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ed from their day's fishing, and were preparing to pass the night there. We were guided to the spot where they were by a large column of smoke, which mounted into the air. On approaching them, we found that they had besmeared their faces with tar, and covered their heads and shoulders with a a cloth to protect themselves from the musquitoes. One of them was smoking tobacco, and the other was securing the fish they had taken from the depredations of the insects. Their meagre and squalid looks discovered evident signs of wretchedness. They were covered from head to foot by swarms of musquitoes, from whose stings their clothing scarcely shielded them. They were melting with heat, yet they durst not throw off their covering, much less remove from before the fire. Our arrival added millions of these flies to the myriads already there, as their numbers were continually increasing in our passage thither. It was impossible to stand a moment still ; every instant we were forced to thrust our heads into the midst of the smoke, or to leap over the Hame to rid ourselves of our cruel persecutors.
We drew our boat ashore, and walked about a mile into the country to visit the families of these two Lapland fishers, who had fixed their constant babitation there. We found fires every where kept up: the pigs had their fire, the cows bad theirs; there was one in the inside of the house, and another without, close to the door. The Lapland houses are not so large as those of the Finlanders. The door-way of the one we saw here was only four feet high, so that we found it necessary to stoop as we entered. We had left our tent behind us, supposing we should find accommodation to pass the night with the Laplanders, and that it would at least be equally good as that we had met with amongst the Finlanders; but we found ourselves disappointed: however, we were forced to put up with what convenience the people could offer us; and therefore, when it was time to retire to rest, we were accommodated with rein-deer skins, laid over small birchen twigs and leaves, which were spread on the ground, in a small apartment filled with smoke. We groped our way into our bed-chamber, because the smoke hindered us from seeing any
light. Some time after we had laid ourselves down to sleep, I heard a breathing, which seemed to proceed from a corner of the room, and which we were unable to account for, as we supposed ourselves the only living creatures in this place. I imagined it was a dog, or some other animal, which had taken his night's lodging there. Presently I heard a loud sigh, which seemed rather to be uttered by a human being than the animal I judged to be our fellow lodger. I raised my head up gently to try if I could discover any thing. Some cracks in the side of the walls, and a few openings in the roof, afforded a faint light, and in order to ascertain the cause of our alarm, I crept forward on my hands and knees. As the distance was but short, I soon reached the spot from whence the sounds came, and found two children naked, and lying upon deer-skins. The children were suddenly awaked, and seeing me approach them in the posture described, fancied themselves in danger of an attack from some wild beast, and ran out of the room, crying to their mother for help.'
In order to arrive at Kautokeino, a dangerous journey, our travellers engaged a party of Laplanders as guides, who are described as being disagreeable and filthy in the extreme. In eating they held the fish in their hands, and the oil that distilled from it ran down their arms, and into the sleeves of their coats which might be scented at some distance. With these men they marched in single files, and being behind, enjoyed the fragrance of their bodies. These poor wretches were continually begging for brandy, and nothing could overcome their phlegm and laziness. Eating, sleeping, and smoking, constituted their only enjoyments; they appeared perfectly ignorant of any sentiment of religion, or of the use of money, and artificial music is wholly banished far from these forlorn and desolate regions. In the large district where our author had now penetrated, two hundred miles long and ninety-six broad, there are,' he observes, but two places occupied by settled Laplanders, which amount together to no more than twelve families. The rest are all of the shepherd, or vagrant kind, who cannot be accurately numbered, because they are constantly in motion, and not attached to any parti