Cairo for the same purpose as ourselves, to visit Palestine; but, having no firman, and hearing that the plague was then raging at Jerusalem, they were induced to defer their journey, till political affairs should assume a more settled aspect, and the plague be in some degree abated. Thus were we detained in Cairo for more than six weeks, without any appearance of the practicability of our design. Six or seven other English travellers were at the same time in that city, some of whom had visited Mount Sinai; and, from their description, from the interest attached to those different parts of the desert of Arabia Petræa, so celebrated in the Exodus, and from the facility afforded us of accomplishing the tour, the whole of which lay within the Pachalic of Egypt, we resolved to undertake the journey, which might easily be accomplished in twenty-five days; hoping that on our return affairs would admit of proceeding with our original intention.

Accordingly we paid a visit to the Superior of the Greek Convent, to obtain a letter of introduction to the Monks of the Convent at Mount Sinai, and also by his means were enabled to enter into an arrangement with the heads of three tribes of Bedouins, through whose districts the route of our journey lay. On our hiring two dromedaries of each tribe, they were willing to accompany us; and, having provided ourselves with skins, for carrying water, a light tent, and a few provisions,

a little rice, flour, coffee, and biscuits, we were prepared for setting out; but delayed so doing for a day or two, in order to witness a concert of Arabic Music, given by an English traveller, now resident in Cairo.

185

CHAPTER XVI.

Concert at Cairo-Departure for Mount Sinai-The Springs of Moses-Wady-Feran-Arab Welcome-Quarrel between Two Arabs-The Convent-Chapel of St. Helena-Plain below Horeb -Inscriptions near Sarabeit-El-Khaddam-Hot Winds.

186 TURKISH CONCERT.-DEPARTURE FROM CAIRO.

the East. The manner of gathering this fruit, not being generally known to English readers, a representation of it is here given.

WE had been induced to defer our departure, in order to be present at a Turkish concert, given by Mr. On going there, after sunset, we found a divan of from twenty-five to thirty people, Turks and Europeans. After an hour's smoking, the company removed to the garden, where many other Turks were dispersed in groups. The garden was illuminated with coloured lamps. The music sounded strangely indeed to an European ear; yet no amateur in the pit of San Carlo ever experienced greater delight than did the Arabs, while listening to the wild plaintive strains of their national music, which, in the peculiar character of its melody, may be in some degree compared with the Irish. Such is the fondness of the Arabs for this music, that sometimes their pipes fell neglected to the ground, or were suffered to go out, while they sat wrapt in extacy, exclaiming Mashallahtaib-taib! and many remained till morning. As usual among the Turks, supper was eaten with the fingers. A sheep had been roasted entire for the occasion.

On the following morning we started at ten A. M., and, after a journey of only two hours and a half, pitched our tents near a small tree, or bush, under

which the Arabs rested. We were now in the desert.

After two days travelling in the desert, we arrived at Suez, a town which presents nothing remarkable in external appearance. It is enclosed by a wall, and the whole of its defences would be rendered useless, by the occupation of a mound to the left of the town. A few small ships were lying in its harbour, the shoals and shallows not admitting the entrance of vessels of large burden. The town presents a deplorable appearance, and must be a most wretched residence, there being no fresh water. We sent our dromedaries round to the head of the gulf, and applied to the consular agent there, a Copt, to get us a boat, that we might proceed by sea, as far as Aina Moussa, (Moses'springs), where we should rejoin our caravan in the evening. The rascal, as soon as he discovered that we had sent on our dromedaries, took advantage of the circumstance to make us pay more than thrice the sum which would have been demanded under ordinary circumstances. There was no remedy, and we were obliged to comply with his extortion after a very slight reduction. Towards sunset we landed, opposite Aina Moussa, and in endeavouring to make a collection of shells, in which the shores of the Red Sea abound, night overtook us, and the rapid rise of the tide, which swept off the collections we had heaped up in different parts, warned us to retreat. After a painful walk of more