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scriptions, are on the door of the church. The carved old door of chesnut is cut in several places with crosses. To the left of the inner doors is a small marble fountain of four vases below each other. A silver dove is hovering over the highest, and three are descending from the first, second, and third. A silver cross is attached to the highest. In this fountain is the holy water. The doors are very old and large. On each side of the great aisle are five pillars, with whitened capitals, and Greek crosses. Along the aisle, in a line with the columns, are stalls, fourteen on each side. There are also seats for the bishops and superiors, and reading desks. From the roof are suspended thirty-four lamps and lustres, mostly of silver. Near the screen are two huge candelabras, supported on three lions. From the centre rises an enormous wax candle, six feet high, and four or five inches in diameter, surrounded by twelve lesser luminaries. This is probably an emblem of Christ and the Apostles. The screen is formed of eight gilded columns on a basement, united by pictures, in the Greek style, of Christ, and the Virgin. Over it is a great crucifixion, reaching to the roof. Christ is painted on a gilded cross, highly worked. At his side, in a rich gold frame, is the Virgin. The centre door, which bears the date 1612, reaching half way up the door-way. presents figures of Moses and Aaron, the latter with his rod budding, and a censer. They are

both dressed as Greek bishops, as are also the various figures of Christ. It is gilded all over : small pictures are hung at each pillar. The principal altar is a canopy, supported by four pillars, inlaid with shells and mother of pearl. There are on it six crosses, five crucifixions, eight virgins, six circles, and one dead Christ. The semicircular recess behind is hung round with two dozen small pictures of the Virgin and Christ. The mosaic of the semicircular recess has the

appearance of great antiquity. It represents the transfiguration: Christ in the centre in an oval. Each figure has its name. Peter, James, and Moses on the left; John, and Elias, on the right.

We paid to the convent, in all, twenty-two dollars. The Arabs disputed fiercely for an hour, chiefly about the tent. Having supplied ourselves with bread, water, and aqua-vitæ, we set out from the convent at eight, A. M. We crossed over the great plain below Horeb, and entered the pass, and at eleven A. M., we rested under a rock to the right, immediately after quitting the pass. We shewed the Arabs the manna which we had got at the convent. They said it was genuine, and that manna is often found in the morning, below the trees. They boil it with a little water, to divest it of the sand. The sand sinks to the bottom.

We found the Arabs very serviceable. They pitched our tents, made the fires, assisted in cook

CONDUCT OF THE ARABS.-INSCRIPTIONS. 201

ing, &c. Morning and evening they expect coffee, and at times bread, biscuits, &c. If well treated, they do well. They are full of protestations. Having started at half past three, we halted near some water, at ten minutes after seven. Here we met one of our Arabs, Mohammed, who, wishing to remain in the country, had brought his brother to take his place. He also brought a kid as a present, and with many salaams departed.

On the 21st we set out early in order to see the natural reservoir, where water is found after rain. After clambering up rocks, we came to a turn to the right, which shewed us a single palm, and a wild fig tree. Beside the fig tree was a small basin, about ten feet by half the breadth, formed in the rock, and partly filled with water. On a higher level, a few feet beyond, was a reservoir about twenty feet each way, which was filled with water. A precipice is immediately over it, and on each side, and with the two trees forms a very picturesque appearance. We ate some of the wild figs, which were good, but very small, about the size of a cherry. We did not get off till half past six, and at half past ten we stopped under the shade. We started at a quarter to four, and should have arrived at Sarabeet el Khaddam at half past six, but that we stopped on the road to examine inscriptions.

These inscriptions are found on the rocks to the right, near Sarabeet el Khaddam. The first is by

itself, at a place where, apparently, an attempt has been made to find a mine. The others, with about twenty more, are on some great detached rocks at a turn in the valley. On crossing over, we found the tent pitched up the valley, which lies under Sarabeet.

23rd. We went up early to the stones bearing hieroglyphics, on the top of the hill, about three quarters of an hour's walk. The ascent is steep, and over crags and rocks. We remained till night examining the stones.

To the right is a small valley running up. This we followed till we came to two or three trees of the prickly acacia. Further on were rocks, which we climbed, and at length, under a steep rocky shelve, found a well dried up, and a wooden bowl beside it.

24th. At half-past five we left, and at seven arrived at a well, where we were obliged to stop till a quarter to four. Moussa found a man who procured us fresh rain water, from a secret place in the mountains. We filled our skins. The well is pretty enough. From fifteen to twenty palmtrees are near it. The valley is broad, and the hills low. About eleven, a hot wind came on, and continued to blow till half-past ten at night. We left at a quarter to four, and went on till halfpast six; then rested half an hour, and continued on till eleven, stopping in Wady Taib.

The hot wind blew with violence, and ren

dered the travelling disagreeable; the sun and the wind were both in our faces. The air was all along troubled and obscured, particularly at the horizon. At night it became calm, not a breath for intervals, which would be followed by a slight motion of the air; at one time the remains of the hot wind, at another the commencement of the cold.

We started at a quarter past five; stopped at Gharandel at five, stopped again at a quarter to eight till nine; then went on till half-past ten. At halfpast five we started, and arrived at Aina Moussa at half-past two. Both these days, the winds were insufferably hot; the second day worse than the first, and the third than the second.