of any spectator, who was a believer in the Gospel, deep and lasting impressions.

I arrived at Tiberias, which is about thirty miles distant from Nazareth, and entered it by the western gate, which is regularly shut at sun-set, but could not find any other place to repose in during the night than a miserable old building, called the Christian church, resembling a dungeon; light was only admitted by one narrow door. The entrance was by a descent; in front was a small court where the mules were tied up. Shortly after, a venerable Greek priest, bending under great age, with bushy head and beard of grey colour, arrived, with the keys in his hand. To him I presented a letter, written in Arabic, which I had received from my friend, Father Isacarus, at Paris, a native of Bethlehem, who was of the same persuasion. After he had read it attentively, he mentioned, that as accommodation could not be afforded in his own house, there was no other alternative than to sleep in the church. He then opened the door with a great degree of formality, as if he was conferring a distinguished favor; and I gratefully entered, to repose my exhausted limbs, after being worn out with fatigue, and the most oppressive heat of the sun, which had almost darted upon me vertically. This place was enveloped in gloom, and every ornament about the altar was paltry and mean in the extreme. I laid my bed on the floor of stone, which was almost wet with damp; but Michel, having omitted to bring one for himself from Nazareth, had recourse to the expedient of taking the door off its hinges; and was contented to stretch himself upon this, to avoid the effect of the damp which After securing an outer gate of the court, by enormous stones, in consequence of a hint given, to prevent the mules from being stolen, my lighted lamp was placed on the altar; and we attempted to find some repose in this dreary and novel abode.

arose.

CHAP. XXIII.

TIBERIAS.

DOGS.

VERMIN.SPOT WHERE THE HOUSE OF PETER STOOD. LAKE. MIRACLES OF CHRIST. TIBERIAS. -LODGING OF GREEK PRIEST. -WOMEN ORNAMENT THE EYES WITH PAINT. GOVERNOR. DRESS OF SOLDIERS. JEWS' SYNAGOGUE. EMMAUS. -TOMBS OF THE UNCLEAN SPIRITS. OBSERVATIONS. LUDICROUS GROUP OF FEMALES. -PENS.

I

WAS SO extremely annoyed by the barking of dogs outside this place, and the attacks of vermin. within, which were of a red appearance, added to the chilling damp of the church, that I was a stranger to the enjoyment of sleep, and passed one of the most restless nights, longing for the light of day. I arose early, but notwithstanding all the miseries I had endured, they were fully compensated by the honor I enjoyed, in reposing on the spot where the habitation of Peter stood, when he and his brethren were called from their humble vocations to follow their Lord and Master.* This church, situated on the very edge of the water, was founded in commemoration of this event. Several Christians from Nazareth repair to this place yearly, on a certain day, to celebrate the festival of the Saint. It may occur, probably, at the same period which has been set apart in the Church of England in sacred recollection of this Apostle. During a terrible earthquake that occurred at one period here, the edifice almost miraculously escaped.

I proceeded to visit the lake, which has passed under different appellations from the sacred writers; such as the "Sea of Galilee," from being inclosed by Galilee; the "Lake of Genesareth, or Gnezar+;" to these were added

Matt, iv. 18-22.

+ 1 Maccab. ii, 67.

SEA OF CINNERETH.

225

the Sea of Cinnereth and Tiberias;" from the circumstance of a town under the name of the latter, on its western border, being founded by Herod, in honor of the Emperor Tiberias. This picturesque sheet of water, an object of such high veneration, which, with that of the Dead Sea, may be considered as the two principal lakes in the Holy Land, appears to owe its visible origin to the waters of Jordan, which flow from Lebanon, a mountain of great altitude and grandeur, seen in the back ground, to the north, capped with snow, not unlike that of Ben Lomond, in Scotland. Through this lake the Jordan pushes its course, marked by a strong current, leaving it at the southern extremity, and ultimately loses itself in that sea. It may be calculated at eighty, or, perhaps, one hundred miles beyond it. It is frequently subject to commotions. This arises from the mountains which encircle it, and the meeting of the winds, which, when driven back violently, agitate the water.

A variety of opinions have been entertained as to the length and breadth of this water; which, it is singular, has never at any one period of time been accurately ascertained, but merely conjectured, from eye-sight. So far, however, as could be judged from a view actually taken, I am inclined to think it may be about five miles in breadth, and from twelve to fifteen in length. I stripped and bathed, and found it very refreshing, after the overpowering heat of the preceding day, and the torture I experienced from vermin during the night. The water is fresh, to the taste very agreeable, and as there was not at this moment a breath of air, I could, at a considerable depth, distinctly see the bottom covered with pebbles. Although it is ascertained, beyond doubt, that, during our Saviour's ministry, vessels were known to sail upon it, to convey persons to and from the towns on its borders, and used for the purpose of fishing; yet it has been asserted, by some travellers, that neither vessels or boats are ever to be found there; this, however, is opposed by others, who maintain they are actually to be seen about the shores. For my own part, I could not find a single bark, of any description