houses, I succeeded in getting into a wretched cottage, where were several poor women, belonging to the guards, in great distress, having just heard that their brigade, which they had left at Villa Bol, had been attacked by the enemy, and had suffered great loss. I was happy in assur and that the cavalry, ing them that the rumour was false, not the guards, had been engaged. In this hovel the fire was placed in the centre of the room, and, as there was no chimney, the smoke escaped as it could through the thatched roof. The fuel being composed of wet roots of heath, emitted more smoke than either heat or light, and offended our lungs and eyes greatly. By means of entreaties and money, I succeeded in procuring a lamp, and a little oil, from the female of the hovel. She produced it with great unwillingness, saying it could not be bought without sending to Astorga. During the long months of winter, the inhabitants here live with no other light than that of their fire. As to windows in their hovels, they have none. By the light of the lamp, I had an opportunity of contemplating the extraordinary dress and dark countenance of the Mauregato family. It consisted of a tall, ill-looking woman, and three wretched-looking children, two of whom seemed expiring under hectic fever. They were all filthy to a degree; their hair matted and uncombed; their faces, hands, and linen, appeared never to have been washed. Around the woman's neck was a triple row of large beads, and medallions of saints, and from her ears depended two immense hoop rings. The poor creatures did nothing but shiver and sigh over the embers; every thing around bore the aspect of misery itself. Never was a finer opportunity for a philosopher to contrast the savage with the civilized state. Could Rousseau have risen from the grave, he must have recanted his sophistry, and acknowledged his errors! The poor Englishwomen and their children appeared like a race of celestial Houris, compared with the Mauregato females. After passing an indifferent night, on a wooden machine, formed something like a garden-chair, I quitted Manzanal, and proceeded over the mountains towards Bembibre. The road, which was extremely steep, was for many leagues knee-deep in snow; and it was with the greatest difficulty I was able to get through it, the horse I rode having been knocked up. After ascending for several miles, and passing the village of Sevadon, which gives its name to this range of mountains, we reached the sum-mit, covered with thick clouds and drifting snow, through which we waded for an hour. The road now winds down by, the edges of precipices, and the most stupendous alpine crags, amid fastnesses much more wild and strong than any I have hitherto seen, even in the mountains of Silesia, or the Alps of Moldavia and Hungary.. I cannot conceive it would be possible for any invading army to penetrate into Gallicia, if these passes were defended by a body of brave and determined men. You will yourself judge, by the inclosed sketch, which I drew on the road between Sevadon and Molina Seca. At the extremity of the pass of Fuen Sevadon, I passed through Molina Seca, and shortly after through the town of Ponferrada, or the impregnable bridge, which is placed on the confluence of two torrents, and commands the entrance to the mountains. Here are the ruins of an old castle, which appears to have been formerly exceedingly strong. Quitting Ponferrada, I soon had a view over the valley of El Bierzo, a fertile tract, shut in on each side by stupendous mountains, and finely watered by a branch of the Minho. In the midst of this vale lies the town of Bembibre, where I had intended to halt; but, to my great disappointment, I found every house occupied by part of General Fraser's division, so that I was obliged to come on to Cubillos. Having arranged the sick in their quarters for the night, I got a billet on an old farmer here, who is tolerably civil. Here are also a great number of sick belonging to Romana's army. To-morrow I proceed to Villa Franca. Adieu. |