Billeder på siden
PDF
ePub

mounted by an octagon tower, and contains a Crucifixion and Adoration of the Shepherds, by Van Dyck, and a Virgin and Saints, by Crayer. A rail from Lokeren comes in here.

On leaving Termonde, we pass a great many pretty villages of no note, and leaving East Flanders arrive at

Malderen (Station). A commune containing 1,700 inhabitants, situated at the extremity of the province of Brabant.

Capelle-au-Bois (Station). A little village of no importance. Leaving at a short distance from here the province of Brabant, we enter at Hombeck the province of Antwerp. Passing the ruins of the famous valley of Seliendael, we arrive at MECHLIN (Station)-French, Malines; Ger

man, Mechlen; Flemish, Mechelen.

The Malines station is about five minutes' walk from the town, which is one of the most picturesque Flemish cities. An obelisk is here erected to mark the point where the various Belgic lines of railway diverge to Brussels, Ghent, Antwerp, and Liége. The entrance from the railway station is fine. A line to Terneusen (p. 25) was opened 1871. Population (1873), 38,546.

Mechlin is a large town in the province of Antwerp, divided by the Dyle into two parts. It is equidistant from Brussels, Antwerp, and Louvain. The streets are broad, and bordered in many places by good buildings.

The river Dyle passes through the town, and has an ebb and flow of tide for more than a league beyond Mechlin, in the direction of Louvain.

This town dates its origin as far back as the fifth century, and was long a subject of contention between the lords of Brabant and Flanders.

The lace produced at Mechlin is considered second only to that of Brussels, from which it differs principally in being made in a single piece, by means of bobbins, by which the entire patterns are produced at once, instead of being worked gradually by the hand, and hence it is stronger than the Brussels lace, though inferior to it in delicacy of workmanship.

The principal building of Mechlin is the cathedral, which is the metropolitan church of Belgium. It is dedicated to St. Rombauld, who was assassinated by the Pagans, in 755, in the chapel of St. Stephen, which stood near the site of the present

edifice. The cathedral was commenced in the latter part of the twelfth century, but was not finished until the year 1513. The choir is of 1366; the great nave of 1487. The tower was begun 1452; and the round tower which surmounts the building, is almost entirely composed of buttresses, which give it, when seen from a distance, the appearance of a fragment of a colossal fluted column. It was built with the funds supplied by the offerings of the pilgrims, who came in crowds to Mechlin, to share the advantages of the jubilee and general indulgence proclaimed by Pope Nicholas V., on the occasion of the war in the East, which however terminated the very next year in the annihilation of the Eastern Empire, and the occupation of Constantinople by the Turks, under Mahomed. It was from this jubilee that the town acquired the name of "Malines l'heureuse," as it has since, from its great cleanliness, been named "Malines la propre," but it is now often called "la tranquille," as the grass grows in its streets.. This tower, 350 feet (98 mètres) high, and has a dial plate of 144 feet in circumference. The view from the summit over the surrounding country is extensive, comprising the towns of Antwerp, Brussels, and Louvain. It was originally intended to surmount the tower by a vane of copper gilt, which would have increased the height nearly one-third but the project has never been put into execution, and the tower remains unfinished. The alarm occasioned by the reflection of the moon on this tower, which gives it the appearance of being on fire, was the origin of the proverb of the wise men of Mechlin, who try to extinguish the moon; the bare mention of which, to an inhabitant of the town, would even now excite an irritation not easily to be appeased. The interior of the cathedral presents nothing worthy of notice except the altar-piece, which is by Van Dyck, its subject is the Crucifixion. It has also paintings of Crayer, Janssens, and others. The exterior grand-front is ornamented with several statues, amongst them are Faith, Hope, Charity, and the Apostles. Its carillons or bells, which are noted, were constructed by Van der Gheyn, an artist of the eighteenth century, author of "Morceaux Fugués."

In the church of Nôtre Dame, behind the grand altar, is the Miraculous Draught of Fishes, painted by Rubens, expressly for the Guild of Fishmongers,

and considered one of his finest productions. In the same church are also a few fine pictures by Van Dyck. The traveller must take care not to confound this church with that called Nôtre Dame d'Hanswyck, which is remarkable for its beautiful cupola, and also for its carved pulpit, representing the temptation and fall of Adam and Eve. This church owes its origin to a miraculous image of he Virgin, which floated in a boat against the stream, until it arrived at the spot where the church now stands, when it approached the bank and remained firm; of course a sacred edifice to enshrine the image was immediately built; and equally, of course, the image repaid the devotion of the inhabitants by performing numerous and stupendous miracles, which soon attracted pilgrims and offerings, sufficient to repay the expense to which they had put themselves. This purpose being answered, the image no longer thought it worth while to exert its miraculous powers to protect itself, and it was destroyed by sacrilegious hands, when the town was pillaged, as above mentioned. The church formerly belonging to the Jesuits, and still bearing their name, deserves attention for its handsome Gothic front, and also for a series of paintings, forming a history of St. Francis Xavier, the Indian Missionary. In the church of St. John are four fine paintings, by Rubens, representing the Adoration of the Magi, the Birth of Christ, the Descent from the Cross, and the Resurrection. This church has also some fine wood sculpture, by Verhaegen, and a good pulpit, with a remarkable group by the sculptor, Duquesnoy.

Near the Antwerp Gate is a small convent of Béguines, which deserves attention. In the chapel are some pictures worthy of notice.

Near the Town Hall (of the fifteenth century) is the statue of the Regent Margaret, placed here 1849. Mechlin also possesses a college, a public seminary, the catholic university, as well as some societies for the cultivation of literature and the fine arts. The principal articles manufactured here, in addition to the lace which has been before mentioned, are leather, jewellery, all kinds of woollen and cotton stuffs, hats, combs, pins, oil of colza, and flax. There are also tan yards, dyeinghouses, salt refineries, and factories for all kinds of work in copper and tin. John Bol, one of the earliest miniature painters, and Michael Coxcie, an historical painter and pupil of Raphael, and Frans Hals, were natives of this town. The boulevards and ramparts afford pleasant walks, and are the general rendezvous of the townspeople. There are two Fairs of fifteen days each, commencing the first Sunday after the 1st day of July, and the second on the 1st of October, for all kinds of merchandise; and on the Saint Saturday in October is a well-frequented horse and cattle fair.

On leaving this station for Brussels the rail crosses the Louvain Canal. On the east of the road between Malines and Vilvorde is seen the chateau of Rubens at Stein, of which he was proprietor.

Vilvorde (Station). A small, healthy town, of 5,200 inhabitants, situated between Malines and Brussels. It is one of the most ancient in Belgium, and is much visited by philanthropists desirous of

The church of the Béguinage has some good paintings by Von Loon, Crayer, Quellyn, Soyer- inspecting the great prison or Penitentiary, built

mans, &c., and a splendid ivory crucifix said to be the work of Duquesnoy.

The church of St. Catharine is chiefly remarkable on account of its paintings, some of which are good, including an Adoration, by Morille, held in high estimation by Rubens.

The streets of Mechlin are wide and handsome, particularly that called Den Bruhl, in which is the splendid hotel belonging to the Commander of Pitzembourg, of the Teutonic order. It was inhabited both by Louis XIV. and Louis XV. The magnificent garden s now open to the public.

in the suburbs of the town. The Church of Vilvorde contains some exquisite carvings in wood. In this town, Tindal, the first English translator of the Bible, suffered martyrdom in 1536, crying out, "Lord, open the King of England's eyes.' At present this little town has acquired considerable reputation, from its possessing an excellent boarding-school for the education of young ladies; this establishment is conducted by Mademoiselles Squilliers, and the concurrent testimony of innumerable Protestant families represent it as being one of the best and most irreproachable institutions on the continent.

The route on leaving the last station takes in the view of many beautiful country seats, spread along the banks of the canal leading to Brussels. To the right, as we approach Brussels, is seen the Palace of Laeken, belonging to the King of the Belgians, now the residence of the widow of the Emperor Maximilian of Mexico. This palace was originally built for the Austrian Governor of the Netherlands. It was afterwards inhabited by Napoleon, and is remarkable as being the place where he planned his Russian campaign. It is enclosed by magnificent gardens and a park, and is 3 miles from Brussels. The late queen, Louise Marie, is buried here (1850). A statue of Madame Malibran is erected in the cemetery at Laeken, where she is buried, her husband having brought her body from Manchester, at which place she died, to be interred here. The statue is by Geefs, and is placed in a kind of temple. A beautiful and lengthy avenue of trees (l'allée vert) extends from Laeken to Brussels. The railroad traverses the opposite side of the canal, and near the Botanical Gardens, opposite the Rue Neuve at the Port de Cologne, enters

BRUSSELS, see Route 6.

ROUTE

Lille to Brussels.

2.

Via Mouscron, Tournay, Ath, and Jurbise. Distance, 84 English miles. The direct rail to Tournay is via Blandain on the frontier.

Roubaix, Tourcoing, and Mouscron Stations, described in previous route, are first passed. At the latter place travellers for Tournay change carriages, and luggage is examined.

Leaving MouSCRON, we quit the line from that place to Lille, and find ourselves on the branch one leading to Tournay. To the left is Herseaux, at the extreme point of the frontier, rising to the south-east by the province of Hainault, or Hennegau in Flemish, into which the road enters, verging for some miles towards the French frontier. Leaving the village of Estampuis to the left, and that of Watreloos and its church to the right, both the latter of which are in France, the road passes the hamlets of Fournette, Jonquières, and Esetaimbourg, the capital of a commune, and arrives at Nechin (Station), a place of no importance. The next place is

Templeuve (Station). A town containing 3,000 inhabitants. As we approach Tournay, we see to the right the village of Froyennes, the Faubourg de Main, and the beautiful promenade of the Seven Sisters, all forming a splendid panorama. Advancing on, the railway crosses the Scheldt by a splendid viaduct of many arches. Look to the right; what an admirable entrance to the town! A beautiful coup d'œil is formed by the bridges, towers, houses, and rivers, all identified with some historical event. The terminus is approached, and we arrive at the station, on the Quay Escaut. Tournay (Station).

Hotels: De Belle Vue; De l'Imperatrice; Du Singe d'Or.

A Belgian city, in the province of Hainault. The town itself is indifferently built, and has a gloomy aspect; it contains a population of 31,923, who are engaged in the manufacture of cotton and woollen stuffs. The workmen labour at home, instead of in factories. Of the public buildings, that of the Cathedral is the most celebrated; it is one of the most ancient and curious in the country. The internal ornaments are numerous. The choir is of a remarkably bold and striking nature; the pulpit is a gem, by Gilis, and the shrine of St. Eleu Marcus a masterpiece of workmanship in gold. There is also a beautiful gallery, by Lecroux, of Tournay, and four genii, the gems of the place, by Duquesnoy. The pictures are, a Purgatory, by Rubens, and a Crucifixion, by Jordaens.

The churches of St. Quentin, St. Piat, and St. James are interesting specimens of the primitive Gothic style. The Church of St. Nicholas de Chateau is of remarkable architecture, and possesses some fine pictures.

Henry VIII. captured Tournay in 1518, and bestowed it upon Cardinal Wolsey, who yielded it up to Francis I., and persuaded his royal master to sell the town to the French King, influenced by the promised interest of that monarch to obtain his elevation to the papacy.

The Public Library contains 20,000 volumes, and several curious manuscripts. The cabinet of natural history, in the museum at the Hotel de Ville, is worthy of notice.

Post Office.-Rue Notre Dame.

Five miles south-east of Tournay, to the right of the post road to Ath, is the battle-field of Fontenoy, seen immediately after passing the village of Bourquembrays. In this spot was fought the battle between the English, Dutch, and Austrians, commanded by the Duke of Cumberland, and French under Marshal Saxe.

Quitting Tournay, the following stations are met with, none of which is of any importance:Havinnes, Bary-Maulde Lueze (where the lines from Renaix and Mons come in), and Ligne. After which we arrive at

Ath (Station)-Inn: Cygne. Population, 8,135. A fortified town on the Dendre, 21 miles from Tournay. A terrible fire in 1433, a hurricane in 1600, and an earthquake in 1691, and other disastrous events, dismantled Ath of all her monuments, &c. St. Julien's Tower and the Parish Church alone escaped the conflagration. Ath sustained many deadly sieges. The fortifications constructed in 1815 are strengthened with great care. At a short distance from Ath, on the direct line to Brussels, via Hal (see below), is

Enghien (Station). A town containing about 3,000 inhabitants. The beautiful park and gardens surrounding the chateau of the Duke D'Aremberg, destroyed during the French Revolution, deserve notice. At Meslin l'Evêque, near Ath, the cultivation of the mulberry and silkworm has been introduced with much success. The Belioel, 6 miles from Ath, not far from the road, is famous as the patrimonial estate of the Prince de Ligneillustrious in the triple capacity of diplomatist, soldier, and author.

Maffles, Attre, Brugelette, Lens Stations, are next met with, all near places of no importance. Jurbise (Station). A small commune, with a population of 700 souls. It is about 8 miles from Mons by railway. The country along from Jurbise to Braine-le-Comte is rather interesting. Here there is a correspondence with the railway from Mons.

[merged small][merged small][ocr errors]

The chief town of a canton of the province of Hainault, in the district of Mons, with a populatiou of 6,800 souls. Its origin is ancient. The

C

church of St. Vincent is believed to be the most ancient in Belgium; from its shape, and by the style of its architecture, it is certainly one of the most curious. The beautifully sculptured stalls are worthy of notice. The college of Soignies is one of the most renowned in Belgium; it is still well attended. The principal trade carried on is in the quarrying of the stone, known as that of Soignies.

Post Office, near the church.

Braine-le-Comte (Station). Population, 6,220. A small ancient town of Hainault, in the district of Mons. It is said that Brennus, the Gaul, 891 years before Christ, founded a fortress and tower upon the site of the present church. The parish church is deserving of notice. The stone tabernacle at the choir is a fine piece of sculpture, but much disfigured with gilding and painting. The front of the convent of the Dominicans is an elegant structure. The principal hotel is Du Cygne. The manufactures are chiefly cotton spinning and lace thread spinning. On the right the line turns off to Charleroi and Namur. Travellers, proceeding direct to Namur and Liége, change carriages at this station.

The surrounding district here is celebrated for the superiority of its flax, the best grown anywhere. It is employed in the manufacture of Brussels lace. To the north-west, a few miles distant, is STEENKERKE, the spot where the Duke of Luxembourg defeated William III., with a loss of 7,000 men, in 1692.

Quitting the last station, the railway pierces the tunnel of Braine-le-Comte, and enters a deep cutting, passing Heunnuyres, a commune of the province of Hainault; and La Genette, where Jean Jacques Rousseau died, in 1741, after which it arrives at

Tubise (Station). A commune in the district of Nivellos, in the province of Brabant, with a population of 2,500 souls.

Lembecq (Station). A town containing 2,800 inhabitants, with no objects of interest save its old chateau and its numerous distilleries. Nothing worth notice presents itself after leaving the Tubise station. Crossing the Senne and the canal Charleroi, we next arrive at

Hal (Station).

Hotels: Des Pays Bas; Duc de Brabant.

A pretty village of 7,815 inhabitants, built partly on the Senne, and on the canal Charleroi, having no objects of particular interest, save the church of St. Mary, celebrated as possessing a miracle-working image of the Virgin. It is of wood, two feet high, and has acquired immense wealth by pious offerings, including gold plate given by Charles V., Maximilian I., Pope Julius II., &c. A side chapel contains 33 cannon balls, aimed, it is said, at the church, and caught by the Virgin in her mantle, which she had spread over the town to protect it during a bombardment. The high altar deserves special notice, it being one of the most beautiful in Belgium, made of marble, and sculptured, it would seem, by Italian artists. Below is the tabernacle, and underneath St. Martin dividing his cloak. The Seven Sacraments are represented on the bas-reliefs, admirable works of art, at the lower rows, and the entire construction is surmounted by a pelican. The gorgeous font, of brass, cast at Tournay, by the artist Lefevre, in 1467, is worth seeing. It is placed in the octagon baptistry of the church, and is covered with a spire, adorned by statues, and groups representing the Baptism of Christ, St. Martin, &c.

At Hal, the direct line from Lille, viâ Enghien, falls in. Leaving it, we pass the village of Eysingham, and crossing the Senne, arrive at

Loth (Station), about 5 miles from Brussels. It has a very fine church, richly ornamented, and having over the high altar a painting (the Martyrdom of St. Peter) by De Crayer.

Quitting Loth, the railway runs parallel with the canal Charleroi, passes Ruysbroeck and Forest stations. After which, it leaves the suburb of St. Gillis, crossing the gate of Hal on the left, the boulevard, and arrives at the south station, entering

Brussels-(Route 7).

ROUTE 3.

London to Brussels, viâ Dover, Ostend,

Bruges, Ghent, and Malines.

London to Dover-(Route 1).

Mail steamers leave Dover for Ostend at 9-45 a.m. and 10-45 p.m. The distance from port to port is 63 English miles, and the voyage is made from 4

to 5 hours. Fifteen miles south, the light of Dunkirk is seen, before the Ostend one shews itself. Two jetties flank the Ostend harbour, which is dry at low water, and form very nice promenades.

The Passport and Custom House Offices are quite close to the harbour, and open daily at 5 a.m., in summer, so that tourists wishing to proceed on their route need not be delayed. A Commissionaire will be always found at hand to attend to one's passport and secure places, for whose services a couple of francs will be demanded.

Travellers going direct from Ostend to Cologne can avoid the necessity of having their baggage searched here by declaring it for transit, and delivering it over to the care of a railway official, who is to be found at the Custom House. arrival at Cologne it will be delivered up on the production of the ticket.

Ostend (Station).-Hotels:

On

Hotel Fontaine, highly recommended, very conveniently situated, near the sea and harbour. It has a splendid dining-room.

Bath Hotel: an old-established first-class hotel. Recommended.

The Ship Hotel, a comfortable house, situated on the Quai. Moderate charges.

English Private Family House, 13, Rue Louise, close to the sea-side. Moderate charges. W. C.

Wiltcher, proprietor.

Resident English Consul.

English Church Service.-In Rue Longue.
Exchange Office.-Suffell's.

Ship Brokers.-Messrs. R. St. Amour and Son.
Omnibuses attend the arrival of each train.

The Harbour of Ostend is formed by a natural inlet of the sea, which has forced a passage between two sand-hills. The south-western bank, or beach, is of a triangular shape, and possesses some degree of elevation above high-water mark, and the surrounding country, so that, at half tide, it is completely peninsulated; and on this bank the town is built.

Ostend is a strongly fortified town, containing 17,340 inhabitants, and is placed between the sea and the harbour, being surrounded by water on every side, and enclosed with ramparts. The land all round is low, and the waters have to be controlled by sluices. It sustained a memorable siege of 3 years' duration, between 1601 and 1604;

« ForrigeFortsæt »