tion. I perceived, however, they afterwards received a sum, which was preferred in lieu of every thing, having, as I was informed, sold the provisions and cloth to those who gave the best price for them. I visited an establishment where instruction was afforded to three thousand children, under the system of education prosecuted in Britain. At the institution of this seminary, it met with great opposition on the part of the monks, who are hostile to every object calculated to enlighten the mind, aware of it having the effect of undermining their own power and influence. It was, however, most vigorously prosecuted by the Duc d' Infantada, one of the most pow erful grandees in Spain in point of opulence, and by whom I was most hospitably entertained, who informed me of his resolution to use the utmost exertions to promote this cause from which the most beneficial effects might be expected; and that an institution of a similar nature for the benefit of the army was on the eve of being established. Towards evening the public resort to the Prado, and contiguous gardens. This is a broad walk lined with trees, and adorned with flowers, where the royal family parade at a slow pace in their carriages, especially on Sundays, and on each side of it are avenues for pedestrians. In these gardens is a basin of pure water, where the king has a college in the Chinese style of architecture, called El Retiro. The ladies appear low in stature, with thin yellow countenances, black eyes, and I did not discover that they put paint on the face: they are uniformly dressed in short black silk gowns, having no other cover for the head than a laced veil of a black or white colour, tastefully attached to the hair knot, and thrown across the shoulders; their dexterity in employing the hand with the fan, and tossing it to and fro, is perhaps unrivalled. The fountains are numerous and the water excellent. Persons are prohibited here from driving with more than four horses in their carriage. An immense building was pointed out, at the view of which humanity shudders. These were the walls which inclosed the Inquisition, where there was a mounted guard. Many of the miserable inmates had been recently liberated, in consequence of the change of political circumstances, but I could not possibly get access to view the dungeons where such terrible acts of barbarity and tyranny had been committed in secrecy, so as to be able to give an explanation of them. In the theatre there is a strange practice of putting into the hands of the spectators, about the conclusion of the piece, an amount of the receipts for the night. Among the military orders in Spain, it may be mentioned that the principal are the Golden Fleece, and that of Charles the Third. Gipsies infest every part of the country. These are calculated at upwards of 50,000, who prowl about, or stroll in bands, and have a kind of slang language peculiar to themselves, and it is said are prohibited by law from possessing land, or serving in the capacity of soldiers. In the country, ladies are in the habit of riding on mules, and in a sort of chair stuffed with pillows, and many of the lower orders I observed to ride astride. It was surprising to observe the number of dwarfs and diminutive objects, especially in families of distinction. This appears to have been an antient custom among the Spaniards, if one is to judge from the antique paintings, shewn here, where a dwarf is always to be seen among groups of personages of the highest rank. INDOLENCE OF PEASANTRY. - VITBOURINTERVIEW WITH THE KING. QUEEN'S TORIA. - BISCAY. -PYRENNEES. BAYONNE. DEAUX. PARIS. - CORDET. RIVAL IN LONDON. I LEFT Madrid in the direction of France, and in a diligence similar to the one in which I had set off from Seville, drawn by eight mules, with several passengers. I travelled as usual at a slow funeral pace through a wild and mountainous country, under considerable apprehensions of being attacked by banditti, and often arrived at low ale-houses, according to the pleasure of the driver, where the accommodation was very wretched. Several of these passados have large covered gateways, through which the vehicle is admitted into an extensive place, like those appropriated in England for waggons, in which are step-ladders, similar to those leading to cock-lofts, which conduct to the house. These are most wretchedly furnished, dirty, and the walls plastered with paltry pictures, where every thing was uncomfortable, and the entertainment meagre. Nothing appeared more reprehensible than the apathy and indifference of the peasantry. Most of them were in rags, most squalid in countenance, and particularly marked by an unconquerable indolence, since instead of exercising the slightest degree of industry, groups were to be met about the farm-houses and villages standing unemployed, like so many statues, and others stretched out on the ground, muffled up in long brown mantles or cloaks, with broad hats; and at the gable and backs of houses, which had, at particular hours, been exposed to the sun, smoking segars, totally indifferent to the concerns of life or their families. After travelling through a savage country, Vittoria came into view, which is situated in front of an extensive plain, and where British courage was so eminently conspicuous. Next day I went over the field of battle, and then proceeded on the journey. I then entered Biscay, a country most strikingly different from that I had travelled, where there is a bountiful soil, and a remarkable spirit of industry among the people, who are considered high minded, the lowest peasant is clothed and in a state of comfort. There is presented the most charming and diversified picturesque scenery imaginable for the pencil of the artist. This part of Spain may be considered as independent, and enjoys peculiar privileges and exemptions, where Ferdinand is not acknowledged king, but is called lord of Biscay, and there is a watchful eye observed in guarding against any invasion of their privileges. The carriage was upset at a high bridge, by coming in contact with a stone, when I was thrown out, and nearly pitched into the river. Icrossed the Pyrenées, and afterwards the river which divides Spain and France, where a singular circumstance occurred; namely, I was required to give an account of the money I had in my pocket, a demand never heretofore made in any country through which I had travelled in Europe or elsewhere. I then arrived at Bayonne and Bourdeaux, and reached Paris in safety, where I was honoured with a private audience of Louis the Eighteenth, on the particulars of my journey through the Holy Land. As Paris has been so repeatedly described, it may be considered altogether superfluous to say a syllable respecting it. My remarks shall therefore be confined to a few particulars which may, perhaps, not have been known to all visitors of that capital. At an early period, on the restoration of the legitimate family, I visited a garden, where the ashes of the unfortunate Louis XVI. and his queen were deposited, under weeping willows; and those of Charlotte Cordet, who put a period to the blood-thirsty vengeance of Marat, were laid in the centre of it. The royal remains were taken up when the head of the king was found between his ancles; and what is remarkable, the garter of the queen was almost in a complete state of preservation. On examining this grave, which had just been opened; I found it to be lined with brick. The garden was purchased by government, and the royal ashes were conveyed to the tomb of the Bourbons at St. Dennis. A church is now built in the garden, where the altar stands over the grave of the unfortunate Antoinette. I visited the dungeon of the Conciergerie, where her majesty was so barbarously treated previous to her decapitation, which I found to be twenty feet in length by eight in breadth, with an inscription. * Hoc in loco Maria Antonia Josepha Johanna Austriaca Ludovici 16 Vidua In carcerem conjecta Luctu et squalore adfecta Propria Virtute immixta A. D. M.D.CCCXVI. Ludovici 18 Regnantes anno 22. Comite de Cazes A securitate publica Regis Ministro Prefecto ædelibusque curiantibus Quisquis his ades Adora admirare precare. |