Billeder på siden
PDF
ePub
[graphic][subsumed][subsumed][subsumed][subsumed][merged small]
[blocks in formation]

The bazaars, which are on a large scale, and the objects of curiosity, are in general crowded, being sheltered from the heat. As similar establishments have been introduced into the English and Irish metropolises, it may supersede the necessity of giving any particular explanation of them here. The numerous professions are arranged in an independent and methodical manner, each having its own bazaar separate from those of others. There is one for shoe-makers; a second for tailors; a third for saddlers; a fourth for silversmiths; &c. These are very commodious for a purchaser, who has no occasion to move about different bazaars in so large a city, but has a specimen of all that he requires before his eyes at the same time, and in the place where the particular articles are exhibited. The bazaar of Sinan, founded by a spirited individual named Sinan, formerly one of the governors of the city, has a decided preference over all the others.

The eminent skill of the Damascenes in the art of making steel, particularly the blades of swords, is unrivalled, arising, it is said, from the water being so peculiarly favorable for tempering steel as well as iron; they may be considered as one of the articles of polished life. Knives are also manufactured, and the handles beautifully ornamented with gilded flowers; in short, their ingenuity in inlaying metal with gold, is unequalled, perhaps, by any artificers in Europe. The manufacture of silk called damask was originally invented here; as also were the cloths, especially those of a red and purple colour, a robe of which I purchased at a reasonable price; and a representation of it is given in the prefixed plate.

Among the different gates of the city is one, where certain articles passing through are exempted from duty, in consequence of being called the Port of Mecca, and hence it may be considered a sort of via sacra. Damascus is a marked place of rendezvous for pilgrims, who are to set out on a visit to the tomb of their prophet; the caravans pass through this gate. As a proof of the benevolence of government, one building, on a large scale, has been established for the operation of baking biscuit for

U

their use on the journey. These caravans, it may be remarked, sometimes consist of some hundreds, nay, I was assured, thousands of people, with an equal number of camels. They are divided into companies, and move along in this form, like troops, each having an officer at its head. Camels, as I formerly observed, have each a bell round the neck, as represented in the view of Damascus in this work, and the tinkling of it may be heard at a great distance; the caravan is preceded by trumpets blowing, which, we learn from the Scripture*, was also adopted as a signal by the children of Israel, in the course of their journies.

Contiguous to the city is a field, which has been set apart for the Mahomedans drawing out their troops, for performing military manœuvres. There are places of enjoyment and recreation in the gardens, and on the banks of the river, where the delightful native Damask rose is to be seen, throwing forth its sweets. A café is very attractive, and is capable of containing about a hundred persons ; one of these is in a small island surrounded by the river; where, under the shade of trees, and seated on mats, the Turks, who always court the most cool retreat, loll, and regale themselves, smoking their pipes, the hooka, drinking coffee, sherbet, &c.; many of them wash their hands previous to using the pipe as well as before eating. In the city there are a number of places similar to publichouses in England, the coverings and roofs of which are supported with rows of pillars, having no floors but the bare earth, levelled, beat into a solid substance, and have wooden benches round them; many of these are covered with cloth, to imitate sofas. Paltry as these places appear to the eye of an Englishman, they are regarded by the Damascenes as handsome; they crowd to them, enjoy smoking, pass hours in indolent ease, and, from the contentment which marks the countenance, appear perfectly satisfied; they consider them as high luxuries. Provisions are in abundance in Damascus, and the finest fruits are reason

Numbers x. 2. Id. x. 5, 6.

[blocks in formation]

able in price. The wines are stronger than those I met with in any country in which I travelled. Having quaffed a small tumbler of wine, at entering the convent on my arrival, in consequence of being overpowered with fatigue and heat, under an idea that it might be refreshing and light, like those of France, I was thrown, almost immediately, into a state of stupidity, or slight intoxication, which put me on my guard as to repeating the libation.

According to my information Lady Stanhope pays annually to the Pacha two thousand piastres, in all probability in the name of tribute money, and as an acknowledgement of his authority.

I had occasion to mention the marked prejudice of the Mussulman to the costume of a Christian, and the insult received, when at one time I had availed myself of it, in walking about Jerusalem, since this dress recals to his mind the strict principles of the faith professed by Christians, so diametrically opposite to those maintained by himself. The peculiar offence which this occasions, applies, indeed, to all parts of the Holy Land where any Mahomedan is to be found, but in none is it more marked and despised than at Damascus. In that city, there exists the deepest rooted hatred against it; but above all to the hat being worn, in consequence of the city being esteemed peculiarly sacred. I recollect being advised to be extremely cautious in assuming any part of the Christian dress; and that if I presumed to walk about with a hat on my head, the greatest risk would be encountered of forfeiting my life, a hint I take the liberty to give to travellers.

It is impossible in the compass to which I am limited, to attempt a description of all that attracts attention in Damascus, the general appearance of which, it may be observed, resembles the form of a square; but considering the sole motive that prompted me to visit a place so extremely remote, and the reflections I have endeavoured from time to time to embody in the present narrative, it may be expected that I should describe the special objects respecting the Christian dispensation which exist at this

« ForrigeFortsæt »