of the temple, is a series of arches, on a lower level, the roofs of which form the segment of a circle, but are not constructed according to the general method of the arch. These roofs are sculptured all over, and the walls have been covered with figures. If these may be judged of from what have been brought to light by a Catholic priest of Girgeh, they are of very elegant workmanship. On the opposite side to that on which these arched chambers are, and about three or four hundred feet distant, are some ruins, belonging evidently to the same structure; probably the gateway, or entrance to the court. At the south-east angle is another large structure, which does not seem to stand symmetrically with the other parts of the building, but still may have belonged to the temple. There are evidently several epochs in the building. The wall mentioned above is manifestly older than the ranges of pillars. The style and state of the hieroglyphics prove this-with the additional circumstance, that the layers of stones are not on the same level with those of the entablatures of the columns, as would have been the case were they of the same date. It is a vast edifice, with great labour in the detail, and well deserves to be excavated. Yet this can hardly be hoped for, as there is no motive for an enterprize of such magnitude, excepting a disinterested love of the arts. Every tomb in the neighbourhood is ransacked the bones, skulls,

and vestments of the dead are strown along the desert; and we saw, still busy in violating the abodes of the dead, men whose master was then lying lifeless, perhaps a victim to his persevering avarice. This activity, however, has left the temple untouched.

To the right, on the west of the small temple, is a great space occupied by tombs, generally of unburnt brick. The excavations are very large.

We spent the night at El Arabat, in a very small room, with which another, having no door, communicated, serving as a stable for asses, which kept up a constant noise during the night. The Arab to whom the hut belonged, spoke of thieves in the neighbourhood, but we had not the misfortune to obtain any closer knowledge of them.

It is some miles above

On Saturday, after returning to the ruins for two hours, we proceeded to a village at two hours and a quarter distance, to which we had ordered the boat the day before. Girgeh, and near a wood of low mimosa trees, which formed a pleasing relief after the monotony of the palm-tree.

There are two turns in the river between Girgeh and Ghenney, one of which is very difficult to pass. A large Turkish boat, filled with soldiers, being unable to double the point, was driven aground; and our own could scarcely keep her way. In bearing up, she came against the other; the sails, stretched by a strong wind, were dragged

along the point of the yard-arm, and we expected every moment to see them torn to pieces. The Turks stood motionless, without turning it aside; but, fortunately, no accident occurred, except that our flag was torn away, and cast in shreds upon the river; an omen which, to those who believe in omens, would appear by no means favourable, under the critical circumstances of the times.-We arrived at the point opposite Dendera about midday. Asses, and a crowd of Arabs, started up as if by enchantment; and, being provided with a dinner, which consisted of fowls, rice, &c., we set out, and on the way met Mr. S., returning in ecstasy from the ruins. The temple of Dendera is about a mile from the Nile, and we first visited the gate on the left, about five hundred yards from the great temple. It is a massive structure, almost entire, covered with ranges of hieroglyphics and figures on both sides, and in the passage. It consists of a single, lofty door-way, with piers, ornamented at the top with winged globes, and surmounted by an entablature, according to the Egyptian style. Between this and the temple, and as far on the other side of it, are hills of ruins, foundations of mud-houses, and tombs heaped up with the drift of the desert. Passing along the side of these, and having in front a small ruin, consisting of five columns, we came first in sight of the gate leading to the great temple-then of a temple to its right-and, at length, at the extre

mity of a passage, between two mountains of ruins, appeared the great temple itself, with its hieroglyphics, vast columns, with fine capitals, &c. &c. The faces of most of the figures in the temple, as also many of the figures themselves, are destroyed. The fine view of the interior is impeded by the thick forest of columns, all of which are covered with sculptures. There is an inner room, nearly filled with sand, and three other rooms beyond, a staircase, and an upper story of rooms. On the top of the temple is a deserted village, commanding a view of the Nile, the hills, desert, &c. &c. On the outside of the temple are some lions' heads, finely executed; behind is a small structure, and, at some distance, a gateway, like that seen in front. After going to the small temple, we returned to our boat, and set sail at six P. M., without stopping at Ghenney.

On Monday the 11th, the wind failed us, and after pulling some time, we were preparing, about eleven, to go ashore, when, to our great joy, a breeze sprang up, and we were enabled to proceed. The mountains below which Thebes is situated, were now pointed out in the distance. They gradually rose before us, and we soon approached the antient capital of Egypt. Before sunset we could distinguish to the left the vast mass of the ruins of Carnac. In half an hour we arrived at Gournah. Here we found Mr. Desparre, who had arrived in the forenoon, and, in ten minutes,

Mr. S., whom we had passed two miles below, We were immediately surrounded

also came up. by Arabs, offering little pieces of antiquities, such as small papyri, coins, figures, and trinkets. After the first bustle of arrival had subsided, we met, and recounted our adventures to each other. All were delighted with the voyage, which to all had been most fortunate. None, however, spoke of their country without a wish to return. The ruins of Egypt incomparably surpassed those of Italy; travelling, instead of being a toil, was a delight; yet, when arrived at Thebes, and on the point of next day beholding its stupendous remains, the mind of each seemed to dwell less on this pleasure, granted to one in a million, than on the hope of soon sharing with millions the pleasure of being at home.