of these journies, the loss is altogether irreparable to the traveller, and must inevitably be followed by the sacrifice of his own life. A canal or reservoir, to contain water, and equal to a fifth part of the stomach, belongs peculiarly to this animal, with which the food never interferes. Notwithstanding they may in general be considered submissive and inoffensive, yet, since they retain long a sense of injury offered, and watch an opportunity to exercise their revenge, I perceived it was always found necessary to keep the jaw firmly muzzled by a chain or rope, to prevent an attack from their teeth, by which they are led by the keepers. During the period of halting at any place to rest, they are made to kneel down as of old*, by being gently touched on the fore legs; and two of the legs are frequently tied, to prevent them from rising and straying from their keepers. It is in this position they are loaded, unloaded, and also mounted. The weight of their burden is at once ascertained, when a particular groan is uttered; and it sometimes happens that, on finding themselves painfully loaded, they refuse to move a step until the burden is lightened. Although, as I formerly observed, they walk at the rate of two miles an hour, yet, upon extraordinary occasions, they are known to travel to a very great distance in the course of a single day. The female camel continually gives milk, which, it is singular, is not interrupted at the period when with young. No inconsiderable value was attached to this species, in the earliest age, when they were added to the gifts of Jacob.† The manure of camels often supplies the deficiency of fuel in the deserts, as it kindles quickly, and affords heat; and their soft hair, as it drops off periodically, is manufactured into articles of clothing, and applied to purposes connected with the tents of their owners. It may be here added as a singular circumstance, that in the neighbourhood of Pisa, in Italy, there is a race of camels which were brought from the East during the period of the Crusades.

* Genesis xxiv. 11.

+ Id. xxxii. 15.

In resuming the narrative, I would observe, that I afterwards descended into a very deep and narrow valley of considerable length, overlooked by stupendous hills. Until lately, it was deemed almost impossible to pass this tract without encountering bands of robbers, and even at the time I was not altogether without alarm. I halted at a most retired spot called Bethel *, near ruins, where there is a fine spring of water, and partook of it, and of the poultry which had been so kindly given by the commander at Beer, where I was afterwards told it was dangerous to stop, as it was so favourable for the attacks of robbers. It was here, we are told, that Jacob took up his residence, and beheld the vision of God+; and the ruins I suppose to have been those of a monastery which had, in all probability, been founded with the view of marking this sanctified spot. After carefully examining all the firearms, being almost confident of coming in contact with plunderers, I left the valley, ascended the mountains, and thence followed a line of road which led toward a cultivated plain, where I was pleased with the prospect of several ploughs in active exercise. At the first view of these mountains a stranger is led to think it is impossible they could yield any thing, but the sides of them bear ample testimony to the industry of the peasantry in this direction, being formed into numerous small terraces, supported or fenced with stones, similar to steps, where the land was too steep to be come at by the plough. On one of the mountains, overlooking this pleasant scene of cultivation, stands the village of Lebonah.‡ After a fatiguing day's journey, I arrived at the Valley of Sichem or Shechem §, about three miles in length, and two in breadth, which is watered by a rivulet that contributes to its beauty and fertility; a place, perhaps, equally if not more interesting than any in the Holy Land, from the various events which occurred in so narrow a compass as related in the Gospel.

*Gen. xxviii. 19.
Judges xxi. 19.

+ Id. xxviii. 11, 12.
§ Psalm cviii. 7.

The first object which particularly attracts attention at entering this beautiful vale, is a well *, which has all along been held in high veneration, not only from the consideration of its ancient possessor, but the remarkable conversation held here between our Lord and a woman of Samaria, on the "Living Water." This appears to be so accurately pointed out in the inspired volume, that I should think the slightest doubt could not possibly be entertained, for one moment, of its identity. It is at the edge of the road to the right hand, from which a pure stream †, of four feet in breadth, flows, and is situated about a mile from Samaria, or Napolose, as it is now called. This may be considered by the reader as an inconvenient distance for the inhabitants to have gone to draw water, but the ruins which are to be seen almost contiguous to the well render it highly probable, that in the time of Christ the ancient capital might have been of greater extent, and stretched as far as this well. After tasting of this stream, reading, from the fountain of truth, an account given of the remarkable event that occurred on the spot, charmed with the scenery around, and recollecting that here was the ground presented by Jacob to his son Joseph§, I proceeded on my journey. To the left hand, and at a very short distance, I passed a small building in a recess between two mountains, situated on the piece of ground ||, called the Tomb of Joseph, where his bones had been deposited. After an exhausting journey I entered Samaria, which is enveloped in trees, and beautifully situated between the mountains of Gerizim and Ebal**, where the Almighty so specially commanded the benedictions and maledictions to be offered up, as so critically pointed out

Water arising from running springs is, in figurative language, denominated living water, in contradistinction to that of lakes, which may be considered as dead or silent.

§ Gen. xxxiii. 19.

|| John iv. 5.

Joshua xxiv. 32. Acts vii. 15, 16.

** Deut. xi. 29. Id. xxvii. 11-23. Joshua viii. 33, 34.

in the volume of inspiration; and that portion of it, on entering the place, brought to my mind the history, where we are told that Jesus, in passing through this city, was met by many helpless objects, who, by a miracle, were cured of the maladies under which they laboured. *

*Luke xvii. 11. 14.

CHAP. XX.

INSULT OFFERED TO THE AUTHOR BY THE GOVERNOR OF SAMARIA.-WRETCHED ACCOMMODATION. DEPARTURE.

ARRIVAL

AT JENINI. - COMMANDER HERE. APPREHENSIONS OF ATTACK FROM ARABS. ROBBERY OF FRIARS. FURTHER ESCORT FOUND NECESSARY ON JOURNEY.PLAIN

OBSERVATIONS.

OF ESDRAELON. BUONAPARTE'S BATTLE HERE. MOUNT TABOR. -ARRIVAL AT NAZARETH. — MEETING WITH THE GRAND SUPERIOR FROM JERUSALEM. HIS NARRATIVE RESPECTING BRUTAL CONDUCT OF GOVERNOR TO FRIARS PASSING THROUGH SAMARIA-REPRESENTATION BY THE AUTHOR ΤΟ THE GOVERNOR OF JERUSALEM BY LETTER. RETURN OF ESCORT ΤΟ THE

CITY.

NOTWITHSTANDING I was in the Oriental costume, and conceived it would be a sufficient disguise on entering Napolose, yet I was at once recognized as a Christian, and received various marks of insult, being spit upon, and hooted by several of the inhabitants *; and knowing that resistance was vain, I endured this indignity with all possible patience. I rode to the residence of the governor, to deliver the letter which I had been favoured with, from the governor of Jerusalem, under a persuasion that it might ensure attention, but especially a recommendation to some proper lodging, that I might be under his immediate protection; but I was miserably disappointed in these calculations. The letter was given to one of the soldiers on guard, and received with great hauteur; he went to the governor to present it; but I was permitted to walk about

* Matt. xxvi. 67. Luke xviii. 32. Peter iv. 16.

"When a prisoner was brought before Nadir Shah's general, the soldiers were ordered to spit in his face, an indignity of great antiquity in the East-Hanway's Travels.