The château was occupied by a detachment of the guards under Lord Saltoun. The French army was full two miles in length, extending along the opposite ridge, and having La Belle Alliance in the centre of their line. Napoleon at this time had about 70,000 men with him; and the allies about the same, exclusive of the Prussians. Here took place, on the 18th of June, the sanguinary battle by which the fate of Europe was decided. It began at eleven o'clock in the morning and continued till seven in the evening. The boldness and pertinacity exhibited by the French troops in their repeated attacks have few parallels in history; whilst the English received each successive shock with the coolest and most determined intrepidity. The French army was preparing to make a last assault, when the Prussian general, Blücher, appeared on their flanks, at the head of two divisions. A frightful panic then spread through the French ranks, and Bonaparte, abandoned by fortune, whose idol he had so often seemed, was hurried from the field by the impetuous torrent of fugitives.

All the French

artillery, a great part of the baggage, and even the private carriage of Napoleon fell into the hands of the victors. This victory, however, was dearly purchased. The loss to the victors was great indeed. Beside Generals Picton and Ponsonby, the loss of the British and Hanoverians on the 16th and 18th, amounted to not less than 13,000 men and 750 officers, the flower of the army, of whom more than two-thirds fell at Waterloo; the total loss of the Prussians, from the commencement of the campaign, to their second triumphant entry into Paris, has been officially stated at 38,000, including 7,000 at Water100; but that of the French has never been accurately ascertained. It may however be tolerably certainly fixed at 13,000 killed and wounded, with 8,000 prisoners. Their loss during the campaign has been approximately calculated at 100,000 men, killed, wounded, and missing. Who can think of this work of human destruction without a thrill of horror at the dreadful havoc of modern warfare, or what man would hesitate to adopt the christian principles of peace and good will, with the view of averting such inhuman conflicts as those of which these plains were the theatre.

From that moment the village of Waterloo became an object of interesting curiosity to travellers of all nations, but above all to the English, who contemplate, with a melancholy pride, fields which have been moistened with the life-springs of so many of their fellow countrymen.

Having briefly traced the momentous events that will long continue to impart a powerful interest to the plains of Waterloo, we proceed to point out such particular land-marks as may serve to give the tourist a correct idea of the positions taken by the contending armies during the contest, and, with the assistance of a few details, enable him to ascertain the precise spot of many heroic deeds. For this purpose, it is necessary to retrace our steps, in order to commence with the Forest of Soignies. The forest commences a mile and three-quarters from the village, and after presenting every variety of sylvan scenery, comes to an end a little beyond Waterloo. The principal road through the wood to this village is of great length and extreme regularity; but the unvarying, uniform appearance of the trees which fringe it, give a sombre aspect to the route. The Forest, which is about seven to eight miles in breadth, and nine miles in length, contains many defiles, and is interspersed with lakes, vales, brooks, hamlets, and cultivated plains. Great quantities of oak were felled by command of Bonaparte, in order to supply the dockyards at Amsterdam; but the forest still abounds in fine timber, and a thousand acres of it, which belong to the Duke of Wellington, are said to yield a revenue of forty francs an acre. The proximity of this immense mass of wood to Brussels, renders the city somewhat damp and cold when the wind blows from that quarter; on the other hand, from its great attractive powers, thunder-clouds frequently discharge themselves there, which might otherwise carry heavy storms into the town. Nearly at the extremity of the forest, and about ten miles from Brussels, stands Waterloo, as before-mentioned.

Mont St. Jean.-This hamlet, which, as beforementioned, is more than a mile from Waterloo, at a place where the road divides into two branches, of which that on the left leads to Genappe, and

that on the right to Nivelles, must not be confounded by the tourist with the farm-house of Mont St. Jean, half a mile in advance of the village, on the road to the farm of La Haye Sainte, which was in the immediate rear of the British position. From this farm an easy ascent leads to the ridge which formed the line of occupation of the British army. Near the centre of this ridge stood the Wellington Tree, so called in consequence of the duke having, it is said, taken his station there during part of the 18th. It was cut down and sold in 1821. In front is a little valley, irregularly formed, with numerous gentle windings and hollows, and varying in breadth from a quarter to half a mile. This was the scene of the murderous conflict. The opposite ridges, running parallel to Mont St. Jean, were occupied by the French. stupendous triumphal Mound of a conical shape, surmounted by a colossal Belgian Lion in bronze, was constructed at the expense of the Netherlands government on the plains of St. Jean. The base of the monument is 160 yards in diameter, and the height of the whole nearly 50 yards.

A

La Haye Sainte.-This is the name of a large farm-house on the road from Mont St. Jean to La Belle Alliance, and about a mile from the former place, on the Genappe road. It was in the left centre of the British position, and a little in advance of Wellington's Tree. In the immediate vicinity of this house, which received much injury, in all directions, and especially in what forms the back part of the building, the hottest conflict raged between the combatants. It was taken by the French army on the day, and maintained by them until nearly the end of the battle. On the side of the building towards the road a monument has been erected to the memory of some officers of the 2nd German Legion, who fell in the onslaught; and at a little distance, on the opposite side of the road, is a hollow way, where 4,000 men and a great number of horses were buried in one common grave. Near this spot fell Sir Thomas Picton, leading a gallant charge on the French cuirassiers.

Hougoumont.-The large farm-house or château, so called, was fiercely contested. It is situated on the right of La Haye Sainte from Waterloo, at the distance of about a mile from the former place. The British had possession of the house and gar

dens, and fought with a desperate courage to maintain it; while the French, led on by Jerome Bonaparte, who, though wounded in the arm, still kept the field, made equal efforts to expel them, aware that, if they became masters of the place, the whole of the British lines would be exposed to their fire. It was, in fact, the key-stone of the British position. The garden was protected on three sides by a strong wall, which served our troops as a breast-work, and from behind which they aimed at the assailants with deadly certainty; the unprotected part commanded a view of the Duke of Wellington's position on the heights. In vain the enemy made repeated attempts to scale the garden wall from the adjoining orchard, and though they thrice entered the gates of Hougoumont, they were as often repulsed, and driven out with severe loss. At length, after a destructive artillery fire, and the most frightful carnage, the French succeeded in setting the place on fire, and great numbers of killed and wounded on both sides were buried in the ruins. The place was entirely destroyed, with the exception of the chapel and an out-house, which escaped almost uninjured. Many of the surrounding trees were cut in two, while others were completely perforated with balls. A large but rudely-carved figure of the Saviour is placed over the altar in the Chapel, which is very small, and by no means curious.

Having

La Belle Alliance.-A small farm-house, so called, now a poor inn, about three-quarters of a mile from La Haye Sainte. It is erroneously stated that Wellington and Blücher met here on the evening of the day of battle. In reality it was at Maison Rouge, 2 miles further. exchanged greetings and congratulations, the duke retired on his position, and Blücher went in pursuit of the flying enemy. Bonaparte posted his favourite guard in front of this place, and never approached in person nearer to La Haye Sainte than the hollow part of the ground between that place and La Belle Alliance and the main road. The Prussians have erected a Monument in iron near this spot, to commemorate the success of their army.

Marke Braine.-This small place is on the right of the village of Mont St. Jean, and about a mile from it. The British reserve on

the right, commanded by Major-General Humber, was posted on this part of the field; but no event occurred to render the spot memorable.

At Plancenoit, 1 mile to the N.E. of La Belle Alliance, occurred the sanguinary struggle between the Prussians under Prince William (afterwards Prince Wilhelm) and the French. An iron obelisk, with an inscription, commemorates the desperate bravery of the Germans. The ground where the battle was fought produced the best crops in Belgium for many years after the sanguinary event.

Ramillies (page 49) is not far off from the field; and in 1705, Marlborough was nearly fighting a battle at Frischermont, hard by.

"But where I stood, beneath the fresh green tree,
Which, living, waves where thou didst cease to live,
And saw around me the wide fields revive

With fruits and fertile promise, and the spring
Come forth her work of gladness to contrive,
With all her reckless birds upon the wing,

I turned from all she brought to those she could not bring."

"Was it a soothing or a mournful thought,
Amid this scene of slaughter, as we stood,
Where armies had with recent fury fought,
To mark how gentle nature still pursued
Her quiet course, as if she took no care
For what her noblest work had suffered there."

BYRON.

SOUTHEY.

Visitors to Waterloo will find hordes of beggars, and persons selling relics, in the shape of buttons, shreds of cloth, fragments of accoutrements, bullets, many of which are manufactured in the neighbourhood. Very many real melancholy memorials of the carnage were brought to light for some years after the battle.

There are several other pretty places to which Excursions could be made with pleasure from Brussels, such as Forest, Trois Fontaines, Tervueren, Saventhem (see page 65), and the Central House of Correction, on the rail to Vilvorde. It is on the same plan as the model prisons constructed during the last forty years in England and the

United States. The prison can contain 2,000 prisoners. There are, however, some special features connected with the Belgian system which will interest those who study these matters. The old Chateau, on the site of which this prison was originally erected, also answered the same purpose, but only for state offenders. Madame Deshouliers, the pastoral poetess, was a prisoner of state here in 1657.

ROUTE 7.

Brussels to Paris, by way of Mons and Maubeuge, or Mons and Quiévrain. Brussels to Braine-le-Compte, Soignies, and Jurbise, see Route 2.

Between Jurbise and Mons the road presents many engineering difficulties. On approaching Mons the traveller sees its steeples, towers, and fortifications stretched before him. Before entering the town, the commune of Nimy and the river Haine are passed; running parallel to one another, the railroad and river pass through a bastion, and enter the town together. The Station is situated within the arsenal.

Mons (Station). Flemish Bergen.
Population, 25,420.

Hotels: De la Couronne; Hotel Royal.

The

A large town, 38 miles from Brussels, the chief place of the province of Hainault. river Trouille divides it into two parts, and it is partly overlooked by the mound of the Panina. It is said that Julius Cæsar built a castle here, which, taking the name of Castrum Cæsaris, formed the beginning of the town of Mons, and was destroyed by the barbarians in the fifth century. Alberic, Count of Hainault, repaired the remains of the town, and surrounded it with walls. In 804, Charlemagne formed it into the capital of a province. Mons after this became the scene of many troubles. Under the reign of Charles V. it had its highest degree of prosperity; the manufactures of cloth and serge were carried on to a great extent. Iron was wrought here to great advantage, and the beauty of their chased jewellery excited the admiration of strangers. Under the French Republic, Mons became the The fortifications, department of Jemappes.

rebuilt in 1815, were removed 50 years later, and their site formed into promenades. The streets are steep, but wide, clean, and in good repair. The monuments and curiosities are numerous, and worthy of attention.

Mons was the natal town of Orlando Lassus, a celebrated musician of the sixteenth century. Ten miles south of Mons, within the French territories, is the spot where was fought the sanguinary battle of Malplaquet, at which the Duke of Marlborough and Prince Eugene conquered the French and lost on the battle field 20,000 men,

Mons has a communication with the Scheldt by the Canal de Condé; and also, by railway, with Jurbise, Ath, Tournai, Lille, and Calais.

Mons also possesses manufactures of gloves, leather, and cutlery, and several tan-yards and bleaching grounds. The principal buildings are the Hôtel de Ville, and the Church of St. Waudru, which is said to be built on the site of Cæsar's Castle. The altar deserves attention. There is also a Theatre, a Public Library, a College, and a Foundling Hospital. Mons was the birthplace of Peter Denys, a journeyman blacksmith, who constructed the beautiful iron ornaments which decorate the Abbey of St. Denis, near Paris.

The Church of Ste. Waudru is one of the finest in Belgium. It was founded in 1460, on the site of another church, burnt in 1169. More than a century elapsed ere the works were finished. The nave is a masterpiece of boldness, elegance, and lightness; the numerous columns which adorn it, and support innumerable Gothic arches at the top, compose a most delightful whole. Space will not permit us to enter further into detail in connection with the many curiosities of this church, save in allowing us to notice the splendid picture of the Exaltation of St. Francis, by Van Thulden; a Descent from the Cross, by Teniers; a Gothic altar, finely sculptured; the beautiful stained glass in the windows; and last, though not least, the fine statues, formerly adorning the screen, but happily preserved.

St. Nicholas en Havre, is noted for the severe and imposing aspect of the interior. It possesses some fine carving in wood.

From the tower of the Belfry a magnificent view of the surrounding country is obtained.

The Public Library is open every day; it contains 40,000 volumes, and about 300 manuscripts.

Hôtel de Ville is a Gothic edifice, erected in the year 1460. It contains nothing remarkable, but is the chief ornament of the Grande Place.

The Palais de Justice and Museum will well repay a visit.

Near the station is the statue of Leopold I., erected 1877. Another statue was erected on the promenade in 1853 to the composer Roland

Delattre, born here 1520. Equestrian statue of Baldwin, of Hainault, near the Vauxhall.

Mons is the centre of the largest coal district of Belgium, about three-fourths of the annual yield being obtained in this neighbourhood.

[At Mons a branch railway supplies a direct communication from Paris tc Charleroi, Namur, and Cologne. Mons to Paris, via Maubeuge, Aulnoye, Tergnier, &c. This is the newest and best route for those to whom time is an object. Express in 4 hours.]

MONS TO QUIÉVRAIN.-After leaving Mons, the railroad inclines at first towards the right, traversing an extensive plain, bounded on the left by the Panisel and the little hills of Flénu, and crowned by the high chimneys of numerous coal works. The canal from Mons to Condé, which, for a distance of five leagues, runs in a perfectly straight line, is seen on the left, as also the village of Cuesmes, the theatre of one of the most sanguinary episodes of the celebrated battle of Jemappes. Passing the levant of Flénu,

Jemappes (Station) is reached. Population, 4,670. It is remarkable for the victory gained by the French under General Dumourier, and the late Louis Philippe, when Duke de Chartres, over the Austrians, 1792. The village of Quaregnon is passed after leaving Jemappes; near to which are seen the ruins of the ancient tower, known by the name of the High Court. The railroad here takes a considerable bend, and shortly after runs into the straight line, which continues to the frontier. The country on each side is in high cultivation, and adorned with many beautiful country houses.

St. Ghislain (Station) is next reached, the church of which is on the right. On the left are the magnificent establishments of Hornu, founded by the late Mad. Degorges Legrand. St. Ghislain is a very ancient town; population, 1,800. The surrounding country very much resembles the neighbourhood of Manchester and Bolton. A branch rail goes off to Warquignies Station, near Mons.

Boussu (Station) is the next. The chief place of a canton; population, 3,500. The château of the Count de Caraman, at present the property of the Count de Nedonchelles, is here situated.

This architectural wonder should be seen by the tourist; there are many remarkable traditions connected with it. The station has been erected in a part of the magnificent park, from which it is separated by an ornamental iron railing. The church of Boussu contains some fine pieces of sculpture. Between Boussu and Thulin, the next station, there is nothing worthy of notice.

Quiévrain (Station) is arrived at shortly after leaving Thulin; it is the last station of the Belgian Railway. The office of the Belgian Custom House is here, and the baggage of parties entering Belgium is examined.

The town contains 3,030 inhabitants, carrying on an active commerce with France. It affords absolutely nothing worth special notice. This is the frontier station of the Southern Line and the point of junction with the Great Northern of France Railway.

Blanc Misseron (Station)---on French soil-is next met with; after which we enter

Valenciennes (Station).-Route 1.

Valenciennes to Paris by rail.

ROUTE 7A

Brussels to Paris by Charleroi,
Erquelinnes, and Creil.

Great Luxembourg Station, Quartier Leopold. Distance, 215 miles.

This route is considerably shorter than that by Mons and Valenciennes. On leaving Brussels the train passes through several cuttings; on emerging from which it arrives at

Boitsfort (Station), being the third station on the Luxembourg line, and three miles from Brussels. The village lies in a valley on the

border of the Forest of Soignies. It is the great resort of pleasure parties, as it contains several excellent restaurants and gardens, where provisions may be obtained at reasonable prices. There are some large sheets of water, well stocked with fish, but strictly preserved.

Groenendael (Station), 6 miles from Brussels, is situated in the heart of the Forest and conveyances may be got for Waterloo in one hour. Near the station may be seen the ruined foundations of a Priory, which once existed here, and

which must have been a large pile of building. It is now a Restaurant, with a beautiful garden, &c., much frequented in the summer.

La Hulpe (Station), 9 miles from Brussels, is a village of some importance. It was once a provincial town. From the station there is a fine view over a large sheet of water, towards the country seat of the Marquis de Bethune, which is a remarkably fine house, with extensive grounds. From the high ground above the station may be seen, on a clear day, the monumental Lion on the field of Waterloo.

Rixensart (Station). Château of Comte de Mérode.

Ottignies (Station) is 15 miles from Brussels, and forms the junction of the Charleroi and Louvain and the Manage and Wavre lines with that of the Luxembourg (as below). It has one common station for the three companies. There is a considerable animation and bustle here, owing to the change of trains by passengers and the goods traffic passing from one line to another.

Court St. Etienne (Station).-On leaving this station the traveller should remember that he is approaching one of the most singular and beautiful views in Belgium, viz.--The ruins of the Abbey le Villers.

Villers la Ville (Station).-The line passes through the garden of the Abbey, and generally so rapidly, that only a glimpse can be obtained of these magnificent ruins. The Tourist should therefore make an excursion expressly to visit them from Brussels, or alight at this station and take a subsequent train on to Paris; but the former course is the most pleasant. The Abbey le Villers founded 1147, is a most splendid, romantic, and

picturesque pile.

The best view of the ruins is from the terrace gardens beyond the railway; but it is difficult to say which excites the most admiration, the view from the heights around, or a walk through the ruins. No one can behold the refectory, the cloisters, the crypts, the breviary, and last the magnificent ruins of the beautiful Church, without feelings of delight and wonder. It is a scene of surpassing beauty, particularly in the effulgence of the noon day or setting sun.