LAKE NGAMI,

CHAPTER I.

DEPARTURE FROM SWEDEN-DAY DREAMS-FRATERNAL LOVE-A

TEMPT

ING OFFER-PREPARATIONS FOR JOURNEY ΤΟ AFRICA-DEPARTURE FROM ENGLAND-ARRIVAL AT THE CAPE-TOWN AND INHABITANTSTABLE MOUNTAIN-CURIOUS LEGEND-PREPARATION FOR JOURNEY INTO THE INTERIOR-DEPARTURE FOR WALFISCH BAY.

It was at the close of the year 1849, that I left Gothenbourg, in a sailing vessel, for Hull, at which place I arrived in safety, after a boisterous and somewhat dangerous passage, of about fourteen days' duration. Though a Swede by birth, I am half an Englishman by parentage; and it was with pleasure that I visited, for the second time, a country endeared to me by the ties of kindred and the remembrance of former hospitality.

My stay in England, however, was intended to be only of short duration. I carried with me thither a considerable collection of living birds and quadrupeds, together with numerous preserved specimens of natural history, the produce of many a long hunting excursion amidst the mountains, lakes, and forests of my native country. These I was anxious to dispose of in England, and then proceed in my travels, though to what quarter of the globe, I had scarcely yet determined.

From my earliest youth, my day-dreams had carried me into the wilds of Africa. Passionately fond of traveling, accustomed from my childhood to field sports, and to the study of natural history, and (as I hope I may say with truth) desirous of ren

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dering myself useful in my generation, I earnestly longed to explore some portion of that continent where all my predilections could be fully indulged, and where much still remained in obscurity which might advantageously be brought to light. The expense, however, of such a journey, was, to me, an insurmountable obstacle. I had, therefore, long since given up all idea of making it, and had turned my thoughts northwards to Iceland, a country within my reach, and where I purposed studying the habits and characteristics of the rarer species of birds of the northern fauna. While at Hull, accordingly, I consulted some whaling captains on the subject of my enterprise, and had almost completed my arrangements, when a visit to London, on some private affairs, entirely changed my destination.

Before leaving Hull, I witnessed a striking example of that attachment towards each other, so frequently found to exist in the most savage animals. By the kindness of the Secretary, I had been permitted to place my collection in the gardens of the Hull Zoological Society. Amongst others, were two brown bears-twins-somewhat more than a year old, and playful as kittens when together. Indeed, no greater punishment could be inflicted upon these beasts than to disunite them, for however short a time. Still there was a marked contrast in their dispositions. One of them was good-tempered and gentle as a lamb, while the other frequently exhibited signs of a sulky and treacherous character. Tempted by an offer for the purchase of the former of these animals, I consented, after much hesitation, to his being separated from his brother.

It was long before I forgave myself this act. On the following day, on my proceeding, as usual, to inspect the collection, one of the keepers ran up to me, in the greatest haste, exclaiming: "Sir, I am glad you are come, for your bear has gone mad!" He then told me that, during the night, the beast had destroyed his den, and was found in the morning roaming wild about the garden. Luckily, the keeper managed to seize him just as he was escaping into the country, and, with the help of several others, succeeded in shutting him up again. The bear, however, refused his food, and raved in so fearful a manner that, unless he could be quieted, it was clear he would do some mischief.

On my arrival at his den, I found the poor brute in a most furious state, tearing the wooden floor with his claws, and gnawing the barricaded front with his teeth. I had no sooner opened the door, than he sprang furiously at me, and struck

PREPARATIONS

FOR JOURNEY то AFRICA. 3

me repeated blows with his powerful paws. As, however, I had reared him from a cub, we had too often measured our strength together, for me to fear him now; and I soon made. him retreat into the corner of his prison, where he remained howling in the most heart-rending manner. It was a most sickening sight to behold the poor creature with his eyes bloodshot, and protruding from the sockets-his mouth and chest white with foam, and his body crusted with dirt. I am not ashamed to confess, that at one time I felt my own eyes moistened. Neither blows nor kind words were of any effect: they only served to irritate and infuriate him; and I saw clearly that the only remedy would be, either to shoot him or to restore him to his brother's companionship. I chose the latter alternative; and the purchaser of the other bear, my kind friend Sir Henry Hunloke, on being informed of the circumstance, consented to take this one, also.

Shortly after my arrival in London, Sir Hyde Parker, another valued friend of mine, and "The King of Fishermen," introduced me to Mr. Francis Galton, who was then just on the point of undertaking an expedition to Southern Africa; his intention being to explore the unknown regions beyond the boundary of the Cape-of-Good-Hope Colony, and to penetrate, if possible, to the recently-discovered Lake Ngami. Upon finding that I, also, had an intention of traveling, and that our tastes and pursuits were, in many respects, similar, he proposed to me to give up my talked-of trip to the far north, and accompany him to the southward-promising, at the same time, to pay the whole of my expenses. This offer awoke within me all my former ambition; and, although I could not be blind to the difficulties and dangers that must necessarily attend such an expedition, I embraced, after some hesitation, Mr. Galton's tempting and liberal proposal.

Preparations for our long and hazardous journey were now rapidly made. An immense quantity of goods of every kind was speedily amassed, intended, partly for barter, and partly for presents to barbarous chiefs. Muskets, long sword-knives. boar-spears, axes, hatchets, clasp-and-strike-light knives, Dutch tinder-boxes, daggers, burning-glasses, compasses, gilt rings (copper or brass), alarums, beads of every size and color, wolftraps, rat-traps, old military dresses, cast-off ambassadors' uni forms-these and a host of other articles too various to enumerate, formed our stock-in-trade.

To the above, we added, mostly for our own use, guns and rifles, a vast quantity of ammunition of all kinds, instruments

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DEPARTURE

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ENGLAND.

for taking observations, arsenical and other preparations for preserving objects of natural history, writing-materials, sketchbooks, paints, pencils, canteens, knives, forks, dishes, etc.

It was also deemed advisable that we should take with us boats for the navigation of Lake Ngami-those used by the natives being unsafe. We, therefore, supplied ourselves with three, each adapted for a specific purpose.

Having thus provided, as far as possible, for all emergencies, we transferred ourselves and baggage on board the splendid, but unfortunate ship, the Dalhousie. Here we found, to our dismay, in addition to a number of other passengers, several hundred emigrants, destined to the Cape-of-Good-Hope. Instead, however, of these people proving, as we had at first anticipated, a great annoyance, we found that they contributed considerably towards enlivening and diverting us during a long and tedious passage.

I am not, however, about to inflict upon my readers the particulars of our voyage to the Cape. Suffice it to say that, after a few days' delay at Plymouth, we put to sea in half a gale of wind, on the 7th of April, 1850, and experienced, subsequently, the usual vicissitudes of rough and smooth weather. At one time, we were carried by a gentle breeze past the lovely island of Madeira, and so near as to distinguish its pleasant vineyards, and neat, pretty cottages, scattered over the mountain side to the very summit; at another, we were driven so far westward, by gales and adverse winds, as to sight the coast of South America; until, at length, on the night of the 23d of June, the much wished-for land was descried, and on the following noon we anchored safely in Table Bay, after a passage of eighty-six days-a time at least a third longer than the average. How truly welcome to my eyes, as we sailed into the bay, was the fine panoramic view of Cape-Town, with the picturesque Table Mountain rising immediately in the background!

Upon landing, we took up our quarters at Welch's hotel. Our design was to stay a short time at Cape-Town, in order to obtain information respecting our intended route, and to procure whatever was still wanting for our journey. We then

It will, doubtless, be remembered, that, in a gale of wind off the British coast, the Dalhousie was thrown on her beam-ends, and foundered in half an hour afterwards, when, with a single exception, every soul on board perished. Out of the several vessels in which I have at different times been a passenger, the Dalhousie is the third that has perished shortly after my leaving her!