The Cultural Politics of FurCornell University Press, 1997 - 249 sider "A fascinating account of the powerful roles fur has played in various cultures and of the historical and political forces at work in the play of its meanings."--Jonathan Culler, Cornell University "In this well-written treatise, Emberley... views fur through widely disparate lenses.... Emberley is able to make us understand all the viewpoints she presents.... A valuable book on a little-explored subject."--Library Journal "This is a strong and intelligent work on a controversial topic. Emberley's book is much more intellectually sophisticated than anything else I've seen on this subject."--Valerie Steele, Editor, Fashion Theory "Julia Emberley's book is a complex, wide-ranging, and fascinating feminist critique of the history and meaning of fur and fashion. Particularly unique is her integration of indigenous voices into the debates."--Lucy Lippard, author of The Pink Glass Swan: Selected Feminist Essays on Art Fur has been sparking controversies ever since sumptuary laws marked it as a luxury item and as a sign of medieval class privilege. Drawing on wide-ranging historical and contemporary sources, Julia V. Emberley explains how a material good has become both a symbol of wealth and sexuality, and a symptom of class, gender, and imperial antagonisms. |
Indhold
Figures | 7 |
For you 1965 | 10 |
Pet Shop 1994 | 14 |
2 | 22 |
Fur coat with matching accessories 1984 | 25 |
It takes up to 40 dumb animals 1984 | 29 |
Feminist graffiti on Lynx antifur poster London 1985 | 31 |
Rich BitchPoor Bitch 1984 | 32 |
English Lady in Winter Costume Wenceslaus Hollar 1644 | 119 |
Jan Arnolfini and His Wife Jan Van Eyck 1434 | 125 |
The Ambassadors Hans Holbein 1533 | 128 |
Mommy Deer Judy Olausen 1996 | 134 |
Mother in Camouflage Judy Olausen 1996 | 135 |
6 | 139 |
Presence through Absence Arinia Ailincai detail of installation Banff 1994 | 156 |
Photographic stills from Nanook of the North 1922 | 162 |
3 | 44 |
Englishman with scissors 1542 | 58 |
Cosmetics counter in the Toronto Queen Street Bay store Hudsons Bay Company annual report 1994 | 68 |
Man licking the shoe of a woman in a fur coat ca 1937 | 74 |
4 | 76 |
Nicole Brown Simpson as White Venus 1981 | 92 |
5 | 105 |
Embroidered bodice ca 1620 | 106 |
Portrait of Margaret Laton Marcus Gheeraerts ca 1620 | 107 |
Muffs Wenceslaus Hollar 1647 | 112 |
Muffs Wenceslaus Hollar 1647 | 113 |
Muffs Wenceslaus Hollar 1642 | 114 |
Winter Wenceslaus Hollar 1641 | 115 |
Winter Wenceslaus Hollar 1644 | 116 |
Winter with Cornhill in the background Wenceslaus Hollar 16431644 | 117 |
Photographic stills from Nanook of the North 1922 | 163 |
Eskimo Chic 1994 | 168 |
Furs in Disguise 1992 | 172 |
Inuit fur fashions Qaggiq 1995 | 175 |
Inuit fur fashions Qaggiq 1995 | 176 |
Inuit fur fashions Qaggiq 1995 | 177 |
Inuit fur fashions Sanajavut 1996 | 178 |
Inuit fur fashions Sanajavut 1996 | 179 |
Inuit fur fashions Sanajavut 1996 | 180 |
High Heels in the Arctic anonymous 1959 | 183 |
Ida Aivek wearing a fabric Mother Hubbard | 200 |
Elizabeth Chocolate scraping a hide at a camp south of Edzo 1990 | 201 |
Hide drying in the open air 1990 | 202 |