70

EXCESSIVE HEAT.

gether in this way, or on carcasses which the lion has not had time to devour before the return of day, when it is his habit to retire to his lair.

But it is not always that the attempt to deprive the lion of his prey succeeds as well as in the instance just mentioned. Generally speaking, indeed, if he be famishing with hunger, he turns upon his assailants, and many a man has thus lost his life. One often meets with individuals, either mutilated, or bearing dreadful scars, the result of wounds received in such encounters.

The heat had by this time become almost insupportable, and it was only with great inconvenience that a person could move about after the sun was a few hours above the horizon. Even the cattle were dreadfully distressed. As early as eight o'clock in the morning they would leave off grazing, in order to seek shelter under some tree or bush against the scorching rays of the sun.

Every afternoon regularly at two o'clock, we had a strong breeze from the westward. Strange to say, however, this, though coming from the sea, instead of cooling the atmosphere, only tended to increase its oppressiveness. We experienced precisely the same sensation as when standing before the mouth of a heated oven. The quicksilver rose to such a height as almost to make us doubt our own eyes. Even at Scheppmansdorf-which is situated less than twenty miles, as the crow flies, from the sea, and where there is almost always a refreshing breeze-the thermometer, at noon, in an airy situation, and in the shade, rises, for many days together, to 110 degrees of Fahrenheit!

In consequence of the fiery state of the atmosphere, every article of horn or wood shrank and contracted most surprisingly. Even the gun-stocks, made of the best English walnut, lost an eighth of an inch of their original solidity. The ink dried in the pen almost the instant it left the stand."

Captain Sturt, who, in his explorations in Australia, seems to have experienced the same heat in even a greater degree, says

"The mean of the thermometer for the months of December, January, and February, had been 101, 104, and 105 degrees respectively, in the shade. Under its effects, every screw in our boxes had been drawn, and the horn handles of our instruments, as well as our combs, were split into fine lamina. The lead dropped out of our pencils and our signal rockets were entirely spoiled; our hair, as well as the wool on the sheep, ceased to grow, and our nails had become brittle as glass. The flour lost more than eight per cent. of its original weight, and the other provisions in still greater proportion." In another part of his narrative, this

TROOP OF ZEBRAS.

71

Our wagons, moreover, which, on leaving Scheppmansdorf, were in excellent order, were now quite infirm. The spokes and the tires became loose and the felloes and naves exhibited large gaps and fissures. To save them, however, as much as possible, we set about making a shed of reeds and rushes, strongly bound together by cords and light-wooden sticks.

As soon as this was finished I began my preparations for visiting Galton at Barmen; and, as Mr. Schöneberg was also anxious to make the acquaintance of Mr. Hahn, his intended colleague, it was agreed that we should travel together. On the day appointed, we set out mounted on oxen, and accompanied by a Hottentot as guide and interpreter. Besides his native tongue, this man spoke Dutch and Damara fluently. One or two natives were also engaged to drive, and to assist in packing the oxen.

As usual, I rode "Spring," and Mr. Schöneberg an ox lent to him by Mr. Rath; but, unfortunately, the latter animal turned very vicious, and before we had proceeded many hundred yards, I saw my friend pitched, head foremost, into the moist bed of the Swakop. On rising from his uncomfortable berth, the Rev. gentleman looked very blank and crest-fallen; and nothing could again induce him to remount the brute. Being, however, anxious to prosecute the journey, I made him an offer of my own ox, which was gratefully accepted.

After this little mishap, all went on well for a while. Unfortunately, however, in an unguarded moment, I, too, was doomed to be "un-oxed," to the great delight and amusement of my companion. Confiding in his superior skill in managing a refractory ox, our guide now generously exchanged with me. Notwithstanding his boasting, he was as unfortunate as ourselves; for, in the course of half an hour, he had twice bitten the dust.

Nothing daunted, however, he mounted a third time, and ultimately succeeded in convincing the animal that he was determined to be master.

In the course of the day we suddenly came upon a troop of zebras. Quickly dismounting I took a running shot at them, as they were disappearing in the brushwood, and had the good fortune to bring a fine male dead to the ground. Immediately "off-saddling," we helped ourselves to the best parts of the

enterprising explorer mentions the quicksilver once to have risen to 132 degrees in the shade, the thermometer being placed in the fork of a tree, five feet from the ground!

72

THE MISSIONARY S

WAIL.

meat, leaving the rest to one of our Damaras, who thought a "tuck-out" of flesh-as Hans would have called it-preferable to a wearisome journey to Barmen.

The flesh of the zebra, or "wild horse," as the Dutch call it, is eatable, but by no means good; for, besides possessing a very strong odor and peculiar flavor, it has a very oily taste. With plenty of pepper and salt, however, a steak is not to be despised by the hungry traveler.

The heat, throughout the day, had been terrific. Before the sun had well disappeared behind the mountains, between which we traveled, Mr. Schöneberg was completely knocked up, and we were obliged to encamp for the night. Each of us carried a small tin water-can; but, instead of having it filled, as I did, with the pure liquid, Mrs. Rath had kindly, but unwisely, provided her friend with a mixture of water, sugar, and cinnamon. This, as may be supposed, only served to increase his thirst.

We had hardly finished removing the packs and saddles from our tired steeds, before the poor missionary threw himself despondingly on the ground, exclaiming "Ah! Mr. Andersson, if we were to tell people in Europe what we suffer here, none would believe us." ." I could not help smiling at this burst of despair; for, though from the heat, the day had been distressing enough, we had by no means suffered either from want of water or food. Poor Mr. Schöneberg! he was totally unfit for the hardships he must necessarily encounter in the African deserts. Indeed, not many weeks afterwards, he all but perished from his inability to endure thirst for a short period.

The next morning at daybreak we were again in the saddle. Our course was northerly, and a little by east; and the greater part of the road lay some distance from the Swakop, which, at one point, forced its way through a narrow, picturesque and bold gorge.

In one place we passed at the foot of "Scheppman's mountain," so called from a melancholy event which occurred here a few years ago. A missionary named Scheppman had made the ascent to obtain a view of the surrounding country; but, in descending, the cock of his gun was caught by a bough, and the contents were lodged in one of his legs. After having suffered agonies for a few days, he expired, and the hill has ever since gone by his name.

The vegetation was more rank than in the parts we had previously traversed. In the course of the day, we crossed the dry beds of several large, sandy, and periodical streams, which were all tributaries to the Swakop. The country near these

THE

KAMEEL-DOORN-BUXTON FOUNTAIN.

73

stream was thickly studded with splendid forests of the gigantic and park-like acacia, known to the Dutch as the "kameeldoorn," or giraffe thorn (acacia giraffe). This tree derives its name from its constituting the favorite and principal food of the beautiful cameleopard. On account of its immense size and peculiar growth-having the foliage disposed from the top downwards in umbrella-shaped masses-it is a great ornament to the country; but, strange to say, it is invariably found only in arid districts.

The "kameel-doorn" is evidently of very slow growth, and requires, probably, many hundred years to arrive at maturity. The grain is, therefore, very close, and the wood is so heavy, that, after being dried for years, it will sink when thrown into the water. Our northern oak can in no wise be compared with it as regards hardness and solidity. The grain is, however, rather short, and the wood consequently brittle. Notwith standing this defect, it is very strong, and is extensively used for building purposes and implements of husbandry. It is, moreover, almost the only wood strong enough for the axle-trees of wagons. Tools of the best materials, however, are indispensable in working it. I have seen many a well-tempered axe and adze blunted and spoiled when brought in contact with it. The outer part of the tree is of a whitish color; but the heart is reddish-brown, not unlike mahogany, and capable of a high polish.

It is in the branches of this acacia, mentioned by several South African travelers, that the social gross-beak (loxia socia) chiefly constructs its interesting and singular nest.

Through the stupidity and mismanagement of our guide, who apparently knew but little of the road, we missed a wateringplace where we were to have halted, and, in consequence, suffered extremely from thirst. Mr. Schöneberg, moreover, had been very unwell during the day; and, when we arrived at the end of the stage-which was not until seven o'clock at nighthe was even more fatigued and exhausted than on the preceding evening.

We bivouacked by the side of " Buxton Fountain"-so called in honor of the late Sir Thomas Fowell Buxton, from whom and his family, if I am rightly informed, Mrs. Hahn had experienced much kindness. It is a hot spring; and the water, which flows out of a granite rock, is nearly of a boiling temperature, and has a brackish and disagreeable taste.

The soil, moreover, all round this fountain, is impregnated with saline substances. A considerable number of wild animals

74

SCORPIONS BARMEN.

congregate here nightly, in order to quench their thirst. Lions, also, are at times numerous, but, on this occasion, they did not molest us.

Having partaken of some supper, I was about to resign my weary limbs to repose, when suddenly there issued from a small hole, close to my head, a swarm of scorpions. Their appearance brought me to my feet in an instant; for, though not particularly a nervous man, I am free to confess to a great horror of all crawling things.

During the hot months, these animals lie dormant; but, on the approach of the rainy season, they come forth in great numbers. On removing stones, decayed pieces of wood, etc., it is necessary to be very cautious. The instant the scorpion feels. himself in contact with any part of the body of a man or beast, he lifts his tail, and, with his horny sting, inflicts a wound, which, though rarely fatal, is still of a very painful nature.1

Like the snake, the scorpion is fond of warmth; and it is not uncommon, on awakening in the morning, to find one or two of these horrid creatures snugly ensconced in the folds of the blanket, or under the pillow. On one occasion I killed a scorpion, measuring nearly seven and a half inches in length, that had thus unceremoniously introduced itself into my bed.

The following morning, our guide declared it to be only a few hours' further traveling to Barmen. We, therefore, did not hurry our departure, but took ample time to prepare, and to partake of, a substantial breakfast-consisting of some strong coffee, and steaks of zebra-flesh, simply prepared on the hot embers of our bivouac fire.

We arrived at Barmen just as the family were sitting down. to dinner, and Mr. Hahn kindly invited us to join in the ample repast. I was happy to find Mr. Galton in the enjoyment of health and excellent spirits; and he seemed delighted at our safe and speedy return.