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and resided for several years. The population by means of bobbins, by which the entire patterns is chiefly engaged in the hemp and flax trade. are produced at once, instead of being worked Hotel de Ville of the 14th century, formerly the gradually by the hand; and hence it is stronger Cloth Hall. The church of Notre Dame, will than the Brussels lace, though inferior to it in repay à visit. It is a low, old building, sur- delicacy of workmanship. mounted by an octagon tower, and contains a The principal building of Mechlin is the CatheCrucifixion and Adoration of the Shepherds, by dral, which is the metropolitan church of Belgium. Van Dyck, and a Virgin and Saints, by Crayer. It is dedicated to St. Rumbold, who was assassin
[From Termonde, a line of 94 miles goes off, via ated by the Pagans, in 755, in the chapel of St. Grembergen and Hamme, to St. Nicolas Stephen, whieh stood near the site of the present (page 58)
edifice. The cathedral was commenced in the From Baesrode (Station) near Termonde the latter part of the twelfth century, but was not State line, from Gand to Antwerp, goes to St. finished until the year 1513. The choir is of 1366; Amand, Puers, Boom, Contich, and Ant- the great nave of 1487. The tower was begun werp.)
1452; and the round Tower which surmounts the Malderen (Station). A commune containing building, is almost entirely composed of buttresses, 1,700 inhabitants, situated at the extremity of the
which give it, when seen from a distance, the province of Brabant.
appearance of a fragment of a colossal fluted column. Capelle-au-Bois (Station). A little village of
It was built with the funds supplied by the no importance. Leaving at a short distance from offerings of the pilgrims, who came in crowds to here the province of Brabant, we enter at Hombeck Mechlin, to share the advantages of the jubilee the province of Antwerp. Passing the ruins of the and general indulgence proclaimed by Pope Nichfamous valley of Seliendael, we arrive at
olas V., on the occasion of the war in the East, MECHLIN (Station)-French, Malines; Ger- which however terminated the very next year in man, Mecheln; Flemish, Mechelen.
the annihilation of the Eastern Empire, and the The Malines station is fifteen minutes' walk occupation of Constantinople by the Turks, under from the town, which is one of the most pictur- Mahomed. It was from this jubilee that the town esque Flemish cities. An obelisk is here erected acquired the name of “Malines l'heureuse," as it to mark the point where the various Belgic lines
has since, from its great cleanliness, been named of railway diverge to Brussels, Ghent, Antwerp,
"Malines la propre,
" but it is now often called Liége. A line to Terneuzen (p. 25) was opened 1871.
"la tranquille.” Population (1886), 48,460.
This tower, 325 feet high, has a clock face 144 Hotels: Buda; de la Coupe; Beffer; Cheral d'Or;
feet in circumference. The view from the summit de la Grande Cigogne; Campine; Couronne; over the surrounding country is extensive, comBuffet.
prising the towns of Antwerp, Brussels, and Mechlin is a large town in the province of
Louvain. It was originally intended to surAntwerp, divided by the Dyle into two parts. It mount the tower by a vane of copper gilt, which is equidistant from Brussels, Antwerp, and Louvain. would have increased the height nearly one-third
The streets are broad, and bordered in many but the project has never been put into execution, places by good buildings.
and the tower remains unfinished. The effect The river Dyle passes through the town, and occasioned by the reflection of the moon on this has an ebb and flow of tide for more than a league tower, which gives it the appearance of being on fire, beyond Mechlin, in the direction of Louvain. was the origin of the proverb of the wise men of
This town dates its origin as far back as the fifth Mechlin, who try to extinguish the moon; tho century, and was long a subject of contention bare mention of which, to an inhabitant of the between the lords of Brabant and Flanders.
town, would even now excite an irritation not The Lace produced at Mechlin is considered easily to be appeased. The interior of the cathesecond only to that of Brussels, from which it dral presents nothing worthy of notice except the differs principally in being made in a single piece, ) altar-piece, which is by Van Dyck; its subject is
the Crucifixion. There are some other paintings. mans, &c., and a splendid ivory crucifix said to be The exterior grand front is ornamented with the work of Duquesnoy. several statues, amongst them are Faith, Hope, The church of St. Catharine is chiefly remarkCharity, and the Apostles. Its carillons or Bells, able on account of its paintings, some of which which are noted, were constructed by Van der are good, including an Adoration, by Moreels, held Gheyn, an artist of the eighteenth century, in high estimation by Rubens. author of "Morceaux Fugués."
The Tribunal (restored) was the palace of In the church of Notre Dame, behind the grand Margaret of Austria. altar, is the Miraculous Draught of Fishes, painted
The streets of Mechlin are wide and handsome, by Rubens, expressly for the Guild of Fishmongers, particularly that called Den Bruel, in which is and considered one of his finest productions. In
the splendid Hotel bel nging to the Commander the same church are also a few other pictures.
of Pitzembourg, of the Teutonic order. It was The traveller must take care not to confound
inhabited both by Louis XIV. and Louis XV. this
church with that called Notre Dame The magnificent garden is now open to the public. d'Hansuyck, which is remarkable for its beautiful Near the Antwerp Gatc is a small convent of cupola, and also for its carved pulpit, representing Béguines, which deserves attention. the temptation and fall of Adam and Eve. This Near the Town Hall (of the fifteenth century) church owes its origin to a miraculous image of
are the statue of the Regent Margaret of Austria, the Virgin, which floated in a boat against the and a Museum in the Schepenenhuis, containing stream, until it arrived at the spot where the civic antiquities (50 cents.). In and about the Rue church now stands, when it approached the bank
Serment de Fer are several fine old 16th century and remained firm; on which a sacred edifice to buildings, especially the Hotel Salm. enshrine the image was immediately built; and, Mechlin also possesses a college, a public semiaccording to the story, the image repaid the devo- nary, the catholic University, as well as somo tion of the inhabitants by performing numerous
societies for the cultivation of literature and the and stupendous miracles, which soon attracted pil
fine arts. The principal articles manufactured grims and offerings, sufficient to repay the expense
here, in addition to the lace which has been before to which they had put themselves. This purpose mentioned, are leather, jewellery, many kinds of being answered, the image does not appear to have woollen and cotton stuffs, hats, combs, pins, oil of continued to exert its miraculous powers, for tradi- colza, and flax. John Bol, one of the earliest tion relates that it was destroyed by sacrilegious miniature painters, and Michael Coxie, an hands, when the town was pillaged, as above
historical painter and pupil of Raphael, and mentioned.
Frans Hals, were natives of this town. The The church formerly belonging to the Jesuits, boulevards replacing the ancient ramparts are and still bearing their name, deserves attention the general rendezvous of the townspeople. There for its handsome Gothic front, and also for a are two Fairs of fifteen days each, comiencing the series of paintings, forming a history of St. Francis first Sunday after the 1st day of July, and the Xavier, the Indian Missionary.
second on the 1st of October, for all kinds of mer
chandise; and on the Saint Saturday in October In the church of St. John are four fine paintings, by
is a well-frequented horse and cattle fair. Rubens, representing the Adoration of the Magi, the Birth of Christ, the Descent from the Cross, On leaving this station for Brussels the rail and the Resurrection. In the restry is shown crosses the Louvain Canal. The first station is Rubens' receipt for 1,800 florins, paid him for the Weerde, and near Eppeghem station, but scarcely work. This church has also some fine wood visible, is the chateau of Rubens, at Steen, of sculpture, by Verhaegen, and a good pulpit, with which he was proprietor. a remarkable group by the sculptor, Duquesnoy.
Vilvorde (Station). A small, healthy town, of The church of the Béguinage has some good 5,200 inhabitants, situated between Malines and paintings by Van Loon, Crayer, Quellyn, Boyer- | Brussels. It is one of the most ancient in Belgium,
and is much visited by philanthropists desirous of Tournai (Station). Flemish, Doornik. inspecting the great prison or Penitentiary, built Hotels: De l'Impératrice; de la Petite Nef; des in the suburbs of the town. The Church of Vil- Neuf Provinces. vorde contains some exquisite carvings in wood. A fortified city, in Hainault, on the Scheld. In this town, Tyndale, the first English translator The town itself is indifferently built, and has of the Bible, suffered martyrdom in 1536, crying a gloomy aspect; it contains a population of out, “Lord, open the King of England's eyes." 33,775, who are engaged in the manufacture of The route on leaving the last station takes in
Brussels carpets. the view of many beautiful country seats, spread The Roman Civitas Nerviorum, afterwards Turalong the banks of the canal leading to Brussels. nacum, it was the residence of Merovingian Kings. To the right, as we approach Brussels, is seen the Henry VIII. captured Tournai in 1518, and bePalace of Laeken, belonging to the King of the stowed it upon Cardinal Wolsey, whọ yielded it Belgians, some time the residence of his sister, the up to Francis I., and persuaded his royal master widow of the Emperor Maximilian of Mexico. This to sell the town to the French King, influenced by palace was originally built for the Austrian the promised interest of that monarch to obtain Governor of the Netherlands. It was afterwards his elevation to the papacy. It was made over to inhabited by Napoleon, and is remarkable as being Spain by the treaty of Madrid, 1525. Of the public the place where he planned his Russian campaign. buildings, the Cathedral (11th, 13th, and 14th It is enclosed by magnificent gardens and a park, centuries) is the most celebrated; it is one of in which Leopold II. has erected a large and the oldest and finest in the country. The sculptures handsome observatory. The late queen, Louise of the portal are interesting. The choir is of a Marie, is buried here (1850). A statue of Leopold I. remarkably bold and striking nature; the pulpit stands under a Gothic cross. A statue of Madame is a gem, by Gilis, and the shrine of St. Eleu Malibran is erected in the cemetery at Laeken, Marcus a masterpiece of workmanship in gold. where she is buried, her husband having brought There is also a beautiful gallery, by Lecroux, of her body from Manchester. The statue is by Geefs, Tournai, and four genii, the gems of the place, and is placed in a kind of temple. A beautiful ) by Duquesnoy. The pictures are, a Purgatory, and lengthy avenue of trees (l'Allée Verte) extends by Rubens, and a Crucifixion, by Jordaens. from Laeken to Brussels. The railroad traverses
The churches of St. Quentin, St. Piat, and St. the opposite side of the canal, and near the Botani- Jacques are interesting specimens of the primitive cal Gardens, opposite the Rue Neuve at the Port Gothic style. The Church of St. Nicholas du Chade Cologne, enters
teau is of remarkable architecture, and possesses BRUSSELS, see Route 6.
some fine pictures.
The Public Library contains 20,000 volumes, and ROU TE 2. several curious illuminated manuscripts.
The Lille to Brussels.
cabinet of natural history, in the museum at
the Hotel de Ville, is worthy of notice. There Via Tournai, Ath, and Enghien.
are also some good paintings and fine ivory From Lille to the French frontier at Baisieux carvings, in a small gallery at the same place. (Douane) is only 7} miles, and three miles Five miles south-east of Tournai, to the right further on is Blandain, where is the Belgian of the post road to Ath, is the battle-field of FonDouane, From here it is only about four miles to tenoy, seen immediately after passing the village Tournai, on nearing which a good view of the of Bourquembrays. In this spot was fought the city is obtained. A beautiful coup d'oeil is formed battle between the English, Dutch, and Austrians, by the bridges, towers, houses, and rivers, all commanded by the Duke of Cumberland, and identified with some historical event. The new the French under Marshal Saxe. station is situated on the Boulevard des Nerviers, Quitting Tournai, the following stations, none opposite the Place Crombez.
of which is of any importance, are met with:
Havinnes, Bary-Maulde, Leuze (where the one of the most renowned in Belgium; it is still lines from Renaix and Mons come in), and Ligne. well attended. The principal trade carried on is After which we arrive at
in the quarrying of the stone, known as that of Ath (Station)-Inn: Duquesne. Population, | Soignies. It gives name to the forest towards 9,000. A town on the Dendre, 21 miles from Waterloo. Tournai. A terrible fire in 1433, a hurricane in
Braine-le-Comte (Station).- Flemish, s'Gra1600, and an earthquake in 1691, and other disas
ven Brakeel.--Hotel: De la Station. Pop., 7,220. trous events, dismantled Ath of all her monuments,
A small ancient town of Hainault, in the district &c. St. Julien's Tower and the Parish Church
of Mons. It is said that Brennus, the Gaul, alone escaped the conflagration. Ath has sustained
391 years before Christ, founded a fortress many deadly sieges. The fortifications constructed
and tower upon the site of the present church. in 1815 were afterwards much strengthened. A line
The parish Church has a stone tabernacle goes down the Dendre to Grammont and Alost,
at the choir, a fine piece of sculpture, but much past Lessines (Station); where a branch strikes off to Ollignies (Station), 3} miles, and Bassilly disfigured with gilding and painting. The front
of the convent of the Dominicans is an elegant (Station), 6} miles. Another line is open via
structure. The manufactures are chiefly cotton Vaudignies-Neufmaison (Station) to St. Ghislain (Station), page 47, near Blaton spinning and lace thread spinning. On the right
the line turns off to Charleroi and Namur; on (Station). At Meslin l'Evêque, near Ath, the
the left to Enghein, Grammont, and Gand. cultivation of the mulberry and silkworm has been
The surrounding district here is celebrated for introduced with much success. The Beloiel, 6
the superiority of its flax, the best grown anymiles from Ath, not far from the road, is famous
where. It is employed in the manufacture of as the patrimonial estate of the Prince de Ligne
Brussels lace. To the north-west, a few miles illustrious in the triple capacity of diplomatist, distant, is Steenkerke, the spot where the Duke soldier, and author. The château contains a fine
of Luxembourg defeated William III., with a loss collection of pictures and historical relics, and is
of 7,000 men, in 1692. usually open to visitors. At a short distancefrom
Quitting the last station, the railway pierces Ath, on the direct line to Brussels, við Hal (see
the tunnel of Braine-le-Comte, and enters a deep below), is
Enghien (Station). A town containing about cutting, passing Heunuyères, a commune of the 4,000 inhabitants. The beautiful park and gardens province of Hainault; and La Gennette, where
Jean Jacques Rousseau died, in 1741; after which surrounding the chateau of the Duke D'Aremberg,
it arrives at destroyed during the French Revolution, deserve
Tubise (Station). A commune in the district notice. [The old route to Brussels formerly passed by
of Nivellos, in the province of Brabant, with a Maffles, Attre, Brugelette, Lens Stations, population of 2,500 souls. Branch to Robecq. to Jurbise (Station). A small commune, with a
Lembecą (Station). A town containing 2,300
inhabitants, with no objects of interest save its population of 700 souls. It is about 8 miles from
old chateau and its numerous distilleries. The Mons by railway. (See Route 7).
next Station is Hal (see below).] Soignies (Station). Hotels: Del’Ange; des Voyageurs; des Trois Rois.
The present Direct Line runs from Enghien The chief town of a canton of the province of through Saintes to Hainault, on the Senne, in the district of Mons,
Hal (Station). with a pop. of 8,000. Its origin is ancient. The Hotels: Des Pays Bas; Canal Charleroi; Belle church of St. Vincent is believed to be the most Vue. ancient in Belgium; from its shape, and the A pretty town of 9,400 inhabitants, built style of its architecture, it is certainly one of the partly on the Senne, and on the canal Charleroi, most curious. The beautifully sculptured stalls having no objects of particular interest, save the are worthy of notice. The College of Soigvies is church of St. Mary, celebrated as possessing a
miracle-working image of the Virgin. It is of Travellers proceeding direct to Aix-la-Chapelle wood, two feet high, and has acquired immense or Cologne, can only have their luggage examined wealth by pious offerings, including gold plate at either of those places by having it booked given by Charles V., Maximilian I., Pope Julius through. The same applies to travellers going II., &c. A side chapel contains 33 cannon balls, direct from London to Aix-la-Chapelle or Cologne. aimed, it is said, at the church, and caught by The station is outside the town. the Virgin in her mantle, which she had spread Ostend (Station).-Hotels: over the town to protect it during a bombardment. Hotel Fontaine, in town, highly recommended, The high altar deserves special notice, it being
very conveniently situated, near the sea and harone of the most beautiful in Belgium, made of
bour. It has a splendid dining-room. marble, and sculptured, it would seem, by Italian
Hotel Continental. artists. Below is the tabernacle, and underneath
Hotel Mertian, first-class house, open all the year. St. Martin dividing his cloak. The Seven Sacra
Grand Hotel du Littoral; first-class; well ments are represented on the bas-reliefs, admirable
situated. works of art, at the lower rows, and the entire
Hotel de la Plage, first-class hotel, between the construction is surmounted by a pelican. The
new Kursaal and the King's Residence. gorgeous font, of brass, cast at Tournai, by the artist Lefevre, in 1467, is worth seeing. It is
Great Ocean Hotel, first-class hotel, facing the placed in the octagon baptistery of the church, and
sea and the Baths. is covered with a spire, adorned by statues, and
Grand Hotel du Kursaal et du Beau Site.
Grand Hotel du Phare. groups representing the Baptism of Christ, St.
Hotel de Belle Vue.
Hotel du Beau Rivage. and crossing the Senne, arrive at
Hotel des Arcades; Imperial; Ship Hotel. Loth (Station), about 5 miles from Brussels. Hotel du Grand Café, well situated on the Place It has a very fine church, richly ornamented, and d'Armes. having over the high altar a painting (the Martyr- Grand Hotel Marion, centrally situated. dom of St. Peter) by De Crayer.
Grand Hotel d'Ostende. Quitting Loth, the railway, runs parallel with Hotel de Russie, very good. the canal Charleroi, passes Ruysbroeck and Forest Hotel Royal de Prusse. stations, and arrives at the south station, entering Grand Hotel Cosmopolite. Brussels-(Route 7).
Hotel de la Digue.
Hotel du Lion d'Or et Restaurant, Place d'Armes,
Resident English Consul. Direct Express, 9f hours.
English Church Service.--In Rue Longue, London to Dover(Route 1).
Ship Brokers.--Messrs. Perier and Son. Mail steamers leave Doverfor Ostend at 11 35 a.m. Omnibus from station to town 50 cents.; Cab, ? 30 and 10 0 p.m. The distance from port to port is franc. 63 English miles, and the voyage is made in 4} The Harbour of Ostend is formed by a natural to 5 hours. Express trains run in connection to inlet of the sea, which has forced a passage between Germany, Basle, the St. Gothard, &c. Fifteen two sand-hills. About 60,000 passengers pass miles south, the light of Dunkirk is seen, before the yearly to and from England; and 3 to 4 million Ostend one shows itself.
rabbits are exported in cases of 60 dozen. The The Custom House Office is quite close to the celebrated oysters are sent in large quantities to station, and open daily, early in the morning. France.
Luggage of travellers arriving by the mails at Ostend contains 22,600 inhabitants, and is Ostend or Dover is examined at any hour by day placed between the sea and the harbour, being or night.
surrounded by water on every side. The land all