GENEVA. Lake Leman woos me with its crystal face, The mirror where the stars and mountains view Its clear depth yields of their far height and hue. BYRON. THE city of Geneva claims the distinction of high antiquity. It is frequently mentioned by the name it now bears in the Commentaries of Julius Cæsar. It became a republic in the year 1535, and by degrees acquired the form of government which is maintained to the present day. Its earlier history, however, is involved in unusual obscurity; and notwithstanding the ingenious speculations of many who have endeavoured to reconcile the conflicting testimony of ancient writers, none have hitherto succeeded in removing the veil with which tradition and ignorance have so long obscured it. These tenebræ seculorum will be a sufficient excuse for not pursuing such an inquiry, more especially as Geneva presents us with subjects far more interesting than the investigation of remote tradition. The city is built at the head of the Leman lake, which is considered the finest piece of water in Europe. The waters abound with fish, and are famous for trout, which are often found of a prodigious size. At the opposite end the Rhone falls into the lake, which at some distance separates into two rapid streams, forming a small island in B the town, and then re-uniting pursues its course into France. The lake is bordered on one side by the Pays de Vaud, a country which was formerly conquered by the Canton of Bern from the Dukes of Savoy. This may, indeed, be considered one of the most enchanting spots in Europe. As far as the eye can reach it is studded with towns, hamlets, gardens, and vineyards, and is bounded by the hills of Mount Jura. The Savoy side has a wilder and more romantic appearance, presenting a pleasing contrast to the Pays de Vaud. Huge mountains and tremendous precipices meet the eye on all sides, rising behind each other in every wild and fantastic form with which the imagination may choose to invest them. On the one side Nature is displayed in her most sublime and awful form, while on the other she exhibits her gayest and most attractive attire. Thus, by a happy combination of the softest imagery with the grander and more majestic scenery, the neighbourhood of Geneva abounds with objects of surpassing interest. The hand of Nature has indeed marked the scene as one of her happiest labours. Every material is here combined that the poet or the painter could desire to excite the imagination or to stimulate a lingering fancy. The silver lake, which extends like a huge mirror from shore to shore, reflecting from its bright and polished surface the numberless beauties that adorn its banks, the lofty mountains that rear on every side their majestic heads, some clothed with eternal snows, and others delighting the eye with freshness and verdure, and the city itself, embosomed in its woods and waters, present a scene which, for harmonious combination and variety of imagery, must stand unrivalled, even where beauty and sublimity most predominate. The glowing language of Rousseau and the lofty verse of Byron have been, not unworthily, employed in throwing round these romantic and favoured regions a halo of which neither time nor circumstance can ever deprive them. Moore too thus beautifully describes his feelings on visiting the lake and valley for the first time at sunset. 'Twas at this instant-while there glow'd The valley burst upon my sight! The ramparts of a Godhead's dwelling. * * No, never shall I lose the trace Of what I've felt in this bright place; This mighty scene again I'll seek, At this same calm and glowing hour, That Nature ever rear❜d to Thee, And feel my immortality! Beyond the beauty and romance of its situation, the city of Geneva has nothing in itself to merit particular notice. Few European towns of its size and importance are so sparingly decorated with public monuments. The upper part, which rises on a gentle acclivity, is exceedingly picturesque. The houses are of stone, and wellconstructed. But the lower part offers rather an unplea neva. sant contrast. The houses are many stories high, and from their appearance would seem to have been built for ages. They have heavy, projecting roofs, and on each side of the streets are erected cumbersome wooden arcades, under which the trading classes exhibit their wares and merchandize. In the water which divides the town there are also erected many heavy and unseemly buildings, apparently for the sole use of the washerwomen of GeIndeed, this portion of the city being chiefly inhabited by the mercantile part of the population, is not very likely to meet with speedy improvement, since expense on the one hand and prejudice on the other are most effectual securities for the adherence of the citizens to the wisdom of their ancestors. The public walks and the ramparts are, however, replete with interest. Thence the eye of the tourist will be delighted with the brilliant succession of romantic villas, which rise like fairy mansions along the margin of the lake, and, combined with the scenes around, present a series of views as beautiful as they are varied. The lake itself perhaps partakes more of softness than of grandeur, and the pleasure of gliding over its waters, when the setting sun casts a mellowed light over the vivid and glowing scenery around, would be the summit of such enjoyment, did not the frequency of those fogs or vapours, which are the bane of this part of Switzerland, too often intervene and involve the glorious scene in mist and obscurity. The attachment of the Genevese to the pleasures of society renders their town a desirable residence to strangers. As in France, it is chiefly the evening that is devoted to society and conversation. The description which M. Si |