18 Route 6. Baths of Schintznach where Pestalozzi, the teacher, died, and is buried. It takes in at a single glance the whole Swiss patrimony of the Habsburgs-an estate far more limited than that of many a British peer from which Rudolph was called to wield the sceptre of Charlemagne. The House of Austria were deprived of their Swiss territories by papal ban, 150 years after Rudolph's elevation; but it is believed that the ruin has again become the property of the Austrian Emperor by purchase. Below the castle, at the foot of the Wülpelsberg, and about 3 miles from Brugg, lie the Baths of Schintznach, also called Habsburger Bad, the most frequented watering-place in Switzerland. The principal buildings are the Great Inn (Grosser Gasthof) and the Bath-house, in a semicircular form: "There are six apartments, with large sitting-rooms, and 360 beds. The table d'hôte saloon is 180 Fr. ft. long, and 500 persons frequently sit down to dinner together in the season. There are 160 baths all exactly alike, lined with Dutch tiles. Each visitor has his own bath for the time he remains, and there is an admirable contrivance for ventilating it. What pleased us most in this vast establishment was the attention which is paid to the wants of the poor. There is accommodation for 90 persons both in baths and beds, and they are provided with these, as well as with medical attendance, free of all expense. funds, likewise, for their maintenance, which are increased by a poor-box carried round every Sunday by a lady and gentleman at the table-d'hôte. There are two resident physicians. The water is 60° Fahr. ; it tastes strong of sulphur, Epsom and Glauber salts, by no means a palatable draught. The visitors are chiefly French, very few English; hence, though provisions are dear in this country, the table-d'hôte costs only 3 fr." L. Fm. The waters are efficacious There are in cutaneous disorders, in rheumatism and gout, and for wounds. Schintznach owes little to nature except its waters. Some pretty walks have been made near the houses, and winding paths, under the shade of trees, lead up the hill to Habsburg. BASLE TO ZURICH - (continued). On quitting Brugg, the road passes the convent of Königsfelden, traversing Oberdorf (near which are scanty remains of a Roman amphitheatre), and skirts on the 1. the village of Windisch (p. 16.), before it crosses the river Reuss. It then proceeds up the 1. bank of the Limmat, to 2. Baden (Inn: Waage (Balances) tolerable hotel and civil landlady; — will suit those who do not wish to cross the water to the baths where the best hotels are.-L. de S. This ancient walled town, of 1800 inhabitants, is squeezed within a narrow defile on the 1. bank of the Limmat, here crossed by a wooden bridge. The ruins of the Castle, nearly as large as the place itself, overlook it from a rocky eminence. It was anciently the strong-hold of the Austrian princes, and their residence while Switzerland belonged to them. Here were planned the expeditions against the Swiss, which were frustrated at Morgarten and Sempach. At length when the Pope, in 1415, excommunicated the Archduke Frederick, the Swiss took it and burnt it. In the Rathhaus of Baden the preliminaries preceding the treaty of peace which terminated the war of Succession, were arranged by Prince Eugene on the part of Austria, and by Marshal Villars for France, in 1712. Baden, like its namesakes in Ba den and Austria, was frequented on account of its mineral waters by the Romans, who called it Therma Helvetica. It was sacked and destroyed by Cocina. The Baths (Inns: Stadthof, best; Route 6. The Baths. 7. Schaffhausen. 7. waters are warm and sulphureous, having a temperature of 38 Reaum., and are good for rheumatism, &c. The Great Baths, on the 1. bank of the river, are frequented by the upper classes those on the opposite side by the lower orders. The Swiss Baden, though not equal in beauty to its namesakes in other parts of Europe, has considerable attractions in the country around it, which is particularly interesting to the geologist, as affording proofs of the great convulsion of nature, by which the Limmat and other rivers descending from the Alps forced their way through the opposing barrier of the Jura, to join the Rhine and the sea. The rocky heights on each side of the river the one surmounted by the ruined castle, the other partly covered by vineyards form the portal through which this great eruption of waters was poured out. Before this gorge was formed, Baden and the country above it must have been a vast lake. Agreeable walks are made for invalids by the side of the Limmat, and many pleasant excursions may be made in the country around the most interesting being that described above, to Schintznach (8 miles), by Windisch, Königsfelden, and Habsburg. Roman relics are constantly discovered in this district. Gambling appears to have been a prevailing vice among the visitors to the baths, and the Roman Legions stationed here, since a neighbouring field has obtained the name of Dice Meadow (Wurfel Wiese), from the quantity of dice dug up in it. The pleasantest road to Zurich from Baden is said to be that along 19 the rt. bank of the Limmat. It passes at the distance of about two miles the convent of Wettingen, a vast palatial building with many courts, gardens, &c. surrounded by a high wall, situated in an angle formed by a bend of the river, suppressed by the council of the Canton. Its church, founded in 1227, contains tombs of some early counts of Habsburg and Kyburg, painted glass, carved stalls, &c. The route taken by the diligence follows the 1. bank of the Limmat to 21 Dietikon. Near this village the French, under Massena, crossed the river, Sept. 24, 1799,- a masterly movement, which led to the defeat of the Russians and the capture of Zurich. 1 ZURICH. In Route 8. ROUTE 7. SCHAFFHAUSEN TO CONSTANCE. SCHAFFHAUSEN. (Inns: Hotel Weber, a new establishment 1 mile outside the town, near the entrance from the side of Germany, commanding a view of the Rhine fall and Alps, 80 rooms; table d'hôte at 1 and 5; omnibus to meet the steamers and coaches. Faucon. Couronne, good and clean. Lion, small, but comfortable. There is an inn close to the Rhine fall, about 2 miles out of the town, not very good.) There is a Swiss Extra-post house here, where horses are supplied for the first stage on the roads to Constance and Bâle. Schaffhausen, a town of 7500 inhabitants, stands on the rt. bank of the Rhine, just above the spot where the rapids and falls commence, which render that river unnavigable as far as Basle. It was originally a landingplace and magazine, at which the portage of goods began and ended, and owes its origin and name to the boat or skiff houses, here erected. It is distinguished above almost every other town in Switzerland by the 20 Route 7.-Schaffhausen-Minster - Falls of the Rhine. The Town Library contains the collection of books of the celebrated Swiss historian Müller, who was born here. antique architecture of its houses, | 1799, and is replaced by one of the whose fronts and projecting oriel most ordinary construction. A model windows are decorated with carvings of the original may be seen in the and stucco work. Many of them were town library; the architect was a originally entirely covered externally carpenter from Appenzell, named with fresco paintings, but of these Grubenman. there are now few examples; the house called Zum Ritter, nearly opposite the Couronne, is one of the most remarkable of those that remain. The houses or halls of the ancient Guilds, or Zünfts, are worthy of attention on account of their quaint inscriptions and allusive ornaments. The wall and turreted gateways of the town have been preserved, and furnish very picturesque subjects for the pencil. It is almost exclusively on account of its vicinity to the celebrated Falls of the Rhine that Schaffhausen is visited. It has little resort, except from the passage of travellers, it being one of the portals of Switzerland, and there is little within the town to deserve notice. On the height above it rises the curious and perfect feudal castle called Unnoth or Munnoth. Its towers have walls of great thickness (18 feet), said to be of Roman (?) construction; the building, however, was not finished in its present state till 1564. It is provided with bomb-proof casemates, capable of sheltering many hundred persons. Many subterranean passages lead from it. 4. The Minster-originally the Abbey of All Saints - was founded 1052. It is a building in the Romanesque, or round arched style, remarkable for its antiquity, the solidity of its construction, and as exhibiting an unaltered specimen of that style. The arches of the nave are supported by single circular columns, and those in the centre of the transept by square piers of the most massive kind. The cloister attached to the church contains a profusion of monuments of the magistrates and patrician families. The celebrated wooden bridge over the Rhine, of a single arch, 365 feet in span, was burnt by the French in Diligences go daily hence to Zurich and Offenburg (on the road to Strasburg and Frankfurt); to Constance; to Berne (by Sursach, Brugg, and Schintznach); to Stuttgart, and to Ulm and Augsburg. A steamer runs daily between Schaffhausen and Constance. THE FALLS OF THE RHINE. The Falls are about 3 miles below Schaffhausen; the road to Zurich passes within a quarter of a mile of them. At the village of Neuhausen, 10 minutes' walk from the fall, there is a small inn, Zum Rheinfall: charges-beds 2 fr.; dinners 3 fr. ; breakfast 1 f. These quarters are convenient for those who would enjoy the aspect of the cataract at various hours, at sunrise and by moonlight. It will take at least 2 hours to see the falls thoroughly and return to Neuhausen, including the time occupied in crossing and re-crossing the river. Close to the fall is an iron furnace; the wheels of the hammers are turned by the fall, and the draught caused by the rush of the waters supplies the place of bellows. The best mode of visiting the falls from Schaffhausen is to hire a boat from thence (costs 48 kreutz.), and descend the river, which already forms a succession of rapids, by no means dangerous under the guidance of a boatman accustomed to the river. When the increased celerity of the current, and the audible roar announce that the skiff is approaching the falls, the steersman makes for the 1. bank, and lands his passengers under the Route 7.- Schaffhausen to Constance Randegg. picturesque castle of Lauffen, situated on a high rock overlooking the fall, within the Canton of Zurich. It is occupied and rented by an artist who speaks English, and charges 1 franc admission for each person. The advantage of approaching the fall on this side is, that nothing is seen of it until it is at once presented in its most magnificent point of view, from the little pavilion perched on the edge of the cliff immediately above it. Its appearance from the opposite side of the river is tame in comparison, and the first impression from thence, made by the finest cataract in Europe, will most probably prove disappointing. Several flights of very rude and slippery wooden steps conduct from this pavilion to a projecting stage, or rude balcony, of stout timbers, thrown out, like the bowsprit of a ship, from the vertical cliff to within a few feet of the fall. It actually overhangs the roaring shoot, and, though perfectly secure, seems to tremble under the impulse of the water. Here, covered with the spray, the traveller may enjoy the full grandeur of this hell of waters; and it is only by this close proximity, amidst the tremendous roar and the uninterrupted rush of the river, passing with the swiftness of an arrow above his head and beneath his feet, that a true notion can be formed of the stupendous nature of this cataract. The best time for seeing the fall is about 8 in the morning, when the iris floats within the spray (provided the sun shines), and by moonlight. The river is usually most full in the month of July. The Rhine, above the fall, is about 300 feet broad; the height of the fall is reduced to 70 feet. Two isolated pillars of rock standing in the middle of the stream divide the fall into 3 shoots. Seen from behind, these pinnacles appear eaten away by the constant friction of the water, and tottering to their fall; indeed, as the rock is soft, the waste of it within the 21 memory of man must be considerable. The river, after its leap, forms a large semicircular bay, as it were to rest itself; the sides of which are perpetually chafed by the heaving billows. Here, in front of the fall, on the rt. bank, stands the Castle of Wörth, a square tower, containing a camera obscura, which shows the fall in another and a very singular point of view. From this tower to the foot of the rock on which the castle of Lauffen stands, several ferry-boats ply, to convey visitors across, charging 4 batz each. The boats are much tossed about in their passage, but sometimes approach the base of the pinnacles above mentioned without risk, provided they keep clear of the eddies. Schaffhausen to Constance. 9 stunden = 29 English miles. A diligence goes daily, along the S. or Swiss bank of the Rhine, in 5. hours. A steamer goes daily, ascending the Rhine to Constance in 6 hours against the current: descending in 3 hours. It does not take carriages. The journey may be made more expeditiously by following the road through Baden, on the N. side of the Rhine, than along the Swiss side of the river, because it is provided with post-horses. 22 Route 7.- St. George's Abbey The Quarries. lections of these insects may be bought at Singen, and also at Radolfszell. The Rhine here, suddenly contracted from a lake to a river, is crossed by a wooden bridge, in order to reach 3 Constance. (In the next page.) The Swiss Road runs along the 1. bank of the Rhine, past the Nunneries of Paradies and Katherinethal, the former belonging to the order of St. Clara, the latter of St. Dominic; but the revenues and the number of sisters in both are now much reduced. The Austrian army under the Archduke Charles crossed the Rhine at Paradies 1799. 13 Diessenhofen. 2 Stein-(Inns: Schwan; Krone) -a town of 1270 inhabitants, on the rt. bank of the Rhine, belonging to Schaffhausen, united by a wooden bridge with a suburb on the 1. bank. The Abbey of St. George is a very ancient ecclesiastical foundation. The owners of the ruined castle of Hohenklingen, situated on the rocky height, were originally the feudal seigneurs of the town, but the citizens obtained independence from their masters by purchase. Three miles E. of Stein, at a height of between 500 and 600 feet above the Rhine, are situated the Quarries of Ehningen, remarkable for the vast abundance of fossil remains of terrestrial and fresh-water animals found in them, including mammalia, birds, reptiles, fishes, shells, insects, and plants, some of them identical with species now living. The most curious discovery is that of the perfect skeleton of a fossil fox, made by Mr. Murchison; a very large tortoise had previously been brought to light. The beds of rock in which the quarries are worked consist of marls, limestones, shales, and building-stone. They lie immediately above the formation called Molasse, and differ in their organic contents from all other fresh-water formations hitherto discovered. Above Stein the Rhine expands into a lake called Untersee (lower lake), connected again by the Rhine at its upper extremity with the larger Lake of Constance. In the midst of it is the pretty island Reichenau near Stein a smaller island (Werd) is passed. Feldbach, also a nunnery, belonging to sisters of the Cistercian order, is passed before reaching 2 Steckborn. Itznang, a small village on the opposite shore of the lake, within the territory of Baden, is the birth-place of Mesmer, the inventor of animal magnetism. Near the village of Berlingen the pretty château of the Duchess of Dino appears, and a little further that of Arenaberg, once the residence of the late Duchess of St. Leu (Hortense, ex-Queen of Holland), and of her son Prince Louis, before he attempted his futile revolution at Strassburg, and his descent upon Boulogne. 1 Ermatingen. The island of Reichenau formerly belonged to the rich Benedictine Abbey situated on it, founded 724, and sequestrated 1799. The estates belonging to it were so numerous and extensive, that it is said the Abbot, on his way to Rome, need not sleep a night out of his own domains. Within the Minster Church (founded 806) Charles the Fat is buried; he died The church poshere in want 888. sesses, among its treasures, one of the waterpots used at the marriage of Cana! an emerald, weighing 281b., presented by Charlemagne, now ascertained to be glass, &c. The Castle of Gottlieben, on the I. of the road, built by the Bishops of Constance 1250, on the Rhine, at the point where it enters the Untersee, is remarkable for having been the prison of John Huss and Jerome of Prague, who were confined within its dungeons by order of the Emperor Sigismund and Pope John XXIII, |