been often said that a police regulation of stone, standing upon 13,659 piles restricts the use of wheels, from fear driven 70 ft. deep into the ground. lest the rattling of heavy carriages over The architect was Van Campen; the the stones should shake and injure the first stone was laid 1648, and the buildfoundation of the buildings: this, how- ing finished 1655. It was originally ever, is not true. Heavy burdens are occupied by the magistracy, for town almost entirely transported along the councils, judicial tribunals, and the like. canals, and from thence to the ware- During the reign of Louis Buonaparte houses on similar sledges. Omnibuses it became his palace, and the late King ply through the town and to the rail- resided in it whenever he visited way station. Amsterdam. The main entrance is behind. The treasures of the once celebrated bank of Amsterdam, which used to regulate the exchanges of Europe, were kept in the vaults below the building. It is chiefly remarkable for one grand Hall, occupying the centre of the building, lined with white Italian marble, 120 ft. long and 57 ft. wide, and nearly 100 ft. high. The sculptured bas-reliefs which adorn the building are by Arthur Quellin, and deserve notice as works of art, those especially which adorn the two pediments; many of those in the interior are appropriate and well executed: thus over the door of the room which was the secretary's is a dog watching his dead master, and a figure of Silence with her finger on her lips, as emblems of fidelity and secrecy. The Bankrupt Court contains a group representing Dædalus and Icarus-in allusion to rash speculations and their ruinous consequences. In the Audience Chamber is a large picture, by Wappers, of Van Speyk blowing up his ship. It is worth while to see the View from the tower on the summit of the building. This is the best place to obtain a tolerably correct idea of this wonderful city, with its broad canals, avenues of green trees running through the heart of the town, houses with forked chimneys and projecting gables, many of them bowing forward or leaning backwards, from subsidence in their foundations. These form the foreground of the picture. The horizon extends on the N. side over the Zuider Zee, over the IJ, to the numerous windmills and red roofs of Zaandam, the N. Holland canal and the towers of Alkmaar; S. over the expanse of the Haarlem Meer, about shortly to disappear, and to be ploughed by the share and no longer by the keel; S.E. appear The havens and canals are shallow, being about 8 ft. deep at ordinary water. They are, therefore, fit for the Rhine vessels and Dutch coasters, but do not admit vessels for foreign trade. These lie along the booms and in front of the town, and the goods are transferred by means of the numerous canals of the city. There is a good deal of mud deposited at the bottom of the canals, which when disturbed by the barges produces a most noisome effluvia in hot weather, when the water is said to "grow." Dredging-machines are constantly at work to clear out the mud, which is sent to distant parts as manure. Mills have also been employed to give an artificial motion to the waters, and prevent their becoming stagnant; but the same object is now attained by more simple means. To effect a circulation in the canals is most essential to the health of the inhabitants. The Amstel at its entrance into the city is 11 in. below the mean level of the German Ocean, the lowest tide is only 1 ft. lower than the Amstel. It is therefore evident that the canals can be emptied, and that partially, only at low water. The Damrak is the point of discharge. At high water the sluices which admit the Amstel into the town are closed for a short time, and the sea-water allowed then to circulate through the town, until it is again expelled by the river. The vast dams thrown up within a few years in front of the town, for a great distance along the side towards the IJ, resist the influx of the sea into the mouths of the canals, and are provided with flood-gates of the strongest construction, to withstand the pressure of high tides. The Palace (het Palais), formerly The Stadhuis, is a vast and imposing edifice towards it. the towers of Utrecht and Amersfort; the palace, is one of the finest churches and W. the spire of Haarlem, with the in Holland: it has a fine open screen of straight canal and railway pointing brass. It contains, among many public monuments, those of Admiral de Ruiter, the commander who sailed up the Medway and burnt the English fleet at Chatham, who at different times contended with the English admirals Blake, Monk, and Prince Rupert, and who commanded the Dutch at the battle of Solebay. He is styled, in his somewhat pompous epitaph, "immensi tremor Oceani." There are also monuments to Captain Bentinck, killed in the battle The present Stadhuis, or Town Hall, on the Achter Burgwal, (formerly the Admiralty,) contains good picturesportraits of burgomasters and citizens of Amsterdam, by Van der Helst, Frans Hals, Govert Flinck, &c.; also a capital Lingelbach, a view of the palace while building; and a view of it finished by Van der Ulft. The New Exchange, built 1845, stands in front of the palace: its construction of Doggerbank, 1781, and to the poet was a work of great difficulty on account of the looseness of the soil, a mere turbary or bog, which caused the foundations to give way when the building was hardly above ground.-past 3 o'clock is the daily hour of high change: those who enter after the time must pay a small fine. The Churches of Amsterdam, stripped of almost every decoration at the Reformation, are in themselves rather barren of interest, forming a complete contrast to the richly ornamented structures of Belgium. The Oude Kerk (Old Church), in the Warmoes Straat, has 3 fine windows of painted glass, executed between 1549 and 1648; the tombs of several Dutch admirals; a list of the persons killed in Amsterdam by the Anabaptists, 1535; and a fine set of chimes. The organ is esteemed by many not inferior, as to tone, to that of Haarlem. "It is as gorgeously framed as if it had been contrived for some Jesuits' church. The gallery in which it stands is richly inlaid with porphyry and white marble: its case is florid, with the most heavy and profuse carving and gilding. The tones are rich, firm, and brilliant. It has 68 stops, 3 rows of keys, and a full complement of pedals. In short, it is a first-rate instrument. Dr. Burney, in his Musical Tour,' mentions that this organ-in his day a celebrated instrument had been finished 12 years before his visit (or about 1760), by Batti, of Utrecht, in completion of an organ begun in 1736.”—H. F. C. The Nieuwe Kerk (so called, though built in 1408), on the Damrak, close to Vondel. The most recent monument is one to the memory of Van Speyk, who blew up himself and his ship, in the Scheldt, 1831, rather than yield to the Belgians. (Rte. 18, p. 118.) The splendidly carved pulpit, with its huge sounding-board, was executed by Albert Vincken Brinck, in 1649. The churches in Holland are, perhaps, more numerously and regularly attended than even in England. The sermons to be preached on Sunday are announced beforehand in placards, like play-bills with us. The congregation sit during the sermon with their hats on or off, indifferently, just as the members in our H. of Commons. In most of the churches service is performed 3 or 4 times. The minister wears the costume of the Puritans in Charles I.'s time-a short black cloak reaching a little below his knee, with a ruff round his neck. There is an English Episcopal Church here on the Groene Burgwal; service at 10A.M. A Scotch Presbyterian Church has long been established here. The Jews, who form one-tenth of the population of the town, and reside in a particular quarter, have 4 Synagogues: the most splendid is that of the Portuguese, in the Muiderstraat, which is worth visiting. The streets leading to it seem but a repetition of Monmouth Street, St. Giles's-the same dirt and filthy smells, the same old clothes, evidently the staple commodity, with odds and ends, heaped up, as it were, from all quarters of the world. Nevertheless the Jews of Amsterdam are, from their wealth, a very influential body. Spi- it an admirable picture. Portrait of nosa, the metaphysician, was a native Mary, daughter of Charles I., wife of of Amsterdam, and a Jew by birth (1632). The Museum or Picture Gallery placed in the Trippenhuis (a name derived from its former owner), in the Kloveniersburgwal-is open to the public Thurs. and Fri., from 10 to 3: on other days it is usual to give a guilder to the keeper for admission. Many of the pictures are attached to shutters, which admit of being drawn forward upon hinges in order that they may be seen under the most favourable lights. It is completely a National Gallery, being composed almost entirely of works of the Dutch school, of which it contains many chefs-d'œuvre. The finest picture in the collection is that painted by Van der Helst, "the miracle of the Dutch school," representing the City Guard of Amsterdam met to celebrate the Treaty of Münster, 1648; an event which, as it first confirmed the independence of the Dutch nation, was justly considered a subject worthy the pencil of the artist. The figures, 25 in number, are portraits; the names are inscribed above, but there are no persons in any way distinguished among them. One of them represents the lieutenant of the company, and his dress is the uniform of the Dutch schutterij (militia) of that period. "This is, perhaps, the first picture of portraits in the world, comprehending more of those qualities which make a perfect portrait than any other I have ever seen. They are correctly drawn, both head and figure, and well coloured, and have a great variety of action, characters, and countenances; and those so lively and truly expressing what they are about, that the spectator has nothing to wish for. Of this picture I had heard great commendations; but it as far exceeded my expectation as that of Rembrand, the Night Watch, fell below it," R. Portraits of 3 members of the Archers' Guild, seated at a table, holding the prizes for the best shots, a sceptre, a goblet, and a chain; a fourth man, said to be the painter, a woman, and a dog. In the background 3 young marksmen. Sir Joshua calls William II., P. of Orange, and mother of William III. of England. Van der Helst is a scarce master, and his works are nowhere to be found in equal perfection with those at Amsterdam. Backhuysen.-The Pensionary John de Witt embarking on board of the Fleet in 1665. A view of Amsterdam. Berghem. Several fine Landscapes; one particularly, called an Italian Landscape. Ferdinand Bol.-Portrait of Admiral de Ruiter. Gaspar Crayer.-The Adoration of the Shepherds. A Descent from the Cross. Cuyp and Both.-Some admirable landscapes. Gerard Douw.-The Evening School, a painting in which the effect of candlelight is wonderfully portrayed: no less than 5 different lights are introduced into the picture, and variously thrown upon the 12 figures which compose it. A Hermit in a Cave before a Crucifix, surprisingly finished. Hondekoeter. Several pictures of fowls, game, rare birds, &c., unequalled in their class probably in the world. One of the most remarkable is that known as "the Floating Feather," in which a Pelican is introduced with Ducks swimming. Van Huysum. Fruit and Flower pieces. Carl du Jardin.- Portraits of the 5 Governors of the Spinhouse at Amsterdam. They are all dressed in black; and, being upon a light background, have a wonderful relief. The heads are executed with a most careful and masterly touch, and the repose and harmony of colouring spread over the whole picture are admirable." R. The portraits of this artist are rare, as he is generally looked upon as a painter of landscapes, sheep, and small figures. There are 3 other good pictures by him, and no other collection probably possesses works of his showing equal excellence. Lievens.-Portrait of Vondel, the Poet. Miereveld.-Portraits of William I. and Maurice, Princes of Orange. Ostade, A.-The Painter in his Study. Ostade, J.-A laughing Peasant with ́a jug in his hand. Paul Potter.-A Landscape with Cattle, and a Woman suckling a Child. Orpheus charming the Beasts. A Bear Hunt, one of the few paintings by this master in which the figures are as large as life. A part of the original painting has peeled off the canvas. Rembrand. are left without anything, or receive a whipping. The story is admirably told in this picture, which is a chef-d'œuvre of the master. Snyders.- Dead Wildfowl. Teniers.-Temptation of St. Anthony. A Peasant drinking and smoking. Terburg.-A Lady in White Satin talking with a lady and gentleman. Her back only is seen, but the whole attitude shows that she is struggling with her feelings. (See Kugler, § LV. 5.) The Ministers at the Congress of Münster. artist." R. Paintings of the Sea Fight between the Dutch and English, which lasted 4 days, and in which the Dutch were victorious: one represents the battle between De Ruiter and General Monk, in which 4 English line-ofbattle ships were taken. Calms at Sea, The picture called the Night Watch probably represents a company_of_archers, with their leader, Captain Kok, going out to shoot at the butts. It appears to have been much damaged, "but what remains seems to be painted in a poor manner."-"So far am I from thinking it deserves its great A. Van der Venne.-Portrait of William reputation that it was with difficulty II., taken after his death. W. Vandecould persuade myself that it was painted velde.-View of Amsterdam, from the by Rembrand: it seemed to me to have Schreijershoek Tower; dated 1686. more of the yellow manner of Boll." One of the most capital works of this The name of Rembrand, however, is certainly upon it, with the date, 1642." R.-This unfavourable opinion of Sir Joshua is not confirmed by judges of art in the present day, who consider that he does injustice to one of the finest and most wonderful productions of the great painter. Another first-rate paint-painted with the most exquisite clearing is the portraits of 5 Masters of the Drapers' Company and their servant. They are seated round a table, apparently conversing on matters of business. The heads are finely painted, particularly the one nearest to the right. There are parts of this painting which, in force of execution, the painter probably never surpassed. Ruisdael.-A magnificent waterfall. The castle of Bentheim. The same subject is to be found at Dresden. ness, and with that wonderful effect of distance over the surface of the water which is the peculiar excellence of Vandevelde. Vandyk.-Portraits of the Children of Charles I.: one of them, the Princess Mary, became the wife of William II., Prince of Orange. Francis Van der Borght, a masterly portrait. Weenix.-Dead Game. Wouvermans. -A Stag Hunt, in this artist's best manner. The Chasse au Vol, Hawking Party. A picture representing officers plundered and bound by peasants. The horse is exquisitely painted. All three are very fine: there are others of great excellence, as, a Landscape, with a white Horse. Schalken.-William III., a portrait by candlelight. H. Walpole says that the artist made the King hold the candle until the tallow ran down and burnt his hand. Two Boys; one eating soup, the other an egg, with his face slobbered over by the yolk; called "Every one to his fancy;" which motto is written on the picture. Jan Steen is, perhaps, nowhere seen to greater advantage. A Baker at a Window, and a Boy blowing a Horn to let the neighbours know that the rolls are ready. A Village Quack. The Fête of St. Nicholas, an occasion In the Spin-house, or prison for female when the Dutch every year make pre-offenders, in the Nieuwe Prinsen Gracht, sents of bonbons to their children who are several pictures and portraits_of behave well, while the naughty ones directors of the establishment, by Ru The Museum also contains one of the most remarkable collections of prints in Europe, particularly rich in the Dutch and Flemish masters, formed by Mr. Van Leyden, and purchased by Louis Buonaparte, K. of Holland. It occupies 200 portfolios. bens and Vandyk, exceedingly fine, and well worth notice. foundlings, &c., some of them attached to the churches of peculiar religions, others open to all sects without distinction. At one time more than 20,000 poor people received their daily bread and board from charity. Some of the almshouses, such, for instance, as the hospital for Protestant old men and women, on the Amstel, look more like princes' palaces than lodgings for poor people. The Burgher Orphan Asylum receives 700 or 800 children, boys and girls, until they are 20 years of age; There are several first-rate Private Collections of pictures in Amsterdam: that belonging to M. Six (Heerengracht, bij de Vijzelstraat, No. 4005) contains Rembrand's portrait of the Burgomaster Six, painted with great power and effect; and of Madame Six, a wonderful picture.-G. Douw, A Girl with a Birdcage, exquisitely finished.-Metzu, A Fishwife. Cuyp, Sunny Landscape, ships and water; and a moonlight view.-V. der Neer, Moonlight.-Hob- and before they are sent out into the bema, Landscape. - Ruisdael, ditto.Wynants, ditto.-Paul Potter, Cattle; good.—Jan Steen, A Jewish Marriage. Weenix, Dead Game. These were painted for the places on the walls which they occupy, and hang in their original black frames. The cabinet of M. van der Hoop (Keizersgracht, bij het Molenpad, No. 5934) is also first-rate; it is most tastefully arranged in his elegant mansion. He has an excellent Landscape by H. Vandevelde, with figures of the painter and his family; and one of the finest Ostades known, from the cabinet of the Duchesse de Berry. The gallery of Mr. van Loon contains first-rate pictures of the Dutch school; and that of Mr. van Brienen many fine specimens of it. These two galleries may, perhaps, be seen by applying, by letter, to the owners, or, in their absence, through Mr. J. de Vries, a broker in works of art. Amsterdam is remarkable for the number and extensive bounty of the Charitable Institutions which it supports, for the most part, by voluntary contributions of its benevolent citizens. It is recorded that, when some one in conversation with Charles II. prognosticated speedy ruin to the city from the meditated attack of Louis XIV.'s armies, Charles, who was well acquainted with the country from a long residence in it, replied, "I am of opinion that Providence will preserve Amsterdam, if it were only for the great charity they have for their poor." This city alone, it is said, numbers no fewer than 23 institutions of benevolence, including hospitals for the reception of the aged and infirm, the insane, orphans and widows, world they are instructed in some trade or profession. They are well taken care of, and are very healthy. The orphan children of the different asylums are generally distinguished by a particular dress: those of the Protestant Burgher House (in which Van Speyk was brought up) wear black and red jackets; the girls of the Roman Catholic Orphan House wear black, with a white band round the head: the orphans educated in the Almosoniers' Orphan House are dressed in black, and wear round the left arm the colours of the town—a black, red, and white band, with a number. The intention of these costumes is to prevent their entrance into playhouses, gin-shops, or other improper places; a severe penalty being inflicted on persons who should admit children thus attired. There is also a class of Provident Institutions here and in other Dutch towns, called Proveniers Huisen (providers' houses), for the reception and comfortable maintenance of old men and women, who pay a comparatively small sum, proportioned to their age (e. g. from 50 to 55 years, 2000 guilders; 55 to 60, 1500; 70 years and upwards, 500 guilders), for admittance, and are supported in respectability to the end of their days. They form a very suitable retreat for domestic servants, who by timely savings may obtain an entrance; indeed, masters and mistresses sometimes reward old and faithful domestics by paying for their admission. The poor throughout Holland are generally supported by voluntary contributions. In all the churches collections are made every Sunday by the |