and resided for several years. The population is chiefly engaged in the hemp and flax trade. Hotel de Ville of the 14th century, formerly the Cloth Hall. The church of Notre Dame, will

repay a visit. It is a low, old building, surmounted by an octagon tower, and contains a Crucifixion and Adoration of the Shepherds, by Van Dyck, and a Virgin and Saints, by Crayer. [From Termonde, a line of 94 miles goes off, via Grembergen and Hamme, to St. Nicolas (page 58).

From Baesrode (Station) near Termonde the State line, from Gand to Antwerp, goes to St. Amand, Puers, Boom, Contich, and Antwerp.]

Malderen (Station). A commune containing 1,700 inhabitants, situated at the extremity of the province of Brabant.

Capelle-au-Bois (Station). A little village of no importance. Leaving at a short distance from here the province of Brabant, we enter at Hombeck the province of Antwerp. Passing the ruins of the famous valley of Seliendael, we arrive at MECHLIN (Station)-French, Malines; German, Mecheln; Flemish, Mechelen.

The Malines station is fifteen minutes' walk from the town, which is one of the most picturesque Flemish cities. An obelisk is here erected to mark the point where the various Belgic lines of railway diverge to Brussels, Ghent, Antwerp, Liége. A line to Terneuzen (p. 25) was opened 1871. Population (1886), 48,460.

Hotels: Buda; de la Coupe; Beffer; Cheval d'Or; de la Grande Cigogne; Campine; Couronne; Buffet.

Mechlin is a large town in the province of Antwerp, divided by the Dyle into two parts. It is equidistant from Brussels, Antwerp, and Louvain. The streets are broad, and bordered in many places by good buildings.

The river Dyle passes through the town, and has an ebb and flow of tide for more than a league beyond Mechlin, in the direction of Louvain.

This town dates its origin as far back as the fifth century, and was long a subject of contention between the lords of Brabant and Flanders.

The Lace produced at Mechlin is considered second only to that of Brussels, from which it differs principally in being made in a single piece,

by means of bobbins, by which the entire patterns are produced at once, instead of being worked gradually by the hand; and hence it is stronger than the Brussels lace, though inferior to it in delicacy of workmanship.

The principal building of Mechlin is the Cathedral, which is the metropolitan church of Belgium. It is dedicated to St. Rumbold, who was assassinated by the Pagans, in 755, in the chapel of St. Stephen, which stood near the site of the present edifice. The cathedral was commenced in the latter part of the twelfth century, but was not finished until the year 1513. The choir is of 1366; the great nave of 1487. The tower was begun 1452; and the round Tower which surmounts the building, is almost entirely composed of buttresses, which give it, when seen from a distance, the appearance of a fragment of a colossal fluted column. It was built with the funds supplied by the offerings of the pilgrims, who came in crowds to Mechlin, to share the advantages of the jubilee and general indulgence proclaimed by Pope Nicholas V., on the occasion of the war in the East, which however terminated the very next year in the annihilation of the Eastern Empire, and the occupation of Constantinople by the Turks, under Mahomed. It was from this jubilee that the town acquired the name of "Malines l'heureuse," as it has since, from its great cleanliness, been named "Malines la propre," but it is now often called "la tranquille."

This tower, 325 feet high, has a clock face 144 feet in circumference. The view from the summit over the surrounding country is extensive, comprising the towns of Antwerp, Brussels, and Louvain. It was originally intended to surmount the tower by a vane of copper gilt, which would have increased the height nearly one-third but the project has never been put into execution, and the tower remains unfinished. The effect occasioned by the reflection of the moon on this tower, which gives it the appearance of being on fire, was the origin of the proverb of the wise men of Mechlin, who try to extinguish the moon; the bare mention of which, to an inhabitant of the town, would even now excite an irritation not easily to be appeased. The interior of the cathedral presents nothing worthy of notice except the altar-piece, which is by Van Dyck; its subject is

the Crucifixion. There are some other paintings. The exterior grand front is ornamented with several statues, amongst them are Faith, Hope, Charity, and the Apostles. Its carillons or Bells, which are noted, were constructed by Van der Gheyn, an artist of the eighteenth century, author of "Morceaux Fugués."

In the church of Notre Dame, behind the grand altar, is the Miraculous Draught of Fishes, painted by Rubens, expressly for the Guild of Fishmongers, and considered one of his finest productions. In the same church are also a few other pictures. The traveller must take care not to confound this church with that called Notre Dame d'Hanswyck, which is remarkable for its beautiful cupola, and also for its carved pulpit, representing the temptation and fall of Adam and Eve. This church owes its origin to a miraculous image of the Virgin, which floated in a boat against the stream, until it arrived at the spot where the church now stands, when it approached the bank and remained firm; on which a sacred edifice to enshrine the image was immediately built; and, according to the story, the image repaid the devotion of the inhabitants by performing numerous and stupendous miracles, which soon attracted pilgrims and offerings, sufficient to repay the to which they had put themselves. This purpose being answered, the image does not appear to have continued to exert its miraculous powers, for tradition relates that it was destroyed by sacrilegious hands, when the town was pillaged, as above mentioned.

expense

The church formerly belonging to the Jesuits, and still bearing their name, deserves attention for its handsome Gothic front, and also for a series of paintings, forming a history of St. Francis Xavier, the Indian Missionary.

In the church of St. John are four fine paintings, by Rubens, representing the Adoration of the Magi, the Birth of Christ, the Descent from the Cross, and the Resurrection. In the vestry is shown Rubens' receipt for 1,800 florins, paid him for the work. This church has also some fine wood sculpture, by Verhaegen, and a good pulpit, with a remarkable group by the sculptor, Duquesnoy.

The church of the Béguinage has some good paintings by Van Loon, Crayer, Quellyn, Boyer

mans, &c., and a splendid ivory crucifix said to be the work of Duquesnoy.

The church of St. Catharine is chiefly remarkable on account of its paintings, some of which are good, including an Adoration, by Moreels, held in high estimation by Rubens.

The Tribunal (restored) was the palace of Margaret of Austria.

The streets of Mechlin are wide and handsome, particularly that called Den Bruel, in which is the splendid Hotel belonging to the Commander of Pitzembourg, of the Teutonic order. It was inhabited both by Louis XIV. and Louis XV. The magnificent garden is now open to the public. Near the Antwerp Gate is a small convent of Béguines, which deserves attention.

Near the Town Hall (of the fifteenth century) are the statue of the Regent Margaret of Austria, and a Museum in the Schepenenhuis, containing civic antiquities (50 cents.). In and about the Ruc Serment de Fer are several fine old 16th century buildings, especially the Hotel Salm.

Mechlin also possesses a college, a public seminary, the catholic University, as well as some societies for the cultivation of literature and the fine arts. The principal articles manufactured here, in addition to the lace which has been before mentioned, are leather, jewellery, many kinds of woollen and cotton stuffs, hats, combs, pins, oil of colza, and flax. John Bol, one of the earliest miniature painters, and Michael Coxie, an historical painter and pupil of Raphael, and Frans Hals, were natives of this town. The boulevards replacing the ancient ramparts are the general rendezvous of the townspeople. There are two Fairs of fifteen days each, commencing the first Sunday after the 1st day of July, and the second on the 1st of October, for all kinds of mer

chandise; and on the Saint Saturday in October is a well-frequented horse and cattle fair.

On leaving this station for Brussels the rail crosses the Louvain Canal. The first station is Weerde, and near Eppeghem station, but scarcely visible, is the chateau of Rubens, at Steen, of which he was proprietor.

Vilvorde (Station). A small, healthy town, of 5,200 inhabitants, situated between Malines and Brussels. It is one of the most ancient in Belgium,

and is much visited by philanthropists desirous of inspecting the great prison or Penitentiary, built in the suburbs of the town. The Church of Vilvorde contains some exquisite carvings in wood. In this town, Tyndale, the first English translator of the Bible, suffered martyrdom in 1536, crying out, "Lord, open the King of England's eyes." The route on leaving the last station takes in the view of many beautiful country seats, spread along the banks of the canal leading to Brussels. To the right, as we approach Brussels, is seen the Palace of Laeken, belonging to the King of the Belgians, some time the residence of his sister, the widow of the Emperor Maximilian of Mexico. This palace was originally built for the Austrian Governor of the Netherlands. It was afterwards inhabited by Napoleon, and is remarkable as being the place where he planned his Russian campaign. It is enclosed by magnificent gardens and a park, in which Leopold II. has erected a large and handsome observatory. The late queen, Louise Marie, is buried here (1850). A statue of Leopold I. stands under a Gothic cross. A statue of Madame Malibran is erected in the cemetery at Laeken, where she is buried, her husband having brought her body from Manchester. The statue is by Geefs, and is placed in a kind of temple. A beautiful and lengthy avenue of trees (l'Allée Verte) extends from Laeken to Brussels. The railroad traverses the opposite side of the canal, and near the Botanical Gardens, opposite the Rue Neuve at the Port de Cologne, enters

BRUSSELS, see Route 6.

ROUTE 2.

Lille to Brussels.

Via Tournai, Ath, and Enghien.

From Lille to the French frontier at Baisieux (Douane) is only 7 miles, and three miles further on is Blandain, where is the Belgian Douane, From here it is only about four miles to Tournai, on nearing which a good view of the city is obtained. A beautiful coup d'œil is formed by the bridges, towers, houses, and rivers, all identified with some historical event. The new station is situated on the Boulevard des Nerviers, opposite the Place Crombez.

Tournai (Station). Flemish, Doornik. Hotels: De l'Impératrice; de la Petite Nef; des Neuf Provinces.

A fortified city, in Hainault, on the Scheld. The town itself is indifferently built, and has a gloomy aspect; it contains a population of | 33,775, who are engaged in the manufacture of Brussels carpets.

The Roman Civitas Nerviorum, afterwards Turnacum, it was the residence of Merovingian Kings. Henry VIII. captured Tournai in 1518, and bestowed it upon Cardinal Wolsey, who yielded it up to Francis I., and persuaded his royal master to sell the town to the French King, influenced by the promised interest of that monarch to obtain his elevation to the papacy. It was made over to Spain by the treaty of Madrid, 1525. Of the public buildings, the Cathedral (11th, 13th, and 14th centuries) is the most celebrated; it is one of the oldest and finest in the country. The sculptures of the portal are interesting. The choir is of a remarkably bold and striking nature; the pulpit is a gem, by Gilis, and the shrine of St. Eleu Marcus a masterpiece of workmanship in gold. There is also a beautiful gallery, by Lecroux, of Tournai, and four genii, the gems of the place, by Duquesnoy. The pictures are, a Purgatory, by Rubens, and a Crucifixion, by Jordaens.

The churches of St. Quentin, St. Piat, and St. Jacques are interesting specimens of the primitive Gothic style. The Church of St. Nicholas du Chateau is of remarkable architecture, and possesses some fine pictures.

The Public Library contains 20,000 volumes, and several curious illuminated manuscripts. The cabinet of natural history, in the museum at the Hotel de Ville, is worthy of notice. There are also some good paintings and fine ivory carvings, in a small gallery at the same place.

Five miles south-east of Tournai, to the right of the post road to Ath, is the battle-field of Fontenoy, seen immediately after passing the village of Bourquembrays. In this spot was fought the battle between the English, Dutch, and Austrians, commanded by the Duke of Cumberland, and the French under Marshal Saxe.

Quitting Tournai, the following stations, none of which is of any importance, are met with:

9,000. A town on the Dendre, 21 miles from Tournai. A terrible fire in 1433, a hurricane in 1600, and an earthquake in 1691, and other disastrous events, dismantled Ath of all her monuments, &c. St. Julien's Tower and the Parish Church alone escaped the conflagration. Ath has sustained many deadly sieges. The fortifications constructed in 1815 were afterwards much strengthened. A line goes down the Dendre to Grammont and Alost, past Lessines (Station); where a branch strikes off to Ollignies (Station), 34 miles, and Bassilly (Station), 6 miles. Another line is open via Vaudignies-Neufmaison (Station) to St. Ghislain (Station), page 47, near Blaton (Station). At Meslin l'Evêque, near Ath, the cultivation of the mulberry and silkworm has been introduced with much success. The Beloiel, 6 miles from Ath, not far from the road, is famous as the patrimonial estate of the Prince de Ligneillustrious in the triple capacity of diplomatist, soldier, and author. The château contains a fine collection of pictures and historical relics, and is usually open to visitors. At a short distance from Ath, on the direct line to Brussels, vid Hal (see below), is

Enghien (Station). A town containing about 4,000 inhabitants. The beautiful park and gardens surrounding the chateau of the Duke D'Aremberg, destroyed during the French Revolution, deserve notice.

[The old route to Brussels formerly passed by Maffles, Attre, Brugelette, Lens Stations, to Jurbise (Station). A small commune, with a population of 700 souls. It is about 8 miles from Mons by railway. (See Route 7).

one of the most renowned in Belgium; it is still well attended. The principal trade carried on is in the quarrying of the stone, known as that of Soignies. It gives name to the forest towards Waterloo.

Braine-le-Comte (Station).- Flemish, s'Graven Brakeel.-Hotel: De la Station. Pop., 7,220. A small ancient town of Hainault, in the district of Mons. It is said that Brennus, the Gaul, 391 years before Christ, founded a fortress and tower upon the site of the present church. The parish Church has a stone tabernacle at the choir, a fine piece of sculpture, but much

disfigured with gilding and painting. The front

of the convent of the Dominicans is an elegant structure. The manufactures are chiefly cotton spinning and lace thread spinning. On the right the line turns off to Charleroi and Namur; on the left to Enghein, Grammont, and Gand.

The surrounding district here is celebrated for the superiority of its flax, the best grown anywhere. It is employed in the manufacture of Brussels lace. To the north-west, a few miles

distant, is Steenkerke, the spot where the Duke of Luxembourg defeated William III., with a loss of 7,000 men, in 1692.

Quitting the last station, the railway pierces the tunnel of Braine-le-Comte, and enters a deep cutting, passing Heunuyères, a commune of the province of Hainault; and La Gennette, where Jean Jacques Rousseau died, in 1741; after which: it arrives at

Tubise (Station). A commune in the district of Nivellos, in the province of Brabant, with a population of 2,500 souls. Branch to Robecq.

Lembecq (Station). A town containing 2,300 inhabitants, with no objects of interest save its old chateau and its numerous distilleries. next Station is Hal (see below).]

The

The present Direct Line runs from Enghien through Saintes to Hal (Station).

Hotels: Des Pays Bas; Canal Charleroi; Belle Vue.

A pretty town of 9,400 inhabitants, built partly on the Senne, and on the canal Charleroi, having no objects of particular interest, save the church of St. Mary, celebrated as possessing a

miracle-working image of the Virgin. It is of wood, two feet high, and has acquired immense wealth by pious offerings, including gold plate given by Charles V., Maximilian I., Pope Julius II., &c. A side chapel contains 33 cannon balls, aimed, it is said, at the church, and caught by the Virgin in her mantle, which she had spread over the town to protect it during a bombardment. The high altar deserves special notice, it being one of the most beautiful in Belgium, made of marble, and sculptured, it would seem, by Italian artists. Below is the tabernacle, and underneath St. Martin dividing his cloak. The Seven Sacraments are represented on the bas-reliefs, admirable works of art, at the lower rows, and the entire construction is surmounted by a pelican. The gorgeous font, of brass, cast at Tournai, by the artist Lefevre, in 1467, is worth seeing. It is placed in the octagon baptistery of the church, and is covered with a spire, adorned by statues, and groups representing the Baptism of Christ, St. Martin, &c.

Leaving Hal, we pass the village of Eysingham, and crossing the Senne, arrive at

Loth (Station), about 5 miles from Brussels. It has a very fine church, richly ornamented, and having over the high altar a painting (the Martyrdom of St. Peter) by De Crayer.

Quitting Loth, the railway runs parallel with the canal Charleroi, passes Ruysbroeck and Forest stations, and arrives at the south station, entering Brussels-(Route 7).

ROUTE 3.

Travellers proceeding direct to Aix-la-Chapelle or Cologne, can only have their luggage examined at either of those places by having it booked through. The same applies to travellers going direct from London to Aix-la-Chapelle or Cologne. The station is outside the town.

Ostend (Station).-Hotels:

Hotel Fontaine, in town, highly recommended, very conveniently situated, near the sea and harbour. It has a splendid dining-room.

Hotel Continental.

Hotel Mertian, first-class house, open all the year. Grand Hotel du Littoral; first-class; well situated.

Hotel de la Plage, first-class hotel, between the new Kursaal and the King's Residence.

Great Ocean Hotel, first-class hotel, facing the sea and the Baths.

Grand Hotel du Kursaal et du Beau Site.
Grand Hotel du Phare.

Hotel de Belle Vue.

Hotel du Beau Rivage.

Hotel des Arcades; Imperial; Ship Hotel.

Hotel du Grand Café, well situated on the Place d'Armes.

Grand Hotel Marion, centrally situated.

Grand Hotel d'Ostende.

Hotel de Russie, very good.

Hotel Royal de Prusse.

Grand Hotel Cosmopolite.
Hotel de la Digue.

Hotel du Lion d'Or et Restaurant, Place d'Armes,

Direct Express, 9 hours.
London to Dover-(Route 1).

Mail steamers leave Dover for Ostend at 11 35 a.m. 3 0 and 10 0 p.m. The distance from port to port is 63 English miles, and the voyage is made in 4} to 5 hours. Express trains run in connection to Germany, Basle, the St. Gothard, &c. Fifteen miles south, the light of Dunkirk is seen, before the Ostend one shows itself.

The Custom House Office is quite close to the station, and open daily, early in the morning.

Luggage of travellers arriving by the mails at Ostend or Dover is examined at any hour by day or night.

Resident English Consul.

English Church Service.-In Rue Longue.

Ship Brokers.--Messrs. Perier and Son. Omnibus from station to town 50 cents.; Cab, 1 franc.

The Harbour of Ostend is formed by a natural inlet of the sea, which has forced a passage between two sand-hills. About 60,000 passengers pass yearly to and from England; and 3 to 4 million rabbits are exported in cases of 60 dozen. The celebrated oysters are sent in large quantities to France.

Ostend contains 22,600 inhabitants, and is placed between the sea and the harbour, being surrounded by water on every side. The land all