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THE COURT MAGAZINE.

FASHIONS FOR THE MONTH OF DECEMBER, 1833.

EXPLANATION OF THE ENGRAVINGS OF THE plain high corsage, adorned down the centr

FASHIONS.

EVENING DRESS.

A CRAPE robe of the palest shade of French grey over satin to correspond. Corsage à la Montespan, cut quite low and square at the top, and trimmed with a lappel square behind, cleft upon the shoulders, and pointed on the bosom. The bottom of the body is also pointed, and the sides and centre of it and of the lappel are marked by an embroidery in white silk of a Grecian pattern. The lappel and the bottom of the corsage are bordered with white blond lace. Short full sleeves. The upper edge of the hem is embroidered to correspond. The hair is divided on the forehead, and arranged partly in a low knot at the back of the head, and partly in a platted braid on each side, which is looped by gold agraffes to a bandeau of pearls and emeralds, so as to hang double, but not very low, at each side of the face. A sprig of gold flowers is placed above the bandeau on the left side. Gold earrings of the lozenge form, with an emerald in the centre of each drop. Necklace, pearls and emeralds. Black knitted silk gloves. Black satin shoes.

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of the front with white fancy silk trimming, a row of which descends from the waist down each side of the front of the skirt, in the form of a broken cone. The centre of the skirt is ornamented with knots of satin riband to correspond, laid at regular distances on a satin rouleau. Satin ceinture tied in a bow, and short ends before. Lilac satin hat, a round and very open brim, trimmed on the inside with blond lace mentonnières, and a and knots of lilac riband adorn the crown; rose with buds and foliage, a sprig of roses white blond lace veil of a very light pattern. Tulle cellerette, sable boa tippet.

GENERAL OBSERVATIONS ON FASHIONS AND DRESS.

MANTLES have been introduced very early this season, and we see already several silk and satin ones trimmed with sable fur. They are not, however, so numerous as those bordered with broad bias bands of velvet to correspond, cut at one edge in dents of different forms. Several novelties have appeared in Cashmere mantles; some of them are beautiful, but the colours and patterns of the greater number are too glaring. We may cite as the most elegant that have yet appeared, those with black or very dark bottlegreen grounds, printed in zigzag stripes of gold colour; or geranium, with an Egyptian bottom of the mantle. Hanging sleeves, of border to the pelerine, hanging sleeves, and observe also that several mantles are made a large size, are generally adopted. We with ceintures, and some have a large velvet pelerine, with ends descending to the knee. Black real lace is employed to trim a good many Cashmere mantles. These latter have the collars attached by cords and tassels instead of clasps.

Velvet mantelets, lined with coloured gros

A pelisse robe of lilac gros des Indes, a de Naples, and trimmed with black lace, are f

also very fashionable. This is a mode revived after a lapse of thirty years, and without any alteration in the form.

Velvet hats and bonnets begin to be very numerous, and the brims are decidedly larger, particularly at the sides of the face. They continue to be made wide across the forehead, and standing back. The most elegant morning bonnets are those composed of plain black velvet, trimmed with black satin riband, and a half veil of black real lace. Several half-dress hats are trimmed with small compact bouquets of flowers, attached on one side by a knot of rich figured riband. A mixture of black and orange, or carrot colour, is still very fashionable. Plumes panachées are coming into favour for half-dress hats, and are likely to be very fashionable during the winter. A very pretty chapeau, trimmed with them, is composed of black satin: the material is laid on the crown in regular plaits. A bouquet of feathers, black at the bottom, and green from the middle of the feather to the tip, is attached on one side by a knot of black satin riband, spotted with green. The other, composed of scabieuse velvet, is trimmed with a long rose-coloured feather tipped with scabieuse, the beards thickened towards the ends, and knotted in rings.

Dinner dresses are of the half high pelisse form, they are made with corsages in crossed drapery, rising a little above the shoulder, but leaving the throat and part of the neck uncovered. Satin and rich silk are the materials most in favour for these dresses. Some have been recently ordered of levantine, which it is said will be very fashionable this winter; but in conformity to the present taste for rich materials, it is to be of a stouter fabric than that which was so much admired several years ago. Hats and turbans are both fashionable in dinner dress; caps are less so, but they are partially adopted. The first are of velvet or crape of a small size, and trimmed either with flowers or a single ostrich feather. Some have the crown partially covered with a blond lace drapery, which, descending through an opening on each side of the brim, forms floating brides; they have a very elegant effect. Turbans are of gauze or crape, they are trimmed with aigrettes, or membranes of the plumage of birds of Paradise. Those of the Turkish form are in majority. The only observation we have to make on caps is, that they have diminished in size. Fashionable colours are those we cited last month, with the addition of grey and carrot colour.

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Mantles and shawls are both in favour for the promenade. The most elegant of the former are in velvet, satin, and tissu Bragance. There also several of Cashmere wool woven in patterns that are alike on both sides. These last are made with velvet pelerines which are either cut in dents de loup, or edged with a piping of black satin. Several Cashmere mantles are lined with grey squirrel fur, and a few are bordered with swans' down. Fur trimmings are not, however, as yet generally adopted, but muffs and tippets form an indispensable part of promenade dress. Sable is the only fashionable fur for married ladies; but most unmarried ones wear grey squirrel back. Boas are only partially adopted, fur pelerines being more fashionable at present, it is thought that they will supersede boas before the end of the winter. Cashmere shawls are those most generally adopted, except for the undress morning walk, for which very ample square ones of Thibet wool, of large plaided patterns in showy colours, are in request. In some instances they are made into mantles. This fashion will be transient, for it is in very bad taste.

Velours épenglé lined with plain satin is very much in favour for bonnets. We see also several composed entirely of rosecoloured satin, and ornamented with a knot of gauze riband, in which is inserted a bouquet of Provence roses. The edge of the brim may be trimmed according to the fancy of the wearer, with a black or white blond lace veil, but one of English point lace is considered much more distingué. A mixture of black and orange is still fashionable, but not so much so as black and green. Several of the new hats are composed of green satin, and lined with black velvet. Some are trimmed with flowers of various hues, others with ribands only, in which the two colours are mingled.

Little change has taken place in the forms of robes for evening dress; some have the corsages round, but in general they are pointed at the bottom, the point brought low, and the waist long; the bosom is draped horizontally, or in the demi-cœur stile. The sleeves, if short, very ample, and of the double sabot form; if long, they are generally ornamented at the bottom with a fancy cuff. As to the width of the skirts it has rather increased, and is really preposterous. The bodies of dresses are cut a little higher at

the top, and it is supposed that those rounded at the bottom will soon be worn only in morning or promenade dress, for costumes à l'antique are still more fashionable for evening parties than they were last season. They are adopted not only in form but material for ball dresses, several of which have lately been made of rich silk, sprigged, or striped with gold or silver. Some robes have also appeared in figured silks, the patterns of which were perfectly antique; it is true that comparatively few have been worn as dancing dresses, but it has been remarked that those few were seen on leaders of the fashion at the late court balls. Several dresses were of black tulle, embroidered in bouquets or

wreaths of flowers in different coloured silks, and worn over black satin. This style is really very elegant, though not, in our opinion, appropriate to ball dress; it is supposed it will be fashionable during the winter.

The coiffures were mostly those adopted in Louis XIV.'s reign. The majority were à la Valois and à la Montespan; they were ornamented with flowers. Very few diamonds were seen in head-dresses, and those only on English ladies. A few coiffures, copied from antique statues, and ornamented with pearls, were very much admired.Fashionable colours are the same as last month.

LITERARY INTELLIGENCE.

"Forty Years' Residence in America; or, the Doctrine of a particular Providence exemplified in the life of Grant Thorburn, Seedsman of New York."

MR. D. BOIELEAU has in the Press-"A few Remarks upon Mr. Hayward's Prose translation of GOETHE'S FAUST," with additional Observations on the difficulty of translating German works in general.

"The British Cyclopædia of Natural History" is preparing for immediate publication, with engravings by Landseer.

In the press by Mr. Montgomery Martin, the first volume "(Asia)," of a national work on the Colonies of the British Empire.

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manners and modes of life among the higher and middle ranks of society in the East.

"The Dark Lady of Doonah," a high romance, by the author of " Wild Sports of the West," &c. A new " Novel," by the author of "Sayings and Doings," &c.

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Among the memoirs in the forthcoming " Annual Biography and Obituary," are those of Lord Exmouth; Sir George Dallas, Bart.; Sir John Malcolm; Earl Fitzwilliam; Lord Dover; Sir Henry Blackwood; W. Wilberforce, Esq.; Sir E. G. Colpoys; Capt. Lyon, R. N.; Rajah Rammohun Roy; Admiral Boys; J. Heriot, Esq. (Comptroller of Chelsea Hospital); Mr. Samuel Drew, &c. "Olympia Morata, her Times, Life, and Writings," by the author of "Selwyn."

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Elizabeth, youngest daughter of the late Sir Alexander Campbell, Bart., to the Rev. Henry Yorke, Rector of Wimpole, Cambridgeshire.

At Blanvaddoch, Dumbartonshire, Andrew Bonar, Esq., banker in Edinburgh, to Marcelly, daughter of the late Colonel Ronaldson Macdonell, of Glengarry, Clanranald.

At Chesterfield, Francis Hastings Graham, Esq., second son of the late Gen. Graham, of Stirling Castle, to Honora Anna Seward, only daughter of the late Jonathan Stokes, M.D.

At Mayo, Mr. John Clark, of Shamble-street, to Mrs. Mary O'Rorke; the bridegroom is in his 90th year, and the bride in her 89th.

Richard Robertson, Esq., to Josepha Mary, eldest daughter of the Rev. William St. Andrew Vincent, Prebend of Chicester and Vicar of Bolney, and granddaughter of the late Dean of Westminster.

At Carnock, Scotland, Captain John Osborn, Enniskillen Dragoons, to Catherine, daughter of the late Sir M. S. Stewart, Bart.

At Boulogne-sur-Mer, by the Rev. W. R. Wyatt, M. A., Edwin Wyatt, Esq., of the Cottage, Denbighshire, to Mary, eldest daughter of Admiral Mackellar.

Mselle Dosne, the daughter of the ReceiverGeneral of the department of Finisterre, to M. Thiers, Minister of Commerce. The lady, who is in her 15th year, is small, pretty, and above all, very rich, having, it is said, a fortune of 2,000,000fr.

The Scotsman thus describes the condition of a couple who were married a short time ago:-"The passengers on the high road to the west of this place, were rather puzzled a few days since, by observing a man busy digging potatoes in a field, while a young woman sat beside him equally busy at some piece of machinery, with a large wheel in motion. Some at first supposed that a new agricultural implement was at work, perhaps in the preparation of the roots into Sir John Sinclair's flour. It was at last discovered that the loving couple were still in the honey month, and that nothing should separate them, within doors or without, the frugal wife carried her reel upwards of a mile to the field, and was winding pirns beside her equally eident deary, reminding one of the time, when Adam delved and Eve span!""

It is well known that the King of Prussia made a left-handed marriage with a young lady, named De Herach, since created Princess de Leignitz. Her father, who had been a widower for two years, has

just given to his Prussian Majesty a mother-in-law, by taking to wife a young Saxon lady.

DEATHS.

At Prague, Prince Aloys Lichtenstein, Generalin-Chief in Bohemia.

The Hereditary Prince of Sanderhausen.

At the Deanery, the Very Rev. Dr. Woodhouse, Dean of Lichfield, in his 86th year.

At Fetreresso Castle, N. B. Mrs. Abercromby Duff.

At Sydney, N. B., Tunis Rephenbark, in his 103rd year, He was one of the combatants under the walls of Quebec when Wolfe and Montcalm fell.

At Plymouth, in his 102d year, a seaman named Hill; he was born in 1731, and lived in four king's reigns,

Calvin Edson, the "Living Skeleton," died a few days since at his residence in Randolph, Vt. His body was taken from the tomb the night after its interment, and two young men belonging to the medical class at Hanover have been arrested for the offence.

Mr. John Wontner, the governor of Newgate, died at twelve o'clock on Wednesday night, at his residence in the Old Bailey, in consequence of brain fever. The deceased had only been indisposed two days. It appears that on Wednesday week, Mr. Wontner officially accompanied some convicts to Chatham, during which journey he caught a severe cold. He complained to his family on the following morning of great indisposition; but though medical attendance was immediately obtained, he gradually grew worse, and eventually sunk under the disease. Mr. W. was 53 years of age, and has been governor of Newgate for eleven years. Mr. Wontner had been for some years past in the service of the Corporation: first, as one of the city marshals, and while filling that office he was thrown from his horse and fractured his leg, which was afterwards amputated. The situation of governor of Newgate soon afterwards falling vacant, Mr. W. was elected, and during the long period which he held this important office, his conduct has been so distinguished for humanity as not only to call forth the approbation of the Mayor and Sheriffs, but repeatedly of the Judges, as well as from the unhappy persons committed to his care. The deceased has left behind him a numerous family. The appointment of governor is in the gift of the Court of Aldermen.

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