Arab. After viewing a picture in the dining hall of the monks, which had been particularly pointed out to me, representing the apostle Paul on his knees before Ananias receiving his benediction, and presenting the Superior of the convent with donations for the poor, he gave me a formal sealed certificate of having visited the city*, and I departed from Damascus.

* Appendix.

TEMPLE OF THE SUN.- DESCRIPTION OF ITS ORIGINAL PRESENT STATE OF THE TOWN AND RUINS.

GRANDEUR.

POPULATION.

ZACHALE.

OPERATIONS ON THE ROOFS OF HOUSES IN

CONSEQUENCE OF RAIN. — INHABITANTS.

ANCIENT CUS

TOMS.

SCRIPTURE REFERENCES.

-

PLOUGH.

I

SET out on the afternoon of the 29th of March, taking a road nearly in the direction I had travelled from the vale of Aven or Baal, after descending from Mount Lebanon, and enjoying a final view of Damascus from the top of the mountain, where I had the first prospect of this fertile and delicious territory, with all its surrounding beauties. After travelling a short distance, I fell in with some Arabs, of whom some suspicions were entertained, from their keeping so close to the side of the mules, and showing an anxiety to enter into conversation. When a hint was given by the muleteer that they were robbers, whom, he had reason to suppose, had watched our departure from Damascus, we slackened our pace, and fell behind, until we were overtaken by other travellers, following in the same track. By this precaution we certainly escaped from being plundered by these savages, who appeared to be in rags, with large sticks in their hands, and of the most ferocious aspect.

I halted at a small village in the evening, and lodged in a deplorable narrow hut, where I slept on the ground, blocking up the door for security with large stones.

Next morning I proceeded on the journey, and on reaching the plain, struck across it, in a diagonal direction, to the other side, when I came to another village, called Zachale, upon a commanding elevation, on the brow of a mountain, from which I had most sublime views of this

extensive vale, bounded on each side by chains of lofty mountains, and just at the going down of the sun. I own the grandeur and fertility as well as the romantic and sequestered situation of this vale strongly impressed me with an idea, and especially from considering one passage in Scripture with its contiguity to Damascus, that the Garden called Eden, intimating the superior beauty of the region known under that appellation, may have been locally situated here. I lay down a considerable time on the sheets till the muleteer searched for lodgings, which were found with difficulty, and I was conducted to the hut of a peasant, where he and his family were huddled together in one apartment; they were civil, and accommodated me with one corner of it to repose in. As on former occasions, I passed here a most disturbed night, in consequence of the screaming of children on the one hand, a person groaning in bed, labouring under some disease, on the other; and being annoyed by an attack of vermin, which it was impossible to guard against, although I slept in my clothes, where they burrowed into every part.

On the following morning, the celestial luminary shone brilliantly, gilding the mountains, the plain, and every object around, with inexpressible grandeur. I set out early under the expectation of completing a visit to Baalbeck, and returning to this village the same day. Nothing remarkable occurred during the journey beyond the sight of that romantic and picturesque scenery which decorates this vale, and about mid-day I reached Baalbeck.

But where, it may be asked, is that man, however distinguished by his composition, or his eloquence, who can render proper justice to any description of the striking magnificence of a city of such antiquity, and the sublime monuments of the genius of human creatures? Before I would presume to attempt some faint outline of it, let me collect a few scattered thoughts, and silence that admiration to which fancy may be prone to yield, as often as circumstances occur to recal the exalted grandeur of that noble

*Amos, i. 5.

yet lamentable scene of ruin which may be said to adorn

it.

Among those cities which are distinguished by Oriental names in the geography of Syria, Baalbeck may be ranked as one of peculiar eminence and importance. It stands in a spot so exceedingly retired, and at such a distance from towns or villages, that, in fact, it seems, to use an ordinary expression, as entirely shut out from the world. This city is situated at an extremity of the upper part of the valley, on the east, and between Mount Lebanon on the west. The great magnet of attraction, which draws travellers to this spot, is unquestionably to behold the proud and matchless remains of architectural grandeur and superstitious splendour, more especially the antient temple consecrated to the Sun, where the god of idolatry was worshipped during the ages of gross ignorance and darkness. The view at approaching this place is similar to a city which has become a scene of ruin and desolation from some serious bombardment.

The first object which struck me near to it, was a rotunda of marble, almost in a dilapidated state, and apparently on the eve of falling, crowned with a dome. It is of Corinthian architecture, with a cupola, adorned with rich cornices, and ornamented with figures of eagles, and six columns, about twelve feet in height, which would lead to the supposition that such an edifice must have been of Roman origin, since that bird was a symbolical representation of this people, as much as an owl is that of the Athenians. It is open at the top, but appears to have been covered.

After passing this relic, I came to a lofty pile of building, composed of enormous square stones; but for what purpose it was originally designed, it is difficult to calculate. Going beyond it, I entered a noble arcade, of considerable length, constructed of great blocks of masonry, and arrived at the Grand Temple, which absolutely baffles all description, and must be seen to be believed and properly understood. Any person who has the slightest taste for beauty of architecture, cannot fail to reach the highest pitch

of admiration, when beholding this famous monument, which is of exquisite workmanship, and, perhaps, the most beautiful model of antiquity now in existence.

In a general point of view, the edifice appeared to resemble in a considerable degree the church of St. Paul, Covent Garden, London. The columns which support the whole are fifty-four feet in height, and about six in diameter. On each side there are fourteen pillars, and eight of them sustain the east and west porticoes. These lofty objects stand separate from each other about nine feet, and at an equal distance from the wall of the body of the temple. The covering, which stretches from the architrave over the pillar to the wall, is formed of massy stones, scooped out, to resemble an arch; and in the centre of each is a representation of gods or goddesses, which are carved in the most beautiful manner that imagination can almost figure. The state of many of these effigies bears evidence of the hands of Mahomedans having been lifted up against them, who, in prosecution of their hatred, endeavour to spread desolation around, by hurling down the noblest remains of antiquity. I was told, that at one time, from not being able to demolish a part of this temple by manual labour, they blew it up with gunpowder; and the ruins are now lying about in huge and awful masses. Some of these relics of sculpture, however, from being so very tinct, appear to have braved all attacks, especially those of Mercury and Jupiter, in the shape of an eagle, carrying off Ganymede in triumph, which are so nicely executed, that they perhaps exceed every thing of the kind to be seen in any country on the face of the globe. It would, however, be in vain to describe all the beauties which crowd this stupendous structure, captivate the eye, and overpower the spectators with silent wonder. The whole ceremonial of heathen mythology is represented in bas relief, by processions of individuals, victims, &c. in the highest style that the utmost sketch of ingenuity and art can exhibit.

dis

This heathen temple, which has been always understood as faultless in every part, from that correct taste and sym