Segnius irritant animos demissa per aurem
Quam quæ sunt oculis subjecta fidelibus.

Martyrdoms and massacres are assuredly the worst possible subjects for the pencil; but the bare-footed Carmelites have, no doubt, found their account in exhibiting these to the gaping ignorant vulgar.

I accompanied a friend the other day, to visit a convent of nuns in this city. Their patroness is, I believe, St. Ursula, or St. Agatha, I am not certain which; but as it is of no material consequence, you will forgive my want of memory. Never having seen any of St. Ursula's nunneries before, I had been prepared for beholding some of those fine expressive countenances, such as Guercino, Guido, and other Italian painters, have often depicted; but, like many other of those impressions which we imbibe from painting and poetry, my vision proved delusive and incorrect. Con-ceive then my disappointment, when, on entering the con- vent, I beheld ten or twelve decrepid old women, wrapt up in woollen dresses, with as little of any thing like feeling or sentiment in the lines of their wrinkled countenances as in any of those creatures whom Denner, Rembrandt, or Gerard Dow have so often painted, and which, in defiance of all just taste, are bought up at such enormous prices in our London auctions. But to return to St. Ursula: Thrice a week these old ladies, at three o'clock,,

throw open the door of their parlour, to receive the afternoon visits of their friends, and hear from them all the scandal and little chit-chat of Salamanca.

The old ladies asked my friend a thousand questions respecting the progress of the war. The arrival of a sisterhood from the city of Toro, only a few miles distant, who had fled at the approach of the French, had given them considerable alarm, which we endeavoured to allay. They told us that, after taking the veil, no one of their order ever stirred beyond the fatal threshold, and that no man, excepting their ghostly confessor, was permitted to approach the hallowed recesses of their convent. After some further conversation we left them, having first visited their chapel, which, though small, is very handsome, and divided in the centre by a large grating.

This is the only convent which I have seen in the Peninsula; but if I may credit some officers, who have visited those of Portugal, the nuns there are less ceremonious in receiving the visits of strangers.

At Guarda, an officer of my acquaintance was accidentally walking among the ruins of a lofty tower which overhangs the town, when he remarked the summit of a singular looking cupola. While he was regarding it, and

wondering in his own mind for what purpose it was intended, whether as an observatory or the gallery of a church, a young woman, extremely handsome, habited as a nun, appeared at a grated window.

Having a little knowledge of Portuguese, my friend accosted her. A few compliments passed on the beauty of her complexion, and the sparkling brilliancy of her eyes; and at length he expressed his regret that a being so gifted and formed to adorn and delight society, should be thus immured. She smiled, and told him that it was not quite as he imagined, and if he was desirous of improving an acquaintance, thus fortuitously commenced, she would admit him that night between the hours of twelve and one. He was punctual to the appointment. After waiting some time, a small wicket near the door was opened, and the nun requested he would return again the next night at the same hour, as she had not that evening been able to secure the keys. The following night, at the hour appointed, he returned, and was admitted by the lovely vestal within. the holy portals. Early the next morning he left her, regretting that so charming, so amusing a female, should. be enclosed within the precincts of a convent.

LETTER XXXIX.

COLONEL GRAHAM ARRIVES FROM GENERAL CASTANOS'S HEAD-QUARTERS. CONFIRMS THE INTELLIGENCE OF THE BATTLE OF TUDELA. PROBABLE PROGRESS OF BONAPARTE.-AR Y OF RESERVE UNDER ST. JUAN POSTED AT SOMOSIERRA.-PANIC AND DISTRUST EVINCED BY THE INHABITANTS OF MADRID.-DON THOMAS MORLA ENDEAVOURS TO ALLAY THE FERMENT.-DISAGREEABLE SITUATION OF A BRITISH OFFICER.-SOBRIETY AND GOOD CONDUCT OF THE GARRI SON, PAMPHLET OF Don Pedro CEVALLOS,

Salamanca, 2d December, 1808.

WE still are much in the same state as when I last wrote. The safety of General Hope's division remains an object of much anxiety, as we only wait for his joining us to retire upon Portugal.

I have heard that a British field-officer, Colonel Graham, of the ninetieth, arrived two days ago from the headquarters of General Castanos. He is said to have been present at the action of Tudela, which, according to every

account, was a most decisive defeat for the poor Spaniards, who scampered off in all directions.

Of the operations of the French army subsequent to that victory, we are still completely ignorant; but it is more than probable that Bonaparte, acting on his usual system, will not lose a moment in following up the advantage he has gained. We are, therefore, in hourly expectation of hearing that he has reached Madrid. There is, indeed, no force to oppose him effectually in his approach, except a small army of reserve, formed of the wreck of Cuesta's troops, of which a General St. Juan has the chief command. It is posted in a strong pass, El Puerto de Somosierra, amid the Guadarama mountains ;* and if some Madrid papers, which I have seen, could be relied on, St. Juan will oppose a considerable resistance to the progress of the French.

From these papers, however, it appears, that a great degree of panic, attended with a demonstration of popular

* El Puerto de Somosierra, or the pass of the mountain top. This pass divides Old and New Castile. On the other side, close to the summit, is a miserable village, called also Somosierra. Here, during nine months in the year, a Siberian winter prevails. The road that leads to Somosierra is one of the most magnificent in all Spain. It was begun by Ferdinand the Sixth, and finished under Charles the hird.-See Link's Travelsin Spain.

HH