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280

ARRIVAL AT

REHOBOTH.

The party, which consisted of no less than forty-seven wagons, had penetrated to within a few days of the Lake Ngami; but, not finding elephants, they retraced their steps. A certain portion of the country they had visited was infested by the tsetse," by whose poisonous bites they had lost some of the cattle and horses. The "horse-sickness" also prevailed.

I engaged, as Bechuana interpreter, one of the Griquas, who had visited the lake by the ordinary route (via Kuruman). He spoke of the inhabitants as civil and hospitable, but warned me against the Dutch farmers, should I fall in with any. I was well aware of their troublesome disposition; but, of course, made due allowance for the exaggerations of an individual belonging to a nation who are sworn enemies to the boers. The Griquas supposed that Ngami might be reached in nine days from Tunobis (the furthest point to the eastward reached by Mr. Galton about a year and a half ago), and said that two or three fountains existed on the road.

On the 17th of March I found myself at Rehoboth, having in little more than a month, with borrowed oxen, passed over several hundred miles of country, and obtained by barter about three hundred head of cattle. I felt rather proud of the performance. My other wagons, which I had ordered to take the Kuisip route, had not yet arrived. I felt disappointed, and was unable to account for the delay, since want of oxen could not have been the cause, the missionaries having kindly and promptly sent me more than one team. Indeed, Onesimus had started, with upwards of forty well-trained beasts, several weeks previously to my reaching the station, and I began to fear that some evil had befallen them.

Whilst abiding their forthcoming, I busied myself in mapping the country, and exploring the neighborhood. Close to the station rose some conspicuous masses of granite (on Mr. Galton's map erroneously termed limestone), interspersed with large quantities of glittering quartz. From the highest peak I obtained a fine and extensive view of the surrounding country. The beautiful table-mountain of Tans, visible from many points, stood out in bold relief against the western horizon. In a clear atmosphere it may be distinguished at an immense distance. Thus, it can be discerned at Onanis, from the top of "Witwater" range, at Rehoboth, and even considerably to the south on the Fish river.

Sir James 'Alexander, in his journey to Walfisch Bay from the Orange river, climbed Tans mountain, and considered its elevation to be about 4,000 feet; but he does not say whether

COPPER

ORE-JONATHAN

AFRIKA.

281

Be that as it may,

above the plain or the level of the sea. however, I do not think either estimation correct. Mr. Vollmer, who once, with great labor, crossed the table of Tans in his own wagon, informed me that its western aspect, or side facing the Kuisip, is very steep and high, but the eastern slope is gradual, and not a great deal elevated above the plain.

The rocks all about Rehoboth are strongly impregnated with copper, and specimens of the ore, of a very productive quality (forty to ninety per cent.), are occasionally found. I presented Mr. Reid with several pieces, giving him permission to use them as he thought fit. I advised him, however, to get them analyzed by Mr. Schmieterleuv, whom I knew to be a straightforward man, but he preferred to subject them to his own friend, Dr. G. After about a year's absence, I met Mr. Reid again, and, on asking him what advantage he had derived from the copper I gave to him, he replied, "None whatever. Dr. G-declared the specimens were worthless. Yet, not long afterwards, he went into partnership with a certain merchant on the strength of these identical specimens." So much for friendship!

Captain Zwartbooi's people had started off to Damara-land under pretext of looking out for fountains, but the sequel proved it was solely with a view of stealing cattle. The example set them by Jonker, Cornelius, and others, was too strong to be longer withstood.

One evening, Jonathan Afrika presented himself at the station. I had already, at Barmen, seen this man, who was of Bechuana extraction, but had been brought up amongst civilized people. A shrewder fellow I never came across. He bore an excellent character throughout the country. When he first arrived, he accompanied Mr. M-, the trader, in whose service he suffered much privation.

Jonathan, who soon afterwards entered into my service, was a man of great courage, and an excellent marksman. He had shared many a hunting exploit with his friend Hans, and had made numerous lions bite the dust.

On one occasion, Jonathan was riding leisurely along, when suddenly, a short distance in advance of him, a fine lion rushed out of the bushes. Throwing himself quickly off the ox, he gave chase to the beast, calling out loudly: "Nay, stop a little. To-day we must, indeed, talk with each other." Whether the lion thought he could not escape, or that he considered his dignity concerned, I shall not presume to say, but, at all events, he stopped to look at his pursuer. No sooner, however, had he

282

A LION SUPS ΟΝ A GOAT.

turned his head, than a well-directed ball entered one of his eyes and laid him low in an instant.

After waiting at Rehoboth for about a week, I had the satisfaction to see my men and wagon arrive in safety. The cause of the delay had been the nature of the road, the greater part of which consisted of a succession of sand ridges, as bad as those at Scheppmansdorf. The oxen were good, and more than sufficient to do the work, but from want of yokes, they could only make use of twelve at a time.

The men had also been much plagued by lions. One fine moonlight night, just as they had unyoked at the base of a small sandhill, one of these animals appeared immediately above. After having eyed them for a moment, he dashed in amongst the goats, and before the men could get their guns in order, he was out of harm's way with one of the quadrupeds.

At another time, a lion made a rush at the cattle when at pasture, who fled pecipitately into a defile, where, not finding an outlet, they faced about and confronted their fierce antagonist. The beast evidently dreaded the forest of bristling horns, for, after having paced to and fro at the entrance of the pass the best part of the night, keeping cattle and men in great tribulation by his savage growls, he slunk off towards morning.

CHAPTER XXIX.

DISPATCH CATTLE TO THE CAPE-TERRIBLE THUNDER-STORM-TREES STRUCK BY LIGHTNING-THE NOSOP RIVER-A COMET-THE AUTHOR NEARLY POISONED SOME OF THE MEN ABSCOND; THEY RETURN TO THEIR DUTY— BABEL-LIKE CONFUSION OF TONGUES-GAME ABUNDANT-AUTHOR SHOOTS A GIRAFFE-MEET BUSHMEN UNSUCCESSFUL ELEPHANT HUNT-SUFFERINGS FROM HUNGER-TUNOBIS-GAME SCARCE-AUTHOR AND STEED ENTRAPPED PIT-FALLS-THE MEN TURN SULKY PREPARATIONS FOR DEPARTURE FROM TUNOBIS-VICIOUS PACK-OXEN CONSEQUENCES OF EXCESSIVE FATIGUE-THE JACKAL'S HANDY-WORK-TRACKS OF ELEPHANTS -MORE PIT-FALLS-LOSS OF THE ANGLO-SAXON LION AND THE SWEDISH CROSS-REACH GHANZE.

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ON the 1st of April I dispatched my cattle (three hundred and sixty in number) to the Cape in charge of old Piet, Thomas Gibbons, William, and two or three Damaras. The first-mentioned was well accustomed to a large drove of oxen, and was the only one of the party in whom I had any confidence. Under such circumstances, it was, perhaps, natural that I should feel some misgivings about their safe arrival. But I placed my trust in that same Providence who had hitherto watched over the lonely stranger, firm in the conviction that, whatever befell me or my property (both of which I was about to risk in the cause. of humanity and civilization), would be for the best.

Fearing, from experience, that wagons would be only an incumbrance, and impede the dispatch, if not defeat the success, of my expedition to the Ngami, I parted with them. As I knew, however, that the road as far as Tunobis was practical for wheelcarriages, I borrowed an old battered vehicle for the occasion, intending to send it back with Eyebrecht. Thence I purposed pursuing the journey with pack-and-ride oxen. This, though

284

TERRIBLE

THUNDER-STORM.

the most eligible plan, subjects the traveler to much hardship and inconvenience, from exposure to the inclemency of the weather, and the very small stock of provisions, etc., that can be conveyed.

Up to this period the men had worked well and willingly; but the day on which I bade farewell to the hospitable missionary roof (5th of April), Timbo became sulky and expressed a wish to return to the Cape, from which I had some difficulty in persuading him. It was the first time I had real cause for being dissatisfied with the man, but not the last.

Four days after this little difficulty was got over, it came on to rain so tremendously, that it seemed as if we were going to have another deluge. For three days and as many nights, it continued to pour down with scarcely any intermission. The scriptural expression, "The windows of heaven were opened," might indeed have been here realized. During the last twelve hours the thunder and lightning were truly appalling, and perfectly stunned and blinded us. Peal after peal, flash after flash, followed in rapid succession-re-echoed and reflected from a hundred peaks. Trees were broken short off or torn up by the roots by the violence of the wind.

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From many a horrid rift, abortive pour'd
Fierce rain with lightning mix'd, water with fire
In ruin reconciled; nor slept the winds
Within their stony caves, but rush'd abroad
From the four hinges of the world, and fell
On the vexed wilderness, whose tallest pines,
(Though rooted deep as high), and sturdiest oaks,
Bow'd their stiff necks, loaden with stormy blast
Or torn up sheer."

The men's tent, which was secured with numerous strong straps to the side of the wagon, was carried bodily away, and men and quadrupeds were literally swimming in the torrent, which, rushing down with irresistible fury from the slopes of the hills, swept over our camping ground. The poor dogs howled from fear and suffering. Every moment I expected to see the wagon capsized by the blast, or, what was worse, struck by lightning, as we had somewhat incautiously encamped under a kameel-doorn boom, which is one of the most certain of conductors. Indeed, nearly two-thirds of the full-grown trees of this kind are found splintered by the electric fluid.

So completely did this deluge saturate and swamp the locality, that for two days after the rains had ceased we were unable to

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