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church is situated are to be seen the remains of it is the seat of thriving industry and of busy the once famous Abbey of St. Bertin, formerly the manufacture, ranking as the seventh industrial noblest Gothic building in French Flanders. The and commercial city of the country. The town only fragment now remaining is a stately tower, is traversed by the waters of the Haute and noble even in its ruins, the mutilated panelling of Basse Deule, which fill its moats, and work the its walls bespeaking the chaste and superior ele- mill machinery about. They are connected by a gance of its florid Gothic style of ornament. From canal, so arranged as to be able to inundate the the tower, which is propped by a rude buttress country for one and a half mile around the walls, of masonry, a fine panoramic view of the town

if necessary. Though the city is spacious and its may be had.

wealth very great, yet its monuments and buildings Thomas à Becket sought refuge in this are few and unimportant. once-famous abbey, when å fugitive from

The Citadel is looked upon as a master specimen England, and within its cloister were passed the

of the skill of Vauban, who held the position of last four years of his life. The monastery was

governor for many years. The Hotel de Vile is an suppressed in 1792, but was spared by the Conven

erection of the 13th century, built by Jean Sanstion. The Directory was less considerate, and under Peur, inhabited by Charles V., and was anciently it the roof was taken off, and the building stripped the palace of the Dukes of Burgundy. The buildof its fixtures and wood work, which were sold. ing is in the early Gothic style, and has in one of The work of destruction was completed a few its tourelles an exquisitely groined staircase and a years since by the local authorities, who had the

chapel. The Musée Wicar, containing an interesting walls taken down, in order to find work for some and rich collection of drawings by the old masters, unemployed labourers.

occupies one division of the building. This It was here existed the celebrated Jesuits' Col

collection consists of 68 paintings by Raphael, lege; founded in 1596 by an English Jesuit, named 13 by Masaccio, 10 by Fra Bartolommeo, and 197 Parsons. In it were educated many of the con

architectural designs by Michael Angelo. An spirators mixed up in the Gunpowder Plot, and inspection of them will interest and gratify all some of the wild spirits who intrigued against lovers of the fine arts. Wicar, a native, bequeathed Elizabeth. This college was succeeded by a

them to the city. The Musée Moillet, an ethnoseminary for British Roman Catholics, and in it graphical collection, an Archæological museum, was educated the famous agitator, the late Daniel

and an Industrial Museum also form part of the O'Connell.

Hôtel de Ville, which also includes the Musée de Considerable trade is done in linens and pipes, Peinture, which will scarcely repay a visit; it, and eggs and fruit are exported to England.

however, contains many curious old portraits of French Reformed Church, in the Rue Taviel;

the Dukes of Burgundy and of the Counts of service every Sunday at 10-45 a.m.

Flanders, besides a painting by Rubens, and two Eblinghem (Station).

by Arnold de Vuez, a native artist, born in 1642, Hazebrouck (Station). From here a branch and considerably eminent in his profession. The line leads to Dunkirk. Refreshments may be had. former painting represents St. Catherine rescued

The following unimportant stations are next from the wheel of martyrdom, and the two latter passed :--Strazeele, Bailleul, Steenwerck, are portraits of Saints Francis and Cecilia. Armentières, and Perenchies.

The chief church in Lille is that of St. Maurice, Lille (Station).-Hotels:

a Gothic building of the 16th century, resting on Hotel de l'Europe.

delicately light pillars, but presenting no appearHotel de Lille; du Grand Café Jean.

ance of general interest. The church of Ste. Paris; Flandre; Bellevue; Chemin de fer du Nord. Catherine, in which is an image which has been English Church Service, on Sundays.

venerated for eight centuries, should be visited, is This city is strongly fortified, and forins, on the also the finc houses of the Rue Esqiiermoise. The northern frontiers of France, the central point of Bibliothèque communale, open 10 a.m., possesses defence. With a population of 188,370 inhabitants, 1 55,500 books and MSS.

The suburbs of Lille for miles around, as well takes place called Géant Gayant; a large osier as the entire Department du Nord, will strike giant, 30 feet high, attired in armour, and accomthe traveller as strongly resembling the districts panied by a family of proportionate size, perthrough Lancashire and the West Riding. On ambulate the streets, accompanied by the populace. all sides is heard the busy hum of industry, whilst The Musée, always open to strangers, contains a tall chimneys and numerous mills proclaim the fair collection of pictures by Van Dyck, Van der active and vigorous trade being carried on, form- Meulen, &c., and ancient furniture. Douai has ing the rather novel combination of a fortress been famed for its College, founded by Cardinal and a manufacturing town. Flax, which forms Allen in 1569. In it Roman Catholic priests for the staple manufacture, is grown in and about England and Ireland have been educated. Daniel the adjacent country. It is spun into ordinary O'Connell also studied here. A good trade in thread, and twisted into Lisle thread. Cotton flax is carried on. spinning and manufacture are also carried on

Here the Northern of France Railway divides to a considerable extent, and lace, ribbons, and into two branches, the one proceeding to join tulle are extensively made. Its other branches

the Belgian Railways by Valenciennes; the other of trade are the manufacture of sugar from beet

by Arras and Amiens to Paris. root, the extraction of oils from colza and the

Montigny, Somain, Wallers, and Raismes seeds of rape, poppies, linseed, &c. Its other

Stations are passed previous to our arrival at objects of attraction are the Hospital, founded in 1739, the Bridge, the Concert Hall, the Gaol, the

Valenciennes (Station). Botanical Gardens, the Triumphal Arch, erected

Hotels: Du Commerce; des Princes; du Nord;

Hotel Vauban. in 1782, in honour of Louis XIV., and the Column raised in memory of the siege sustained by the Conveyancés at thó station, a quarter of a milc city in 1792.

distant from the town; there is a good Buffet here. Railway to Douai and Paris; to Valenciennes, Population, 26,700. A- place of considerable Mons, and Brussels; to Courtrai, Ghent, and trade and wealth, situated on the French Northern Brussels.

Railway; also strongly fortified by its position

on the Scheldt, at its confluence with the Rhon9 for continuation of direct route to Brussels,

elle, by which it may be surrounded for threesee page 16.

fourths of its circumference, the water being Lille to Douai and Valenciennes. retained by means of sluices in the fortifications. Seclin, Carvin, and Leforest Stations, | The town is well built; the houses are generally supplying places of no interest or importance, are of brick and white stone. The Hôtel de Ville, in passed before arriving at

which the Gothic style is mingled with several Douai (Station).

orders of architecture, will claim attention; it is Hotels : Hotel de Flandre ; de l'Europe.

highly decorated; the handsome façade is surPopulation, 30,300. The town is conveniently mounted by an attic, adorned with caryatid situated on the river Scarpe, which

figures, representing the four seasons. The Hose municates with the canal of Sense, and is pital and the Theatre are also remarkable. The surrounded by fortifications, which, originally by Musée, open from 10 a.m. to strangers, has Quentin Vauban, have lately been partially reconstructed. Matsys' "Misers," and paintings by Van Dyck, The detached fort of Scarpe serves as a defence | Teniers, Rubens, Jordaens, &c. The Valanciennes for the town, which belongs to Department du lace, formerly so famous, is now only made in Nord. It has a very picturesque belfry in the coarse and inferior qualities. From the Citadel market-place, surmounting the Hôtel de Ville, a the valley of the Scheldt is seen to advantage, Gothic building of the 15th century, in which is Froissart, the historian of the 14th century, was the library, containing 50,000 vols. A rather born here. There is a railway connection with curious spectacle greets the traveller's eye here Anzin (Station), &c. in the early part of each July, which a procession VALENCIENN TO BR

ELS (Route 7 reversed);


Lille to Ghent, via Mouscron and contained 6,000 weavers. It is still famous for Courtrai.

its manufacture of table linen and other damask, Population 100,300.

though no longer possessing any monopoly in Hotel: Ferraille.

these articles. Roubaix(station), An industrious and manu- The surrounding country is noted for its growth facturing town, which has lately risen into great of flax, for the use of its own and other manufacimportance and still continues to increase in tories. In the neighbourhood are large and extenpopulation and trade. Its staple manufacture is sive bleaching-grounds. The flax is steeped in the woollens and mixed fabrics, and it is generally waters of the Lys, esteemed peculiarly favourable called the French Bradford. Close to it, the for bleaching purposes. English, under the Duke of York, suffered a severe In 1312, Philip of Burgundy carried away a defeat from the French, commanded by Pichegru, celebrated Clock, considered at that time one on May 18th, 1794. They lost 1,000 killed, 2,000 of the wonders of the age, and the two figures prisoners, and 60 cannon.

(Jacquemart and his wife) which struck the Tourcoing (Station), 74 miles from Lille. A hours. The regularity of the motions of these town with 48,635 inhabitants, no way remarkable latter gave rise to a proverb which still exists in its general appearance, but noted for its manu- in Courtrai, when speaking of the love existing factures of table linen.

between a couple, "They agree like Jacquemart Mouscron (Station), in Belgium, 11 miles and his wife." from Lille. The town is seen on an eminence to the In a plain near Courtrai was fought, in 1302, right, with its beautiful church built of bricks.

the sanguinary Battle of the Golden Spurs, between Its chief importance arises from the fact of its

the French troops, under the Count d'Artois, and being situated on the frontier. It is the chief place the Flemish under John, Count of Namur; in of its commune, and contains a population of 5,536 which the former were totally defeated, and the souls, The country about is rich and well Count d'Artois and the Constable of France, tocultivated, producing wheat and rich pastures.gether with upwards of twelve hundred knights Facing Mouscron, to the left, is the village of and several thousand men, left dead on the field. Luingues. , Here (junction of the railway from The battle derived its name from the immense Tournai) a change of carriage and an examination number (700) of the gilt spurs worn by the knights, of luggage takes place. Travellers for Brussels, which fell into the hands of the victors. To the via Jurbise, also to Namur, should take especial right of the road is seen a small chapel, erected in care to get into the proper train. From this 1831 to commemorate the event. It is outside the station the railway proceeds on through a beauti- Porte de Gand, and marks the centre of the battleful country, until its arrival at Courtrai, on field. nearing which the country appears highly culti- The public buildings and monuments of Courtrai vated and picturesquely agreeable.

are not numerous. We will describe shortly the Courtrai (Station)---In Flemish, Kortryk. principal. Population (1886), 29,305.

The Hotel de Ville (1526) possesses two chimHotels: Du Lion d'Or; du Damier; Royal; Midi; neys, one placed in the police court or hall, the du Nord.

other in the council room; the sculpture of which A fortified town, and the chief place of a is of exquisite delicacy and highly finished, and judicial and administrative district of West Flan- with the fine belfry worthy of attention. ders. It is situated on the Lys, which divides The Church of Saint Martin was founded in it into two parts, securing to it a communication the early part of the 15th century. It is noted with the principal towns in the north of France. for the tower (one of the loftiest in Belgium) which The streets are large, and finely built. Under the surmounts the portico. There is a tabernacle in name of Cortoriacum it existed in the time of the the interior most admirably sculptured, and a Romans. The first cloths were made here in picture by Ryckere, a painter of the 16th century, 1268, and two hundred years afterwards it representing the “Descent of the Holy Spirit upon

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the Apostles," and on the two wings, “The Sleep origin, where Marlborough and Prince Eugene of Adam in Paradise," and "The Baptism of defeated the French, 11th July, 1708. Great Christ." There is another picture by Van Man- numbers of medals of the Gauls and first Kings deren, the historian and poet, representing “A of France have been found here. The Town scene of Martyrdom at Rome." The rich orna- Hall is handsome Gothic building; the ments made use of in Divine service are worthy of fountain and basin opposite are worthy of notice for the beauty of the chasing and engraving. attention. The portal of the collegiate church of

Notre Dame: This church is worthy of notice, the burgomaster and aldermen is a masterpiece of chiefly from the richness of its marbles.

It was

wood carving, executed in 1530 by Paul Vander founded in 1208 by Baldwin, Count of Flanders Schelder. The trade in linen is extensive. The and Emperor of Constantinople. It deserves to population is 6,265. be visited on account of the richness and grandeur Leaving Courtrai for Ghent, the railway runs of its ornaments, particularly a chef-dæuvre of parallel to the paved road, and shortly arrives at Van Dyck, placed behind the high altar, and repre- Haerlebeke (Station). A commune and chief senting the Elevation of the Cross. The tabernacle, place of a canton in the district of Courtrai, con& fine piece of carving, by the famous Lefevre, oftaining a population of 4,486 souls. It was the Tournai; two bas-reliefs by Godecharles; and

oldest town in Flanders, and the residence of the Christ at the Tomb, deserve to be noticed. This

first governors of the country. Antiquities have church once possessed the small ivory statue of frequently been found here. The church is rethe Virgin, known as the Virgin of Oroeningen, markable for its architecture, and contains a superb celebrated for the miracles which, according to pulpit, a masterpiece of Decreux, of Tournay. It many, it performed; it is now in the church of was formerly an important fortress, and suffered Saint Michael, and still attracts crowds of pilgrims many vicissitudes in the 9th and 10th centuries. to its shrine. The two towers, called Brotom-Torren, It has manufactures of woollens, cloths, and built in 1413, are remarkable for the extreme tobacco. strength and thickness of the walls; they are united Waereghem (Station). An important and by a bridge over the Lys, built in the year 1465. ancient commune of the district of Courtrai;

The Market Houses are seen in all their ancient population, 7,220. It has a considerable trade in simplicity in the centre of the town; the front of linen. Situated four miles north-west of it, is the the building is adorned by five elegant turrets. village of Roosbeke, remarkable as the spot where There was formerly a high tower in the centre of Philip Van Artevelde, the brewer of Ghent, suffered the structure, in which the celebrated clock pre- defeat by the French in 1382,

being killed viously mentioned was placed. A modern building with 20,000 of his countrymen. Shortly after has been erected for market purposes.

leaving Waereghem the railway crosses the Stype, The Theatre, remarkable for the beauty of its and, quitting West Flanders, enters into East decorations, forms part of the new market building. Flanders, passes Zulte, a town containing 2,000

Promenades. The ramparts or boulevards sur- inhabitants, and arrives at Deynze, after running rounding Courtrai form a fine walk, from which in a right line, past Olsene and then Mochelen; may be had a beautiful view of the city. The the former a commune of the district of Ghent, with park of Saint George is likewise a delightful a population of 2,600, and the latter a town of the place; but by far the most agreeable of the public same district, containing a population of 2,100 walks is the esplanade; it is planted with chestnut inhabitants. and lime trues, and has nicely laid out plots of Deynze (Station) is situated on the left bank green, furnished here and there with elegant and of the Lys.

On the opposite bank, between the comfortable seats.

road and the river, is Peteghem, a small commune Railway to Bruges and Ostend; also to Ypres, containing 1,400 souls. Deynze is the chief place Poperinghe, Renaix, Mons, &c.; and direct to of a canton in the district of Ghent, and an ancient Brussels, viâ Audenarde, Sotteghem, Denderleeuw. town; its population is 3,800. The principal Church,

denarde (Station) is of very ancient | Notre Dame, is an old Gothic building, containing

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