the drunkard. On being inclosed in it, the machine turned with such velocity of motion as to occasion an operation which soon restored him to sobriety. The residence of the governor is called the convent, from the edifice having been occupied at one time by a religious order, is spacious; contiguous to which is an English church, and of which the walls are adorned with monuments to the memory of many of the British who fell in the service of their country. The governor has also a country house, a few miles distant, most romantically situated, and overhung by the rock. There is a dissenting meeting, a theatre, and a public school, in which instruction is given to poor children on the British system, in which the late Duke of Kent, governor, took a marked interest. There is, perhaps, the best mercantile and military library to be found in any part of the Mediterranean. The exertions which have been made in the public buildings, the formation of streets and lanes, cut out of the solid rock, and bringing many parts of it into a state of cultivation; also the laying out public walks and gardens is remarkable, and reflects the highest honour on the spirit and indefatigable exertions of General Don; in short, every reasonable comfort is to be obtained in Gibraltar, as the climate is healthy, although the heat is insufferable during the summer months, from the powerful reflection of the sun on the rock, which often affects the eyesight. Among the mercantile inhabitants, those of the Scottish appear to exceed in number those of the English nation. Beyond the lines which divide the English and Spanish ground, are to be seen the wrecks of several works or fortifications, thrown up on the beach in the plain under St. Roch by the besiegers, in 1782, during the attack of this place, when the British power was so eminently triumphant. There is an elevation, called the Chair of the Queen of Spain, from the circumstance of her selecting this spot on that memorable occasion. It is only necessary further to observe that there is here perhaps the finest bay in the world, from which is a distinct view of the town of Algeziras, on the opposite or western side, and from the constant arrival and departure of vessels, there is always a chearful activity and bustle kept up at Gibraltar, which, with its impregnable fortress, may, in short, be considered as a place of the highest importance to Britain, in a political and commercial point of view. DESCRIPTION. MONKS. MILITARY ESCORT. LADIES SMOKING. - DEPARTURE. FECTS OF WAR.- SPANISH COMPLIMENT TO A JOUR- ARANJUEZ. CONVERSATION WITH ROYAL I Now directed my steps towards Spain, which at this period had been thrown into great agitation by the opinions of the army having been divided on political matters. One branch of it had been styled the troops of the king, and the other those of the constitution. I first crossed the lines, and proceeded to St. Roque, which owes its name to a religious recluse, who took up his abode there. It is a small village, where the governor and many of the inhabitants of Gibraltar take up a residence during the summer months. I afterwards went along shore in the direction of Malaga. In the course of the journey, I was repeatedly stopped by officers of the king's army, who examined all travellers, and put up in a village for the night at what is called a passado, or alehouse, of the very worst description, where, among other dishes, a national one, called Puchiaro, was put on the table, which appeared to be a sort of stew of meat. I was accommodated with a bed thinly covered and hard, which lay on the floor of brick, and a jug of water was placed at the side of it, similar to what is observed in the cells of felons. Next morning I set out, and arrived in the evening at Malaga, which may be calculated at about 100 miles from the rock of Gibraltar, and was received at the house of Mr. Kilpatrick, Consul for Hanover, the friend of all travellers. This place, which was founded by the Moors, and captured by the Spaniards in the year 1487, is situ ated close to the sea, at the foot of a chain of hills; there is a Moorish castle on an elevation contiguous to it, with an extensive and commodious bay. At the time of my visit all the inhabitants were in a state of alarm, from circumstances of a political nature. One incident struck me as remarkable, on entering the town, at the principal walk or promenade, just as the sun was going down. Every person who had a few minutes previously marked the progress of the sun, whether they were pedestrians, on horseback, or in carriages, stood still in a moment, on this glorious luminary disappearing, as if by an immediate impulse, or word of command, when they remained uncovered, the females veiling their faces with fans, and a devotional soliloquy was repeated by each, expressive of gratitude for the mercies experienced from the God of heaven during the day. If the sentiments of the heart corresponded with acts of an external nature, it would lead to the conclusion that they were a people highly impressed with the importance of religion. The chief edifice here, as an object of interest, is the cathedral, built in the year 1528. This is 125 feet in height, and the same extent in front, illuminated with 160 windows, and annexed to it is the palace of a bishop. In the plague which raged here in 1637, 20,000 of the inhabitants fell a sacrifice. The hills around are beautifully adorned with vines, which give a peculiar character to the wine made there, which is called in England "Mountain." There is a broad public walk, having trees planted on each side, and ornamented with fountains, denominated the Alemeida, which is chiefly frequented during the evening. On leaving Malaga I proceeded through the mountains, in the direction of Ossuna, taking with me two armed guides, and at one miserable passado found an accommodation as to bed the same as formerly, in an apartment with windows of iron bars, similar to a prison. Had a Briton looked into it from the outside, and found an inmate, he would naturally form the opinion that he was a felon. Such was the gross ignorance of the landlord that it was the first time, he had heard of a teapot to infuse the article of tea. He first put hot water into a small earthen jug, and afterwards the tea, which he stirred round, supposing this was all that was necessary to make the beverage palatable. I perceived one dish here which the Spaniards considered as a luxury; this was flour, cut meat, onions, and oil, mixed up into the form or consistence of a pancake, which travellers put in their pockets, cut into slices, and eat during their journey. I arrived at Ossuna, and found part of the king's army in expectation of being attacked by a party of the constitutionalists or liberals, as they were sometimes called, under the command of general Riego. I remained here two days, when I was interrupted by the visits or rather intrusions of monks, from various quarters, who, having learned that I had been travelling through the Holy Land, annoyed me for presents of beads and crosses, the manufacture of Jerusalem *, and a counterpart of the shape of the foot, represented to be that of Christ †, I formerly alluded to, as impressed on the Mount of Olives, at the period of his ascension to heaven. The last appeared to them in a more especial manner an object of peculiar adoration. Having been introduced to the governor, and invited to a party at his house, it was the first time I had occasion to observe ladies with segars in their mouths, which were formed of tobacco rolled up in straw, about the length and thickness of a quill. They were seated in + Page 115 * Page 134. |