CHAPTER VI.

RETURN TO SCHEPPMANSDORF TRAINING OXEN FOR THE YOKE SPORTTHE FLAMINGO — THE BUTCHER-BIRD : CURIOUS SUPERSTITION REGARDING IT PREPARING FOR JOURNEY SERVANTS DESCRIBED.

ING

MR. AND MRS. BAM, and their family, were, I was glad to find, in good health; and, as heretofore, they gave me not only a most kind reception, but placed at my disposal the best of everything which the house afforded.

It is wonderful what habit and association will effect. When I visited Scheppmansdorf in the first instance, I thought it the most dismal spot that human eye ever rested on. But, in the short space of a few weeks, it had almost become endeared to me. I found what Shakespeare calls the "soul of goodness in things evil." Dreariness was softened down into. peaceful seclusion; the savage country round about assumed the dignity of primeval nature, fresh from the hand of the Creator; and the solemn and stern night-silence only hushed me into sounder sleep. These feelings, and this trusting repose, mainly originated in the kind ministrations, and unaffected welcome, of sincere friends.

After a day or two's rest, we began the difficult and laborious task of breaking-in the oxen; but it proved a much more difficult one than I had anticipated. Whilst herded together, these animals looked tame and docile enough; but the instant they felt the lasso round their legs or horns, their character changed completely.

The spirit of Damara cattle is fiery and wild in the extreme, and I have known many an ox which ten strong men were unable to manage. The only remedy in such a case, is to

THE FISCAAL-PREPARING TO TRAVEL. 51

lasso the beast by his legs and horns, and, after having thrown him down, to affix to his neck a heavy iron chain, of sufficient length to trail along the ground. The effect on the animal of this encumbrance is in some instances very remarkable; for, instead of a wild, stubborn, and unbending brute, in a short time he is all docility. Indeed, it not unfrequently happens that he becomes too lazy to be of any use.

Whilst at Scheppmansdorf, and whenever I could snatch a a moment from my busy life, I never failed to shoulder my gun with a view of obtaining specimens of natural history, or a "reinforcement for the larder;" and an hour's walk not unfrequently procured me a tolerable share of both. Ducks and geese, though somewhat shy, were by no means uncommon. Quadrupeds, of every description, however, were scarce. Yet I managed, occasionally, to bag a steinbok or a hare.

Almost every morn we were visited by a splendid flock of pelicans, who kept soaring above the place for hours together; now in wide, graceful circles, the next instant in a compact body, sometimes rising into the sky, till they became nearly invisible; then suddenly sinking till they almost touched the earth; when abruptly, as if recollecting that the land was not their proper home, they would resume their airy station. They generally ended by settling near a large reedy fountain; but they were very difficult of approach.

The lanius subcoronatus, a species of shrike, first described by Dr. Andrew Smith, I found to be common at Scheppmansdorf; as also the butcher-bird, which, as known, always impales its prey on some thorn or sharp-pointed stick before devouring it. The Cape people call this bird the "fiscaal," or magistrate, in consequence of a superstitious belief that it represents among the smaller animals what the judge does amongst men. Many even go further, and say that the "fiscaal" only administers justice on a Friday; probably, from the Dutch court of justice being held, in former times, on that particular day.

Part of the oxen being at length pretty well trained to the yoke, we made preparations for our departure.

When we left the Cape, the belief was entertained that we should be able to carry thirty or forty hundred-weight on each wagon; but, on taking into account our young and wild cattle, and the sandy and heavy soil through which we should have to pass, we had ere this made up our minds to reduce the quantity to rather less than one third of this weight, or to about fifteen hundred pounds. Even this, as will shortly be seen, proved too great. Accordingly, every article was carefully weighed

with the steel-yard previously to being stowed away in the

wagons.

Before proceeding further in my narrative, it may be proper to introduce to the reader our traveling establishment, as the character of the several individuals composing it had, by this time, become pretty well developed. And though, amongst our retainers, we had more than one "black sheep," and others whom it was exceedingly difficult to keep in order, yet, taking them together, they were, probably, a fair average of the servants likely to be picked up by the African traveler. On an expedition, similar to the one in which we were engaged, I should remark, people cannot be too particular in the selection of their attendants; for, to say nothing of the success of the undertaking, one's personal comfort mainly depends on their good behavior.

First, in order, was a youth named Gabriel, a native of the Cape. He had been engaged by Galton chiefly for his smiling face and winning looks; but he proved himself to be the most troublesome of the whole lot. In our journey up the country, he had already exhibited a vindictive temper and quarrelsome disposition, which, at length, broke forth with increased violence. On two separate occasions, he attempted, if I was rightly informed, the lives of his fellow-servants. Upon this atrocity, I spoke to him with earnest reprobation, and trusted that I had produced some effect; when, to my astonishment, and mortification, the very next day he was guilty of the same outrage. After a dispute with one of his companions, he rushed upon him with a hatchet, and would, undoubtedly, have cleft his skull had it not been for a Hottentot, who warded off the blow. So little did the young villain think of the crime he had intended to perpetrate, that, upon receiving punishment, he had the impudence to remonstrate, and to ask why he was flogged.

Next, in order, came Abraham Wenzel (a native also, I believe, of Cape-Town), a wheelwright by trade, and by habit a thief. Even before leaving Scheppmansdorf, I received information that he had purloined divers articles from the stores, for which crime he received his due punishment.

Another of our servants was named John Waggoner. This man teased us continually by his sulkiness and reluctance to work, assigning as a reason, that he had been seized with homesickness, and that he wished to return immediately to the Cape. Some little time afterwards, he was gratified in his wish; and, as will subsequently he seen, he proved himself the worst scamp of the set. But John performed his fraudulent tricks with so

much cleverness, ingenuity, and self-confidence, that, out of mere admiration at his dexterity, I could not refrain from excusing him.

John St. Helena, a relative of the last-mentioned, was born. in the Cape-colony, and officiated as our head wagoner. This man exhibited the most extraordinary disposition; for, though sometimes he would be good-natured, willing, and hard-working, at others he was sulky, ill-tempered, and indolent. At first, I felt much annoyed at his irritable and changeable temper, but I soon found that, by interfering, I only made matters worse; and, as he was an "excellent whip," it was necessary to put up with, and overlook, a great deal, as we should have found it almost impossible to replace him in so wild and inhospitable a region. About three years afterwards I employed him again; and, strange to say, he was then the best of servants.

Another of the attendants, John Williams, also a colony man, was a short, stout, merry, mischievous-looking lad, who agreed to serve in any capacity to which he might be competent. He now cooked for the men, assisted in "inspanning" and leading the oxen, washed clothes-in short, made himself generally useful. Still he was careless, thoughtless, and dirty in his habits; and had not the least idea of husbanding the provisions. The result was, that before we had been many months in the country, our stock of vegetables, coffee, tea, and other necessaries was all but gone.

Our own cook, John Mortar, a native of Madeira, was the very reverse of this. He was careful, frugal, industrious, strictly honest, and deeply attached to his master's interest. His only fault was irritability; but this, in a cook, is always excusable. I had a great regard for poor John, and I believe the attachment was mutual.

Mortar had been cook to the club in Cape-Town, where he won golden opinions; but, though he had certainly attained some proficiency in the culinary art, he required a whole grocer's shop to prepare a dinner; and it was some time before he could reconcile himself to make a beef-steak à la façon sau

vage.

John had a famous way of telling stories; and, like his own dishes, they were very savory and well-spiced: a tale never degenerated in his hands; and when, in his happier moments, he condescended to open his mind, he never failed to keep his audience in a roar of laughter. He had, moreover, great ambition, and could never bear that any one should interfere with his cooking establishment. The arrival of a batch of natives at his

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fire was the signal for a general burst of eloquent abuse; and, if this did not suffice, he had a provoking way of scattering the hot coals and ashes over the naked legs of the poor unsuspecting savages, which, of course, never failed to have the desired effect. I often trembled for John; for his mind was clearly too republican to make any difference between chief and subject; and I was surprised that he never got into a scrape. I suppose, however, the comical manner in which his dangerous experiments were always carried on, served rather to amuse than irritate or provoke.

John lived to return to the Cape, where he became another Gulliver, embellishing his adventures among the savages with marvels which would have done honor to the invention even of Dean Swift.

I now come to the last, but certainly not the least interesting, of the servants. This man's name was Timbo; he was a native of Mazapa, a country far in the interior, lying to the west of the Portuguese settlements, on the east coast of Africa. When yet a child, Timbo's country was invaded by a ferocious and powerful tribe of Caffres, who carried off the cattle, and slew many of the inhabitants. Amongst the latter, were his parents; he, himself escaped to a neighboring tribe. As this, however, soon after shared a similar fate to his own, he was, for a long time, a "stranger on the face of the earth." At last, he was sold as a slave to the Portuguese; but, after a while effected his escape. His liberty, however, was of short duration, for he was soon recaptured, and put on board a slaver. Fortunately, the vessel fell into the hands of an English cruiser, and Timbo, together with a great number of slaves, was brought to the Cape, and liberated.

Though of a shining, dark complexion, Timbo was a remarkably fine-looking man, and well formed. He bore the reputation of being a complete lady-killer, not only with those of his own color, but also amongst the European "fair sex. He had, therefore, no great difficulty in securing a partner. His choice, however, seems to have been unfortunate; for, on his return, after eighteen months' absence, he found that his faithless spouse had not only deserted him for another, but had also carried off with her nearly the whole of his hard-earned wages. On asking him, one day, whether he had any intention of again marrying, he replied, in his strange patois:-"No, maser, me no more marry; women too great rascals in the Kaap!"

But it was not only of a handsome face and good figure that