90 THE OXEN INTRACTABLE. hundred and fifty yards in advance, I fired at the leading animal (which proved a fine full-grown female), and had the satisfaction to see it drop to the shot. On going up to my prize, I found that the ball-a conical one-had passed clean through both shoulders; and this was, perhaps, somewhat remarkable, as the gun-barrel was smooth in the bore. Having carefully removed the skin, with the head attached to it, I set to work to quarter the flesh, which was rather a laborious task. Though it was winter (January), the day was oppressively hot, and the leafless thorn-trees afforded no shelter against the burning rays of the sun. I suffered excessively from thirst, and, unfortunately, the wagons did not overtake me till after sunset. The Damaras yelled with delight at the sight of the oryx. They had a glorious gorge that night, and the return of daylight found them still at their feast! With the exception of a heavy thunder-storm, accompanied by a deluge of rain, our journey to Barmen was marked by no further incident worth recording. We reached it in safety on the 9th of January, 1851, after seven days' travel, half of which time would have been sufficient under ordinary circumstances; but we had experienced very considerable difficulties in getting our wagons forward. The oxen pulled well enough so long as the country was level; but the moment they had to face a hill, they came to a stand, and no amount of flogging would induce them to move. When the whip was applied, it only produced a furious bellowing, kicking, tossing of heads, switching of tails, and so forth. On such occasions they would not unfrequently twist themselves entirely round in the yoke, and it often took a whole hour to put them to rights again. On account of the thick wood, and general ruggedness of the country, the dry beds of periodical water-courses afford the only really practicable road. On the approach of the rainy-season, however, these are not always safe; for, when in imagined security, the traveler may, perhaps, all at once find himself in the midst of a foaming torrent. If the oxen are not welltrained, most serious results are to be dreaded. There are many instances of wagons with their teams having been thus surprised and swept away. Our fears on this head, therefore, were not quieted until we were in full view of the missionaryhouse at Barmen. Indeed, it was high time; for on the third day of our arrival there, the Swakop sent down its mighty flood. The first showers of rain, it should be remarked, usually fall REFRACTORY SERVANTS. 91 as early as September and October, but the rainy-season does not fairly set-in until December and January. A letter from Jonker Afrikaner was awaiting our arrival, expressing a wish that Mr. Galton, in person, would pay him an early visit, that they might confer together on the affairs of the country. My friend was, at first, a little undecided how to act, as it might only have been a ruse of the crafty chief to entrap him. However, as under every circumstance it would be better to know his real intentions than to be kept in constant uncertainty and suspense, he determined, as soon as circumstances permitted, to comply with Jonker's desire. When we bade farewell to Richterfeldt, it was in the firm conviction that the principal obstacles to the expedition had been removed; but we were sadly mistaken. Under different pretexts, the natives whom we had engaged suddenly refused to proceed any further. Even the man who had first drawn our attention to the lake Omanbondè, and who seemed to be the only one acquainted with it, threatened to leave us. Our Cape servants, also, became somewhat sulky and discontented. Indeed, two of them, Gabriel and John Waggoner, whom the reader will remember as having already given us some trouble, demanded and obtained their dismissal. Thus circumstanced, it was out of the question to think of immediately carrying our plan into execution. We felt excessively annoyed, and our stock of patience was well nigh exhausted. Still we did not give up all hope of ultimate success. Barmen, however, was ill-suited as an encampment; for, though agreeable enough as a residence for ourselves, grass for the cattle was scarce and distant. Mr. Hahn advised us to push on to Schmelen's Hope, situated at about fifteen miles to the northward, where, inasmuch as there had not been any natives dwelling of late, we should find abundance of pasturage. Accordingly, we acted on his suggestion, and in the afternoon of the 13th of January were established at that place. CHAPTER XI. SCHMELEN'S HOPE-SCENERY-MISSIONARY STATION-RAID OF THE NAMAQUAS- INGRATITUDE OF THE NATIVES-JONKER'S FEUD WITH KAHICHENÈ; HIS BARBARITIES; HIS TREACHERY-MR. GALTON DEPARTS FOR EIKHAMS-AUTHOR'S SUCCESSFUL SPORTING EXCURSIONS HECAPTURES A YOUNG STEINBOK AND A KOODOO-THEY ARE EASILY DOMESTICATED— HYÆNAS VERY TROUBLESOME; SEVERAL DESTROYED BY SPRING-GUNS— THE LATTER DESCRIBED-VISIT FROM A LEOPARD; IT WOUNDS A DOG; CHASE AND DEATH OF THE LEOPARD THE CARACAL. SCHMELEN'S HOPE is picturesquely situated on the right bank of the Little Swakop and just at the confluence of one of its tributaries, the banks of which were lined with majestic trees of the mimosa and the acacia family. Some of these were now in full bloom, and presented an interesting and beautiful appearance. Heavy showers of rain, moreover, having lately fallen, the grateful earth acknowledged the tribute by rapidly sending forth her boundless store of aromatic herbs and plants "Herbs for man's use of various power, The whole aspect of the country changed as if by magic, and I gazed on the altered features of the landscape in rapture and amazement. It strongly reminded me of the Psalmist's words "His rains from heaven parch'd hills recruit, And nature's lap can hold no more." Schmelen's Hope (Schmelen's Vervachtung) is so called, partly on account of its advanced position, and partly in honor of its MISSIONARY STATION. 93 founder, the Rev. Mr. Schmelen, who, by all accounts, was one of the most gifted and most enterprising of missionaries that ever set foot on African soil. For a time, this station was occupied by Mr. Hahn; and, recently, by his colleague, Mr. Kolbé. About the time that we landed at Walfisch Bay, however, the latter had found it necessary to beat a precipitate retreat, in consequence of an attack upon the station by a party of Namaquas. Shortly after Mr. Kolbé's settlement at Schmelen's Hope, he was joined by Kahichenè-of whom mention has been made in the foregoing pages-and a considerable number of his tribe. They continued to live here in the most unsuspecting security. The missionary cause made considerable progress, and hopes were really entertained that Damara-land might eventually be civilized. The golden visions of a happy future for this unfortunate country were, however, speedily dispersed by the sudden appearance of a party of Namaquas, under the immediate command of Jonker Afrikaner. By this band, a great number of the natives were massacred; a considerable booty of cattle was carried off; and Kahichenè, himself, had a hair-breadth escape. Just as he was making good his retreat, he was observed and followed by a mounted Namaqua. On finding himself hard pressed, and that it was impossible to avoid his pursuer, the chief turned quickly round, and the next instant, with a poisoned arrow, laid the man dead at his feet. Many acts of great cruelty were perpetrated on this occasion, of which the following may be cited. Several Damaras had taken refuge on the summit of an isolated rock, eighty or ninety feet in height. As soon as the Namaquas perceived them, they coolly seated themselves round the base; and, whenever any of the poor fellows peeped forth from their hiding-places, they were shot down like so many crows. Mr. Galton and myself visited the spot soon after our arrival at Schmelen's Hope, and saw the bleached bones of the victims scattered about; but we were unable to ascertain the exact number of people killed, as the jackals and hyænas had carried away and demolished many parts of the skeletons. Though no direct attack was made on the missionary station, on this occasion, Mr. Kolbè, nevertheless, considered it would be imprudent to remain there any longer. Accordingly, packing the most valuable of his goods on his wagon, he hurriedly departed for Barmen. A few days afterwards, some fugitive Damaras returned to the place of their misfortunes, and, on finding the house aban 94 JONKER'S FEUD WITH KAHICHENÈ. doned, they were base enough to despoil it of its contents. Moreover, what they could not themselves use, they wantonly destroyed or scattered about on the ground. On our arrival at Schmelen's Hope, therefore, we found nothing remaining but the mere shell of the house. This, though simply constructed of clay, and thatched with reeds, was rather neatly executed, and had apparently, at one time, been the exterior of a comfortable dwelling. Water was obtained from a large pool or vley, which, however, in very arid years, might dry away. About five miles up the Swakop was, moreover, a rather copious fountain, called Okandu, where cattle might drink. Generally speaking, if they have a chance of obtaining cattle, the Namaquas are not at all nice as to whether they rob friend or foe. On this particular occasion, however, they were supposed to have had an old grudge against Kahichenè and his tribe. Once, as Jonker and a large party of his followers were on the way to Walfisch Bay, their provisions failed them; and hearing that Kahichenè, with whom they were then on friendly terms, was in the neighborhood, they bent their steps towards his kraal. Kahichenè received them civilly, but refused to supply their wants. He, however, advised Jonker to help himself to cattle from another Damara chief, who, he said (though without any kind of foundation), was their mutual enemy. Jonker did not wait to be told twice, but immediately attacked this man's kraal. In the fight that ensued, some of Kahichene's people were accidentally killed; but he, believing the slaughter had been intentionally perpetrated, made a furious onset on Jonker that very night. As usually happens, however, and, perhaps, in some degree owing to the Damaras having fewer guns than the Namaquas, he was beaten off with very severe loss. Though the affair was afterwards made up between the chiefs, Jonker, in his heart, never forgave Kahichenè's attack upon him, which he looked upon as a breach of faith. In all the attacks of the Namaquas, the most atrocious barbarities were committed. The men were unmercifully shot down; the hands and the feet of the women lopped off; the bowels of the children ripped up, etc.; and all this to gratify a savage thirst for blood. Many poor creatures have I myself seen dragging out a miserable existence, that had thus been deprived of limbs, or otherwise cruelly mutilated. Jonker himself would seem to have been callous to all the better feelings of our nature. News having been brought to |