by heaps of stones to insure a safe track to the traveller, and prevent his going astray, as I remarked in travelling through the desert to Rosetta.

In this journey I mentioned that we had proceeded on mules. These animals are alluded to in many parts of Scripture, as instances of the creating power and goodness of God. Their first use appears to be ascribed to Anah the son of Zibean, whose daughter Aholibama was given in marriage to Esau.* Great as the rank of David was, we find they were received into his service, that he rode upon them, and commanded his son to follow his example. They formed parts of many of the gifts which were presented to Solomon, by those who were admitted into his presence, to hear the "wisdom which God had put in his heart." In the remarkable drought which followed the prayer of Elijah, to punish the king of Israel, it appears to have been his special care to preserve these animals. They are remarkably steady, sure-footed, and patient, and the leaders rarely allow them to gallop, but to go a slow pace, which renders a journey extremely tedious. The Arabs treat their mules with great humanity and tenderness. They express great indignation at those persons who compel them to go a quicker pace than is natural to them, and will rather follow them on foot, than burthen them by their weight, if they consider it too much for them to carry.

I preferred the motion of the mule to either that of the dromedary or camel. Many of the latter passed me prodigiously loaded. On these travellers and their families are conveyed in deep paniers or baskets placed on each side equipoised, where they sleep, or lie at their ease in perfect safety. The long stride of camels, with the sickening rock of these baskets to and fro, and the objects they contain, have a most ludicrous appearance. Judging from Scripture, we are led to suppose it might have been such kind of baskets which were used in the early ages. || These

beasts of burden are of great importance in such a country as the East. They are gentle and docile, unless provoked by severity of treatment. When struck at, or during the time they are lading very heavy, they make a disagreeable howl or yell, expressive of their anger. We read that at one time they were very numerous in the country, and constituted a great branch of patriarchal wealth.* Little provision satisfies them; their labour and patience almost exceeds credibility. As he is doomed to travel over the parched desert, nature has enabled him to lay in that quantity of water within himself which will supply his wants for several days. Those who sit on the back of the camel, at a see-saw motion, are far from being pleasantly situated. The common pace of this stately animal may be calculated at little more than two miles an hour; one cause is, the kind of sauntering pace that it usually takes, and from its being disposed to halt, and nibble at every appearance of the barest plant or blade which it may happen to notice. It is to the camel that our Lord alludes in his memorable rebuke to the Pharisees.+ The camel eats sparingly, trots at the rate of twelve miles an hour, and from its swiftness and peculiarity of motion, a rider is frequently obliged to have his mouth tied with a handkerchief to preserve respiration, and at the end of his journey finds himself almost in a state of insensibility from exertion and fatigue. Such is the attention and anxiety for the comforts of it on the part of the Arab, that he always supplies its wants before he attends to his own. In short, the camel must be ranked as an animal of pre-eminent importance in the eye of a traveller. On the other hand, the dromedary is a creature of greater velocity of motion ‡, and is now commonly employed in carrying dispatches requiring expedition, as they were of old.§ It may perhaps be to the swiftness of this animal that Job refers, when he speaks of the rapidity with which his time on earth passed away.

I observed that we stopped at the caravanserai near lake

Utko, where we ferried across, and being the first place of the kind I had seen, it is proper I should speak of it particularly. These edifices are of two kinds. Those in. cities are for the accommodation of travelling merchants; but, such as are here and there placed along the roads or track, or attached to the ports, are intended for the temporary use of travellers. These caravanserais, which are open to persons of every religious persuasion, are sometimes built on a large scale. They are mossy structures, having recesses like cloisters or arches of considerable depth, elevated about two feet from the ground; many of them are without doors or inclosures for the accommodation of travellers. There is a large court or area in front, where the animals are fastened to the ground, and the entrance is secured by large gates. As no provisions are to be found in these places, the traveller is obliged to provide every article he requires, who is abundantly supplied with the purest water from fountains in the area. In both cases, in consequence of the facilities which they afford for the commission of crimes, particularly that of theft, they are respected by the devout Mahomedan as more sacred than ordinary houses; and I apprehend it is in allusion to this feeling that the son of Sirach expresses himself.*

Although caravanserais are generally considered as having been erected at the public expence; yet different travellers mention, and I personally know the statement to be correct, that they are sometimes built as fountains are, for refreshing the traveller, and, from a principle of piety, endowed with certain lands to keep them in proper repair. There can indeed be no doubt that these resting places, (for they differ from the Khans, in furnishing refreshments as well as lodging,) were known in Judea during the time of our Lord, as he supposes the Samaritan committed the wounded man to the care of a caravanserai, and promised at his return to pay for whatever his condition might require.

* Ecclesiasticus, xli. 19.

But, although heaps of stones not only mark the path, and caravanserais provide accommodation for the traveller on the wide wastes of these countries, yet it is altogether indispensable that he should have guides to accompany him, in whom he can repose a degree of confidence. These conductors not only know where water is to be found, which is so highly essential, but likewise the distances between resting places, as well as those parts of the tract where speed is requisite, or the traveller may venture to pursue his journey more at leisure. Although I had with me a most experienced interpreter, who spoke the languages of the East and other countries, I found it indispensably necessary to have a proper guide, who knew local situations. This I strongly recommend to every one who pursues a journey along these toilsome and dreary regions.

VOYAGE UP THE NILE.- PACHA'S BARGE.—WOMEN. -HIDEOUS SPECTACLES ALONG THE BANKS OF THE NILE. HINTS TO TRAVELLERS DRINKING THE WATERS OF IT. DEW. — ARRIVAL AT CAIRO. MISERABLE INN. ASSASSINATION

OF KLEBER.
TRY HOUSE.

PUNISHMENT OF ASSASSIN. - PACHA'S COUN

THE town of Rosetta stands north and south. It is situated on the eastern branch of the Nile, and has not any fortifications. From the soil having been moistened by the overflowing of the Nile it is verdant, and encourages the cultivation of gardens, of which there are several in its vicinity.

The population I should conceive to be about twenty thousand, and the canine species may be estimated at some thousands. Although it must, unquestionably, be allowed, that the swarms of dogs which infest this place may be of occasional use in devouring the carrion and other accidental dead bodies thrown out in the streets, yet travellers must admit, that the numbers tolerated amount to a most prodigious nuisance. They are so annoying that people are frequently obliged to carry a whip in their hands, or some other weapon to defend themselves from the attacks of these animals. Many of them are of a mongrel breed, being propagated by the dog and the jackal, and their head resembles that of the fox. Notwithstanding the dog was an object of adoration among the Egyptians, the Mahomedans will not permit them to enter their habitations, considering them as unclean. They do not, however, hold the cat in the same abhorrence.

Great as the number of the canine species is here stated to be, it is not to be compared with that of Vienna, where