CONTENTS

OF

THE FIRST VOLUME.

CHAPTER I.

Alexandria.-Pompey's Pillar.-The Catacombs.-The Warwick

Vase.-The Pacha's Canal.-Boats of the Nile

CHAPTER II.

Page 13

From Alexandria to Cairo.-Experience versus Travellers' Tales.

-An unintended Bath.-Iron Rule of the Pacha.-Entrance

into Cairo.-A Chat with a Pacha

. 28

CHAPTER III.

The Slave-market at Cairo.-Tomb of the Pacha.-The Pyra-

mid of Cheops.-Oppressive Attentions of the Arabs.-The

Sphinx

47

CHAPTER IV.

Journey up the Nile.-An Arab Burial.-Pilgrims to Mecca.-

Trials of Patience.-A Hurricane on the Nile.-A Turkish

Bath

63

CHAPTER V.

Sporting on the Nile.-A Recluse.-An Egyptian Hebe.-Siout.

-A Wolf-race among the Tombs.-Adventure with a Gov-

ernor

CHAPTER VI.

78

Small Favours thankfully received.-Slavery in Egypt.-How to

catch a Crocodile.-An elaborate Joke.-Imaginary Perils.-

Arabs not so bad as they might be

94

CHAPTER VII.

The Temple of Dendera.-Practice against Theory.-Regulating

the Sun.-The French at Thebes.-The Curse of Pharaoh.—

An Egyptian Tournament.—Preparations for Dinner.—An Eng-

lish travelling Lady

CHAPTER VIII.

Page 105

The Rock of the Chain.-Ravages of the Plague.-Deserted

Quarries. A youthful Navigator.—A recollection of Sam Patch.

-Ancient Inscriptions.-A perplexed Major-domo.-A Dinner

without parallel.-An awkward Discovery

CHAPTER IX.

122

Ascent of the Cataracts.-A nautical Patriarch.-Political Im-

provement.-A Nubian Damsel's Wardrobe.-A test of Friend-

ship.-East and West.-Moonlight on the Nile.-Uses of a

Temple

CHAPTER X.

141

Thebes, its Temples and great Ruins.-The Obelisk of Luxor, now

of Paris.-An Avenue of Sphinxes.—Carnac.—The Mummy-

pit. The Tombs of the Kings.-The Memnonium

CHAPTER XI.

.

160

The Arabs and the Pacha.-March into the Desert.-Arab Chris-

tians. A cold Reception.-Arab Punctuality.-A Night in a

Convent.-An Arab Christian Priest.-Speculative Theology.—

A Journey ended before commenced

CHAPTER XII.

174

A Travelling Artist and Antiquary.-An Egyptian Sugar-house.—

Grecian Architecture.-A Melancholy Greeting.-Tyranny of

the Pacha.-Amateurs of Physic.-Memphis.-Adventure with

a Wild Boar.-Perils of a Pyramid.-The Catacombs of Birds.

-Amor Patriæ.-Voyaging on the Nile

. 187

A good Word for the Arabs.-A Prophecy fulfilled.-Ruins of a

Lost City.-A Sheik of the Bedouins.-Interviews and Negotia-

tions.-A Hadj, or Pilgrimage to Mecca.-Mohammedan Heav-

en for Wives.-A French Sheik.-The Bastinado.-Departure

for the Desert

CHAPTER XIV.

Page 205

The Caravan.—Arab Political Economy.-A projected Railroad.

-The Sirocco.-Suez.—A travelled Englishman.-The Red

Sea.-Embarcation of Pilgrims.-A Misadventure.-Scriptural

Localities.-The bitter Fountain

CHAPTER XV.

224

The Aspect of the Mountains.-Arab Graves.-The Pacha and

the Bedouins.-The Value of Water.-Perplexing Inscriptions.

-Habits of the Arabs.-Ethics of the Desert.-Breach of the

Marriage Vow.-Arrival at the Convent.-An Excess of Wel-

come.-Greece and America.-Amor Patriæ

CHAPTER XVI.

246

Ascent of Sinai.-A Miracle.-The Grotto of Elias.-A Monkish

Legend.-The Pinnacle of Sinai.-Anchorites.-Mohammed

and his Camel.-An Argument.—Legend of St. Catharine.—

The Rock of the Tables.-The Stone struck by Moses.-De-

scription of the Convent.-Habits and Character of its In-

mates

268

CHAPTER XVII.

Diet of the Monks.—Advantages of Abstinence.-Scruples over-

come. A mysterious Brother.-The Convent Burial-place.-

Strange Charnel-houses.-Death in a Mask.-Familiarity breeds

Contempt.-A Man of two Centuries.-Doubts and Fears.-

Parting Gifts.-The Farewell

291

ERRATA TO VOLUME I.

Page 22, line 25 from the top, comma after "population."

25,"10

66 72,

105,

66

39

36

for "100,000"
"❝ten"

read 150,000.

66 66

""turban"

too.

""Petræa"
"Elino"

66 66