GARDENING AND AGRICULTURE-COMMERCE.

375

would be preferable to that of being the drudge of a haughty

and indolent husband.

"While standing near the wife of one of the grandees," writes Mr. Moffat, "who, with some female companions, was building a house, and making preparations to scramble, by means of a branch, on to the roof, I remarked that they ought to get their husbands to do that part of the work. This set them all into a roar of laughter. Mahuto, the queen, and several of the men drawing near, to ascertain the cause of the merriment, the wives repeated my-to them-strange and ludicrous proposal, when another peal of mirth ensued. Mahuto, who was a sensible and shrewd woman, stated that the plan, though hopeless, was a good one, as she often thought our custom was much better than theirs. It was reasonable that woman should attend to household affairs, and the lighter parts of labor; while man, wont to boast of his superior strength, should employ his energy in more laborious occupations; adding, she wished I would give their husbands medicine to make them do the work."

The Bechuanas, who inhabit the shores of the Ngami, are rich in sheep and goats, but possess comparatively few horned cattle. Like other tribes of that nation, they are excessively fond of their oxen, but more particularly prize their cows, which scarcely anything can induce them to part with. Indeed, they will readily give ivory, when plentiful, in exchange for cows.

Gardening and agriculture are much practiced by the Bechuanas. These occupations are conducted in nearly a similar manner as that described amongst the Ovambo. The vegetables and the grain are also very much the same.

The only marketable articles, as yet ascertained at the Lake, are ostrich feathers, furs, and skins of various sorts, rhinoceroshorns, and ivory (elephant and hippopotamus). The staple articles of exchange are beads, and more especially ammunition. Clothing is as yet but very little in demand, the people not being sufficiently advanced in civilization to care for such a luxury. Even beads are not sought after with the avidity they used to be, such quantities having of late been exported to the Lake country, that (to use a vulgar, but very emphatic expression of Lecholètébe)" the women," who chiefly wear beads, "grunt under their burdens like pigs." No visitor, however, should be entirely without them. All large beads are useless. Small beads of the following colors, pink, dull-white, light-green, brick-colored, light-blue, dark-blue, and yellow, are chiefly in demand.

The Bechuanas of the Lake are fond of the chase, and almost

376

HUNTING AND

FISHING.

daily parties are sent out to provide for the chief's table. But, though possessed of a great number of fire-arms, few of the men have as yet attained any proficiency in their use. By far the greater portion of animals slain are obtained by means of pitfalls dug by the bushmen and the Bayeye along the banks of the rivers. As many as thirty to forty pit-falls may be seen extending in one continuous line.

Though the finny tribe is pretty numerous in the Lake and its rivers, none of the Bechuanas take the trouble to catch them. The conquered race, the Bayeye, however, are very expert and industrious fishermen.

CHAPTER XXXVI.

DEPARTURE FOR LIBÉBÉ THE CANOE THE LAKE-REACH THE TEOGE ADVENTURE WITH A LECHE-LUXURIOUS VEGETATION-EXUBERANCE OF ANIMAL LIFE-BUFFALOES-THE KOODOO-HIS HAUNTS-PACE-FOODFLESH-HIDE-DISPOSITION-GREGARIOUS HABITS-THE CHASE.

As Lecholétébè proved true to his word, with regard to providing me with men and boats, I was able, after only a few days' stay at the Lake, to proceed on my exploring tour to the north. To the last moment, however, the chief and his people endeavored to dissuade me from the attempt, urging, amongst other reasons, the enormous windings of the Teoge, which would prevent me from reaching my destination for many months; as, also, the great number of hippopotami, which they represented as the most savage and voracious of beasts.

I did not give much credit to the story of these men, not having the least faith in their word. I told them that, with regard to the sinuosities of the stream, I hoped to overcome that difficulty by patience; and, as to the sea-cows, if they really were such monsters as described, I assured them I was quite confident that my black followers (pointing to the boatmen), to whom they were accustomed, would be first swallowed, which would give me time to escape. With this rude joke, which highly pleased my uututored audience, I stepped into the canoe, and, waving my hand in token of leave to my men and the chief, I launched forth on the Zouga.

The canoe in which I embarked (and they are all somewhat similarly constructed) was but a miserable craft. It consisted of the trunk of a tree, about twenty feet long, pointed at both ends, and hollowed out by means of fire and a small hatchet.

378

THE

CANOE-REACH

THE TEOGE.

The natives are not at all particular as to the shape of the canoe. The after-part of some, that have come under my notice, would form an angle of near forty-five degrees with the stem! Nevertheless, they were propelled through the water by the Bayeye (my boatmen were of that nation) with considerable speed and skill.

The "appointments" of the canoe consist of a paddle and a pole, ten or twelve feet in length. The paddle-man sits well in the stern, and attends mostly to the steering; whilst his comrade, posted at the head of the canoe, sends her along, by means of the pole, with great force and skill.

The natives, however, rarely venture any distance from the shore in their frail skiffs. It was said that they had made several attempts to cross the widest part of the Lake, but had never succeeded. A party, consisting of ten or twelve canoes, hazarded the experiment a few years previous to its discovery by Europeans, but were not again heard of, from which it was concluded that they had been overtaken by a storm, and perished. After about an hour's paddling, the broad expanse of the Lake lay before me, glittering in all the beauty and softness produced by reflection of the warm rays of a tropical sun. It was, indeed, a luxury, after so much traveling in the burning desert, to be able, at last, to float upon

“The glassy, cool, translucent wave;"

and the pleasure was increased by my partiality to water-an element with which I had become familiar in the early stages of boyhood, and on which I have spent some of my happiest days.

As I felt the cool breeze fanning my cheeks, new life seemed to stir within me, and my heart beat high with joyous excite

ment.

Our party, at starting, consisted of only three or four canoes; but, as we proceeded on the voyage, the number increased, and ultimately amounted to about a dozen.

In consequence of the frail structure of our craft, and the boatmen's tenacity in keeping near the shore, we were two days in getting from the Zouga to the western extremity of the Lake, although, in reality, it is only one good day's voyage. It was not, therefere, until the third day that we reached the chief entrance of the mouth of the Teoge (for here the river spreads out into several branches), where there is a bar. The water was so low on it that, although the stream was fast rising at the time

ADVENTURE

WITH A LECHE.

379

(August), we were forced to draw the canoes across it by main force. It is true, we might have avoided the inconvenience by proceeding a mile or two to the westward, where a channel exists that is said to be navigable at all seasons.

Our voyage across the Lake was attended with no incident worth recording; but, on reaching the point just mentioned, I had a little adventure with a leché, hundreds of which might be seen grazing and sporting amongst the shallows and the numerous little islets of the Teoge.

I had gone in advance of my party in the hope of obtaining a shot; but, though I met with vast numbers of animals, the openness of the ground prevented me from getting within range. Being quite tired by my severe, but fruitless exertions, I was resting on the rifle, contemplating the novel and striking scene, -the Lake with its broad blue waters, its finely wooded shores, the varied and vast herds of animals; the Teoge with its numerous little channels and sedgy shores-when I saw, a little a-head of me, two magnificent stag lechés approaching each other, evidently with no friendly intentions. I was right in my conjecture; for, in a few seconds afterwards, they were engaged in combat. Taking advantage of this lucky incident, I approached, unperceived, within a dozen paces, when I quickly dropped on one knee and took a deliberate aim at the shoulder of the nearest; but, just as I pulled the trigger, he received a violent thrust from his antagonist which made him swerve to one side, and the consequence was, that the ball, instead of piercing his heart, merely smashed one of his hind legs. The animals, nevertheless, were so intently engaged, that, notwithstanding the report of the gun, and the wounded state of one of them (he probably attributed this to his adversary), they did not observe me. Throwing aside the rifle, I drew my hunting knife, and, thus armed, rushed upon the combatants. Just, however, as I was about to bury the fatal weapon in the flank of one of the animals, they both suddenly became aware of me, and fled precipitately. The wounded beast at once made for the river, which was hard by, and, though it was running very swiftly at this point-perhaps not less than four or five miles an hour-he plunged into the water.

Not being then aware of the aquatic habits of this species of antelope, I was very much astonished, and, for a while, thought the beast would surely be carried away by the violence of the current and drowned. But I was soon undeceived; for he struck bravely out for the opposite shore, his course being marked with streaks of crimson. On gaining the bank, he gave