CAPE TOWN AND ITS

INHABITANTS.

5

proposed to proceed by land northwards, taking the course of the Trans-Vaal river. It will presently be seen, however, that our desires in this respect were entirely frustrated.

To give to an English reader a full description of Cape-Town, would, indeed, be a superfluous task. I fear, also, that, in some respects, I should be found to differ from other travelers.

Cape-Town is generally described as a clean and neat place. With all due deference, I must dissent widely from this opinion. All the streets, for instance, are unpaved, and are, moreover, half-filled with rubbish, swept from the shops and warehouses, until some friendly shower carries it away. Undoubtedly, the town is regularly built, with broad streets, laid out at right angles to each other; but, as almost every person of property resides in the country, few handsome dwelling-houses are to be met with-and by far the greater number are in the Dutch style. Here, however, as everywhere else where the English have obtained firm footing, improvements are very apparent; and, doubtless, now that the colony has obtained its own Legislature, such improvements will become still more visible.

66

No one can be at Cape-Town for a single day, without being struck by the infinite variety of the human race encountered in the streets-Indians, Chinese, Malays, Caffres, Bechuanas, Hottentots, Creoles, " Afrikanders," half-casts of many kinds, negroes of every variety from the east and west coasts of Africa, and Europeans of all countries, form the motley population of the place.

Of all these, with the exception of the Europeans, the Malays are far the most conspicuous and important. They comprise, indeed, no inconsiderable portion of the inhabitants, and are, moreover, distinguished for their industry and sobriety. Many of them are exceedingly well off, and, not unfrequently, keep their carriages and horses. They profess the Mahometan religion, and have their own clergy and places of worship. Two-thirds of the week they work hard, and devote the remainder to pleasure, spending much of their time and money on their dress-more especially the women.

MALAY.

These latter seldom have any covering for the head; but the men tie round it a red handkerchief, over which they wear an

6

TABLE MOUNTAIN.

enormous umbrella-shaped straw hat, admirably adapted to ward off the sun's rays, but useless and inconvenient in windy weather.

The Malays are, usually, very honest; but, strange to relate, on a certain day of the year, they exert their ingenuity in purloining their neighbors' poultry, and, Spartan-like, do not conside this dishonorable, provided they are not detected in the fact:

"To be taken, to be seen,

These have crimes accounted been."

To be at Cape-Town, without ascending the far-famed Table Mountain, was, of course, not to be thought of. The undertaking, however, is not altogether without danger. On the side of the town, access to the summit is only practicable on foot, and that by a narrow and slippery path; but, on the opposite side, the Table may be gained on horseback, though with some difficulty. The whole mountain side, moreover, is intersected by deep and numerous ravines, which are rendered more dangerous by the dense fogs that, at certain seasons of the year, arise suddenly from the sea.

One fine afternoon, I had unconsciously approached the foot of the mountain, and the top looked so near and inviting, that, though the sun was fast sinking, I determined to make the ascent. At the very outset, I lost the road; but, having been all my life a mountain-climber, I pushed boldly forward. The task, however, proved more difficult than I expected, and the sun's broad disc had already touched the horizon when I reached the summit. Nevertheless, the magnificent panorama that now lay spread before me, amply rewarded me for my trouble. It was, however, only for a very short time that I could enjoy the beautiful scene; darkness was rapidly encroaching over the valley below; and, as in these regions there is but one step from light to darkness, I was compelled to commence the descent, without a moment's delay. I confess that this was not done without some apprehension; for, what with the quickcoming night, and the terrible ravines that lay yawning beneath my feet, the task was anything but agreeable. I found it necessary, for safety, to take off my boots, which I fastened to my waist; and, at length, after much exertion, with hands torn, and trowsers almost in rags, I arrived late in the evening at our hotel, where they had begun to entertain some doubt of my safety. As a proof that my fears were not altogether groundless, a short time before this, a young man, who was

CURIOUS

LEGEND.

7

wandering about the mountain in broad daylight, missed his footing, was precipitated down its sides, and brought in the next day, a mutilated corpse.

When Europeans first arrived in the Cape Colony, it would appear that almost all the larger quadrupeds indigenous to Southern Africa existed in the neighborhood of Table Mountain. A curious anecdote is preserved in the archives of Cape-Town, relating to the death of a rhinoceros, which, for its quaintness and originality, is, perhaps, worthy of record.

Once upon a time-so runs the legend-some laborers, employed in a field, discovered a huge rhinoceros, immovably fixed in the quick-sands of the salt river, which is within a mile of the town. The alarm being given, a number of country people, armed with such weapons as were at hand, rushed to the spot with an intention of dispatching the monster. Its appearance, however, was so formidable, that they deemed it advisable to open their battery at a most respectful distance. But, seeing that all the animal's efforts to extricate itself were fruitless, the men gradually grew more courageous; and approached much nearer. Still, whether from the inefficiency of their weapons, or want of skill, they were unable to make any impression on the tough, and almost impenetrable hide of the beast. At length, they began to despair, and it was a question if they should not beat a retreat; when an individual, more sagacious than the rest, stepped forward, and suggested that a hole should be cut in the animal's hide, by which means easy access might be had to its vitals; and they could then destroy it at their leisure! The happy device was loudly applauded; and though, I believe, the tale ends here, it may be fairly concluded that, after such an excellent recommendation, success could not but crown their endeavors.

We had now been at Cape-Town somewhat less than a week, and had already added considerably to the stock of articles of exchange, provisions, and other necessaries for our journey. To convey this immense quantity of luggage, we provided ourselves with two gigantic wagons, each represented to hold three or four thousand pounds weight, together with a sort of cart' for ourselves.

Mr. Galton bought, also, nine excellent mules, which could be used either for draught or packing; two riding horses; and,

The term "cart" in this sense, implies a large, roomy, and covered vehicle, capable of holding four or six individuals, and from five hundred to one thousand pounds of baggage. It is usually drawn by six or eight mules or horses.

8

JOURNEY DEFERRED.

in addition to these, he secured about half a dozen dogs, which, if the truth be told, were of a somewhat mongrel description.

Mr. Galton also engaged the needful people to accompany us on our travels, such as wagon-drivers, herdsmen, cooks, etc., in all amounting to seven individuals.

Our preparations being now complete, we were about to set out on our journey, when, to our dismay, we received information which entirely overthrew our plans. It was reported to us that the Boers on the Trans-Vaal river (the very line of country we purposed taking) had lately turned back several traders and travelers, who were on their way northwards, and had, moreover, threatened to kill any person who should attempt to pass through their territories with the intention of penetrating to Lake Ngami. This intelligence, being equally unexpected and unwelcome, we were at a loss on what to decide. On asking the opinion of the Governor of the Cape, Sir Harry Smith, to whose kindness and hospitality we were, on several occasions, indebted, he strongly dissuaded us from attempting the route in question. "The Boers," he said, "are determined men; and, although I have no fear for the safety of your lives, they will assuredly rob you of all your goods and cattle, and thus prevent your proceeding further." The counsel given us by his Excellency settled the point. We were, however, determined not to be idle; but it was by no means easy to decide on what course to pursue. As the whole of the interior, by which a passage could be obtained to the Lake, was either occupied by the Boers, or served as their hunting-ground, we were compelled to choose between the eastern and western coasts. The former of these, however, was well known to be infected by fevers fatal to Europeans; while the latter presented, for a considerable distance northwards, nothing but a sandy shore, destitute of fresh water and vegetation. The country intervening between the western coast and the Lake, moreover, was represented as very unhealthy.

M

Whilst in this state of uncertainty, we made the acquaintance of a Mr. M—————, who lately had an establishment at Walfisch Bay, on the west coast of Africa, about seven hundred geographical miles north of the Cape. He strongly recommended us to select this place as the starting point for our journey into the interior, which opinion was confirmed by some missionaries whom we met in Cape-Town, and who had a settlement in the neighborhood of the bay in question.

This route was ultimately adopted by us; but, as vessels only frequented Walfisch Bay once or twice in the course of every

SAIL FOR WALFISCH

BAY.

9

two years, Mr. Galton at once chartered a small schooner, named the Foam, the sixth part of the expense of which was defrayed by the missionaries referred to, who were anxious, not only to forward some supplies, but to obtain a passage for a young member of their society, the Rev. Mr. Schöneberg, who was about proceeding on a mission of peace and good-will into Damara-land.

As our plans were now so entirely changed, and as we were about to travel through an almost unknown region, we thought it expedient to disencumber ourselves of whatever could, in any way, be spared. We left, accordingly, at the Cape, amongst other things, two of our boats; taking with us, however, the other, a mackintosh punt, as being light and portable, hoping, some day or other, to see her floating on the waters of the Ngami.

Our arrangements being finished, and the goods, etc., shipped, we unfurled our sails on the 7th of August, and bade farewell to Cape-Town, where, during our short stay, we had experienced much kindness and hospitality.