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TRAVERSING PRIMEVAL FORESTS.

As we journeyed on a course somewhat parallel with Omuvereoom, we fell in with a sort of vley river-if river it could be called, since it consisted alternately of dry, open spaces and deep gullies. Both banks of this peculiar water-course were hemmed in by one vast thorn-jungle, which seemed to defy the passage of man or beast. It was doubly fortunate, therefore, that we met this river, as its sides served as a good and open road, while a plentiful supply of water was afforded by the occasional pools. It was here, at last, that we arrived at some Damara villages, on the fifth day after leaving Otjironjuba. At first, the natives tried to run away; but we captured a few women, which soon induced the men to return. These people had never before seen a white man; and our sudden appearance, therefore, created no small astonishment, not to say consternation. But of all our property, nothing amused them more than the sight of a looking-glass. On finding that the mirror faithfully reflected the smallest of their motions or gesticulations, they became convulsed with laughter; and some of them were so excited, as to throw themselves on the ground, pressing their hands against their stomachs. Others would approach with their faces to the glass, as close as they could, then suddenly turn it round, fully expecting somebody at its back. It is a great pity that the Damaras are such unmitigated scoundrels, for they are full of fun and merriment. Give them a "yard of meat," and a bucket of water, and they are the happiest creatures on the face of the earth.

After some parleying, a man agreed to guide us to the lake. An afternoon's further traveling brought us to a second werft, the captain of which was the jolliest and the most amusing Damara that we ever saw before or since. He mimicked the figure and the actions of the hippopotamus so admirably, that we should never have mistaken the animal, even had we not known a word of the language. He also gave us an amusing and laughable account of the people to the north.

One day more, and the goal of our hopes and anxieties would be realized! We carefully examined our mackintosh punt to see that it was sound, as we fully purposed to spend a few weeks on the shores of Omanbondè, in order to enjoy some fishing and shooting.

By this time, we had lost sight of Omuvereoom, which gradually dwindled into a mere sand-ridge, and was now identified with the plain. The vley river, just mentioned, which had so long befriended us, we also left behind, and were now traveling across a very sandy tract of country. Fortunately, though the

bushes were very thick, only a few were thorny. Moreover, their wood, which was quite new to us, was of so brittle a nature that, although trees from five to six inches in diameter repeatedly obstructed our path, our ponderous vehicles crushed them to the ground like so many rotten sticks. An European can form no conception of the impracticable country one has to travel over in these parts, and the immense difficulties that must be surmounted. To give a faint idea of the obstructions of this kind of traveling, we will suppose a person suddenly placed at the entrance of a primæval forest of unknown extent, never trodden by the foot of man, the haunt of savage beasts, and with soil as yielding as that of an English sand-down; to this must be added a couple of ponderous vehicles, as large as the coalvans met with in the streets of London, only a great deal stouter -to each of which are yoked sixteen or twenty refractory, halftrained oxen. Let him then be told-" Through yonder wood lies your road; nothing is known of it. Make your way as well as you can; but, remember, your cattle will perish if they do not get water in the course of two or three days."

No greater calamity could possibly befall us, than the breaking of an axle-tree at a distance from water. Therefore, every time the wagons struck against a tree, or when the wheels mounted on a stone, several feet in height-from which they descended with a crash like thunder-I would pull up abruptly, and hold my breath till all danger was over, when a weight, like that of the nightmare, fell from my mind. However, in the course of time, we became tolerably accustomed to the hazards that beset us, and looked almost with indifference on the dangers which constantly 'threatened destruction to our conveyances.

About noon, on the 5th of April, we were rapidly approaching Omanbondè; but, oh, how were we disappointed! My heart beat violently with excitement. The sleepy motion of the oxen, as they toiled through the heavy sand, being far too slow for my eagerness and excited imagination, I proceeded considerably in advance of the wagons, with about half-a-dozen Damaras, when all at once the country became open, and I found myself on some rising ground, gently sloping towards the bed of what I thought to be a dry water-course.

"There!" suddenly exclaimed one of the natives-" there is Omanbondè!"

"Omanbondè!" I echoed, almost in despair; "but where, in the name of heaven, is the water?" heart failed me, and I sat down

I could say no more, for my

122

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DISAPPOINTMENT.

till the wagons came up; when, pointing to the dry river-bed, I told Galton that he saw the Lake before him.

"Nonsense!" he replied; "it is only the end or tail of it which you see there."

After having descended into the bed, we continued to travel, at a rapid pace, about a mile in a westerly direction, when, at a bend, we discovered a large patch of green reeds. At this sight, a momentary ray of hope brightened up every countenance; but the next instant it vanished, for we found that the natives were actually searching for water amongst the rushes!

The truth at last dawned upon us. We were indeed at Omanbondè-the lake of hippopotami! We all felt utter prostration of heart. For a long while we were unable to give utterance to our feelings. We first looked at the reeds before us, then at each other in mute dismay and astonishment. A dried-up vley, very little more than a mile in extent, and a patch of reeds, was the only reward for months of toil and anxiety.

CHAPTER XIV.

OMANBONDÈ VISITED BY HIPPOPOTAMI - VEGETATION, ETC., DESCRIBED

GAME SOMEWHAT SCARCE-COMBAT BETWEEN ELEPHANT AND RHINOCEROS-ADVANCE OR RETREAT-FAVORABLE REPORTS OF THE OVAMBOLAND-RESOLVE TO PROCEED THERE-RECONNOITRE THE COUNTRYDEPART FROM OMANBONDÈ AUTHOR SHOOTS A GIRAFFE-SPLENDID MIRAGE-THE FAN-PALM-THE GUIDE ABSCONDS-COMMOTION AMONGST THE NATIVES-ARRIVE AT OKAMABUTI-UNSUCCESSFUL ELEPHANT HUNT -VEGETATION-ACCIDENT TO WAGON-OBLIGED TO PROCEED ON OXBACK-THE PARTY GO ASTRAY-BABOON FOUNTAIN-MEETING WITH THE OVAMBO; THEIR PERSONAL APPEARANCE, ETC.-RETURN TO ENCAMPMENT-AN ELEPHANT KILLED-DISCOVER A CURIOUS PLANT-IM

MORALITY-REFLECTIONS.

DRY as the basin of Omanbondè then was, it, nevertheless, appeared evident that, at no distant period, it had contained a good deal of water. Moreover, there could be but little doubt as to hippopotami having also, at one time, existed there.

On becoming better acquainted with the geography of these regions, we thought we were able to explain the phenomenon satisfactorily. Thus, for instance, from (or to ?) the deep, troughshaped basin of Omanbondè leads a peculiar water-course, in an easterly direction, called Omuramba-'k'Omanbondè, consisting of a succession of immense gullies, very similar to Omanbondè itself. These (after being in a short time joined by the Omuramba-k'Omatako), we supposed to be connected with some large permanent water, abounding with hippopotami. In sea

1 Omuramba, in the Damara language, signifies a water-course, in the bed of which both grass and water are to be found.

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OMANBONDÈ

VISITED BY

HIPPOPOTAMI.

sons when rains are plentiful, these troughs, or gullies, fill, and, no doubt, retain water from one rainy period to another, which enables the animals to travel at their ease to Omanbondè. Indeed, by similar omurambas they have found their way even as far south as Schmelen's Hope. According to Jonker Afrikaner's account, a hippopotamus had taken up its abode at this place, but was at last killed by a sudden inundation of the Swakop. The carcass was washed up at the mouth of the Tjobis, where he saw its remains.

On a first look at Damara-land, an inexperienced person would "as soon expect," as Mr. Galton says, "a hippopotamus to have traveled across the great Sahara, as from Omanbondè to Tjobis." The fact, however, is that this country, after heavy rains, differs as much from its normal state as a sea-beach, when dry and when at spring-tide.

Little or no rain had fallen this year at Omanbondè, and, consequently, it presented a very dreary and uninteresting appearance. In its bed, however, we discovered several wells, which, together with numerous remains of Damara villages, clearly indicated that the so-called lake was, at times, largely resorted to by the natives.

The vegetation remained precisely as hitherto ; but the thorn coppices were, if possible, thicker and more harassing. The monotony of the scene was somewhat relieved by clumps of very fine kameel-doorn trees.

Game was rather scarce, yet I managed to bag a few red bucks (pallahs) and koodoos. Tracks of giraffes, rhinoceroses, and elephants were by no means uncommon; but I never had the good fortune to fall in with any of these animals.

Furious battles are said to take place occasionally between the two last-named; and though, of course, strength in the elephant is infinitely superior to the rhinoceros, the latter, on account of his swiftness and sudden movements, is by no means a despicable antagonist. Indeed, instances are known where they have perished together. At Omanbondè, we were told that a combat of this kind occurred not long before our arrival. A rhinoceros, having encountered an elephant, made a furious dash at him, striking his long sharp horn into the belly of his antagonist, with such force as to be unable to extricate himself; and, in his fall, the elephant crushed his assailant to death.

In sauntering one day about the neighborhood of Omanbondè, Galton suddenly found himself confronted by a lion, which seems greatly to have terrified him; and he candidly tells us