CHAP. XXVII. DEPARTURE FROM TYRE. ZAREPTA. PRE POOR ARRIVAL AT SIDON. FORMER IMPORTANCE OF IT. - ARTS AND SCIENCES. INVENTION OF THE ALPHABET AND ARITHMETIC. SENT STATE OF IT. - TRADE. FRENCH CONSUL. CONVENT.- CORRESPONDENCE WITH LADY HESTER STANHER POLITENESS. GENERAL CHARACTER. HOPE. AFTER the venerable archbishop had embraced me, and I had put into his hands a trifle for the poor of his church, I set off early on the 16th of March. The morning was beautiful, and a most brilliant sun arose from his chambers, rejoicing, as it were, to run his course, when I set off from that lamentable mass of ruins which envelop the once gorgeous city of Tyre, and directed my course to Sidon. I proceeded along the shore, then passed the river Kasmia, leading through a valley enveloped with mountains, passing a bridge formed of a single arch. I halted at a kahn on the sea-side to the left, calculated to be about half way between Tyre and Sidon, having a distinct view of the village of Zarepta, on the top of a mountain to the right hand, about a mile distant. I regretted, that, from the arrangements I had made, it precluded a possibility of turning from the tract to visit it. This village, though humble in appearance, has been eminently distinguished by the residence of Elijah *, during a famine in the land of Israel; the little all presented to the prophet by a disconsolate widow, from her barrel of meal, was rewarded in a manner equally bountiful as it was miraculous. + A higher recompence was conferred upon her, by his restoring to life that son who was the special * 1 Kings xvii. 9. Luke iv. 25, 26. † 1 Kings xvii. 12—16. Id. xvii. 17-22. object of the affection of his benefactor; it brought conviction to her mind, that he was in truth a deliverer sent from heaven. * The altitude of this place also brings to recollection an observation which was made by our Saviour. † After taking refreshment, and collecting some beautiful shells which abounded on the shore ‡, I continued the journey, and arrived at Sidon in the evening, which I had previously perceived from a considerable distance, overlooked by the peak of Mount Lebanon, in the direction of Damascus ; an elevation adopted as one of the images which frequently occur in the style of the sacred historians, expressive of the dignity of the Christian church. § Zidon, or Sidon, owes its name to the eldest of the sons of Canaan, and was comprehended under the "lots” or possessions formally assigned to the tribe of Asher. It appears to have been higher in point of antiquity than Tyre, although both have been classed in the characters of sisters, arising, most likely, from their contiguity; and publicly considered as a city of large extent and importance, since it has been distinguished by the title of "Zidon the Great."** Among various arts and sciences, the invention of the alphabet and arithmetic; making of glass, and skill in casting and sculpture, have been celebrated, and an unrivalled dexterity in hewing of wood ++, will hand down a Sidonian name in the page of history to the latest period of time. The commercial pursuits also of this people were as lucrative as they were extensive ‡‡; abundant materials for the purposes of ship-building in the adjoining mountains, especially about Mount Lebanon, so extolled for its lofty cedars, were within their reach, and commodious ports stretching along a line of coast, enabled them to engage in trade of a maritime nature, or, according to a scriptural * 1 Kings xvii. 24. + Matt. v. 14. Specimens of these are to be seen in the Hunterian Museum in the University of Glasgow. 66 expression, pass over the sea," to such an extent as to render them highly opulent. Their views were thus directed to all parts of the world; to the then savage shores of Britain, the Mediterranean, and even as far as the Black Sea. Of the enterprises, however, which may be considered most remarkable, and, in itself, deemed, at that time, as great in point of importance as the voyage of Columbus, may be classed one undertaken by Necho, king of Egypt. Having taken skilful Phoenician mariners into his service, and sent out great fleets to the Red Sea, for the prosecution of discoveries, they boldly cruized, doubled the promontory, now called the Cape of Good Hope; returned during the third year from their departure, by Gibraltar, and anchored safely at Alexandria. Although Sidon is only occasionally alluded to in the volume of inspiration*, and not so frequently mentioned as other places, yet there is every reason to suppose, that city was honored with the presence of Christ; since it is known that he frequented that part of the country, in the prosecution of his errands of peace and good-will to a fallen world. It was here that on one remarkable occasion an act of strong faith in his divinity was exercised by the mother of a child possessed of an evil spirit, who fell prostrate at his feet, imploring the exercise of his mighty power to render relief, which was followed by the accomplishment of a miracle in the person of the infant. It enjoyed also the presence of his ambassador, the great apostle of the Gentiles, in prosecuting the voyage made to Italy, when he visited the brethren who had embraced the Christian faith established there.§ Sidon, as it stands at this moment, is a small town, rising gradually from the sea shore, and exhibits much misery. The climate is peculiarly mild; the streets are excessively narrow, many of them under archways, as at Jerusalem; the inhabitants are estimated at about seven *Matt. xi. 21. + Mark iii. 7, 8. Acts iii. 7. A thousand, of whom two thousand are Christians, who have places of worship; the Jews also, who may be calculated at two hundred, have a synagogue. Considering the small extent of this place, trade at this moment is pretty considerable. Large quantities of silk are gathered in the neighbourhood, which abounds with mulberry trees, to which the industrious worms are so peculiarly attached, and execute the nice and delicate texture of this commodity; and it is a singular circumstance that they either give way, or are affected by a clap of thunder. I visited several apartments where the Sidonians carried on weaving. The article of silk, which was, I think, about the sixteenth century first introduced by the clergy of England, was, in all probability, originally exported from this country.* The trade of dyeing also occupies much attention, especially in producing gaudy hues; but the red appears to be most predominant of all other colours. A chief occupation, however, seemed to be making of boots, shoes, and slippers, with fine Morocco leather. The gardens are beautiful and luxuriant, and the walls surrounding the town are in a state of ruin. On the south side, upon an elevation, is situated a castle, showing traces of its former pride and command, now in a dilapidated state, which is reported to have been founded by, and as a place of residence for one of the kings of France, who has been ranked as one of the saints; though I am rather inclined to think it was erected for the purpose of guarding the town from invasion. There are also the ruins of a second, on a rock in the sea, having a communication with the land by a bridge with many arches of stone. Vessels ride here under a ridge of rocks, a short distance from the shore for shelter, where many of our frigates during the war in Egypt lay at anchor. No person either in Sidon or Tyre acts in the capacity of consul for Britain. These are only stationed in Joppa and Acre, as I formerly mentioned; and also at Bayreuth, to which I shall afterwards conduct the reader. There is, Some of this silk may be seen in the Hunterian Museum, at Glasgow. however, a French consul, named Ruffini; and it is remarkable, that, for almost time immemorial, consuls of that nation have exclusively resided there, and who, it is but justice to observe, have thrown open their doors for the reception of travellers. Since there was no proper place to which recourse could be had for accommodation, I applied to this gentleman on my arrival; he conducted me to a clean and comfortable apartment in his house, which was large and commodious, one of the best in the town; I received much politeness from him. There is, indeed, a kind of convent, contiguous to his residence, but it is marked by extreme misery, and inhabited by a solitary monk, who sits almost daily at the table of the consul. The consul appeared to be in a complete state of inactivity, and heartily tired of the place; he complained of it, not only for its remote and solitary situation, but that few vessels arrived there. He could not calculate even on a sufficient revenue for the support of himself and his family, however moderate the expence of the articles of provision were. The emoluments were so exceedingly trifling, that he resolved to throw up the office, and solicited his government for letters of recal. Having been informed that Lady Hester Stanhope lived at what was formerly denominated "The Convent of Elias," situated in the mountains, about six miles distant, and that she had fitted it up in a modern style, as a place of residence; I took the liberty of expressing my wish, in a polite note, to have the honor of paying my personal respects to her ladyship. I lamented, however, to find this was impracticable, from her indisposition at the time. We, however, exchanged several communications in writing; I had abundant proofs, not only of her ladyship's distinguished abilities and liberality of sentiment, but of the attention paid to the traveller; she requested I would not only freely avail myself of the services of her interpreter, but command the use of horses. The indefatigable exertions which had been used by my illustrious friend, the late Duke of Kent, not only in behalf of suffering humanity, but after the noble example of his |