socii criminis, were beheaded, and their bodies burned. It was asserted that, during the dreadful puishment, Solyman exhibited the most invincible fortitude, uttering no other expression than moi, moi. The skeleton of this assassin was sent to Paris, where it may be seen in the Museum in the King's Garden.

I afterwards went to Soubra, a palace of the Pacha, on the banks of the Nile; but in consequence of his ladies being at the time in possession of it, whose number I could not ascertain, admittance was denied me. I was permitted, however, to go over the gardens; the walks are laid with pebbles of various colours; and to view the fountains and temples, when the slaves in waiting presented me with a nosegay; an act which, in the East, uniformly conveys a hint that some pecuniary gratification or compensation is expected in return.

On the following day I visited the citadel of Cairo, an extensive fortress, standing on an elevation called Gibbel Girgis, supposed to have been founded seventeen centuries ago, in which enormous masses of ruins every where attract attention. Some of the new buildings which the Pacha was erecting, made a handsome appearance; and, taking the place altogether, it seemed more orderly and better regulated than any other that I had yet seen in Egypt.

CHAP. VI.

GRAND CAIRO.

WELL OF JOSEPH.

AUDIENCE OF THE MINISTER OF THE PACHA. PALACE. -REVIEW OF THE JANISSARIES. MULES. - BAZARS. REFLECTIONS. — DISEASED EYES OF CHILDREN. BATHS. - MOSQUES. -- CHURCHES.

SLAVE MARKET.

POLICE.

AFTER I had visited the foundery of the Pacha in the citadel, and seen the operation of making cannon, I was conducted to what has been denominated the well of Joseph. This extraordinary excavation is by some ascribed to the patriarch of that name; but others contend, that it was the work of a Mahomedan vizier so designated.

This well is dug in the rock to the depth of two hundred and eighty feet, and is forty-two in circumference. A winding staircase leads gradually to the bottom, where oxen are employed in turning the wheels, by which a constant supply of water is thrown up for the use of the citadel. The machinery resembles in some degree, the chain-pumps of a British man-of-war. About six hundred earthen pitchers are attached, at certain distances, to ropes, those descending being inverted and empty, and the others ascending, upright and filled with water. The tomb of the vizier is shown in the side of the well at the bottom. A lamp is kept constantly burning over it. The staircase by which I descended into the well was about six feet in width, the rock having been left half a yard thick between the passage and the shaft of the well, by which means the steps of the stairs are supported, and holes are cut through to admit light from the shaft at convenient distances. The descent is easy, each step being six inches deep and five in breadth. Having reached the depth of one hundred and fifty feet, I entered a large chamber, which was also excavated, where the oxen are employed to move the machinery

to raise the water from the lower parts of the well to the bottom of the upper part, from whence it is drawn by another set of these animals and wheels, to the top. The water is not considered, however, to be good; and a supply is brought by an aqueduct from the Nile, at Old Cairo, a short distance from the new metropolis.

After examining this wonderful excavation, which is not unworthy even of the laborious antient Egyptians, I proceeded to the government-house, at the upper part of the citadel. This is a handsome edifice, erected by the present governor, Mahomed Ali, where I was introduced to the Kaya Bey, who acts in the capacity of prime minister. He was attended by persons of rank and power, who sat next him cross-legged, after the eastern custom, each smoking a pipe, and drawing the right hand across his breast when he addressed the minister. A number of slaves, arranged in front, in the form of a semicircle, were in attendance. At first the minister appeared to assume a high air of superiority; his head was erect, his manners were repulsive, and his language measured; but after entering into conversation for some time, he was polite, though greatly inferior to his master in this respect; and the questions he put were more of a courteous nature, than with a view to any important information. Although pipes and tobacco were handed to me by the attendants, who previously took a few puffs, and at presenting, bowed and placed their hands on the breast; yet the minister did not confer upon me what is considered in the East a high mark of condescension, taking the pipe out of his own mouth, and presenting it to me to smoke after him. This is tantamount to the sovereign of our own country permitting a subject, on being presented to him on any special occasion, to kiss his hand.

It may be here mentioned, that the pipes are very long; the mouth-pieces and bowls are frequently splendid; the length and decoration are in proportion to the dignity of the person who uses them. The tubes of those belonging to the lower orders of the people are generally formed of reeds. The bowls are of clay and of different colours.

Even in smoking it is considered by the Mahomedans as indecent to expectorate. They use a reclining posture; they walk about a little, and express much surprise at what is considered the restlessness of the Europeans, who are continually in motion.

At this time the minister, like the Pacha, at the audience in Alexandria, was seated in the corner of an apartment, which is the place of honour, and near a window, looking into the grand square, so as to observe every thing which occurred there. On this occasion he appeared to listen to, and decide such complaints as were brought before him, either in writing or viva voce.

Before I departed from the palace I was permitted to view the apartments of the Pacha. The principal room, or hall of audience, presented a generally handsome effect; the walls were surrounded with sofas, and a large glass chandelier was suspended from the ceiling. Instead of pictures, with which our rooms are ornamented, the Mahomedans use particular passages of the Koran, as was the case here. The view from the windows constitutes, however, the true magnificence of the saloon; it commands the whole city of Cairo, adorned with lofty domes, pinnacles, and trees, as if they were under the feet; the Nile, the pyramids, the desert, in the direction of the Red Sea, and, in short, a boundless view. Language is totally inadequate to describe the grandeur of that goodly prospect which spread around, arising not, perhaps, so much from its extent, or even from those objects which are presented to the view, as from the distinctness with which every thing is seen through the pure transparency of the Egyptian atmosphere. There are very few trees to be seen in the city; those which are cultivated are the date and mulberry.

I afterwards attended an inspection of the janissaries in the grand square, some of whom were Frenchmen who accompanied Buonaparte to Egypt. The want of uniformity in the style and colour of their dresses was disagreeable to the eye; they seemed to encumber their

bodies and limbs, and had the appearance of meanness, compared with the neat and regular effect of European uniforms. The band of music was barbarous in the extreme, and the harsh and squeaking sounds they made were inharmonious. Drums were beat by persons sitting in the attitude of their legs crossed. At the conclusion of the whole an officer uttered an exclamation in a slow plaintive voice, upon which each soldier, as in a moment, leaned his head to the right on the shoulder of his neighbour, and after standing a short time in this position, which I was told was equivalent to an acknowledgement that their heads were at the disposal of the Pacha, they were dismissed, and each ran off with velocity.

The city of Grand Cairo, though unquestionably large and populous, appears more so than almost any town I have visited; yet it has none of that external magnificence, in buildings and spacious streets, which we are led to expect from a capital. The circumference of the walls may be estimated at about six English miles, the streets are exceeding narrow like the lanes in London, the broadest perhaps being little more than from twelve to fifteen feet. People of all nations are to be found frequenting it, but Arabs appear to constitute the greatest part of the population. In all directions, especially in the principal streets, crowds of people are seen on foot and horseback, and mules passing along; and there is a constant buzz and hum. Few who can afford to ride think of walking, but go about on mules, which stand in the streets for hire; and the number of them, I was informed, exceeds 60,000. From the extraordinary crowd, and narrow streets, there is a complete pressure in getting along, and the difficulty is further increased by those mountains, if I may use the expression, formed of cotton, rice, and other articles, which are piled on the backs, and arranged on the sides, of camels, who appear to march forward with a kind of pomp and stateliness, and clear the way, since to them every object must yield. Women generally ride astride, and make a very ludicrous appearance, from being muffled