This forest is 9 miles long, and about 8 broad. The village of Waterloo receives us immediately on leaving the forest, but contains nothing to attract our attention, except the elegant little chapel, built 1855, surmounted by a handsome dome, and containing several marble tablets to the memory of those who fell in the contest, and the house in which the leg of Lord Uxbridge was amputated. The spot in the garden in which the shattered leg was buried, is marked by a small monument. In this church are thirty tablets and monuments, melancholy memorials of the horrible vicissitudes of war, of its victims the English officers who fell on that memorable field. "Many a wounded Briton there was laid With such poor help as time might then allow Their gallant comrades' rank and where they fell." It was in this village that the Duke of Wellington established his head-quarters on the night of the 17th of June, 1815. About a mile beyond Waterloo we pass through the hamlet of Mount St. Jean, and leaving the road to Nivelles on the right, we proceed in the direction of Genappe and Charleroi, and soon after arrive at the farm of Mount St. Jean, which was immediately in the rear of the centre of the British line. Proceeding further on the road to Charleroi, we arrive at La Belle Alliance, a farm-house and hamlet situate on the opposite ridge, and corresponding with the farm of Mount St. Jean. This is the extent of the scene of the tourist's observation; and before drawing his attention to the minute localities, we proceed to recall to his mind the principal events of those memorable battles. The campaign of 1815 was remarkable for its brief duration-four days; yet, in that short space of time, 50,000 human beings were swept from the face of the earth by the ruthless hand of war. On the 15th of June, the French army, commanded by the Emperor Napoleon in person, and consisting of about 160,000 men, 20,000 of whom were the old imperial guards, all well equipped, and accompanied by a numerous train of artillery, passed the Sambre, and having defeated some regiments of Prussians, took possession of Charleroi, a town, at that time, without defence. On the 16th they advanced into the plains of Fleurus, where the fate of Belgium has thrice been decided, and at Ligny attacked the Prussian army, whose commander, Field-Marshal Blücher, narrowly escaped being taken prisoner. He had been thrown from his horse in the midst of the action, when surrounded on all sides by the pursuing enemy, whose precipitation alone prevented their recognising the marshal's person. A momentary repulse of the French by a body of Prussian cavalry, afforded Blücher time to be extricated from his perilous situation and mounted on a dragoon's horse. The French took some pieces of artillery and remained masters of the field. While these operations were rapidly carrying on, a strong column of French troops advanced towards Quatre Bras, a point of junction of four roads, nearly twenty miles from Brussels, on the road to Charleroi, where the Prince of Orange was posted with a division composed partly of Belgian and partly of British troops. A warm action took place, in which the young prince displayed the greatest bravery and ability, and the Duke of Brunswick was killed at the head of his famous black corps, so called from wearing a black uniform, out of respect to the memory of the duke, his father, who was mortally wounded at the battle of Jena. During the night this division of the troops fell back upon Waterloo to join the Duke of Wellington, commander-in-chief of the Anglo-Belgian army, who had his head-quarters in that village; his troops were posted in front of the forest of Soignies, in an extensive line, covered by entrenchments, and defended by a numerous train of artillery. This position occupied a line of about one mile and a half in length, the centre being in front of the farmhouse of Mount St. Jean; the left extending along the ridge until the extreme flank reached a hamlet called Smouken, and a farm-house named Papelotte, and having in front the farm of La Haye - Sainte, whence a succession of broken roads formed a precarious communication with The sian general, Blücher, appeared on their flanks, at the head of two divisions. A frightful panic then spread through the French ranks, and Bonaparte, abandoned by fortune, whose idol he had so often seemed, was hurried from the field by the im Blücher's position at Wavre; and the right stretching along the same heights, following their direction in a semicircular slope backwards until the extreme flank rested on Marle-Braine, where it was protected by a ravine. The right of the British army, extending along the same emi-petuous torrent of fugitives. All the French nence, occupied and protected the Nivelles Road as far as the enclosures of Hougoumont. ground in front of the British position sloped easily down into lower ground, forming a sort of valley-not a level plain, but a declivity, varied by many gentle sweeps and hollows, as if formed by the course of a river. The ground then ascends in the same manner to a ridge opposite to that of Mount St. Jean, and running parallel to it at the distance of twelve or fourteen hundred yards. This was the position of the enemy. The valley between the two ridges is entirely open and uninclosed, and on that memorable day bore a tall and strong crop of corn. But in the centre of the valley, about half way between the two ridges, and situated considerably to the right of the English centre, was the Château de Goumont, or Hougoumont. This was a gentleman's house of the old Flemish architecture, having a tower and battlements. It was surrounded on one side by a large farm-yard, and on the other opening to a garden and orchard, and faced by a brick wall: the whole encircled by a grove of tall trees. This château, with the advantages afforded by its wood and orchard, formed a strong point d'appui to the British right wing. The château was occupied by a detachment of the guards under Lord Saltoun. The French army was full two miles in length, extending along the opposite ridge, and having La Belle Alliance in the centre of their line. Napoleon at this time had about 100,000 men with him; and the allies about 70,000, exclusive of the Prussians. Here took place, on the 18th of June, the sanguinary battle by which the fate of Europe was decided. It began at eleven o'clock in the morning and continued till seven in the evening. The boldness and exasperation exhibited by the French troops in their repeated attacks have few parallels in history; whilst the English received each successive shock with the coolest and most determined intrepidity. The French army was preparing to make a last assault, when the Prus artillery, a great part of the baggage, and even the private carriage of Napoleon fell into the hands of the victors. This victory, however, was dearly purchased. The loss to the victors was great indeed. Beside the Generals Picton and Ponsonby, the loss of the British and Hanoverians on the 16th and 18th, amounted to not less than 13,000 men and 750 officers, the flower of the army, of whom more than two-thirds fell at Waterloo; the total loss of the Prussians, from the commencement of the campaign, to their second triumphant entry into Paris, has been officially stated at 38,000; but that of the French almost exceed belief. They began the day between 155,000 to 160,000 strong; and from their own account the wreck of the army when it was collected together did not amount to 60,000 men. Who can think of this work of human destruction without a thrill of horror at the dreadful havoc of modern warfare, or what man would hesitate to adopt the christian principles of peace and good will, with the view of averting such inhuman conflicts as these scenes have witnessed, or of which these plains were the theatre. From that moment the village of Waterloo became an object of interesting curiosity to travellers of all nations, but above all to the English, who contemplate, with a melancholy pride, fields which have been moistened with the life-springs of so many of their fellow countrymen. Having briefly traced the momentous events that will long continue to impart a powerful interest to the plains of Waterloo, we proceed to point out such particular land-marks as may serve to give the tourist a correct idea of the positions taken by the contending armies during the contest, and, with the assistance of a few details, enable him to ascertain the precise spot of many heroic deeds. For this purpose, it is necessary to retrace our steps, in order to commence with the Forest of Soignies. The forest presents itself at a mile and three-quarters from the village, and after displaying all the majestic grandeur of sylvan scenery, disappears a little beyond Waterloo. The principal road through the wood to this village is of great length and extreme regularity; but the unvarying, uniform appearance of the trees which fringe it, give a sombre aspect to the route. The forest, which is about seven miles and a half in breadth, and nine miles in length, contains many defiles, and is interspersed with lakes, vales, brooks, hamlets, and cultivated plains. Great quantities of oak were felled by command of Bonaparte, in order to supply the dockyards at Amsterdam; but the forest still abounds in fine timber, and a thousand acres of it, which belong to the Duke of Wellington, are said to yield a revenue of forty francs an acre. The proximity of this immense mass of wood to Brussels, renders the city somewhat damp and cold when the wind blows from that quarter; on the other hand, from its great attractive powers, thunder-clouds frequently discharge themselves there, which might otherwise carry heavy storms into the town. Nearly at the extremity of the forest, and about ten miles from Brussels, stands Waterloo, as before-mentioned. Mont St. Jean.-This hamlet, which, as beforementioned, is more than a mile from Waterloo, at a place where the road divides into two branches, of which that on the left leads to Genappe, and that on the right to Nivelles, must not be confounded by the tourist with the farm-house of Mount St. Jean, half a mile in advance of the village, on the road to the farm of La Haye Sainte, which was in the immediate rear of the British position. From this farm an easy ascent leads to the ridge which formed the line of occupation of the British army. Near the centre of this ridge stood the Wellington tree, so called in consequence of the duke having taken his station there during a great part of the 18th. This tree was cut down and sold in 1821. In front is a little valley, irregularly formed, with numerous gentle windings and hollows, and varying in breadth from a quarter to half a mile. This was the scene of the murderous conflict. The opposite ridges, running parallel to Mount St. Jean, were occupied by the French. A stupendous triumphal mound of a conical shape, surmounted by a colossal Belgic lion in bronze, was constructed at the expense of the Netherlands government on the plains of St. Jean. The base of the monument is 160 yards in diameter, and the height of the whole nearly 50 yards. La Haye Sainte.-This is the name of a large farm-house on the road from Mount St. Jean to La Belle Alliance, and about a mile from the former place, on the Genappe road. It was in the left centre of the British position, and a little in advance of Wellington's tree. In the immediate vicinity of this house, which received much injury, in all directions, and especially in what forms the back part of the building, a dreadful carnage took place between the combatants. It was taken by the French army on the day, and maintained by them until nearly the end of the battle. On the side of the building towards the road a monument has been erected to the memory of some officers of the 2nd German Legion, who fell in the onslaught; and at a little distance, on the opposite side of the road, is a hollow way, where 4,000 men and a great number of horses were buried in one common grave. Near this spot fell Sir Thomas Picton, leading a gallant charge on the French cuirassiers. Hougoumont.-The large farm-house or château, so called, was fiercely contested. It is situated on the right of La Haye Sainte from Waterloo, at the distance of about a mile from the former place The British had possession of the house and gardens, and fought with a desperate courage to maintain it; while the French, led on by Jerome Bonaparte, who, though wounded in the arm, still kept the field, made equal efforts to expel them, aware that, if they became masters of the place, the whole of the British lines would be exposed to their fire. It was, in fact, the key-stone of the British position. The garden was protected on three sides by a strong wall, which served our troops as a breast-work, and from behind which they aimed at the assailants with deadly certainty; the unprotected part commanded a view of Lord Wellington's position on the heights. In vain the enemy made repeated attempts to scale the garden wall from the adjoining orchard, and though they thrice entered the gates of Hougoumont, they were as often repulsed, and driven out with severe loss. At length, after a destructive fire of artillery, and the most frightful carnage, the French succeeded in setting the place on fire, and great numbers of killed and wounded on both sides were buried in the ruins. The place was entirely destroyed, with the exception of the chapel and an out-house, which escaped almost uninjured. Many of the surrounding trees were severed in two, while others were completely perforated with balls. A large but rudely-carved figure of the Saviour is placed over the altar in the chapel, which is very small, and by no means curious. La Belle Alliance.-A small farm-house, so called, and serving as an inn of the humblest kind, is situated about three-quarters of a mile from La Haye Sainte, on the road to Genappe. It was here that the Duke of Wellington and Prince Blücher met on the evening of the day of battle. Having embraced in the most affectionate manner, the duke retired on his position, and Blücher went in pursuit of the flying enemy. Bonaparte posted his favourite guard in front of this place, and never approached in person nearer to La Haye Sainte than the hollow part of the ground between that place and La Belle Alliance and the main road. The Prussians have erected a monument in iron near this spot, to commemorate the success of their army. MARKE BRAINE.-This small place is on the right of the village of Mount St. Jean, and about a mile from it. The British reserve on the right, commanded by Major-General Humber, was posted on this part of the field; but no event occurred to render the spot memorable. The ground where the battle was fought produced the best crops in Belgium for many years after the sanguinary event. Over the spot where lay smouldering in ashes the broken fragments of humanity, sacrificed at the shrine of cruel, remorseless war, the green corn of spring waved luxuriantly, and in summer time shot forth its golden ear full of grain, nurtured by the dust of friend and foe, who, but for the fury of war, might have slept peaceably in consecrated earth, beneath the green sward of the village churchyard, and appeared before the God of Peace, undefiled with blood. "But where I stood, beneath the fresh green tre I turned from all she brought to those she could no bring." BYRON. "Was it a soothing or a mournful thought, SOUTHEY. Visitors to Waterloo will find hordes of beggars, and persons selling reliquaries, in the shape of buttons, shreds of cloth, fragments of accoutrements, bullets, many of which are manufactured in the neighbourhood. Very many melancholy memorials of the carnage were brought to light for some years after the battle. There are several other pretty places to which Excursions could be made with pleasure from Brussels, such as Forest, Trois Fontaines, Tervouren, and The history of Saventhem (Station), 12 miles from Brussels, on the Liége line, a commune of the district of Brussels, with 1,200 inhabitants. The Church will well repay a visit to the amateur in painting, who will see there a magnificent picture by Van Dyck, representing St. Martin on his horse, giving a portion of his cloak to a poor man. this painting is interesting, and deserves relating: Van Dyck, on his way to bid farewell to his illustrious master, previous to his departure for Rome, was mounted on a superb horse, a gift from Rubens, and passed by Saventhem. It was a holiday, and the people were dancing under the trees. Van Dyck delayed, and danced with the most beautiful girl in the village, and before the ball was over, found himself deeply in love with her. He was then twenty-four years of age. Rome was forgotten. Days, weeks, and months rolled by; his money was all gone. Van Dyck's passion being now calmed, and his resources exhausted, he found that his interest and fame called him to Rome; but what was he to do, not having a florin to bring him there? Happily his courage sustained him. He presented himself to the curé, and proposed to paint an altar piece for his church. The subject was agreed on, and the price fixed at 100 florins. The painting was finished in five days. Van Dyck himself and his horse served as models for the horse and saint, and the beadle of the church for the poor man. The curé was, by chance, a judge of painting; he paid the demand without murmuring, and Van Dyck set out for Rome. This circumstance provided the poor village church with a chef d'œuvre. ROUTE 7. Brussels to Paris by Charleroi, Erquelinnes, and Creil. Great Luxembourg Station, Quartier Leopold. Distance, 215 miles. This route is considerably shorter than that by Mons and Valenciennes. On leaving Brussels the train passes through several cuttings, on emerging from which it arrives at Boitsfort (Station), being the first station on the Luxembourg line, and is three miles from Brussels. The village lies in a valley on the border of the Forest of Soignies. It is the great resort of pleasure parties, as it contains several excellent restaurants and gardens, where provisions may be obtained at reasonable prices. There are some large sheets of water, well stocked with fish, but strictly preserved. Groenendael (Station), 6 miles from Brussels, is situated in the heart of the Forest, and conveyances may be got for Waterloo in one hour. Near the station may be seen the ruined foundations of a priory, which once existed here, and which must have been a large pile of building. La Hulpe (Station), 9 miles from Brussels, is a village of some importance. It was once a provincial town. From the station there is a fine view over an extensive sheet of water, towards the country seat of the Marquis de Bethune, which is a remarkably fine house, with extensive grounds. From the high ground above the station may be seen, on a clear day, the monumental lion on the field of Waterloo. Rixensart (Station). Ottignies (Station) is 12 miles from Brussels, and forms the junction of the Charleroi and Louvain and the Manage and Wavre lines with that of the Luxembourg (as below). It is one common station for the three companies. There is a considerable movement here, owing to the change of trains by passengers and the goods traffic passing from one line to another. Court St. Etienne (Station).-On leaving this station the traveller should remember that he is approaching one of the most singular and beautiful views in Europe, viz.-The ruins of the Abbey le Villers. Villers la Ville (Station).-The line passes through the garden of the Abbey, and generally so rapidly, that only a glimpse can be obtained of these magnificent ruins. The Tourist should therefore make an excursion expressly to visit them from Brussels, or alight at this station and take a subsequent train on to Paris; but the former course is the most pleasant. The Abbey le Villers is one of the most splendid, romantic, and picturesque piles in Europe. The best view of the ruins is from the terrace gardens beyond the railway; but it is impossible to say which excites the most admiration, the view from the heights around, or a walk through the ruins. No one can behold the refectory, the cloisters, the crypts, the breviary, and last the magnificent ruins of the beautiful church, without feelings of awe and wonder. It is a scene of surpassing beauty, particularly in the effulgence of the noon day or setting sun. The Abbey le Villers was first pillaged, and then set fire to by a party of French Republican soldiers in 1789. The ruins were then sold to a person of the name of La Terrade for 70,000fr., who continued the work of destruction, and left the present ruins, which, with the adjacent land, is now the property of Madeline Huart d'Enghien. Charleroi (Station). Hotels: Du Grande Monarque; De Pays Bas; De l'Univers. Population, 13,500. The centre of flourishing collieries, on the Sambre, having the ruins of the old Abbey d'Alne near it, founded in the year 656. At Charleroi the line branches off, and leads to Walcourt, and having offshoots to Laneffe, Morialme, and Florenne. See Route 8. After passing Erquelinnes, St. Quentin, Creil, and some stations of less importance, we arrive at Paris. |