320 FOUNTAIN OF ELISHA. the occasion of his last approach to Jerusalem, when the time of his offering up was at hand. It was there that he declared, concerning the eager and enquiring Zaccheus," This day is salvation come to this house, forasmuch as he also is a son of Abraham: for the Son of Man is come to seek and to save that which is lost." The distance of Jericho from the River Jordan, is computed at about seven English miles. Lying across a plain, over which the eye glances rapidly, and seen in an exceedingly clear atmosphere, the distance appears less. Jericho is distant from Jerusalem nearly nineteen English miles, by a mountainous and difficult road, of which I shall have occasion by and by to speak. Having been for some hours exposed to the heat of the morning sun, it was delightful to hear the sound of running water, amidst some overhanging trees of considerable growth. We hoped our servants and Arabs were not far distant. Suddenly we took a turn in the road—and there, stretched along in the shade, lay the whole party whom we had sent in advance from the Dead Sea. Our breakfast, consisting of coarse bread, figs, honey and coffee, was spread for us under the deep shadow of a noble nabbukh tree, impervious to the sun, while close at hand, and at our very feet, as we reclined, ran a rapid stream, as clear as crystal, fringed with water-cresses, and flowing immediately from Ayún es Sultan-the fountain of Elisha. I never shall cease to remember that precious-precious stream. We drank copiously of its cool, sweet waters; and I could have said-here let me rest all the day. Its watercresses were delicious. The Arabs do not seem to understand the value of them. It was a charming spot in which we took our morning rest and refreshment, embosomed in thick, lofty trees, of various kinds, such as pomegranates, figs, and nabbukhs. After breakfast, we went forth to explore the fountain of Elisha—the “Diamond of the Desert," as it was called in the days of the Crusaders. We found it distant between two and Luke xix. 1-11. FOUNTAIN OF ELISHA. 321 three hundred yards, bubbling up from the bed of the rock, over which it flowed. It had the appearance of boiling water, and flowed with great force and rapidity. It is a seclu ded nook, and overhung by broad-leaved fig-trees and nabbukhs and here, too, we found specimens of what I believe were accounted the "Apples of Sodom," none of which I had, however, seen at any spot nearer to the Dead Sea. They were as yellow as gold; and varying in size, from that of a hazel nut to that of a very large walnut. They grew upon a harsh prickly stem. It was a solemn thought, that the now sweet fountain of Elisha, once "naught," had been the subject of miraculous working. The prophet had been there: the power of God had been there too, working through him. "The men of the city (Jericho) said unto Elisha, Behold, I pray thee, the situation of this city is pleasant, as my lord seeth; but the water is naught, and the ground barren. And he said, Bring me a new cruse, and put salt therein. And they brought it to him. And he went forth unto the spring of the waters, and cast the salt in there, and said, Thus saith the Lord, I have healed these waters: there shall not be from thence any more death or barren land. So the waters were healed unto this day, according to the saying of Elisha, which he spake."* The waters were indeed healed-they were sweet and delicious. The power of the miracle has not passed away. At twelve o'clock we renewed our march towards Jerusalem, by the ancient road trodden by the feet of our adorable Redeemer. I thought of the parable of the good Samaritan: —“A certain man went down from Jerusalem to Jericho, and fell among thieves," &c.; and certainly it still retains the wild aspect of a scene of rapine and murder. It is solitary, secluded and savage. Indeed, even in the present day, it is an exceedingly dangerous road; and the traveller who omits to take with him a sufficient, vigilant, and well-armed escort, must expect to be plundered, even at noonday. While we were on our way to Jerusalem, a small body of Arabs came down upon * 3 Kings ii. 19-22. 322 ROAD BETWEEN JERUSALEM AND JERICHO. us, whose appearance and manner left no doubt that had our party been weaker than theirs, we should have been sufferers. They were a half-famished, hungry-looking set, and clad in a few rags, with their matchlock guns in their hands. They seemed at first to show us their teeth-but dared not do more than that, as we could have overpowered them at the onset. A few words were exchanged as we passed on steadily, just keeping watch that they made no reinforcement from the surrounding mountains. The route from Jericho to Jerusalem is, in many places, fatiguingly steep and difficult; and so shut in by mountain heights and savage crags, that scarcely any breeze can reach the traveller; and when, as in our case, the vertical sun sends down his beams into the narrow passes, the heat reflected from the chalky sides of the ravine, scorches like a furnace. I felt the effect of it on the skin of my face for a long while after; but we experienced no real or lasting injury. It was by far the most trying part of our expedition, and occupied six hours. By the mercy of God we reached Jerusalem in perfect safety, crossing the Mount of Olives in our way, and re-entering the city by the gate of St. Stephen. I dwell upon the recollection of this expedition with mingled feelings of delight and gratitude. Not one danger overtook us not one untoward circumstance happened; and there is deposited in my mind, a vivid picture-bright—beautiful, solemn that can never pass away. Would that I could communicate it, with all its wonderful reality, to the mind of my attentive reader-but I cannot. I have done what I could. CHAPTER IX. JERUSALEM, SYCHAR, NAZARETH, &c. My last Sabbath in Jerusalem-Preparations for Departure-Departure from Jerusalem-Gibeon-Beeri (Beeroth)-Bethel-Shiloh-Bir el Lebyan-Mountains of Ephraim-The Ground bought by Jacob, of the Sons of Hamor-Jacob's WellMounts Ebal and Gerizim-Joseph's Tomb-Sychar (Nablous)-Bir Sharath-Samaria-Sebaste-Road to Nazareth-Embarrassment-Jenin-Plain of Esdraelon -Nazareth-Ancient Well of Nazareth-Mount Tabor-Approach to the Sea of Galilee-Tiberias-The Sea of Galilee-Cana of Galilee-Scripture Imagery-Adventure-Journey towards Mount Carmel-Amusing Misapprehension-River Kishon-Mount Carmel-Latin Convent on Mount Carmel-Schools of the Prophets -Acre-Journey towards Tyre and Sidon-Scorpions-Cape Blanco-Scale Tyriorum-Ras-el-Ayun-Tyre-Sarepta-Sidon-Naby Younes-Albanian Soldiers, etc.-Arrival at Beyrout-Beyrout-Lebanon-The Tribes of Lebanon-Route to Baalbec-The Bekaa--Nabey Noah-Nabey Sheeth-Baalbec-Deir el Akhmar -Ayun el Teene-Ascent of Lebanon-The Cedars of Lebanon-Return to Beyrout-Christian Education in Syria-Ancient Church of Syria. JERUSALEM had become my home. It was with unspeakable delight that I again traversed the Mount of Olives, and beheld the Holy City lying before me, bathed in the rich tintings of the evening sun. When shall the Sun of Righteousness again rise upon her, with healing in His wings? We passed slowly down the descent-pausing a moment at Gethsemane, and marking the spot, not far distant, where they stoned the first Christian martyr-Stephen, calling upon God, and saying, "Lord Jesus, receive my spirit." The blood of the martyr still cries from the ground. Jerusalem cannot now hear the cry-her ears are closed. There is a day coming in which it will break forth upon her awakened sense with a voice of thunder. It was a time of delightful repose which we passed, immediately after our return, within the cool walls of our conventhome, awaiting the dawn of the coming Sabbath. My last Sabbath in Jerusalem! There was a melan 824 MY LAST SABBATH IN JERUSALEM. choly feeling mingled in the joy with which I welcomed the light of that holy day. Earthly Sabbaths must have an end, but I looked forward in humble and hopeful anticipation to the eternal" Sabbath-keeping" of the people of God.* I was permitted once more to worship on Mount Zion. It was a season of serenity and peace. The evening was spent, as usual, with the good Bishop and his family, in religious exer cises and profitable conversation. The Bishop solemnly laid it in charge upon us that we should " pray for the peace of Jerusalem," and reminded us that they shall prosper who love her.† Oh that the church may be thoroughly awakened to the claims of Jerusalem, and that her heart may ere long yearn over the scattered thousands of Israel! I thank God that our own national church has made her stand. I look to Jerusalem now, with many a bright hope glowing in my heart. Does any man say-" Where is the Diocese-where is the Church in Jerusalem?" I turn to the word of prophecy I hang upon the word of promise: I dwell on the immutable sanctity of the covenant; and there I find a fitting answer the answer, not for the men of this world, but for the people of God. When James was consecrated first Bishop of the church in Jerusalem, doubtless there were men ready to say-" Where is the Diocese-where is the Church?" The blindness of heart which then existed, has been perpetuated-is still manifest while we bid men regard the spiritual effort of our beloved church in Jerusalem, and say "This hath God wrought." As the day of our departure from the Holy City was drawing near, I availed myself of every opportunity for visiting again and again the sacred localities of which I have already given a faint description; sometimes prolonging my stay among them till the setting sun gave notice of the closing of the city gates. Between five and six o'clock, in the morning of the fifth of July, I made my last visit to the Garden of *Heb. iv. 9. There remaineth therefore a rest (raßßarioμòs—a sabbathkeeping) to the people of God. ↑ Psalm cxxii. 6. |