at this place, but thirsty nature is relieved by heavy dews. Fresh water and fuel, however, two of the great necessaries of life, are found in abundance.

Sandy and barren as the soil appears to the eye, portions of it, nevertheless, are capable of great fertility. From time to time, Mr. Bam has cultivated small spots of garden ground in the bed of the river; but although many things thrive exceedingly well, the trouble, risk, and labor were too great to make it worth his while to persevere. A sudden and unexpected flood, the effect of heavy rains in the interior, often lays waste in a few minutes what has taken months to raise.

The principal trees thereabouts are the ana and the giraffethorn (acacia giraffe); and the chief herbage, a species of sandreed, which is much relished by the cattle when once accustomed to it, but more especially by horses, mules, and donkeys, which thrive and fatten wonderfully on this diet.

During our stay at Scheppmansdorf, we were the constant guests of Mr. and Mrs. Bam, but we felt almost sorry to trespass on a hospitality that we knew they could ill afford; for it was only once in every two years that they received their supplies from the Cape, and then only in sufficient quantities for their own families. The genuine sincerity, however, with which it was offered, overruled all scruples.

Mr. Bam had long been a dweller in various parts of Great Namaqua-land. His present residence, however, in this its western portion, was of comparatively recent date. Although he had used every effort to civilize and christianize his small community, all his endeavors had hitherto proved nearly abortive; but as we become acquainted with the character of the Namaquas, who are partially-civilized Hottentots, the wonder ceases; and we discover that they possess every vice of savages, and none of their noble qualities. So long as they are fed and clothed, they are willing enough to congregate round the missionary, and to listen to his exhortation. The moment, however, the food and clothing are discontinued, their feigned attachment to his person and to his doctrines is at an end, and they do not scruple to treat their benefactor with ingratitude, and load him

with abuse.

The missionary is more or less dependent on his own resources. Such assistance as he obtains from the natives is so trivial, and

The southern limit of Great Namaqua-land is, at the present moment, the Orange river. To the north it is bounded by Damara-land, or by about the twenty-second degree of south latitude.

MISSIONARY LIFE.

21

procured with so much trouble, that it is often gladly dispensed with. The good man is his own architect, smith, wheel-wright, tinker, gardener, etc., whilst his faithful spouse officiates as nurse, cook, washerwoman, and so forth. Occasionally, to get the drudgery off their hands, they adopt some poor boy and girl, who, after they have been taught with infinite labor to make themselves useful, and have experienced nothing but kindness, will often leave their protectors abruptly, or, what is nearly as bad, become lazy and indolent.

A Namaqua, it would appear, is not able to appreciate kindness, and no word in his language, as far as I can remember, is expressive of gratitude! The same is the case, as I shall hereafter have occasion to mention, with their northern neighbors, the Damaras, and though a sad, it is, nevertheless, a true picture.

When wagons were first introduced into Great Namaqualand, they caused many conjectures, and much astonishment among the natives, who conceived them to be some gigantic animal possessed of vitality. A conveyance of this kind, belonging to the Rev. Mr. Schmelen, once broke down, and was left sticking in the sand. One day a Bushman came to the owner, and said that he had seen his "pack-ox" standing in the desert for a long time, with a broken leg; and, as he did not observe it had any grass, he was afraid that it would soon die of hunger unless taken away!

CHAPTER III.

PREPARATIONS FOR JOURNEY-BREAKING IN OXEN-DEPARTURE FROM SCHEPPMANSDORF-AN INFURIATED OX-THE NAARIP PLAIN-THE SCARLET FLOWER THE USAB GORGE-THE SWAKOP PIVER-TRACKS OF RHINOCEROS SEEN ANECDOTE OF THAT ANIMALA SUNRISE IN THE TROPICS-SUFFERINGS FROM HEAT AND THIRST-ARRIVAL AT DAVIEP-GREAT RESORT OF LIONS-A HORSE AND MULE KILLED BY THIEM-THE AUTHOR GOES IN PURSUIT-A TROOP OF LIONS-UNSUCCESSFUL CHASE-MULE'S FLESH PALATABLE.

MR. GALTON had now so far altered his plans, that instead of proceeding up the country, with only one-half of his party, for the purchase of cattle, it was arranged that we should make the journey together. The wagons, and the bulk of our effects, were to be left at Scheppmansdorf, and we were only to take with us some few articles of exchange, a small quantity of provisions, and a moderate supply of ammunition.

Finding, however, that the cart could not conveniently hold all our baggage, though now reduced to the smallest quantity possible, it was resolved to pack a portion on oxen. These animals, on account of their great hardihood, are invaluable in South Africa; the more so, as they can be equally well used for draught, the "pack," or the "saddle." But as we had no cattle trained for either of these purposes, and only one or two were procurable at the missionary station, we were necessitated, prior to our departure thence, to break in a few. No easy matter, by-the-by; for oxen are of a wild and stubborn disposition, and it requires months to make them tractable. We were, however, totally at a loss how to set to work.

But, fortunately, at this time, Mr. Galton had engaged a Mr.

BREAKING-IN

OXEN.

23

Stewardson-tailor by profession, but now "jack of all trades"to accompany us up the country in the capacity of cicerone, etc.; and as this man, from long residence amongst the Hottentots, was thorougly conversant with the mysteries of oxbreaking, to him, therefore, we deputed the difficult task.

on.

At the end of a "riem," or long leather thong, a pretty large noose is made, which is loosely attached to, or rather suspended from, the end of a slight stick some five or six feet in length. With this stick in his hand, a man, under shelter of the herd, stealthily approaches the ox selected to be operated When sufficiently near, he places the noose (though at some little distance from the ground) just in advance of the hind feet of the animal; and, when the latter steps into it, he draws it tight. The instant the ox finds himself in the toils, he makes a tremendous rush forward; but as several people hold the outer end of the "riem," he-in sailor language-is quickly" brought up." The force of the check is, indeed, such as often to capsize one or more of the men. He now renews his efforts; he kicks, foams, bellows; and his companions, at first startled, return and join in chorus; the men shout, the dogs bark furiously, and the affair becomes at once dangerous and highly exciting. The captured animal not unfrequently grows frantic with rage and fear, and turns upon his assailant, when the only chance of escape is to let go the hold of the "riem." Usually he soon exhausts himself by his own exertions, when one or two men instantly seize him by the tail-another thong having also been passed round his horns; and, by bringing the two to bear in exactly opposite directions, or, in other words, by using the two as levers at a right-angle with his body, he is easily brought to the ground. This being once effected, the tail is passed between his legs and held forcibly down over his ribs, and the head is twisted on one side, with the horns fixed in the ground. A short, strong stick, of peculiar shape, is then forced through the cartilage of the nose; and to either end of this stick is attached (in bridle fashion) a thin, tough, leathern thong. From the extreme tenderness of the nose, he is now more easily managed; but, if he is still found very vicious, he is either packed in his prostrate position, or fastened with his head to a tree, whilst two or three persons keep the "riem" tight about his legs, so as to prevent him from turning round, or injuring any person with his feet. For the "packing," however, a more common and convenient plan is, to secure him between two tame oxen, with a person placed outside each of these animals.

24

DEPARTURE FROM

SCHEPPMANSDORF.

For the first day or two, only a single skin, or empty bag, is put on his back, which is firmly secured with a thong, eighty to ninety feet in length (those employed by the Namaquas, for the same purpose, are about twice as long); but bulk, as well as weight, is daily added; and though he kicks and plunges violently-and sometimes with such effect as to throw off his pack-the ox soon becomes more tractable. Strange enough, those who show the most spirit in the beginning, are often the first subdued. But an ox that lies down, when in the act of "packing" him, generally proves the most troublesome. Indeed, not one in ten that does so is fit for anything.

I have seen oxen that no punishment, however severe, would induce to rise; not even the application of fire. This would seem a cruel expedient; but when it is remembered that his thus remaining immovable is entirely attributable to obstinacy, and that a person's life may depend on getting forward, the application of this torture admits of some excuse.

But even when, at last, he has been trained to carry the pack or the saddle, there is another difficulty, scarcely less formidable, to overcome. From the gregarious habits of the ox, he is unwilling either to proceed in advance of the rest, or to remain at any distance behind his comrades; and, if there is no one to lead, the whole troop will instantly come to a stand-still. Only a few can be trained as leaders. Such animals are always selected as have a quick step, and, of themselves, are in the habit of keeping ahead, and apart from the rest of the herd. Oxen of this description, at all times, hold the first rank in a traveling caravan.

At length, after great exertions, and endless delays, we were able to fix upon the day for our departure. Our arrangements were as follows:-On the cart, which was drawn by eight mules, we placed about one thousand pounds, consisting chiefly of guns, presents for chieftains and others, articles for barter, implements of natural history, bedding, etc. Six hundred weight (ammunition and provisions) were besides distributed amongst four "pack"-oxen and one mule.

The object of the expedition being entirely for the purpose of obtaining cattle for draught and slaughter, we were given to understand that, after about eight to ten days' journey, we should arrive at some native villages, where we might procure any number of beasts required. Our course, as far as we could understand, was to the northeast, and through an exceedingly wild and sterile part of the country.