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snow,

tegrated and washed away, so that the torrent, when swollen by rain or collects, and bears along with it heaps of black sand and rubbish, intermixed with uprooted fir-trees, and is converted almost into a stream of mud, on which masses of rock float like corks. A torrent of such consistence is easily interrupted in its course through the narrow crevices, which it seems to have sawn for itself by the force of its current; it then gathers into a lake behind the obstacles which impede it, until it is increased to such an extent as to bear everything before it, and to spread desolation over the valley through which its course lies. A catastrophe of this sort, in 1762, buried a large part of the village of Meyringen, in one hour, 20 feet deep in rubbish, from which it has hardly yet emerged. The church was filled with mud and gravel to the height of 18 feet, as is denoted by the black line painted along its walls, and by the debris which still covers many of the fields and gardens around. In 1733 an inundation of the same stream carried away many houses.

The

The intelligent traveller Hugi, from whom the above particulars are derived, recommends travellers to visit the Fall of the Alpbach about 9 in the morning, on account of the triple bow, or iris, formed in its spray, when the sun shines on it. inner iris forms nearly a complete circle; and the outer ones are more or less circular as the water in the falls is abundant or not. The spot whence it is visible is within the spray from the cataract, so that those who would enjoy it must prepare for a wetting.

On a rock above the village rise the ruins of the Castle of Resti: it belonged to an ancient and noble family, to whom the praise is given of never tyrannizing over their humble dependants. The men of Hasli are celebrated for their athletic forms and strength. They hold Schwingfeste,

or wrestling matches every year, on the 10th of August, with their neighbours of Unterwalden; and on the first Sunday in September with those of Grindelwald. The women, again, enjoy the reputation of being prettier or rather less plain, than those of most other Swiss valleys. Their holiday costume is peculiar and not ungraceful, consisting of a boddice of black velvet, reaching up to the throat, starched sleeves, a yellow petticoat, and a round black hat, not unlike a soup plate, and about the same size, stuck on one side of the head, and allowing the hair to fall in long tresses down the back.

Six roads concentrate at Meyringen: 1. to Brienz (a char road); 2. to Lucerne, by the Brunig; 3. over the Susten to Wasen on the St. Gotthard road (12 stunden); 4. to the Grimsel; 5. to Grindelwald, by the Scheideck; 6. to Engelberg by the Joch Pass, Gadmenthal, and Genthil Thal. The magnificent fall of the Aar at Handeck on the way to the Grimsel (Route 28), is about 14 miles distant. Travellers, not intending to cross the whole pass, may make an interesting excursion thither from Meyringen; as they may also to the summit of the Brunig, about 6 miles distant, whence there is a beautiful view of the vale of Hasli on one side, and of Lungern on the other. (Route 19).

Meyringen to Interlachen by Brienz and the Giesbach Fall.

3 stunden, or 8 Eng. miles to Brienz, and 33 thence to Interlachen by water = 19 English miles.

There is an excellent char road down the valley, passing numerous cascades leaping down the wall of rock. After proceeding for about 4 miles along the 1. bank of the Aar it crosses the river by a wooden bridge, just at the point where the branch of the Brunig road, leading to Brienz, descends into the valley. The Aar pursues its course through mo

notonous marsh and flat meadow land, but near its influx into the lake of Brienz, the forms of the mountains on its 1. bank, above which towers the Faulhorn, grand. In skirting the margin of the lake the road crosses vast heaps of debris, covering acres of land once fertile. A torrent of mud, in 1797, destroyed a considerable part of two villages near Kienholz, and a landslip from the Brienzergrat, the mountain immediately behind Brienz, overwhelmed in November, 1824, 40 acres of land, and swept 6 persons into the lake. It is 1 hour's drive from Meyrin gen to

31 Brienz—(Inns: L'Ours; excellent; ask for the Lotte, a fish of the lake (gadus mustela): Weisses Kreutz, Croix Blanche, clean) a small village at the E. end of the lake, on a narrow ledge at the foot of the mountains, remarkable only for its beautiful situation and its vicinity to the Giesbach Fall. The traveller ought not to quit Brienz without ascending the Rothhorn, the highest point of the chain, running behind (N. of) Brienz, which commands a view nearly as fine as the Faulhorn. Easy of access, its top may be reached in about 3 hours by a stout walker, in 5 by a mule, and in 6 by a chaise à porteur. The upward path lies at first through a region of fine forest trees, chiefly beech, but including many oaks; to these succeed larch, and above them one third of steep ascent over a bare and barren track. On the ascent fine views are obtained through vistas in the forest of the lake of Brienz. On the top a chalet has been lately built (1840) which affords better accommodation than the Faulhorn - a dinner and even a bed in tolerable comfort. The summit is higher than the Righi, and not so high as the Faulhorn. It takes 2 hours to descend. The chief features of the view are,- S. the whole range of Bernese Alps, seen to great advantage in all their majesty, with

- a con

a foreground of the lake of Brienz close under the mountain, and a peep of the lake of Thun in the gap above Interlachen. Besides this, the vale of Meyringen from the lake of Brienz up nearly to the Grimsel, the lake of Sarnen, with a small lake that may be seen in the foreground, siderable part of the lake of Lucerne, the Righi rising from it, and a bit of the lake of Zug, are visible. Pilate makes a prominent figure. The lake of Constance also appears, and a long strip of the lake of Neuchâtel. "The view of the high Alps from the Rothhorn is not so fine as that from the Faulhorn, but that of the lower country is finer." -J. D.

"An excellent Inn, H. Bellevue, has been established about a mile from Brienz, near the mouth of the Aar; horses may be hired for 9 fr. to Lungern, 15 fr. to Lucerne ; a carriage to the Reichenbach Fall or to Meyringen, 12 fr. A small Steamer runs 3 times a day, in & hour, between it and Interlachen, touching at the Giesbach every trip."- W. C. T. It belongs to the innkeeper. This is a good place for buying carved wood ware.

There is a very rough road along the N. shore of the lake; the guides with the horses may be sent round by it, and desired to meet the travellers close to the bridge at Interlachen. It takes 25 minutes to row from Brienz to the landing-place close to the outlet of the Giesbach, where travellers begin to ascend the steep height leading to the Falls. They are a succession of cascades, leaping step by step from the top of the mountain; and, though inferior in height to the Reichenbach, surpass it in beauty, and in the adjuncts of a rich forest of fir, through the midst of which they break their way. The Giesbach is one of the prettiest of waterfalls; there is nothing wild about it, and the immediate contact

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of green turfy knolls and dark woods, has the effect of a park scene. It is possible to pass behind the middle fall by means of a gallery constructed beneath the shelving rock, from which it casts itself down; and the effect of the landscape seen athwart this curtain of water is singular. The cottage opposite the Falls is inhabited by the schoolmaster of Brienz, whose family and himself are celebrated as the best choristers of native airs in Switzerland. He is now a patriarch of 70, and most of his children are married; but he is training his grand-children to the same profession of songsters. The concert, accompanied by the Alpine horn, with which travellers are saluted on their departure, is very sweet. Good specimens of the Swiss manufacture of carved wood may be purchased at the Giesbach. There is a path from the Giesbach to the top of the Faulhorn, a walk of nearly 5 hours. The lake of Brienz is about 8 miles long, near the mouth of the Giesbach, 500 feet deep; but in the deepest part 2100 feet! Its surface is 4 feet higher than the lake of Thun.

ROUTE 27A.

FROM

PASSAGE OF THE STRAHLECK
GRINDELWALD TO THE GRIMSEL.

"A very difficult pass indeed, suited only to skilful mountaineers, fond of exploring the High Alps. It may be accomplished in 14 or 15 hours. The path, on leaving Grindelwald, ascends rapidly on the 1. hand of the lower glacier, and is practicable for horses for about 1 hour; it then becomes very narrow, being a mere groove in the rock overhanging the glacier. After crossing two or three planks laid across some crevasses in the glacier at the angle of a rock, we reach the chalet of Stiereck, a short 2 hours from Grindelwald. A few minutes beyond the pastures of the Stiereck, the mountains again close

in upon the ice, and the path mounts rapidly for some distance, when the mountains again-recede, and one continues for a time on tolerably level ground. At the extremity of this, it is necessary to get on the glacier; after a few minutes it is again necessary to return to terra firma, to turn a projecting rock, a matter of considerable difficulty and danger. This accomplished, the path ascends rapidly for nearly an hour, when some overhanging rocks are reached, which seem to be the established resting place. Soon afterwards the glacier is again reached, and all path terminates. From this point the view of the Schreckhorn, which rises immediately over you on the left, is truly magnificent. Continuing along the glacier (which is here without crevasses, but difficult to walk on, on account of its steep slope from the left) and passing immediately below two lateral glaciers, which almost overhang you, a nearly precipitous wall of snow is reached, forming the end of the valley. At this point you turn to the left, and, ascending the glacier for a few hundred feet, reach a shady ridge of rocks rising very steeply, and at right angles, to the former route. This is ascended for about 1 hour, when a platform of snow is reached, across which, after another short, but steep ascent, the summit is gained in an The descent, which occupied hours, need not occupy one. fifth of that time, when there is an abundance of new snow; but it was at the time in a very dangerous state, on account of the thin coating of snow on the ice, which is inclined at a very steep angle. In consequence, though the descent is not more than 600 or 800 feet at the utmost, it occupied us 24 hours.

hour. us 2

"The summit of the Strahleck is, indeed, the perfection of wild scenery. Vegetation there is none, save a few of the smallest gentianellas. From the foot of the passage, the Abschwung, where Professor Agassiz's hut

Route 28. is situated, may be reached in 1 hour: thence to the hospice of the Grimsel will take a good walker 3 hours, 2 of them on the ice."—J. D.

This pass was crossed by an English lady in a chaise à porteurs in 1841.

TO OBER-GESTELEN AND BRIEG.

To the Hospice 6 stunden = 16 English miles.

Thence to Ober-Gestelen 3 stunden = about 9 English miles. Ober-Gestelen to Brieg 103 stun35 English miles.

den

=

A much frequented, but rather difficult, bridle-path. It is a good day's journey of 8 hours to reach the Hospice from Meyringen, though a stout pedestrian might push on in one day either to Ober-Gestelen, or across the Furca to Hospital.

It is one of the grandest and most interesting passes across the Alps.

Above Meyringen (p. 85.) the vale of Hasli contracts, and in about 2 miles is crossed by a mound or hill of considerable height, called the Kirchet, which appears at one time to have dammed up the waters of the Aar. At present they force their way through a singularly narrow rent, which cleaves the eminence from top to bottom. The path, quitting for a short time the side of the river, mounts this steep in zigzags, and then descends through a forest, into the retired green valley of Upper Hasli, which is in the form of a basin, surrounded by hills, and was once probably a lake. Two valleys open out into it; on the W. that of Urbach, on the E. that of Gadmen, up which runs the path leading by the pass of the Susten (Route 32.) to Wasen. On the rt. lies the village Im- Grund, and, crossing the Aar, another village, called Im-Hof, situated between it and the Gadmen river, is passed. From Im

Hof a path branches off to Engelberg over the Joch pass (Route 33.) Another ravine is succeeded by a second enlargement of the valley called ImBoden. Higher up is "the small and lonely village" of

3 Guttanen, where there is an inn, containing good beds; but the best place for a mid-day halt to rest the mules is the chalet of

14 The Handek, about 1 hour's walk beyond Guttanen. It can furnish a bed upon an emergency, and tolerable provisions, good coffee, &c. It stands at the distance of a few yards from the Falls of the Aar, perhaps the finest cataract in Switzerland, from its height (more than 200 feet), the quantity and rush of water, the gloom of the gorge into which it precipitates itself, and the wild character of the rocky solitude around it. It is also remarkably easy of access, so that the traveller may form a full estimate of its grandeur; surveying it, first, from below, through the vista of black rocks into which it plunges, and afterwards from above, stretching his neck over the brow of the precipice from which the river takes its leap, and watching it (if his nerves be steady) till it is lost in the spray of the dark abyss below.

The view from this point, not more than 5 or 6 feet above the fall, which few will hesitate to call the best, is exceedingly impressive and stimulating. So plentiful is the rush of water that it reaches more than half way down in one unbroken glassy sheet before it is tossed into white foam; and, what adds to its beauty, is, that another stream (the Erlenbach), pouring in from the right at this very spot, takes precisely the same leap, mingling its tributary waters midway with the more powerful column of the Aar.

The dark forest of fir through which the route has wound for a considerable distance, now dwindles away into a few dwarf bushes, and disappears entirely a little above Handek.

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tion of rank grass, rhododendron, and lichen; and even this partial covering disappears prematurely, in some places being abraided and peeled off. There is a spot about 2 miles above Handek, called Höllenplatte, where the path crosses the bed of an ancient glacier which, in former times, extending thus far down the valley, has ground smooth and polished by its weight and friction, the surface of the sloping and convex granite rock, leaving, here and there upon the surface, grooves, or furrows, which may be compared to the scratches made by a diamond upon glass. This polished rock extends for a space of nearly a quarter of a mile. It is prudent to dismount here, and cross this bad bit of road on foot, since the path runs by the edge of the precipice, and the surface of the rock, though chiselled into grooves, to secure a footing for the horses, is very slippery. A single false step might be fatal to man and beast, precipitating both into the gulph below: and the slight wooden rail, which is swept away almost every winter, would afford but little protection. The valley of the Aar, up which the narrow path is carried, looks stern and forbidding from its sterility, and the threatening cliffs of granite which overhang it. The Aar is crossed several times by dizzy bridges of a single arch, formed of granite slabs without a parapet. There is but one human habitation between Handek and the Hospice, the miserable chalet of the Räterisboden, or Roderichsboden, where the ravine expands once more into a basin-shaped hollow, probably once a lake bed, with a marshy bottom, affording scanty herbage for a few goats. A little above this the path quits the Aar, which rises in the Aar-glacier, about a mile higher up on the rt., and ascending a glen, strewed with shattered rocks, reaches

2 The Hospice of the Grimsel, an inn

not

to shelter those who travel from necessity, and afford a gratuitous aid to the poor; but now daily occupied during the summer months by travellers for pleasure, sometimes to the number of 80 or 90 at once, who pay for their accommodation as in any other inn, and sit down at a table d'hôte usually about 7 o'clock in the evening: the fare is plain, not delicate, but the charges are high. It is a massy building of rough masonry, designed to resist a weight of snow, and with few windows to admit the cold. It contains about 40 beds, and affords such homely fare as may reasonably be expected in a spot more than 7000 feet above the sea, and removed by many miles from any other human dwelling. It is occupied by the innkeeper, who rents it from March to November. One servant passes the winter in the house, with a sufficient provision to last out the time of his banishment, and two dogs, to detect the approach of wanderers, for even in the depth of winter the hospice is resorted to by traders from Hasli and the Vallais, who exchange the cheese of the one valley for the wine and spirits of the other. Its situation is as dreary as can be conceived in a rocky hollow, about 1000 feet below the summit of the pass, surrounded by soaring peaks and steep precipices. The rocks around are bare and broken, scarcely varied by patches of snow, which never melt even in summer, and by strips of grass and green moss, which shoot up between the crevices, and are eagerly browsed by a flock of goats. A considerable supply of peat is dug from a bog within a few yards of the door. In the bottom of this naked basin, close to the house, is a black tarn, or lake, in which no fish live. Although entirely covered with deep snow in winter, it is said never to be frozen, as it is supplied from a warm spring. Beyond it lies a small pasturage, capable of supporting,