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house with the wounded, and another party in ambush behind a wall, and directed Mauina to lead us to the next village; but be-. fore marching I sent a messenger to inform the Typees that we should cease hostilities when they no longer made resistance; but so long as stones were thrown I should destroy their villages: no notice was taken of this message. We continued our march up the valley, and met in our way several beautiful villages, which were set fire to, and at length arrived at their capital, for it deserved the name of one; we had been compelled to fight every inch of ground as we advanced, and here they made considerable opposition; the place was, however, soon carried, and I very reluctantly set fire to it, for the beauty and regularity of this place was such as to strike every spectator with astonishment. Their grand site or public square was far superior to any other we had met with. Numbers of their gods were here destroyed, several elegant and large war canoes, which had never been used, were burnt in the houses that sheltered them. Many of their drums, which they had been compelled to abandon, were thrown into the flames, and our friendly Indians loaded themselves with plunder, after destroying bread fruit and other trees, and all the young plants they could find. We had now arrived at the upper end of the valley, about nine miles from the beach, and at the foot of the waterfall above mentioned. The day was advancing, we had yet much to do, and it was necessary to hasten our return to the first fort taken, where we arrived after being about four hours, absent, leaving behind us a scene of ruin and desolation. I had hoped that the Typees had now abandoned all further thoughts of resistance, but on my return to the fort, I found the parties left there had been annoyed the whole time of my absence, but being sheltered from the stones, and short of ammunition, they had not fired on the enemy.
This fort was situated exactly half way up the valley to return by the road we descended the hill would have been impossible. It became, therefore, necessary to go to the beach, where I was informed that the difficulty of ascending the mountains would not be so great; many were exhausted with fatigue, and began to feel the cravings of hunger, and I directed a halt, that all might rest and refresh themselves. After resting about half an hour, I directed
the Indians to take care of our wounded; we formed the line of march, and proceeded down the valley, and in our route destroyed several other villages, at all of which we had some skirmishing with the enemy; at one of those places, situated at the foot of a steep hill, they rolled enormous stones down, with a view of crushing us to death, but they did us no injury. The number of villages destroyed amounted to ten, and the destruction of trees and plants, and the plunder carried off by the Indians, is almost incredible. The Typees fought us to the last, and even at first harassed our rear on our return, but parties left in ambush soon put a stop to any further annoyance. We at length came to this formidable fort, which checked our career on our first day's enterprise, and although I had witnessed many instances of the great exertion and ingenuity of these islanders, I never had supposed them capable of contriving and erecting a work like this, so well calculated for strength and defence. It formed the segment of a circle, and was about fifty yards in extent, built of large stones, six feet thick at the bottom, and gradually narrowing at the top, to give it strength and durability; on the left was a narrow entrance merely sufficient to admit of one person's entering, and served as a sally port, but to enter this from the outside, it was necessary to pass directly under the wall for one half its length, as an impenetrable thicket prevented the approach to it in any other direction. The wings and rear were equally guarded, and the right was flanked by another fortification of greater magnitude and equal strength and ingenuity; in these fortifications consisted the strength of the Typees; their usual fighting place with the other tribes was on the plain near the beach, and although they had frequently been engaged with the forces of several tribes combined, they had never before succeeded in compelling them to retire beyond the river, which, it will be remembered, is about one quarter of a mile from the fort. There are but three entrances into this valley, one on the west, which we descended, one on the east, and one from the beach. No force whatever had before dared to attack them on the west, on account of the impossibility of retreating in case of a repulse, which they calculated on as certain. The passage on the east led from the valley of their friends, and that from the beach was guarded by fortresses deemed impreg
nable, and justly so, against any force which could be brought against them unassisted by artillery. On viewing the strength of this place, I could not help felicitating myself on the lucky circumstance which had induced me to attack them by land, for I believe we should have failed in an attempt on this place by water. I had determined, on first starting, not to return until I had destroyed this fort, and now intended putting my design in execution. To have thrown it down by removing the stones singly would have required more time than we had to spare, and concluding that by our united efforts we should be enabled to demolish the whole at once, I directed the Indians and my own men to put their shoulders to the wall, and endeavoured by efforts made at the same instant to throw it down, but it was built with so much solidity that no impression could be made on it; we therefore left it as a monument to future generations of their skill and industry. This fortification appeared of ancient date, and time alone can ever destroy it. We succeeded in making a small breach in the wall, through which we passed on our route to the beach, a route which was familiar to us, but had now become doubly intricate from the number of trees which had since been cut down and placed across the pathway, as much to impede our advance as to embarrass us in our retreat; we found the same had been practised on the bank of the river.
On my arrival at the beach, I met Tavee and many of his tribe, together with the chiefs of the Happahs. Tavee was the bearer of a white flag, and several of the same emblems of peace were flying on the different hills round the valley. He was very desirous of knowing whether I intended going to their valley, and wished to be informed when he should again bring presents, and what articles he should bring; he inquired if I would still be his friend, and reminded me that I was Tomio Tipee, the chief of the valley of Shaumee, and that his name was Tavee; I requested him to return and allay the fears of the women, who he informed me were in the utmost terror, apprehensive of an attack from me. The chiefs of the Happahs invited me to return to their valley, assuring me that an abundance of every thing was already provided for us, and the girls, who had assembled in great numbers, dressed out in their best attire, welcomed our return with smiles,
and notwithstanding our wet and dirty situation, (for it had been raining the greatest part of the day,) convinced us by their looks and gestures, that they were disposed to give us the most friendly reception.
Gattaneuah met me on the side of the hill, as I was ascending; the old man's heart was full, he could not speak, he placed both my hands on his head, rested his forehead on my knees, and after a short pause, raising himself, placed his hands on my breast, exclaimed, Gattaneuah! and then on his own, said, Apotee, to remind me we had exchanged names.
When I had reached the summit of the mountain, I stopped to contemplate that valley which in the morning we had viewed in all its beauty, the scene of abundance and happiness. A long line of smoking ruins now marked our traces from one end to the other; the opposite hills were covered with the unhappy fugitives, and the whole presented a scene of devastation and horror. Unhappy and heroic people! the victims of your own courage and mistaken pride, while the instruments of your fate shed the tears of pity over your misfortunes, thousands of your country. men, (nay, brethren of the same family,) triumph in your dis tresses! I shall not fatigue myself or reader by a longer account of this expedition. We spent the night with the Happahs, who supplied us most abundantly, and next morning at daylight started for Madisonville, where we arrived about eight o'clock, after an absence of three nights and two days, during which time we marched upwards of sixty miles by paths which had never before been trodden but by the natives; several of my stoulest men were for a long time laid up by sickness occasioned by their excessive fatigue, and one (Corporal Mahon, of the marines,) died two days after his return.
SPIRIT OF MAGAZINES.
A Day by the Fire,-poetically and practically considered. [From the Reflector.]
I AM One of those that delight in a fireside, and can enjoy it without even the help of a cat or a tea-kettle. To cats, indeed, I have an aversion, as animals that only affect a sociality without caring a jot for any thing but their own luxury; and my teakettle, I frankly confess, has long been displaced, or rather dismissed, by a bronze-coloured and graceful urn; though, between ourselves, I am not sure that I have gained any thing by the exchange. Cowper, it is true, talks of the "bubbling and loudhissing urn," which
"Throws up a steamy column;"
but there was something so primitive and unaffected, so warmhearted and unpresuming, in the tea-kettle-its song was so much more cheerful and continued, and it kept the water so hot and comfortable as long as you wanted it, that I sometimes feel as if I had sent off a good, plain, faithful old friend, who had but one wish to serve me, for a superficial, smooth-faced upstart of a fellow, who, after a little promising and vapouring, grows cold and contemptuous, and thinks himself bound to do nothing but stand on a rug and have his person admired by the circle. To this admiration, in fact, I have been obliged to resort, in order to make myself think well of my bargain, if possible; and accordingly, I say to myself every now and then during the tea,-"A pretty look with it-that urn;" or "It's wonderful what a taste the Greeks had;" or "The eye might have a great many enjoyments, if people would but look after forms and shapes." In the mean while, the urn leaves off its "bubbling and hissing," but then there is such an air with it! My tea is made of cold water-but then the Greeks were such a nation!
If there is any one thing that can reconcile me to the loss of my kettle more than another, it is that my fire is left quite to itself; it has full room to breathe and to blaze, and I can poke it as I please. What recollection does that idea excite!-Poke it as I please!-Think, benevolent Reader-think of the pride and plea
VOL. IV. New Series.