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Lewis" Mountains, and is at times called by the one and at times by the other name in Dutch works.

The highest elevation as yet measured by the Dutch is 20,000 feet, at about 120 miles from the coast. In the south-east peninsula, this range assumes the name of "Owen Stanley," and its greatest altitude is 13,400 feet.

By following the tread of the "Snewe Mountains" through the unexplored centre of New Guinea, we see that they must unite with the Owen Stanley Range, and form the main or backbone range of the island, from which many spurs strike off in a north-easterly direction towards the sea, dividing the northern half of the island into several basins, within which large rivers wend their way to the ocean.

At a distance of about sixty miles from the head of the Gulf of Papua, a spur detaches itself from the southern slopes of the Owen Stanley Range. Trending to the westward this spur follows the lay of the south coast of the island. its base, low mud flats, covered with mangrove trees, forming the impenetrable mangrove swamp so common in these latitudes, run out into the sea for some fifty or sixty miles.

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These swamps are cut up into innumerable islands by a ramification of watercourses, which carry off the drainage of the high land in the background. Here, too, the wellknown "Fly River" runs into the sea, after wending its way through more than one hundred miles of this muddy region. The number of mouths appertaining to the Fly River is uncertain. The Baxter River, lately visited by Mr. M'Farlane, appears, from its position, to be one of them, and many others may yet be found.

After passing the 142nd meridian of east longitude, the Coast Range we have just been follow

ing turns to the NNW., and trending along the west coast of the island, but at a great distance from it at first, draws nearer to the sea as it approaches the backbone range of the island, which it rejoins at the 137th meridian of east longitude.

This physical formation leaves us an inland basin to deal with, formed by the Coast Range we have just been following, and the main range in the centre of the island. This basin will receive the drainage of both these ranges. It consequently must be very damp, and it is more than probable that it is here that the Fly, and all the rivers on the west coast, take their rise, and thence flow to the sea through the breaks which exist in the Coast Range. We say exist, because we have observed that these breaks actually do occur. We also noticed, on one remarkably clear day, prior to the north-west monsoon coming on, that an inner range rises above, and beyond, and apparently follows the trend of the Coast Range. We would place this inner range at about 100 miles from the coast; the outer range at from forty to sixty, according to the longitude; and the greatest distance of the main range, in the centre of the island, must be about 250 miles from the seaboard. This would give an inland basin of about 14,000 square geographical miles, which would receive the drainage from about 600 miles of snow-clad mountain range, and from over 800 miles of coast range, whose lowest altitude cannot be computed at less than 2,000 feet.

Against these mountains, and on their southern slopes, the southeast trade-wind blows uninterruptedly for six months; but during the remainder of the year, it is displaced from time to time by the north-west monsoon. The southeast trade is a warm, moist wind, carrying with it all the moisture it

has sucked up in the form of vapour, while passing over the South Pacific Ocean. This wind strikes against the southern slopes of the snowclad backbone range of the island, and, from the fact that the snow remains on its elevated summits, it is evident that the warm moist trade-wind cannot, and does not, pass over them; but that, on the contrary, as we have elsewhere demonstrated, it precipitates its moisture, rises, and returns south, as an upper current, to carry warmth to New Zealand, thus rendering its climate one of the finest of the globe.

But, just in the same proportion that New Zealand is benefited by the existence of the high land in New Guinea, so is the southern coast of that island rendered unhealthy. The mountains arrest the tradewinds: hence, the climate is sultry and oppressive, while, at the same time, it is extremely damp. The vegetation is also rank, and fœtid odours fill the air. Such regions should be avoided by Europeans.

North of the backbone range all is changed as if by enchantment. Instead of mangrove swamps, we have bold headlands, against which an angry surf never ceases to rage and roar. The south-east trades are replaced by an exhilarating westerly breeze, never too warm, sometimes very cold, for it is drawn down the mountain sides from above the snow line, out of the cold Arctic current, to replace the moist wind arrested on the opposite side. The climate is here salubrious, the air being as pure as in Peru; but while it never rains over the latter country, it does do so during the season of the north-west monsoon over north-east New Guinea, and it is to this coast that Europeans should turn their attention; for here the rivers, running into the ocean from between high cliffs, form natural highways into the interior, of a most healthy

character, there being no mangrove swamps along their banks to infect the air with the stench of decomposing vegetable and animal matter, arrested by the network formation of the roots of these trees.

The natives of New Guinea, although belonging to the Negroid race, differ in as great a degree from the Negro as does the physical formation of New Guinea from that of Africa. They may be divided into four classes, namely, the Papuan, or Frizzly Head proper, inhabiting the low lands of the south and west coasts; the White Papuans, visited by the Basilisk; the Alfoeren or Hoorafora, inhabiting the mountains of the interior; and lastly, the Papuan-Malays, inhabiting the north coast, professing Mahommedanism, and subject to the authority of the Sultan of Tidore.

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All these peoples are continually at war the one with the other. They are subdivided into tribes, and these again have constant dis putes and quarrels to settle among themselves. Consequently, each tribe lives an isolated existence. Its warriors are divided into sections, and each party has to take its turn at scouting or outpost duty, in order to guard their village against surprise. At times their feuds lead to most disastrous consequences, and whole tribes are exterminated in a single combat, the conquerors razing the village of their vanquished foe with the ground, cutting down their cocoanut trees, and leading their women into captivity. They appear to eat the enemies slain in battle, and after each fight the victors hold high revel over the remains of their foes, whose skulls, after having been well picked and cleaned, are carefully preserved as trophies, the lower jaw-bones being used as ornaments, in the shape of bracelets.

Although it may appear para doxical at first sight to say so,

nevertheless this state of things is most favourable to future European colonization, provided that the task of occupying the island is carried out in a systematic and orderly manner, and that the exploring and colonizing expeditions who may undertake the duty are well organized, well officered, and governed by comprehensive rules and regulations.

To a well-organized expedition of say fifty or sixty men, effecting a landing at any point on the northeast coast would be easy, and unaccompanied by bloodshed, for no single tribe would dare oppose such a force. They would, on the contrary, retire before it, hanging about its outskirts it is true, but never venturing within even musket range for many days, until accustomed to the sight and actions of the invaders. Then, one by one, the natives would come into the European camp with presents, and, when satisfied that no harm was meant them, would soon become friendly. This state of feeling should be encouraged; and in the event of any neighbouring tribe attacking or molesting the friendly natives, these should be assisted by the Europeans to beat back their enemies, and once the colonists show their real bonâ fides by such an act they need never fear being treacherously attacked; for their native allies will scout for them, fight for them, and do everything in their power to show their gratitude. The great difficulty will be for the European to make his native ally comprehend that no aggressive action on his part will be tolerated, that is, to make him understand that he is not to retaliate on his enemies. This will be all the more difficult that the Papuan law is the old Mosaic law of "an eye for an eye, and a tooth for a tooth," which it will be necessary to supersede by inculcating into the Papuan mind the

serener virtues taught by the observance of the Christian faith; and the best means that can be adopted to attain this desirable end is, not to meddle with the adults any more than is absolutely necessary, but to secure, as much as possible, the regular attendance of children of both sexes at schools provided for their use.

When the Dutch first visited these parts, they found the natives inclined to be most friendly, and were received with open arms. The following simple narrative of Lieutenant Bruijn Kops is most strikingly illustrative of the then existing state of feeling :

"One evening when we went on shore all the children of the village were collected together, and beads were thrown among them. Not only the children, but women, men, and even some of the chiefs, scrambled for the beads, and ran from every quarter to obtain a share. All were on their knees in the sand, and showed how much they prized these presents by the zeal and attention with which they sought for them, and by their merry laughter when they were fortunate. Although these beads were of great value in their estimation, the scrambling was carried on without the personal contests which in civilized Europe would have been the result of an unequal distribution of presents. Walking along the beach after this distribution, I entered into conversation with a native who had learned a little Malay, and who invited me into his house, where I was led into the room which serves as a dwelling-place for the family. I thought all the women would take to flight, and was not a little surprised that they sat down close to me, and observed me very attentively, but without troublesome intrusion. Thus I sat in the midst of six women, three of whom were young, and whom on account of their beautiful eyes, clear, white, and regular teeth, happy, laughing faces, round shoulders and arms, fine hands, beautiful bosoms, and well-formed limbs, deserved the name of beautiful, not

only in the eyes of Papuans, but also in those of Europeans. The frankness with which I was received struck me; it was entirely unexpected. They brought me a dish of papeda (sagoflour steeped in water), some roast fish, yams, and fruit, requesting me to partake of it, which I did to please them. Seeing a ring on my finger, one of the girls tried to draw it off to examine it; but not succeeding I drew it off myself, and handed it to her. After examination, it was returned to me with care. I mention all this because the familiarity with which I was treated astonished me, and gave a favourable opinion of these people.

The products of the island are both numerous and valuable. Gold, tin, copper, iron, and sulphur are among its minerals. Seed and shell pearl and tortoiseshell are to be found along its coast, together with the sea-slug or bêche-de-mer and the edible birds'-nests so highly prized in the Japanese and Chinese markets. In its forests is found the Tectona grandis, or Indian teak, a wood most valuable in shipbuilding, while sandal-wood and ebony carved ornaments have been purchased from time to time from the natives by Sydney traders. The cotton-tree grows wild at many spots along the coast, wild nutmegs and cinnamon have been procured, and the breadfruit-tree, the sagopalm, and the cocoanut-tree at this present time supply the Papuans with their chief and most luxuriant food. It is difficult to say what might not be grown in New Guinea under proper cultivation, but, at present, the natives appear to content themselves with cultivating only the sugar-cane, the yam, the taro, and the sweet potato, together with a few tomatoes, gourds, or melons, and beans with very long pods; all of which they enclose within stout bamboo fences. These fences are evidently erected to keep wild animals from destroying the crops within the clearing; but what

are the animals these crops are thus protected against?

Captain Moresby only saw the wallaby in a wild state, and pigs and dogs in a tame state. He noticed. however, the spoor of some large animal, which he supposes to be a rhinoceros. The Bâsle missionaries report wild hogs and leopards on the north coast. The Dutch mentio buffalo bones having been brought to them at Triton Bay. Mr. M'Farlane reports having seen the spoor of the buffalo in the mud, along the river side, when exploring the Baxter. His party also saw, without the aid of magnifying glasses, a bird, said to be capable of carrying away a half-ton dugong in its claws! The dugong is somewhat like a whale, and this fabulous bird must, in size, be very much like a whale also. A Captain Lawson reports having shot a tiger or leopard, which he says the natives call a moola. He also shot buffalo and deer, monkeys which chased him, boa-constrictors of fabulous dimensions, spiders and snakes of like proportions, and enormous scorpii ad lib! Truly New Guinea is a wonderful land if all these accounts are true.

We are inclined to believe, however, that in New Guinea will be found the connecting link between the Australasian and Asiatic flora and fauna, the one being separated from the other by the dividing range, which in reality divides New Guinea into halves, just in the same manner that a herring is divided by its backbone; and as in that, fish, so in New Guinea, will "the back" be the most profitable, unless, indeed, its abdomen be found to contain a

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golden roe among its alluvial deposits.

The island of New Guinea in the hands of a foreign power would be a standing menace to our Australasian colonies. From its numerous harbours cruisers could at any mo

ment make a dash on our colonies, and lay them under heavy contribution should war break out in the future between England and that European nation holding New Guinea. These cruisers would also paralyze the Australian trade with China,and would necessitate a strong English naval force being sent to the New Guinea coast to drive them into, and blockade them in, their harbours. This naval force it might not at any moment be convenient to detach from our own waters, where every available vessel might perchance be wanted to defend our home ports. It is, therefore, a political necessity for this country to occupy New Guinea, and the only question to be solved is, how can she do so the most effectually, and yet withal the most economically?

New Guinea is a large island. Its area contains some 200,000 square geographical miles, of which England claims one-half, and Holland the other. But New Guinea is essentially "No Man's Land." It is invitingly near to the Suez Canal, and by means of this highway is brought into direct communication with the shores of the Mediterranean. Spain and Italy are both maritime powers seeking to extend their trade. They know that a colony of Spaniards or Italians once planted on the island of New Guinea, with their country's flag unfurled over their heads, could not be turned out, or that flag hauled down by England, for no Court of Arbitration would decide in England's favour, and both are consequently preparing each its own expedition before England awakens to a sense of her own interests. The Dutch are also preparing their little expedition, it is said, to re-found the Triton Bay Settlement.

English expedition is now organized with a view, if

possible, to assist the Government in its action. For, as we have before remarked, there is absolutely nothing at the present moment for the Government to annex in New Guinea, but the moment a British settlement has been established by private enterprise, then the Imperial Government can step in and rule its own subjects, for an Englishman carries "English law' with him wherever he goes-or did so, at least, before the days of arbitration set in, and commenced to undo that which it took much of the best blood of Great Britain to accomplish.

The most recent, and by far the most reliable, account of New Guinea is that of Captain Moresby, R.N., who lately surveyed the southeastern peninsula of the island, thereby adding much to our geographical knowledge, and handing down his name to posterity as the discoverer of the China Straits. This gallant officer was for many months on the coast of the island. He mixed freely with the natives, and allowed his men to do likewise, thereby sowing the seed of future friendly intercourse between the white man and the aborigines of this region. His recently published narrative of his "Discoveries in New Guinea" is pregnant with interest, while his description of the natural resources of the island, of the manners and customs of its inhabitants, of its climate, of its fine harbours, and of its beautiful scenery, is well calculated to lead many adventurers to endeavour to penetrate into the interior of this "land flowing with milk and honey." The danger is, however, that these pioneers of civilization may undo all the good Captain Moresby has done, and so irritate the natives by their behaviour, as not only to lose their own lives, but to greatly endanger the safety of those who may visit the island

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