they gave the name of Wilberforce Falls. On taking a survey of its farther course from a neighbouring hill, it was discovered to be so rapid and shallow, that all progress in the large canoes seemed impossible. Two smaller boats were therefore constructed; and on 1st September they set off, with the intention of proceeding in as direct a line as possible to the part of Point Lake opposite their spring encampment-a distance which appeared comparatively trifling, being only one hundred and forty-nine miles. Their luggage consisted of ammunition, nets, hatches, ice-chisels, astronomical instruments, clothing-blankets, three kettles, and the two canoes, each so light as to be carried easily by a single But disaster attacked them in their very first stage. A storm of snow came on, accompanied by a high wind, against which it was difficult to carry the canoes, that were damaged by the falls of those who bore them. The ground was covered by small stones, and much pain was endured by the carriers, whose soft moose-skin shoes were soon cut through. The cold was intense; and on encamping they looked in vain for wood; a fire of moss was all they could procure, which served them to cook their supper, but gave man. |