point on which we now stood not only was the whole visible, but with a new and most peculiar effect. The distance, together with the dazzling of the countless lights themselves, completely hid the solid material of the edifice, so that what we now beheld was the skeleton framework of a St. Peter's, elaborately constructed of those vivid lines of light!

Until within the last few years there was, on this annual occasion, an interior illumination of the building. A cross of gigantic proportions was suspended from the inside of the great dome, immediately over the high altar, and covered with thousands of brilliant lamps. The gorgeous splendour of the effect thus produced on the gilding and bright coloured mosaics, the strange and fantastic accidents of light and shade among the far-retiring columns, aisles, and arches, together with the imposing pageantry of the Papal procession, moving to and from the high altar, I can in some degree imagine, but was not fortunate enough to witness.

DEPARTURE FROM ROME.

HEN the time drew near which had been fixed for our departure, not even the thought that our steps were now to be turned homewards could altogether prevent a feeling of regret.

I do not think any one ever more intensely enjoyed Rome than I did. The deep interest of the place itself was greatly enhanced by the society of my dear cousins, upon whose affectionate kindness, during those months, I look back with unmingled pleasure.

The endeared friendship of the R-s too, as well as our pleasant intercourse with Lady M and her family,from all these it was sad to sever.

Our arrangements, however, were completed, and the last evening came: it was spent at the Quattro Fontane; dear S and Mr. R walked part of the way home with us, and then farewell was exchanged, and we parted. I may not trust myself to dwell on a parting which has proved our last. That loved one is now in a fairer land than that we have often admired together!

Once more the carriage was at the door, and to our infinite satisfaction, its driver was our good friend Ferdinando! Some weeks previously we had met him in the street, and bade him call at Capo le Case, that we might speak with him of our arrangements for the future. He most gladly agreed to take his chance meanwhile, in Rome, of occasional employment, and so to wait in the hope of renewing his engagement with us; nor were we less pleased than he was. Poor Ferdinando! a shade passed over his gladsome face when I asked for his young wife and little infant. In the curious mixture of French and Italian he usually employed in addressing us, he replied, “Ah Madama, la povera petite e morta-et pour moi -j'aurai bien mieux voulu perdre, sei cavalli!" He seemed to select this as the very strongest, as it certainly was the most professional illustration he could give of the sincerity of his grief.

Well, as I was about to say, we once more settled ourselves and our goods in the old places; each article, ourselves among the number, seeming to find naturally its accustomed corner. The first night was spent at Cività Castellana, in most uncomfortable quarters; a poor inn at best, and now greatly overcrowded. Ferdinando counselled our starting early next morning-if possible before any of the other numerous travellers were astir, with the view of securing better accommodation at our next night's resting-place. By five o'clock then we were off; and very successfully did we keep for a while our first start, the horses being fresh, and we having little luggage compared with many of our competitors on the road. Right merrily were we rattling down a long hill, when lo! in far less time than I can write the words, a collision-a crash-a tremendous jerk, and we were prostrate in a ditch at the side of the road! Not the slightest warning had we of what was coming, nor did I distinctly comprehend what had come, till I found my feet pro

truding through a side window of the carriage, and planted in the mud! W who had been at the side now uppermost, contrived to keep himself from falling on me. One instant sufficed to ascertain that neither of us was hurt, the next to bethink ourselves of investigating our actual position. W scrambled out, and by and by managed to extract me also; and then, what a scene of confusion we looked on! Ferdinando, striking his forehead with his hand, now frantically calling upon a whole calendar of saints to help him, and again beseeching us to tell him we were safe and uninjured-but perfectly bewildered, and unable to tell what he should do first. W advised his catching the horses, which at some distance, with the two front wheels and pole attached to them, were amusing themselves with kicking each other, and trying to get free. Boxes, trunks, carpet-bags, cushions, books, &c. &c.—all, and it seemed far more than all the carriage had contained,—the arrangement of which I had prided myself upon-lay strewed in dire disorder upon the ground. Add to this, fragments of broken glass, splinters of wood, and other evidences of destruction, and we certainly beheld a scene of apparently as hopeless and helpless misfortune as, apart from serious personal injury, could well be conceived! The rain, too, began to fall, and we had not an idea where we were, or in what direction assistance should be sought. There was to be seen the luckless cause of our disaster —a huge waggon dragged by a team of stubborn mules, which had absolutely refused to turn out of the way, in spite of the somewhat tardy endeavours of their drivers. The first result of their unaccommodating obstinacy was, that our wheels were caught by the clumsy projecting axles of the waggon, and the second, what I have described.

Ferdinando was out of sight in pursuit of the horses, the mule-drivers followed him, and we were left in company with

the long-eared delinquents, now quietly feeding by the road side.

Having collected as we best might the smaller articles, Wmade a seat of cloaks and cushions for me, and there I sat in a disconsolate enough plight truly! At length the welcome sound of approaching wheels was to be heard-alas for disappointed hopes!-the vehicle, which shortly made its appearance, was full; and, it is to be presumed, the inmates were unwilling to excite hopes they could not fulfil, for they passed by on the other side. Another few minutes elapsed, and again we eagerly watched the issue of a new approach—a lumbering, heavily-laden machine drew near, and on seeing the debris scattered around, the occupants thereof shouted to an apparently hard-hearted driver to stop, which he was at length reluctantly compelled to do, and two very gentleman-like foreigners leaping out, came forward, followed by a motherly-looking English woman, whose homely voice was as music to my ears. Each most kindly proffered their services, earnestly desiring to know what they could do to help us. I thankfully accepted the place in the carriage offered me by one of the gentlemen, who himself walked forward to Narni, which, as we learnt, was only three miles off, and was to have been the mid-day resting-place. W remained to look after the wreck of our property, and having pressed the mule-drivers into the service on their return with Ferdinando, got the broken carriage fastened to the waggon, and the trunks piled upon it; and thus, in mournful procession, moved on to Narni. As he walked, W—— had leisure to observe a fresh cause for thankfulness in our merciful preservation. A few hundred yards further on, a steep rocky precipice, unfenced by bank or parapet of any kind, sunk abruptly from the side of the road; and had the accident happened there, it appeared inevitable that we should have been thrown over it.