CHAPTER XIII.

DEPART FROM SCHMELEN'S HOPE-MEETING WITH KAHICHENE OXEN STOLEN SUMMARY JUSTICE-SUPERSTITION-MEETING AN OLD FRIEND -SINGULAR CUSTOM-GLUTTONY OF THE DAMARAS-HOW THEY EAT FLESH BY THE YARD AND NOT BY THE POUND-SUPERSTITIOUS CUSTOM -A NONDESCRIPT ANIMAL-THE AUTHOR LOSES HIS WAY-RAVAGES OF THE TERMITES-" WAIT A BIT, IF YOU PLEASE"-MAGNIFICENT FOUNTAIN -REMAINS OF DAMARA VILLAGES-HORRORS OF WAR-MEET BUSHMEN -MEET DAMARAS—DIFFICULTIES ENCOUNTERED BY AFRICAN TRAVELERS -REACH THE LAKE OMANBONDÈ CRUEL DISAPPOINTMENT.

On the morning of the 3rd of March, we left Schmelen's Hope. The alternately rugged and sandy nature of the soil, the embarrassing thorn-coppices, and the stubbornness and viciousness of the oxen, rendered our progress at first very slow and tedious.

On the fifth day, we arrived at a splendid vley, called Kotjiamkombè. From the branches of the trees and bushes which lined the sides of this piece of water, were suspended innumerable graceful and fanciful nests of the well-known weaver-bird species. The rank grasses and reeds afforded shelter to a great variety of water-fowl, some of which were gorgeously plumaged. Here we found Kahichenè waiting to receive us; he had already announced his intention to visit us, and, in order to propitiate our favor, had, a few days previously, forwarded us a present of several head of cattle. The chief was accompanied by about forty of his people, who, taking them as a whole, were the finest body of men I have ever seen before or since. Yet they were all arrant knaves. Kahichenè told them as much in our presence; but, strange to say, they were not in the least abashed.

This tribe had, at one time, been the richest, the most numerous, and the most powerful in the country; but what with

their own civil broils, and the exterminating wars with the Namaquas, they had gradually dwindled to about twenty-five villages, with, perhaps, ten or fifteen thousand head of horned cattle.1

Notwithstanding Kahichenè, in former days, had committed many depredations against his neighbors, we could not help liking him. In a very short time, he had thoroughly ingratiated himself in our favor. Indeed, he was the only Damara, whether high or low, for whom we entertained any regard. Perhaps, also, his late misfortunes had insured our sympathy. With the missionaries, Kahichenè had always been a great favorite, and they looked upon him as the stepping-stone to the future civilization of Damara-land; but we have already seen how far this was realized.

Kahichenè was somewhat advanced in years; but his deportment was dignified and courteous. He was, moreover, truthful and courageous-rare virtues amongst his countrymen. would have been well had the rest of the nation at all resembled this chief.

It

Kahichenè was, at this period, at variance with a very warlike and powerful tribe of Damaras, under the rule of Omugundè, or rather his son, whom he represented as a man degraded by every vice, and particularly inimical towards strangers. We of course made due allowances, as our friend was speaking of his mortal enemy; but the account so terrified our men, that three of them begged to be dismissed, and they could only be persuaded to discontinue their solicitation by our promising them not to pass through the territory of the hostile chief.

On one occasion, some cattle, belonging to Mr. Hahn, had been stolen by a party of Omugundè's men. Remonstrances being made, they were, after a time, returned, but minus their tails, which were cut off by the natives, and kept by them as "trophies."

In conflict with Omugundè, several of Kahichenè's children had been killed, and one or two had unfortunately fallen alive into the hands of the enemy. These were kept as prisoners. Only one stripling was now left to solace Kahichenè in his old age. He informed us that he had made up his mind to try to recover his offspring and his property, or to die in the attempt. At first, he appeared anxious for our assistance; but, on mature consideration, he generously refused any interference on our part in

1 Previously to my leaving Africa, I learnt that the entire tribe had been broken up.

.

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SUMMARY

JUSTICE.

his behalf. "For," said he, "when once the war begins, there is no saying when or where it will end. The whole country will be in an uproar; much blood will be shed; and it would involve you in endless difficulties and dangers." He, moreover, strongly endeavored to persuade us from proceeding northwards at all; but, in that matter, he, of course, failed.

We had only been a short time at Kotjiamkombè, when it was discovered that four of our best draught-oxen were stolen by some stranger Damaras. On being informed of this theft, Kahichenè became exceedingly annoyed, and even distressed, as he considered us under his special protection. He immediately dispatched men on their tracks, with strict orders to recover the oxen, and, if possible, to bring back the thieves. They succeeded in recapturing all the beasts but one, which the natives had slain and eaten. With regard to the fate of the rogues, we could never ascertain anything with certainty. We were, however, strongly inclined to think they were all killed-the more so, as Kahichenè himself told us, that in case of their capture, they ought to be punished with death, and coolly suggested hanging as the most eligible way of ridding the world of such scoundrels. We, of course, took the liberty to remonstrate with the chief upon the severity of this measure; but with little or no effect. Indeed, one man was accidentally found, at a distance from our camp, in a horribly mangled state; and, on being brought to us, he stated, that he himself, together with several of his friends, were driving away the cattle, when they were overtaken by Kahichenè's men, who immediately attacked them with their kieries, and only left them when they thought life was extinct. He had, however, partially recovered, but was completely naked, having, as is usual on similar occasions, been stripped of every article of dress. The exterior of his body was nearly covered with blood. The head was almost double its natural size; indeed, it resembled rather a lump of mashed flesh; no particular feature could be distinguished, and his eyes were effectually hidden from view. The sight altogether was hideous.

Instead of proceeding due north, as was originally proposed, it was found necessary, in order to avoid Omugunde, to make a considerable détour to the westward. As Kahichenè, with his tribe, was encamped in that direction, he invited us to take his werft by the way, to which we cordially assented. On the day of our departure from Kotjiamkombè, the chief led the way. A А branch of a particular kind of wood (having a small, red, bitter berry, not unlike that of the mountain-ash) was trailed before

CARCASSES OF ANIMALS PUBLIC PROPERTY. 113

him a superstitious act thought to be essential in insuring success during the pending attack against his mortal enemy.

Before reaching the chief's kraal, we passed the foot of a very conspicuous mountain, called Ombotodthu. This elevation is remarkable for its peculiar red stone, which is eagerly sought after by the natives. Having reduced it to powder they mix it with fat, when it is used as an ointment. I was at first struck by its great resemblance to quicksilver ore, and was led to believe that we had really discovered a mine of that valuable mineral. However, on considering the harmless effect it had on the natives, and that, had it been quicksilver, its use would have produced an opposite result, I came to the conclusion that it was simply oxide of iron, which has since been confirmed by analyzation.

On arriving at Kahichenè's werft, we were well received by our host and his tribe, from whom we obtained by barter a few head of cattle. Indeed, we might here have sold all our articles of exchange to great advantage; but this was not thought advisable, as in case of the cattle being lost or stolen, we should have been in a state of complete destitution. Could we, however, have foreseen the future, our tactics would have been different; for, as it afterwards turned out, this was almost the last opportunity we had of providing ourselves with live-stock.

By a strange chance, I accidently became the owner of a percussion rifle, which had at one time belonged to Hans, but who, years previously, had disposed of it to a Damara. The latter, however, finding that he could not obtain a regular supply of caps, offered to exchange it for a common flint-lock musket. The rifle was a very indifferent and clumsy-looking concern, and had, if I remember rightly, been manufactured by Powell, of London. In justice to the maker, however, I must confess that a man could not possibly wish for a better. Whilst in my possession, many hundred head of large game, to say nothing of a host of bustards, geese, ducks, guinea-fowl, etc., fell to this piece.

Game was abundant in the neighborhood of Kahichenè's kraal, and Hans made several successful shots. Very little, however, of what was killed reached us; for the portion not immediately appropriated by the Damaras, ultimately found its way to them through the medium of our native servants. In Damara-land, the carcasses of all animals-whether wild or domesticated-are considered public property; therefore, unless the natives should share their allowances with every stranger that might choose to intrude himself into their com

114

PRPARING

AND EATING MEAT.

pany, a withering "curse" is supposed to befall them. I have seen the flesh of four zebras, that had been shot by our party, brought to the camp in a single day, and the next morning we could not obtain a steak for our breakfast.

The Damaras are the most voracious and improvident creatures in the world. When they have flesh they gorge upon it night and day, and in the most disgusting manner, until not a particle is left; and as a consequence, they not unfrequently starve for several days together. But they are so accustomed to this mode of living, that it has no injurious effect on them.

In this hot climate, unless preventives of some kind were adopted, flesh would, of course, soon become tainted; and as salt, from the difficulty of conveyance, is exceedingly scarce in Damara-land, the following expedient is adopted. As soon as the animal is killed, lumps are indiscriminately cut from the carcass; a knife is plunged into an edge of one of these lumps, and passed round in a spiral manner, till it arrives at the middle, when a string of meat, often ten to twenty feet long, is produced, which is then suspended like festoons, to the branches of the surrounding trees. By cutting the flesh very thin, it soon dries, and may in that state be carried about any length of time. There is considerable waste in this process, as fully onethird of the meat thus jerked is lost. On such occasions, the natives take care not to forget their own stomachs. Besides large pots filled with the most delicate morsels, immense coils may be seen frizzling on the coals, in every direction. When half-roasted, they seize one end with their hands, and, applying it to their mouth, they tug away voraciously, not being over particular as to mastication. In this way they soon manage to get through a yard or two, the place of pepper and salt being supplied by ashes attached to the flesh, which ashes are moreover found to be an excellent remedy against bad digestion.

I frequently abserved the daughter of Kahichenè's favorite wife sprinkling water over the large oxen as they returned to the werft about noon to quench their thirst. On such occasions she made use of a small branch of some kind of berry-tree, such as that which Kahichenè caused to be trailed after him when wishing to be successful in his attack on Omugunde. In this instance (as they somewhat poetically expressed themselves) the aspersion was supposed, should the cattle be stolen, to have the power of scattering them like drops of water, in order to confuse. their pursuers, and to facilitate their return to the owners.

On the 18th of March we were again en route. It was with regret that we parted with our friendly and hospitable host.